jan arnett (2)

In my area I have seen painters advertise on craigslist for side jobs.

When I used to take apart Ford flatheads we used to have heads stuck on we would get some thin wall tubing where the inside diameter fit over the stud and cut teeth into the end. We the chucked it in the drill and ran it down the stud cutting it loose.

You engine is not locked up which is nicer to hear. I would pull the plugs and dump some transmission fluid in the cyc. and let it set for a week. I am sure it will free up then it is easier to sell.

I learn something new everyday. Great job

You have a much earlier motor from the twenties. You should post in the Dodge section of this forum and they can give you the proper years.

I don't think you have a fuel problem. When the engine dies you say it has fuel in the bowl, a fuel problem would not have a fuel bowl full. Have you checked for spark when it dies. A condenser can be problematic. Have you checked the gaskets between carb and intake and the vac line between intake and vacuum tank. You really got me grasping AT IDEAS..

I think you need to go back to the way the car was built and that is remove the fuel filter, remove the plastic gas tank, remove the fuel pump. The vent should not have fuel coming out of it which sounds like the electric pump pushing fuel after being shut off. It sounds like you are only running a carb bowl of fuel at a time and your carb float may not be set at the right height or the needle valve may be sticking.

I know what you mean about tools. Sometimes I have to ask my self what a tool is for and then when I need it I can't find it. I also have to ask if the tool is for a car or jet engine.

Have you looked in the Durant Club for help.

What size.

Here is a facebook group dedicated to station wagons. https://www.facebook.com/groups/120063121347567/

Model T

Here is a Cantrell ad which is similar to your depot hack. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1926-Z-AD-CANTRELL-CO-SUBURBAN-BODY-ON-DODGE-CHASSIS-WOOD/352650021835?hash=item521b944bcb:g:5zkAAOSwzt5bZzXZ&frcectupt=true

Did you post in parts wanted. You should include pictures and what car and model it fits. Both my Star and Moon have the style of housing you are looking for.

A lot of people do not know that there is a competing company "Autocheck" that provides the same service cheaper. They don't have a car fox.

!922 Model T which I passed my drivers test in.

I think Matts explanation is excellent about who reports accidents and how things are misreported. Before I retired again I audited car dealers on their CPO (Certified Preowned) performance and no one was perfect and I audited CARFAX as part of the CPO program. Once again no one is perfect. Both are TooLs to help you make a decision. Most cars that were lease turn ins were kept if they meet the CPO criteria because it is tough getting good cars and that is what concerns me about this car. A car with this low mileage is a prime CPO car and most dealers would keep it if they rep

I got mine 20 years ago from Lucas.

Is this a 6Y-40 engine.

Here are the products I use. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect-paint-job

Welcome aboard. You are asking a question which you will get many answers and so far you have done every thing correctly. The only thing that will stop rust completely is new metal and even that isn't fool proof. The second thing you can do is sand blast the metal which you did and now is where you will get differences of opinion. The black pits are as you said rust pits and will ultimately rerust and the question is when. Some people like converters but I do not. Most of the good reviews come from the companies selling them. There are many products which contain phosphoric acid which I

There was a fire last night on a movie set that destroyed twenty vintage cars. https://www.msn.com/en-us/tv/news/a-total-loss-fire-destroys-set-of-hbo-series-starring-mark-ruffalo-rosie-odonnell/ar-AAB9WKA?li=BBnbfcL

Mike I agree with you that who ever did the radiator did a lousy job and I would be worried about other solder points. I see that you are missing the webbing that goes around the edge of the shell. When install it should keep the hood from bouncing on the radiator. As Ivan mentioned there are different melt points for solder and I have had success using a small butane "not propane" torch and low melting point solder. I have not had success trying to repair a solder joint without taking it loose and starting over. That is a very creative way to hold the end if the hood.

First you need to determine if it has baffles in the tank. If it has baffles it makes it harder to put something hard (pebbles, chain, ect.) in it to shake around. If it does not have baffles in it you can put pebbles, or nuts and bolts, or chains in it along with a solvent (kerosene, toluene) and then mount the tank so it can be rotated (someone used a cement mixer) or hang it from a tree and swing it. You then need to seal it with one of the tank sealers on the market. There are several good threads that go into more detail on the forum which you can find through a search.

I want to know who at DMV gave it a antique car license