Bob Zetnick
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Posts posted by Bob Zetnick
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Not 100% sure, but your belt moulding and the hood louvers within a panel looks more like this 1930 Dodge DC8. I may be wrong, but have not seen those details on a '29 model. My '29 DA has 19" wheels and tires if this is actually a '29.
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On 7/14/2019 at 8:43 AM, Jayzee said:
Not sure about Texas, but I have years of experience doing that in Nebraska (very conservative state even requires a title for a Model T!). I’ve driven many classics (1954-1959 Buick’s and Chevys mostly) as daily transportation (work, shopping, etc from rusted out hulk to almost trailer queen). As a child of the 80s to me I got a much stronger respect for the engineer teams building cars that really are more like suvs today then cars. I’ve never had any issues with law enforcement (in fact they intentionally leave you alone, and are less likely to give you tickets (ask me how I know haha). I drove all over the state, blizzards, downpours, everything. The cars were ALL in as built condition (unmodified) and actually got a lot of attention (the ones not rust buckets 😂). As long as you have turn signals or use the hand gestures for signals, a brake light, and headlights you are fine. Being able to hop in your car and go whenever wherever you want is the whole point of having a vintage car. Car washes, part supplier, etc are there for a reason, unless it’s a very, VERY rare or valuable car, take it to work, shopping, etc whenever and enjoy it. Makes the whole driving experience more rewarding to. Hope that helps 👍
Thank you. I have since moved from big city "run an old car over" Fort Worth, Texas to smaller city "old car friendly" Pueblo, Colorado. People are very considerate w/ old cars here and have been driving for fun, doing errands and going to shows. Problem solved!
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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:
With today's fabrics, only RAGGTOP is good for them. Silicon based treatments are not good for them. I don't know how Raggtop would affect an old fabric like that though.
You could always ring Haartz and ask them.
Thanks....looks like you still have to use a water spray on top to clean though and I don't have windows to keep water out of car.
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I've got a tan cloth soft top where it's dusty and has a heavy black mark on the back. I've seen videos on how to clean, but the cars in the vids all have windows and they use lots of water. This is a 1924 Dodge with no windows and the fabric is attached to top bows (not removeable). Anyone have ideas on how to clean? Thanks in advance!
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32 minutes ago, JACK M said:
When you talk about all three functions. Stop, turn, and brake.
The bright filament is both the brake and turn signal. The dimmer filament is tail lights.
As I mentioned before, you make the brake light switch send its juice to the canceling device and it will make sure your brake lights are working, If you have a turn signal in use it will flash that brake light and leave the other side solid on for brakes.
I would use some regular dual filament tail light assemblies. And yes, the base of those bulbs are the ground. Grounds can be confusing.
Some old guy I know used to say that "90% of all electrical problems are groundless".
Thank you! Yes, I will go that route. I'll have to trade out my existing sealed beam signals for a new set of signals I have that will do all 3 functions. I thought the 2 contacts on my sealed beam signals would do the same thing, but apparently not according to Bloo. Anyway, have the weekend to work on this stuff....may have more questions or may be a breeze...I appreciate all your help!
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9 hours ago, Bloo said:
These only have one filament and it is a bright one. You could conceivably combine stop and signal (using the method we were talking about several posts back), but you would still have to have something else for a taillight.
A double filament stop/taillight bulb has 3 connections. The two little contacts are both hot, one is for the bright filament and the other is for the dim one. The base is the third contact. Both filaments ground through the base.
On these Par36 bulbs, the two terminals are hot and ground and there is only one filament. Also, it doesn't matter which terminal you use for ground.
The brakelight switch wont care which terminal is which.
On the flasher, however, you will have to use the correct terminals for each wire.
Got it! Thanks a lot! I'm going to remove the sealed beam lights and use the new set of lights that will work for all 3 functions. I've got enough info to start this weekend.
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5 hours ago, Bloo said:
You have sealed beams for signal lights?!!
I take it then they are separate from the brake lights. That changes everything. There would not need to be any interconnection between those and the brake lights.
For brakes: 6v >> brakelight switch >> large filaments in tail/stop light housings.
For signals: 6v >> flasher >> signal switch >> 4 wires, one each, to 4 signal lights
This assumes a signal switch that has separate wires for front and rear. If you have separate wires, use them, because the sealed beams probably draw a lot of current.
