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Bob Zetnick

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Everything posted by Bob Zetnick

  1. Thanks for all your replies! I think I may be removing the oil pan and repairing the float this winter.
  2. Even when I had the float working the oil guage did not work. Also, as I had said, last month everything was fine and this month, in the garage, the float wasn't working....I have a couple of oil drips, but not all 5 quarts on the floor. I think it's a leaky float, but until these posts I wasn't sure a float could become "oil-logged". If there's a way to check the oil pan oil level besides the float or guage I can check before removing pan.
  3. The car has an oil pump and an oil guage, but guage doesn't work.
  4. My oil indicator float seems to not be working as it has sunk almost all the way into the block. I took the car out last month and everything was fine; oil level and float. Went out this last weekend and the float, even when brought up by hand, just sinks back down to the block. There is a couple of oil drips on the floor, but not a 5 quart puddle. So my questions are can an oil float leak like a vacuum tank float (I haven't seen the pan side of float)? ....Is there another way of checking oil level like through the oil filler (not sure if something would be in the way and there would be no indication of how many quarts were in the pan)?...Has anyone installed a dipstick in lieu of the float or are the floats considered pretty reliable? I've only had this car 3 years, so a novice at this one. Thanks!
  5. Glad your surgery went well and hope your recovery is quick. At least you have some projects on your car so you don't get bored. I sure do enjoy reading your posts and watching your car come together.
  6. Was the carb rebuilt after sitting for 15 years? Fuel filter or something blocked by crud? I have used starting fluid on mine before after taking air cleaner off....keep fire extinguisher handy. If car starts then ignition would seem okay, though you did say you have spark. If you've had gas in the car after only a few weeks it shouldn't be a problem....I just think somethings gotten gummed up in the carb as gas seems to be getting to the "throat".
  7. Not 100% sure, but your belt moulding and the hood louvers within a panel looks more like this 1930 Dodge DC8. I may be wrong, but have not seen those details on a '29 model. My '29 DA has 19" wheels and tires if this is actually a '29.
  8. Thank you. I have since moved from big city "run an old car over" Fort Worth, Texas to smaller city "old car friendly" Pueblo, Colorado. People are very considerate w/ old cars here and have been driving for fun, doing errands and going to shows. Problem solved!
  9. Thanks....looks like you still have to use a water spray on top to clean though and I don't have windows to keep water out of car.
  10. I've got a tan cloth soft top where it's dusty and has a heavy black mark on the back. I've seen videos on how to clean, but the cars in the vids all have windows and they use lots of water. This is a 1924 Dodge with no windows and the fabric is attached to top bows (not removeable). Anyone have ideas on how to clean? Thanks in advance!
  11. Thank you! Yes, I will go that route. I'll have to trade out my existing sealed beam signals for a new set of signals I have that will do all 3 functions. I thought the 2 contacts on my sealed beam signals would do the same thing, but apparently not according to Bloo. Anyway, have the weekend to work on this stuff....may have more questions or may be a breeze...I appreciate all your help!
  12. Got it! Thanks a lot! I'm going to remove the sealed beam lights and use the new set of lights that will work for all 3 functions. I've got enough info to start this weekend.
  13. This is the spec. for the sealed beams. U-4414R 5" dia., PAR 36, Signal Lamp Red, 18 watts, 275 candlepower, screw terminal base, 100 hours life There are 2 contacts, so I assumed the 3 functions of turn, stop and tail could work and that's what I really want. These were sold off of an old 6V firetruck...the actual bulbs are expensive and not made anymore; at least in red. I do have brand new lights that are supposed to work for turn, stop and tail that are 6v and I got from Rodtiques. I guess my point is if I rewire and my current lights may not work for all 3 functions and that I may not be able to find bulb replacements in the future, then I may use the new lights on the car and keep the ideas from the earlier posts about wiring. As I said before it's hard to wrap my head around this as I'm not an electrician, so I pretty much understand the earlier posts and would hate to switch gears in thinking. I appreciate your responses. BTW, on the brake light switch that I posted above do you know which side is the hot / power side? Does it have to do w/ the height of those contacts?
