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Bob Zetnick

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Everything posted by Bob Zetnick

  1. If I remember right this was a close match, so I used it. https://www.steelerubber.com/side-window-weatherstrip-70-0064-57 ...I originally was thinking about cutting down old tire tubes , but this L-shape was pretty close.
  2. Here is the original rubber on my '29 DA doors showing the metal strips that hold it in place.
  3. Well, either way, passenger or driver, port or starboard, left or right, I've checked front and rear shackles on all springs and no number....it may have been sandblasted, filled and painted over as I don't know when this body was built; 9 or 90 years ago....it may be under the fender, but I'm not taking all that off to show a guy a VIN......Looks like I may be able to redo a VIN though w/ paperwork. I didn't know this, but Colorado apparently wants to see the car running.....my '29 DA died last week (a total other story) and even if all other stuff (lights, signals, horn, etc.) can run off the battery they want it to run too. Never thought it would be so complicated just to get plates for old cars!
  4. Luckily, I still have Texas plates I'll use for a while!
  5. Thanks to everyone...I'll try these locations this weekend.
  6. I have just moved to Colorado where they require VIN confirmation to get plates...this is a visual confirmation, so a VIN on a title won't work. This is a speedster type of body though listed as a roadster, so it doesn't have doors / jambs for a VIN, there is no plate on the upper right floorboards like my '29 and the engine # doesn't match the VIN on the title. Does anyone know another spot to look for a VIN on a '24 DB? Thanks!
  7. Dave, Here is something I saved for my DA.....doesn't look exactly the same, but if you take off light switch at bottom of steering column rod and then pull up upper horn button / lever assembly there may be a wire clamp that holds lever in place per this DA diagram. Hope this helps.
  8. I thinK some of your aversion to the disk wheels is that yours aren't striped to break up the "massing" of them...just IMHO
  9. Looks like Myers Early Dodge carries it.
  10. Thanks! That is what I was told by the firm that rewired my car....also, I get no spark to plugs, so assume that is the problem.
  11. I have just moved from Fort Worth, TX. to Pueblo, CO and the ignition coil went out just before the move. I have come across this place http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/Chrysler_Ply_Ignition_Coil.html but haven't dealt w/ them before....any thoughts? I was thinking of just getting a 6v coil and mounting on firewall leaving the other original unit just for looks.....any ideas for that? When I got the car in '71 the coil was mounted on firewall, but don't know if positive ground affects the type I buy. Any suggestions appreciated ! Thanks!
  12. If I remember right on mine when I used the key the outside door handle would just spin when you turned the handle while locked....when unlocked the handle acts like a lever to open the door. Hope that helps.
  13. John, looks great! The Luan plywood is a good idea..... I did the chicken wire, but had to add a padded quilt moving blanket to smooth things out a bit....I think your roof lies flatter.
  14. No, it was an "or" he used....this is his original quote: "Fool, for that $90,000 Rambler asking price you could get TWO 1932 Fords or one heck of a nice Brass Era car. Bob" (his name is Bob too)...anyway, I do see a lot of neat brass era cars for less than the price of the Rambler.....unless a real rarity, you can get a nice brass era car for under $90,000...and real cheap if it's a Ford T! 
  15. This looks nice! ...and almost $40,000 cheaper! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1912-Buick-Other-Model-29/372299485148?hash=item56aec74fdc:g:iH8AAOSwWxNYwtIM&vxp=mtr
  16. Thanks you all for all the information. I have no problem downshifting....mainly going from 1st to 2nd as it's hard to have a good feel of how far right to push the gearshift...once I'm in 2nd it's easy to go to 3rd as I'm already on that "side"....maybe I need to practice more, but kinda hard to practice in a big city w/ traffic and plenty of stop signs, lights and speed bumps...or maybe that is good practice Anyway, I can shift my '29 easily...maybe it's just the earlier transmission, so thought a heavier gear "oil" might help out. I just worry that "putting up w/ the noise" that I am eventually going to strip the gears....again, maybe more practice needed.
  17. Those wheels are gorgeous! I like the idea of a zoot suit too!...both classy!
  18. This is the stuff I was thinking of using from Restoration Supply. Looks like some people add grease to 600w, so that it is like molasses. This description says good w/ yellow metals and the "pour" sounds right. Just didn't want to gum things up and wanted to check before ordering. 1500 Gear Oil - This is the thickest and heaviest oil we can pour. It pours like molasses and it will flow. Great for early transmissions and rear axles. Good with yellow metals.
  19. Here are the drawings of the transmission from my manual.
  20. What do you use? I'm still learning about this car.
  21. Thanks! That was the post...maybe I'll try the 1500W
  22. I know I have seen info. on this before, but now can't find it. I've been having a tough time double clutching and I notice some thin oil dripping every so often from my transmission...makes me think that the proper oil isn't in transmission currently. I've looked at my owner's manual and nothing is really said much about transmission oil. On these boards it looks like people recommend anywhere from 600W to 1500W oil. Looks like drain plug is at bottom of transmission. Infill location is at a plate (w/ cork gasket)at top of transmission. Transmission takes 5 pts or whatever it takes to just go over at top of idler gear or through a top bolt hole at side of transmission that is an access point for idler gear. I think that's all I've interpolated from manual and this forum. Are there other recommendations and is 600W oil good enough? Thanks!
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