The separate wires for front and rear are not necessary though in a system like this. If you dont have them, just hook the right wire to both right lights, and the left wire to both left lights.
How many watts are those sealed beams? If they are a lot more than a signal light bulb, it is gonna be really hard on the signal switch, and you might need a heavier duty flasher.
This is the spec. for the sealed beams.
U-4414R 5" dia., PAR 36, Signal Lamp Red, 18 watts, 275 candlepower, screw terminal base, 100 hours lifeThere are 2 contacts, so I assumed the 3 functions of turn, stop and tail could work and that's what I really want. These were sold off of an old 6V firetruck...the actual bulbs are expensive and not made anymore; at least in red. I do have brand new lights that are supposed to work for turn, stop and tail that are 6v and I got from Rodtiques. I guess my point is if I rewire and my current lights may not work for all 3 functions and that I may not be able to find bulb replacements in the future, then I may use the new lights on the car and keep the ideas from the earlier posts about wiring. As I said before it's hard to wrap my head around this as I'm not an electrician, so I pretty much understand the earlier posts and would hate to switch gears in thinking. I appreciate your responses. BTW, on the brake light switch that I posted above do you know which side is the hot / power side? Does it have to do w/ the height of those contacts? -
1 hour ago, JACK M said:
As for the brake light switch, Your diagram shows the lead to the sig switch is on the same side as the power supply. Hence the turn signal device is not switched, but on all of the time.
Two posts on the BL switch, one in and one out. So you are turning on the power with the clum switch (in) the other would be out and would supply the signal device. This is usually called a canceling device.
You are trying to power the stop lights directly, They need to be supplied their power thru the canceling device.
The canceling device will tell which brake light needs to become a turn signal. It would appear that you have that right but are over riding at the BL switch.
My brake light switch is like this.....not sure if I have the same height in contacts though. So, how do you tell which is the power side vs. switch side...is it heights of contacts? I should get my master cylinder w/ brake light switch today, then I can look to see exactly what I've got as a switch.
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14 hours ago, Bloo said:
Yeah, if you look inside, the bright one is bigger!
If both come on, either something is wired incorrectly, or there is a bad ground. Usually it means a bad ground.
I do have a larger filament on the original tail / stoplight and one filament is larger. As my bulb has straight pins, I'll just test which contact makes the large filament light up. This original light just has a soft glow, so may be a ground issue. My turn signals are sealed beam bulbs, so I guess I just test contacts there too.
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14 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:
Usually dual filament bulbs are something like 5/20 W. The bigger filament is usually the brighter one.
Do yours have offset pins near the base? That way, they bulb goes in the right way. The bulbs are called BAY15D or BA15D (15 = diameter in mm, D= dual filament). BAY = offset pins, BA = opposite pins.
My turn signals have sealed beam bulbs like photo, my original stop / tailight has straight pins, but I do see a larger filament....I guess I just test what contact / wire goes to larger filament. Any ideas on the sealed beam?...maybe just test also....
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3 hours ago, Bloo said:
There are two common ways of handling the turn signal/stoplight issue.
The first is to have a separate filament (or whole bulb) for the rear turn signals. In the modern era most Asian cars do this. 39 Buick is another example.
In this scenario, the turn signals are a completely separate circuit, and not tied into anything. The switch is just a simple switch.
The second method shares the stoplight filament with the turn signals. This is how most American cars are wired from the time factory turn signals became common (early 50s) through the 80s or 90s at least. Usually a dual filament bulb is used. There is a dim filament and a bright one. The dim one is for taillights ONLY. The bright one is shared between the turn signals and the brakelights.
It looks like you are using the second method.
To share the filaments, the turn signal switch has to be much more sophisticated. Here's how it works:
6V is fed through the flasher (in through one pin and out through another) to the turn signal switch. In the switch, one front signal bulb gets connected when you turn a signal on.
6V is fed through the brake light switch to the turn signal switch, from there the switch connects it to the bright filament of both rear bulbs when no signals are on. Brake lights work as normal.
When you turn on a signal, the turn signal switch disconnects ONE rear bulb from the brakelight switch, and connects it to the flasher.
The third pin on the flasher is for an indicator inside the car. If there is only one indicator bulb, it connects to the third flasher pin.
