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Bob Zetnick

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Everything posted by Bob Zetnick

  1. Thank you for the info. Spinneyhill! I'm afraid I'm not much of a mechanic! I basically clean / restore parts and put them back together (probably part of this problem) ...anyway, I have no idea what ports #6 and #9 are nor what secondary cup expander #4 is. I do appreciate your responses though.
  2. So, got the master cylinder out today.....rubber all seems in good shape. Got a photo of the piston, the parts as they came out of the cylinder and tried to get a shot of the cylinder walls. The cylinder walls seem clean, not polished like a babbitt bearing, but clean...so not sure what to do here. Again the massive leak occured between rubber boot and piston rod behind frame member. Do you think I need resleeved / cored? Ideas as to what went wrong? I think I like the mechanical brakes on my '24 better!
  3. I was checking my brake light why it was so dim and then not working when I found that my master cylinder quickly drained my brake fluid from the canister. I bought a kit 11 years ago, installed the rebuilt master cylinder and had it checked 8 years ago and finally filled it 18 months ago. I have less than 100 miles on the car since driving it again last year. I got under the car and it had all leaked out where the piston rod enters the boot. I have looked at this post from 2011, but it deals mostly with the piston / spring chamber at the front of the master cylinder, not where my leak is. I have not taken the master cylinder off yet to look at the leak more closely. I have looked at drawings and photos, but can't see if there is some kind of seal / flange that seals the piston rod w/ the boot....or maybe I installed improperly....so I have a few questions: 1) Anyone have photos / ideas about the connection between brake piston rod and rubber boot? 2) If my boot looks okay can I reuse the kit I have installed though 11 years old? 3) Anyone know where I can get a kit if I have to buy new? I haven't tried NAPA yet (I don't think they go back to '29), but the sources I had several years ago have dried up. 4) Lastly, I think White Post rebuilds these, but not cheap...I may try Romar ....anyone have other sources? I rebuilt this and had it checked and it still failed, so maybe time for a professional! I'm just glad I wasn't driving when it failed! Thanks in advance for any thoughts / ideas on this.
  4. Jim, I put a Purolator on my DA that looks pretty much like the original "grapefruit juice can" style.....I got it on eBay w/ 2 replaceable filter inserts. You might talk to Tom or Cindy Myers at Myers Early Dodge as they have a filter and inserts that work on Victory 6, Standard 6 and some Senior 6s.....not sure why it wouldn't work or could be adapted for a DA. Attached is a photo of what a guy in Florida did for his DA. He cut a canister that looks original hiding the seam w/ the bracket. He has a replaceable, modern unit inside.....he had posted how he had done this about a decade ago, but the story doesn't show up on this board anymore. Hope this info helps. BTW, you might start another thread for your oil filter as you'd get more help that way than under my throttle linkage thread. Good luck.
  5. My linkage works like a champ now! Thanks again David!
  6. Thanks David! The last photo is exactly what I needed. I'll compare mine to your photo today.
  7. I thought I had a photo of this on my 1929 Dodge Pinterest board. Anyway, I wonder if someone has a photo of their '29 Dodge DA throttle linkage where it attaches to the water jacket. I thought I had mine correct, but it binds up and now doesn't work at all. I think I have all the correct pieces, but at that connection I may have them together incorrectly. Thanks.
  8. My '24 has a Detroit Lubricator carb.....this one is on eBay right now https://www.ebay.com/itm/DETROIT-LUBRICATOR-STEWART-CARBURETOR-J2B540319-1910S-1920S-DODGE-BROTHERS/123398425065?hash=item1cbb1e89e9:g:8lwAAOSwVaZa7POn:rk:65:pf:0 Don't know if there were differences between years...maybe someone else can help w/ that info., but this is what it will look like.
  9. I may be looking at photos wrong, but to me both keiser’s and dodgenz’s photos look like exhaust pipe connects just under manifold heat control at front of manifold.....this is the way my ‘29 DA is set up.....maybe I’m not seeing something?
