Bob Zetnick

Was the carb rebuilt after sitting for 15 years? Fuel filter or something blocked by crud? I have used starting fluid on mine before after taking air cleaner off....keep fire extinguisher handy. If car starts then ignition would seem okay, though you did say you have spark. If you've had gas in the car after only a few weeks it shouldn't be a problem....I just think somethings gotten gummed up in the carb as gas seems to be getting to the "throat".

Not 100% sure, but your belt moulding and the hood louvers within a panel looks more like this 1930 Dodge DC8. I may be wrong, but have not seen those details on a '29 model. My '29 DA has 19" wheels and tires if this is actually a '29.

Thank you. I have since moved from big city "run an old car over" Fort Worth, Texas to smaller city "old car friendly" Pueblo, Colorado. People are very considerate w/ old cars here and have been driving for fun, doing errands and going to shows. Problem solved!

Thanks....looks like you still have to use a water spray on top to clean though and I don't have windows to keep water out of car.

I've got a tan cloth soft top where it's dusty and has a heavy black mark on the back. I've seen videos on how to clean, but the cars in the vids all have windows and they use lots of water. This is a 1924 Dodge with no windows and the fabric is attached to top bows (not removeable). Anyone have ideas on how to clean? Thanks in advance!

Thank you! Yes, I will go that route. I'll have to trade out my existing sealed beam signals for a new set of signals I have that will do all 3 functions. I thought the 2 contacts on my sealed beam signals would do the same thing, but apparently not according to Bloo. Anyway, have the weekend to work on this stuff....may have more questions or may be a breeze...I appreciate all your help!

Got it! Thanks a lot! I'm going to remove the sealed beam lights and use the new set of lights that will work for all 3 functions. I've got enough info to start this weekend.

This is the spec. for the sealed beams. U-4414R 5" dia., PAR 36, Signal Lamp Red, 18 watts, 275 candlepower, screw terminal base, 100 hours life There are 2 contacts, so I assumed the 3 functions of turn, stop and tail could work and that's what I really want. These were sold off of an old 6V firetruck...the actual bulbs are expensive and not made anymore; at least in red. I do have brand new lights that are supposed to work for turn, stop and tail that are 6v and I got from Rodtiques. I guess my point is if I rewire and my current lights may not work for all 3 functions and that I may not be able to find bulb replacements in the future, then I may use the new lights on the car and keep the ideas from the earlier posts about wiring. As I said before it's hard to wrap my head around this as I'm not an electrician, so I pretty much understand the earlier posts and would hate to switch gears in thinking. I appreciate your responses. BTW, on the brake light switch that I posted above do you know which side is the hot / power side? Does it have to do w/ the height of those contacts?

My brake light switch is like this.....not sure if I have the same height in contacts though. So, how do you tell which is the power side vs. switch side...is it heights of contacts? I should get my master cylinder w/ brake light switch today, then I can look to see exactly what I've got as a switch.

I do have a larger filament on the original tail / stoplight and one filament is larger. As my bulb has straight pins, I'll just test which contact makes the large filament light up. This original light just has a soft glow, so may be a ground issue. My turn signals are sealed beam bulbs, so I guess I just test contacts there too.

My turn signals have sealed beam bulbs like photo, my original stop / tailight has straight pins, but I do see a larger filament....I guess I just test what contact / wire goes to larger filament. Any ideas on the sealed beam?...maybe just test also....

Thank you! Like I told Jack I really don't know about auto wiring ,so will have to print this out and wrap my head around it w/ the car. all my rear lights have 2-filament bulbs...one question though is how do you know a dim filament from a bright one? I just thought each filament had its own brightness, but sometimes both filaments came on and that's what made them bright....hmmmm

Jack, I've been looking at your notes for a couple of hours...I think that you and Spinneyhill are saying the same thing in that the stop light ties into the turn signal and not the tail light.....I went by a couple online sites and direction from the turn signal switch mfgr. I had no idea that the side of the brake switch mattered (I'll have to test as master cylinder is out being resleeved / rebuilt)...how can you tell the power side from the switch side? I will say on the original (center) light I've grounded it w/ a jump wire and no difference, but maybe switching some of these wires may give different results. I may have to take you up on more questions too as dome light and brights on headlights doesn't work either.....dome light is especially problemic as I now have new upholstery installed (I have a feeling the guy who put in upholstery disconnected screwed in ground when installing headliner)

Thanks...yeah, I thought the same thing, but a couple of online sites as well as the turn signal switch directions told me to wire that way, but I think you and Jack may have figured out that is part of the problem.

