jan arnett (2)
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Posts posted by jan arnett (2)
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On 3/29/2021 at 11:24 AM, F&J said:
You must look at the tire for wording as to if it is a tubeless or tube type tire. That relates only to the tire itself. If it's marked tube type, you must use a tube because the inner layer of rubber can allow air into the cords and cause a growing bubble.
If it is marked tubeless, then the tire is fully sealed. Then put Flex Seal over the rim rivets after cleaning them good.
If the tire is not marked at all about tube vs tubeless, go back to the ad where you bought the tires before trying to go tubeless.
put up a pic of the outer rim so we can see if they are bead lock style. Some here don't know what we are talking about: A beadlock on a stamped steel car rim is just a shallow groove pressed into the rim, and it does 2 things: it keeps the tire bead from unseating if the tire was nearly flat, or went flat before you can stop the car. It also forces the bead to be perfectly centered on the rim hoop.
In rare cases, some defective repro tires don't center themselves perfectly on the rims without beadlocks. Just look at both sides of the tire right at the rim edge to make sure they look centered after airing up.
On the older non-bead lock rims, these were used with tubes in most cases, but VW still had not added beadlocks to the early 60s bugs and some were tubeless tires.
BTW, a beadlock rim is the one that makes a very loud POP when finally getting the bead to seat with lots of pressure. It often takes way more pressure to get them to finally seat, than what the tire pressure calls for.
You are missing the swear job and Band-Aids in your kit.
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On 4/1/2021 at 7:32 PM, trimacar said:
Sure, though not many people get the keys to the gate. Yep, very few Monk keys around here.
How many monkeys are there. Maybe they will put you in charge of the Brandy tasting. I am up for it.
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I am replacing one piston which had a failed skirt with another original piston. Thanks for the help.
Jan
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On 3/28/2021 at 8:40 PM, edinmass said:
Bore and stroke please.
Bore 3", stroke 4.5.
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What is the required gap between a cast iron piston and the cylinder wall. The rings are also cast iron for a low RPM engine, The engine is for a 1923 Moon.
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I requested a quote on my 23 moon
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Does anyone have NCM Insurance?
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Lynn see if there is an automobile trade school in the area. They may be looking for projects and consider joining your local AACA club and the continential club.
Antique Automobile Club of America (AACA) - Regions | Community
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Don't consider changing engines until you know what you have. If you decide you have to change out engines, drive the car with what engine you have and find out if there are other issues. You may find that you like the car as it is. Almost any engine can be rebuilt but some don't need to be. Finding a good mechanic may be the hard part unless you are willing to take it on with help from this group.Nice car.
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I knew them all and had forgotten about the ding-a-lings. I froze my ass off riding with Schroder. I may have some photos. What were your parents name.
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Every thing you see on the front end is wrong and the tires look a wee bit wide.
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not stock
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When you bought a car in the fifties the states would sell your name to fingerhut so the could solicitate your business for seat covers.
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On 2/11/2021 at 1:14 PM, lump said:
One of my favorite things about meetings and tours of the Southern Ohio Chapter of the AACA as a kid in the 1960's was riding in Robert "Skip" Ison's Chevrolet fire truck. I rode in it, climbed all over it, rang the bell, cranked the siren, and generally had a ball. GREAT fun memories in an antique fire truck!
I'm at work now, but I'll add to this story later...
Did you know Dick Schroder who also had a fire truck in the Southern Ohio Chapter. A lot of fun but slow.
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I found bearing for my 23 Moon on ebay.
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Listen to David for excellent information. If you need an electric knife go to goodwill.
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The club will be sending you a trophy. Congratuations you deserve it.
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Any history on the engine, It looks stock with a standard T head.
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See if you can get a copy of Chiltons Catalog and Directory (1929) and it will have in the back a listing of piston by manufacture. My book stops at 1928 but it shows the same piston from 1922 to 1927.
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20 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:
Great project! Are the wheels mounted correctly, never see the lock tings on the inside. Front wheel brakes in 1924 was unique. look forward to more progress photos. Bob
check the valve stems.
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1923 Moon Restoration Progress
in General Discussion
Posted
Looking good