Jump to content

Bob Zetnick

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Bob Zetnick

  1. On 5/17/2021 at 5:19 PM, Bullfrog_eng said:

    Bob, I used some flat belt material, used on some farm machinery. I riveted the metal cross piece (as in photos above) to it then covered the strap with large electrical shrink sleeve, because I did not think the strap looked that good in its natural state.

    It is nice and stiff, so pushes into the door nicely and does not "kink".  I bought the strap from my bearing/machinery parts supply place an the shrink sleeve from an electrical goods supplier that supplies to the trades.

    Good luck, John



    That's a good idea! I know that belting is strong.

  2. 39 minutes ago, Vintageben said:

    For my 29 Chrysler 65 sedan I got mine from vintagecarparts.co.uk they work well. These guys ship all over the world I was probably lucky as I ordered them when the Aussie dollar was strong


    Thanks! Those look nice!

    • Like 1
  3. 26 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

    I bought some 1/4” thick leather from a saddlery for both my cars, they cut it to the perfect width and then rolled the edges for me. They work really well. I can take pictures if you want to see them. 

    I'd love to see them when you have the time...I've see leather ones on the little "footman loops".....my rubber ones are T-shaped....the "T" fits inside the door and screwed down ends are secured w/ a metal piece and 2 screws.

  4. Does anyone know where I can get reasonably priced, steel /rubber door check straps? I've seen them all rubber, but the wind caught a door and broke it and a door hinge. I remember taking apart my car years ago and they were originally made of thin steel and covered in rubber. Steele Rubber seems to have these, but $175 - $200 a pair! Just wondered if anyone else knew where I could get them somewhat cheaper.

  5. 38 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

    Pic of splice . Stripped off few inches of old to slide up some shrink on existing attached at button . Then solder new wire ,with green shrink over joint . .Twisted wire there is existing . Jacket harden and broke down insulating . 


    Thanks for photo. My contact doesn't look like that....mine is more like the end of a wire with some solder in it. I'm sure part of my problem along with bad wire insulation.

  6. If I remember you have a '29.....I have a '29 DA sedan so setup may be different. My horn wire runs from button at steering, down to Clum switch and out to horn. I had an issue with horn not working at times to sounding off  when I turned the wheel. I tested the horn and it was fine...I have a 20A fuse at the amp gauge which is what was recommended. Temporarily I've grounded horn at the firewall and used a toggle switch to operate horn. Pretty sure my problem is at horn button contact...or insulation is worn through at horn wire and contacts w/ metal tube down steering column

    • Like 1
  7. Could it be a 1912 Premier? I know my photo is a 7-passenger touring, but on the Model 4-40 the front and rear fenders seem to match, headlights and cowl lights seem to match, the upper door panels seem to match (though in my photo the panels are picked out w/ pinstriping vs. the contrasting, painted molding on original photo)....also radiator shape w/ round emblem.....so many makes at the time, so a little hard to pinpoint.


  8. The curve of the cowl, minimal belt molding, sunvisor design, hood louvers and especially the 4 hinges at the front door make me think this is a 1923 Buick....you could get the disk wheels for these in lieu of the wooden wheels shown. Agreed w/ others this is very 1920s clothing. Photo was shot w/ the Palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco as background.

    1923 buick.jpg

    • Like 1
  9. Well done! She's beautiful! I bought my DA 50 years ago too. I have to remember to wear tennis shoes and not clunky hiking boots as when I press on the brake many times I'll be revving it up w/ the gas pedal at the same time.


  10. 5 hours ago, Bullfrog_eng said:

    Today, armed with the above info, I had another go at checking the valve clearances. However I was still confused as a couple of the valves did not open and close when I thought they should. Then it dawned on me that they were stuck open. I looked closer and found the cam followers were stuck up for two valves, one in particular I could not move at all, so I have removed the valve tappet guide and pressed out the two offending cam followers (valve tappets). They were stuck with rust, one very badly. How that occurred puzzles me as everything else is well protected by an oily coating. I have cleaned up the cam followers OK but have not done the guides yet. Hopefully will do so tomorrow, then put it back together and adjust.

    I had rust issues w/ my valves too even though I had an oily coat on them too...turns out my head gasket was leaking.

  11. So, I got an extra cable and have been using it to test grounds for the starter....I also used a test light to to check circuits and haven't found a problem yet. I looked at a Model A video regarding starter "hang-up" where the starter gear can jam into the flywheel ring gear. I loosened the starter enough and thought that I could take it off and check it. Not being a mechanic or electrician I thought I'd ask a stupid question....if I take the starter off to check it I know the hot wire will go to the contact, but do I have to ground the starter case or is the grounded battery enough of a ground?....does that make sense? I just didn't know if I needed more of a ground from battery to starter w/ battery jump cables involved. Thanks!


  12. 55 minutes ago, JACK M said:

    Not really as you wont be cranking thru it.

    I see some cars come with a smaller one of those web looking straps that run from the back of the block to the firewall.

    I guess you could experiment with some jumper cables in your troubleshooting procedure.


    I had a guy once come to my shop complaining that his gas pedal was sparking when he turned on his headlights.

    It was an older pickup that used a rod thru the floor under the foot feed and the rod was scraping against the floorboard. The headlights were looking for a ground back to the battery.

    I suspect that he was getting sparks there when it was light out as well.


    Some wise old guy once told me that "90 % of all electrical problems are groundless".

    Good luck.

    Thanks Jack! I remember you using that quote on another one of my electrical problems! :)  Your headlight story may also be my intermittent lighting problem. When I got my car I had the "web strap" ground going from battery to frame....just wanted a cut-off switch this time. When I got my car running again in 2014 a mechanic and I were working on it and the starter would shut off and get warm, so he grounded the starter to the transmission and all was fine......the guys doing the rest of my wiring took this ground off.....I've run the car  many times since I got it on the road in 2018 without problems, but I'm going to try your grounding idea. Thanks!

    • Like 2
  13. 51 minutes ago, JACK M said:

    If your engine is mounted on rubber you would be wise to add a strap from that starter bolt to the body. (I assume your lights are mounted on the body)

    You could even put a second wire from the disconnect post to its mounting screw.

    I have seen more than one case where the body isn't a well grounded to the path to the battery.

    Thanks, I'll try that. Does a second ground need to as heavy a wire as the main ground?

  14. 15 hours ago, Kevin bc said:

    Kevin BC here

    Do you have a earth strap between the motor and the chassis, my Dodge 8,s both have a strap from the engine rear mount/bel housing to the chassis, by passing the rear engine mount to give the motor a good earth, it is not relying on the front solid mount of the motor which could  have paint , or rust preventing a good earth though the front mount, which is the only contact of the motor  to the chassis.


    regards Kevin

    Thanks, I will check more connections this weekend. My ground cable runs from battery to disconnect switch on firewall, then runs from that switch to a rear starter bolt that mounts starter to rear engine frame member. ...major connections look good, but will check again. That said, car was working fine for 2 years until last week and wondered if it had something to do with lighting problem....that may be a different issue.


  15. 1 hour ago, Mattml430 said:

    I would start by checking all the earth connections. Pull them off and clean back to bare clean metal. Make sure there is no paint under the connections. If your using original old switches the contacts could be either worn or dirty so they may need to come apart and be cleaned. 
    good luck, finding wiring faults can be a pain especially when they are intermittent. 

    Yep, battery and starter switch looks good....I'll check some others.......still don't know why it seems intermittent.

  • Create New...