jan arnett (2)

Have you looked in the Durant Club for help.

What size.

Here is a facebook group dedicated to station wagons. https://www.facebook.com/groups/120063121347567/

Model T

Here is a Cantrell ad which is similar to your depot hack. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1926-Z-AD-CANTRELL-CO-SUBURBAN-BODY-ON-DODGE-CHASSIS-WOOD/352650021835?hash=item521b944bcb:g:5zkAAOSwzt5bZzXZ&frcectupt=true

Did you post in parts wanted. You should include pictures and what car and model it fits. Both my Star and Moon have the style of housing you are looking for.

A lot of people do not know that there is a competing company "Autocheck" that provides the same service cheaper. They don't have a car fox.

!922 Model T which I passed my drivers test in.

I think Matts explanation is excellent about who reports accidents and how things are misreported. Before I retired again I audited car dealers on their CPO (Certified Preowned) performance and no one was perfect and I audited CARFAX as part of the CPO program. Once again no one is perfect. Both are TooLs to help you make a decision. Most cars that were lease turn ins were kept if they meet the CPO criteria because it is tough getting good cars and that is what concerns me about this car. A car with this low mileage is a prime CPO car and most dealers would keep it if they represented this brand. It does have a manufactures warranty which is good and you need to ask the dealers if it is up to date on its software update. Remember CARFAX is a tool and you should evaluate a car the old fashion way be having a mechanic look at it and checking the recalls.

I got mine 20 years ago from Lucas.

Is this a 6Y-40 engine.

Here are the products I use. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect-paint-job

Welcome aboard. You are asking a question which you will get many answers and so far you have done every thing correctly. The only thing that will stop rust completely is new metal and even that isn't fool proof. The second thing you can do is sand blast the metal which you did and now is where you will get differences of opinion. The black pits are as you said rust pits and will ultimately rerust and the question is when. Some people like converters but I do not. Most of the good reviews come from the companies selling them. There are many products which contain phosphoric acid which I prefer. (navel jelly). If it were a smaller item I prefer electrolysis. You are correct in trying to seal the metal and you should use a epoxy primer followed by a 2K primer. I like Southern Polly products.

There was a fire last night on a movie set that destroyed twenty vintage cars. https://www.msn.com/en-us/tv/news/a-total-loss-fire-destroys-set-of-hbo-series-starring-mark-ruffalo-rosie-odonnell/ar-AAB9WKA?li=BBnbfcL

Mike I agree with you that who ever did the radiator did a lousy job and I would be worried about other solder points. I see that you are missing the webbing that goes around the edge of the shell. When install it should keep the hood from bouncing on the radiator. As Ivan mentioned there are different melt points for solder and I have had success using a small butane "not propane" torch and low melting point solder. I have not had success trying to repair a solder joint without taking it loose and starting over. That is a very creative way to hold the end if the hood.

First you need to determine if it has baffles in the tank. If it has baffles it makes it harder to put something hard (pebbles, chain, ect.) in it to shake around. If it does not have baffles in it you can put pebbles, or nuts and bolts, or chains in it along with a solvent (kerosene, toluene) and then mount the tank so it can be rotated (someone used a cement mixer) or hang it from a tree and swing it. You then need to seal it with one of the tank sealers on the market. There are several good threads that go into more detail on the forum which you can find through a search.

I want to know who at DMV gave it a antique car license

Mine is easy and the 2 is because I was hacked on my first try.

Could you take a penetrating oil straw and heat it to allow you to bend it then squirt something behind the handle. Slid a plastic shield over the upholstery to prevent stains.

Run like the devil is chasing you or go and see what goodies are there. I would run.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/729293520543134/

I believe you have come to the proper site for your project but there are a couple of things to remember. This forum has a cars for sale section, cars wanted and then sections for various marques. Remember to make your request as clear and informative as possible. The are also many facebook groups that members post to. What are you looking for so people can help and what part of the country are you looking in.

David I have used both systems and found KwikPoly a very easy product. I usually controlled the viscosity using temperature. I have used the west system and I guess it is like many products you need to learn the ins and outs of the product. I have not used the fast cure but it looks like that is the route I am going. I have an area on my Moon that I need to build up due to some powder post beetles that I am going to try the west system on. Wish me luck.

You can get it at Cosco.

Here is my front turn signal on my Moon, converted cowl lights.