If there are 2 indicator bulbs inside the car, one for right and one for left, they connect to the front signals, and the third flasher pin is not used.
Yes, there need to be completely separate wires all the way from the turn signal switch to each bright filament in the rear bulbs. Without this, there would be no way for the turn signal switch to disconnect ONLY ONE bright filament from the brakelights and connect it to the flasher when you turn a signal on.
As JACK M mentioned, pay attention to the ground path from ANY light back through the body or frame or whatever. If the grounds are bad, the problems will be bizarre.
Thank you! Like I told Jack I really don't know about auto wiring ,so will have to print this out and wrap my head around it w/ the car. all my rear lights have 2-filament bulbs...one question though is how do you know a dim filament from a bright one? I just thought each filament had its own brightness, but sometimes both filaments came on and that's what made them bright....hmmmm
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2 hours ago, JACK M said:
Any time Bob, Basic wiring comes pretty easy to me.
And I just recently hooked one of those aftermarket signal switches.
I have found on these old cars that grounds and parts that the grounds pass through (fenders and such) can be a bugger to figure out for some.
Jack, I've been looking at your notes for a couple of hours...I think that you and Spinneyhill are saying the same thing in that the stop light ties into the turn signal and not the tail light.....I went by a couple online sites and direction from the turn signal switch mfgr. I had no idea that the side of the brake switch mattered (I'll have to test as master cylinder is out being resleeved / rebuilt)...how can you tell the power side from the switch side? I will say on the original (center) light I've grounded it w/ a jump wire and no difference, but maybe switching some of these wires may give different results. I may have to take you up on more questions too as dome light and brights on headlights doesn't work either.....dome light is especially problemic as I now have new upholstery installed (I have a feeling the guy who put in upholstery disconnected screwed in ground when installing headliner)
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21 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:
Part of it might be that I see only one circuit for stop and tail lights. Should there be separate wires? i.e. there is a dual filament bulb so it needs two feeds? I think you would then cut one of them intermittently for the blinkers? We are required, in general, to have a separate blinker bulb and not flash the brake light.
Thanks...yeah, I thought the same thing, but a couple of online sites as well as the turn signal switch directions told me to wire that way, but I think you and Jack may have figured out that is part of the problem.
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5 minutes ago, JACK M said:
I don't want to confuse you, just do the two things that I highlighted in orange.
Thanks Jack. Let me wrap my head around your comments as I'm not an electrical guy by any means.... I might have some more questions for you while looking at the diagram.
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I have a 1929 Dodge that got rewired last year just before a move to Colorado. I am trying to get my car ready for inspection, so I can get new plates. I am having several wiring issues, but only a couple have to do with me getting an inspection. I got some 2-wire turn signals for the rear that are supposed to have stop, tail and turn capability. I wanted these to be used in conjunction w/ the original back light for stop and tail capability. I am having 2 problems. First, the original rear light just has a light glow, hardly visible and when I turn on the headlights even that glow in the original rear light goes out (a short?) Secondly, the new turn signals seem to work for brake and turn signals, but not for tail lights. I have been reading a lot of suggestions on hot rod and trailer sites, some of which say I need a 3-wire to 2-wire converter. Anyway, I did a wiring diagram below that interpolates between the original wiring diagram, the 'Signal-Stat' 900 series turn signal wiring diagram and a few online wiring diagrams. I don't know if this diagram is correct or if any wiring guys here can help me. BTW, this is a 6 volt system. Thanks
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So sorry to hear...glad you got the damage repaired. When I got my DA there was a good sized dent in my hood from a thrown fan blade. Back in the 70s my waterpump had gone bad, so my dad machined a replacement w/ a 6 blade fan attached.....not original, but keeps things cool.
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5 hours ago, stakeside said:
My DA6 sedan's manifold heat control is missing some parts and is "open". I was too afraid to break the fragile cast iron to deal with it. I left it as is and have had no problems with it whether cold weather or warm weather.
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1 minute ago, Tinindian said:
Amen to that thought. Once adjusted only wear changes things. I am so happy that my Pontiac has mechanically operated brakes.
I do wish you well on repairs to your hydraulic system.
Thanks....I had someone pull out in front of me a little over a year ago and the '24's brakes worked well.....made a lot of skidding noice, but stopped quickly!