  14. My brake light switch is like this.....not sure if I have the same height in contacts though. So, how do you tell which is the power side vs. switch side...is it heights of contacts? I should get my master cylinder w/ brake light switch today, then I can look to see exactly what I've got as a switch.
  15. I do have a larger filament on the original tail / stoplight and one filament is larger. As my bulb has straight pins, I'll just test which contact makes the large filament light up. This original light just has a soft glow, so may be a ground issue. My turn signals are sealed beam bulbs, so I guess I just test contacts there too.
  16. My turn signals have sealed beam bulbs like photo, my original stop / tailight has straight pins, but I do see a larger filament....I guess I just test what contact / wire goes to larger filament. Any ideas on the sealed beam?...maybe just test also....
  17. Thank you! Like I told Jack I really don't know about auto wiring ,so will have to print this out and wrap my head around it w/ the car. all my rear lights have 2-filament bulbs...one question though is how do you know a dim filament from a bright one? I just thought each filament had its own brightness, but sometimes both filaments came on and that's what made them bright....hmmmm
  18. Jack, I've been looking at your notes for a couple of hours...I think that you and Spinneyhill are saying the same thing in that the stop light ties into the turn signal and not the tail light.....I went by a couple online sites and direction from the turn signal switch mfgr. I had no idea that the side of the brake switch mattered (I'll have to test as master cylinder is out being resleeved / rebuilt)...how can you tell the power side from the switch side? I will say on the original (center) light I've grounded it w/ a jump wire and no difference, but maybe switching some of these wires may give different results. I may have to take you up on more questions too as dome light and brights on headlights doesn't work either.....dome light is especially problemic as I now have new upholstery installed (I have a feeling the guy who put in upholstery disconnected screwed in ground when installing headliner)
  19. Thanks...yeah, I thought the same thing, but a couple of online sites as well as the turn signal switch directions told me to wire that way, but I think you and Jack may have figured out that is part of the problem.
  20. Thanks Jack. Let me wrap my head around your comments as I'm not an electrical guy by any means.... I might have some more questions for you while looking at the diagram.
  21. I have a 1929 Dodge that got rewired last year just before a move to Colorado. I am trying to get my car ready for inspection, so I can get new plates. I am having several wiring issues, but only a couple have to do with me getting an inspection. I got some 2-wire turn signals for the rear that are supposed to have stop, tail and turn capability. I wanted these to be used in conjunction w/ the original back light for stop and tail capability. I am having 2 problems. First, the original rear light just has a light glow, hardly visible and when I turn on the headlights even that glow in the original rear light goes out (a short?) Secondly, the new turn signals seem to work for brake and turn signals, but not for tail lights. I have been reading a lot of suggestions on hot rod and trailer sites, some of which say I need a 3-wire to 2-wire converter. Anyway, I did a wiring diagram below that interpolates between the original wiring diagram, the 'Signal-Stat' 900 series turn signal wiring diagram and a few online wiring diagrams. I don't know if this diagram is correct or if any wiring guys here can help me. BTW, this is a 6 volt system. Thanks
  22. So sorry to hear...glad you got the damage repaired. When I got my DA there was a good sized dent in my hood from a thrown fan blade. Back in the 70s my waterpump had gone bad, so my dad machined a replacement w/ a 6 blade fan attached.....not original, but keeps things cool.
  23. My DA6 sedan's manifold heat control is missing some parts and is "open". I was too afraid to break the fragile cast iron to deal with it. I left it as is and have had no problems with it whether cold weather or warm weather.
  24. Thanks....I had someone pull out in front of me a little over a year ago and the '24's brakes worked well.....made a lot of skidding noice, but stopped quickly!
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