  10. Here are some photos of exterior assembly and some parts that I used for mine. I was told to soak in oil which I did, but my manifold was in better shape than yours. I don't know that these photos help as I don't have any spare parts. Every so often a manifold comes up on eBay ...the manifold in the 1st photo was for sale this last April...I wonder if calling Myers Early Dodge might help as I got bumpers and a clum switch from their parts cars.
  11. My '29 DA has a grease cup in engine compartment w/ flex tube to throw-out bearing...I've just never heard a "squeal" from throw-out bearing before.
  12. If it's anything like my '29 DA you have to loosen the Clum light switch at bottom ( or anything else attached to bottom of steering column)...then you can pull rod in steering column up from steering wheel. A split ring holds horn button in place. Again, not sure a Standard Six will be the same.
  13. Thanks so much! I totally forgot about that post! My old age I guess!!!
  14. I want to be prepared for my first Colorado winter (after living in Texas). I think my cars, except for starting them every so often, will be in the garage for 4 or 5 months this winter. With gas in the tanks I was thinking about using Stabil, but wasn't sure about using it w/ these old engines.
  15. I put new cables onto the old dash pulls on my '29 DA. I threaded the cable up into the hole at the bottom of the dash pull, up the groove on the opposite side of the pull and installed them. This seemed to be the way the old cables were mounted. The starter pull after a few uses pulled out of the dash and the choke pull is binding. I am going to use a graphite suspended in alcohol as a cable lubricant for the binding issue, but it there another way to attach the pull to the cable....like should it be soldered along that groove?...or another method? Again, I just copied what was there. Thanks!
  16. Mike, I've had that since the mid-70s...can't remember.
  17. I got my trim from L&L...I didn't have any of the original stuff, so don't know that a different, flat trim was used on the ends...I just used the same stuff all around like your photos.
  18. Hey, 1920s closed cars were supposed to mimic your living room or as an 4-wheeled extension of your home....maybe just not a hotel lobby.....that said, it depends how many guests you cram inside your car!
  19. Not that everything needs to be kept original, but the scale of that pattern looks more like a pattern from a 1920s mediterranean style hotel lobby. Here are some photos of original carpet details...a couple from my '29...anyway, just real simple w/ the black edging....I think the front was originally all rubber matting, but I showed the oak boards and just did carpet mats to match the rear....again, I don't mean to thwart any creativity here; just another possible option.
  20. That floor looks to be in great shape!...and like you said where are you going to get solid wood in that width?...I'd just clean up, maybe repaint and reuse....I wish my floors had been that nice! The heater looks to be something that conected around the exhaust pipe rather than radiator's hot water for warmth. Probably an accessory, not sure that it came from factory...anyway, exhaust pipes rusted through and carbon monoxide entered car and you can imagine why they went out of style...that said, it's very cool and hard to find!
  21. Not sure what it costs to ship to OZ, but I got my top material from http://www.lebaronbonney.com/# I'm sure there are other places too....maybe Mac's or Snyder's that supply to Model A restorers.
  22. The original floor in my '29 DA 6 was pine boards w/corrugated fasteners connecting them...front rubber mat was gone, but rear carpet still there....boards were in bad shape as roof had leaked, so replaced w/ rift cut oak boards, glued up together.
  23. My '29 was different in design and went all the way up firewall, but the padding material looked the same, except covered on the face w/ a black leatherette of sorts. I bought a new pad off of eBay that fit perfectly....the insulation was different, but the black covering looked pretty much the same....anyway, here is an eBay link to a '29 DA, but maybe he or his source can make something up for your '32? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1929-Dodge-DA-Firewall-Pad/262507381698?hash=item3d1ea8c3c2%3Ag%3AbCAAAOSwmtJXbCk3&_sacat=6000&_nkw=1929+dodge+pad&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0|0
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