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23 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:
Fluid coming out at the piston rod indicates it has got past both cups into the boot.
If the chamber between primary and secondary cups was full of fluid as well as the space under the filler, fluid must come out somewhere when you push the pedal down. Look really carefully at port #6 and at port #9 and make sure you can get the cup past them without damaging the edge. Make sure there is no roughness on those port openings.
Also, don't fill it to the brim: there must be a bit of space to push fluid into the filler from between the cups.
The cylinder must be smooth with no pits or dents. It might have nice cross-hatched hone marks.
What is the edge of the primary cup like? It must be sharp with no dents or other damage. If in doubt, replace that cup - just the cup - they are inexpensive.
What should the secondary cup expander #4 look like? I can't see it in the photo. If that cup doesn't seal, it will leak as you describe.
Thank you for the info. Spinneyhill! I'm afraid I'm not much of a mechanic! I basically clean / restore parts and put them back together (probably part of this problem) ...anyway, I have no idea what ports #6 and #9 are nor what secondary cup expander #4 is. I do appreciate your responses though.
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So, got the master cylinder out today.....rubber all seems in good shape. Got a photo of the piston, the parts as they came out of the cylinder and tried to get a shot of the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls seem clean, not polished like a babbitt bearing, but clean...so not sure what to do here. Again the massive leak occured between rubber boot and piston rod behind frame member. Do you think I need resleeved / cored? Ideas as to what went wrong? I think I like the mechanical brakes on my '24 better!
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I was checking my brake light why it was so dim and then not working when I found that my master cylinder quickly drained my brake fluid from the canister. I bought a kit 11 years ago, installed the rebuilt master cylinder and had it checked 8 years ago and finally filled it 18 months ago. I have less than 100 miles on the car since driving it again last year. I got under the car and it had all leaked out where the piston rod enters the boot. I have looked at this post from 2011, but it deals mostly with the piston / spring chamber at the front of the master cylinder, not where my leak is. I have not taken the master cylinder off yet to look at the leak more closely. I have looked at drawings and photos, but can't see if there is some kind of seal / flange that seals the piston rod w/ the boot....or maybe I installed improperly....so I have a few questions:
1) Anyone have photos / ideas about the connection between brake piston rod and rubber boot?
2) If my boot looks okay can I reuse the kit I have installed though 11 years old?
3) Anyone know where I can get a kit if I have to buy new? I haven't tried NAPA yet (I don't think they go back to '29), but the sources I had several years ago have dried up.
4) Lastly, I think White Post rebuilds these, but not cheap...I may try Romar ....anyone have other sources? I rebuilt this and had it checked and it still failed, so maybe time for a professional! I'm just glad I wasn't driving when it failed!
Thanks in advance for any thoughts / ideas on this.
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4 hours ago, ILIKECARS53 said:
Hi Dave, The pics will help me also, will be putting a DA coupe back together in the near future. Going to be my retirement project. But i have a question, where did you purchase the oil filter?
Thanks in advance, Jim
Jim, I put a Purolator on my DA that looks pretty much like the original "grapefruit juice can" style.....I got it on eBay w/ 2 replaceable filter inserts. You might talk to Tom or Cindy Myers at Myers Early Dodge as they have a filter and inserts that work on Victory 6, Standard 6 and some Senior 6s.....not sure why it wouldn't work or could be adapted for a DA. Attached is a photo of what a guy in Florida did for his DA. He cut a canister that looks original hiding the seam w/ the bracket. He has a replaceable, modern unit inside.....he had posted how he had done this about a decade ago, but the story doesn't show up on this board anymore. Hope this info helps. BTW, you might start another thread for your oil filter as you'd get more help that way than under my throttle linkage thread. Good luck.
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My linkage works like a champ now! Thanks again David!
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Thanks David! The last photo is exactly what I needed. I'll compare mine to your photo today.
DA fuel problem
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Was the carb rebuilt after sitting for 15 years? Fuel filter or something blocked by crud? I have used starting fluid on mine before after taking air cleaner off....keep fire extinguisher handy. If car starts then ignition would seem okay, though you did say you have spark. If you've had gas in the car after only a few weeks it shouldn't be a problem....I just think somethings gotten gummed up in the carb as gas seems to be getting to the "throat".