Thanks Jack. Let me wrap my head around your comments as I'm not an electrical guy by any means.... I might have some more questions for you while looking at the diagram.

I have a 1929 Dodge that got rewired last year just before a move to Colorado. I am trying to get my car ready for inspection, so I can get new plates. I am having several wiring issues, but only a couple have to do with me getting an inspection. I got some 2-wire turn signals for the rear that are supposed to have stop, tail and turn capability. I wanted these to be used in conjunction w/ the original back light for stop and tail capability. I am having 2 problems. First, the original rear light just has a light glow, hardly visible and when I turn on the headlights even that glow in the original rear light goes out (a short?) Secondly, the new turn signals seem to work for brake and turn signals, but not for tail lights. I have been reading a lot of suggestions on hot rod and trailer sites, some of which say I need a 3-wire to 2-wire converter. Anyway, I did a wiring diagram below that interpolates between the original wiring diagram, the 'Signal-Stat' 900 series turn signal wiring diagram and a few online wiring diagrams. I don't know if this diagram is correct or if any wiring guys here can help me. BTW, this is a 6 volt system. Thanks

So sorry to hear...glad you got the damage repaired. When I got my DA there was a good sized dent in my hood from a thrown fan blade. Back in the 70s my waterpump had gone bad, so my dad machined a replacement w/ a 6 blade fan attached.....not original, but keeps things cool.

My DA6 sedan's manifold heat control is missing some parts and is "open". I was too afraid to break the fragile cast iron to deal with it. I left it as is and have had no problems with it whether cold weather or warm weather.

Thanks....I had someone pull out in front of me a little over a year ago and the '24's brakes worked well.....made a lot of skidding noice, but stopped quickly!

Thank you for the info. Spinneyhill! I'm afraid I'm not much of a mechanic! I basically clean / restore parts and put them back together (probably part of this problem) ...anyway, I have no idea what ports #6 and #9 are nor what secondary cup expander #4 is. I do appreciate your responses though.

So, got the master cylinder out today.....rubber all seems in good shape. Got a photo of the piston, the parts as they came out of the cylinder and tried to get a shot of the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls seem clean, not polished like a babbitt bearing, but clean...so not sure what to do here. Again the massive leak occured between rubber boot and piston rod behind frame member. Do you think I need resleeved / cored? Ideas as to what went wrong? I think I like the mechanical brakes on my '24 better!

I was checking my brake light why it was so dim and then not working when I found that my master cylinder quickly drained my brake fluid from the canister. I bought a kit 11 years ago, installed the rebuilt master cylinder and had it checked 8 years ago and finally filled it 18 months ago. I have less than 100 miles on the car since driving it again last year. I got under the car and it had all leaked out where the piston rod enters the boot. I have looked at this post from 2011, but it deals mostly with the piston / spring chamber at the front of the master cylinder, not where my leak is. I have not taken the master cylinder off yet to look at the leak more closely. I have looked at drawings and photos, but can't see if there is some kind of seal / flange that seals the piston rod w/ the boot....or maybe I installed improperly....so I have a few questions: 1) Anyone have photos / ideas about the connection between brake piston rod and rubber boot? 2) If my boot looks okay can I reuse the kit I have installed though 11 years old? 3) Anyone know where I can get a kit if I have to buy new? I haven't tried NAPA yet (I don't think they go back to '29), but the sources I had several years ago have dried up. 4) Lastly, I think White Post rebuilds these, but not cheap...I may try Romar ....anyone have other sources? I rebuilt this and had it checked and it still failed, so maybe time for a professional! I'm just glad I wasn't driving when it failed! Thanks in advance for any thoughts / ideas on this.

Jim, I put a Purolator on my DA that looks pretty much like the original "grapefruit juice can" style.....I got it on eBay w/ 2 replaceable filter inserts. You might talk to Tom or Cindy Myers at Myers Early Dodge as they have a filter and inserts that work on Victory 6, Standard 6 and some Senior 6s.....not sure why it wouldn't work or could be adapted for a DA. Attached is a photo of what a guy in Florida did for his DA. He cut a canister that looks original hiding the seam w/ the bracket. He has a replaceable, modern unit inside.....he had posted how he had done this about a decade ago, but the story doesn't show up on this board anymore. Hope this info helps. BTW, you might start another thread for your oil filter as you'd get more help that way than under my throttle linkage thread. Good luck.

My linkage works like a champ now! Thanks again David!

Thanks David! The last photo is exactly what I needed. I'll compare mine to your photo today.