Bob Zetnick
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Posts posted by Bob Zetnick
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1 hour ago, Mattml430 said:
The ring gear could be badly worn and locking it up. Once it’s stuck it generally won’t make any noise.
If it’s real hot weather and it stop the intake manifold might be getting really hot and vaporising the fuel. I have separated my intake manifold from my exhaust manifold to prevent this happening, modern fuel doesn’t need to be pre heated like the old fuel the cars ran on back in the early days.Yeah, the ring gear has a couple of minor chips, but otherwise good shape......it is hot weather for this area....can't really separate intake from exhaust on manifold as it's one unit. This might be a combination of things. I may try suggestions one at a time...see if it helps. Thanks!
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5 hours ago, Mattml430 said:
Sounds like your starter is locking in when you try start it.
If it’s flooding that will make it hard to start. You may need to regulate the fuel pressure back a little and also check your needle and seat.Is that typical for starter to lock up (no noise whatsoever) when carb is flooded? You are describing what's happening....I didn't know if hot days or overfilled gas tank had anything to do w/ it as it's just been the last few drives. Thanks!
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13 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
I am not in any way second guessing John, didn't want it to sound like I was. It's much easier to take the cap off then drill holes.
Thanks! I do have the old beat up cap that has a hole I can use to check out.
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19 minutes ago, keiser31 said:
#2= Sounds like you need a vented gas cap to me.
Thanks...yeah, I have a bit of a leak where the tank float is, but overfilling the tank may have reduced any air flow......maybe I can drill current gas cap.....thanks!
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I am not a great mechanic and don't want to putz my car up without direction. I have had my car in driveable condition for 6 years, but recently it has been stalling out and hard to get going again. The last month has been hot and I overfilled the gas tank. I have a 6v fuel pump I can regulate. I have the original Stromberg U-2 carb that has been rebuilt. I will say that last year the spring to the gas pedal would not retract and revved the engine up a lot and I had to lift the gas pedal up w/ my foot to idle at normal speed. I replaced spring and oiled linkage to where it's easier to idle, but it's still not perfect. Also, when I go around corners it can stall out, but then start up again while in motion when I get around corner....I downshift to 2nd gear when this happens. Lastly, when I stop for a bit and try to start, the car seems to flood and then the starter totally shuts down, like a dead battery (I've replaced battery and checked cables and terminals...starter is also rebuilt).....no noise at all.....if I push the car backward and then put in gear, then car starts.....car putters until car performs normally and then all is fine. I'm afraid to do errands on my own as I need someone to help push car and I'd love to go to Great Race when they stop in Pueblo, CO this July 1. So these are my thoughts:
1) Carb or distributor might need adjusting due to vibration?
2) I don't have a hole in gas cap and w/ tank so full may not have any pressure to carb?
3) Vapor lock in hot weather?
4) Gears not meshing correctly from starter to flywheel?
Any other ideas are appreciated. Thanks!
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12 hours ago, Bullfrog_eng said:
Bob, you are quite correct. When in the "locked" state, the handle just swivels. When "unlocked", it engages with the mechanism to open the door. It does not lock to the escuteon plate. It is a while since I repaired mine, and can't remember exactly how I went about it, other than slowly and carefully!!! I think I used some heat on parts of it, but as you commented, it is pot metal, so be carefull. My photo below MAY help.
John
John, thanks for the exploded view of the assembly.....I can't imagine what wrong w/ it as it is in such good shape and doesn't even need chroming. The only thing I can think of is perhaps that little spring. I may mess w/ it or just leave the car as is; unlocked.
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I just got an old '29 DA exterior door handle w/ lock & key from eBay. It looks to be in great shape. From what I remember when the door is locked the handle just swivels and when it's unlocked the handle engages w/ the strike plate mechanism to open the door. With this handle no matter how I turn the key the handle just swivels around. I hate to mess w/ this cylinder as the handle is made of pot metal. Any ideas?
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The one I hope to restore soon! I think it was a Texaco.
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I don't have one, but wondered if yours is fixable...Bob's Speedometer helped me on my '29. https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/send-a-gauge/
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Here's the post. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10221203197418586&set=a.1102013839632 and this is the group https://www.facebook.com/groups/197491484165115
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Just saw this on a FB page. It was identified as a 1911-1913 Cutting 40HP Torpedo Touring.
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Mine was originally a rubber coated canvas...seemed very lightweight and thin.....I don't what is that close to original...I've now got a grained vinyl from LeBaron Bonney before it closed.
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2 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:
Anyone recognize if that is the U2?
BTW, it goes without saying, a handy fire extinguisher is recommended during these attempts also.
Sure looks like a U-2 to me...the bowl at the right, linkage controls in middle and air cleaner to left all look right.
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A beautiful car! I have a 1929 Dodge sedan too. If it hasn't been started in 25 years there could be many thing wrong with it. I do have a 6v fuel pump backup...I wouldn't be a bit surprised if old gas hasn't gummed things up. I had to clean out gas tank, carb and get new gas lines. I'd get an owner's manual from Myers Early Dodge. You might check dirtiness / gaps of spark plugs too. Good luck!...it's really nice!...and a fun car to drive!
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My '29 Dodge was seized after 25 years of sitting. I took out plugs, put Marvel Mystery Oil in cylinders and let sit for 2 weeks then used a large socket wrench w/ breaker bar on crankshaft nut.....do not force it. Looks like a very nice car to start with!
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Hated to see this as I've followed your progress at times. I bought my car about the same age as you did though it was 50 years ago......it would devastate me to lose my car in an accident so bad. It's a wonder you weren't seriously injured....glad you're okay, but I'm afraid the insurance company would see it as a total loss. I'm not sure what the insurance company would do w/ a car like yours.....maybe you could keep it....you might talk to them. I think edinmass has a good idea; get another one in good shape w/ insurance money and maybe you could keep the wrecked one for parts, work on the old one for practice / restoration or maybe rebuild the old one (w/ frame work) into a speedster or something. So sorry this happened to you and the car.
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Here is the way mine looked. Yes, the bolt into the head behind this limits the advance / retard, but the horizontal bolt to the right allows the distributor to move freely. There is a clamp for the cable to the left that mounts on the head.
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Not sure whether your car is quite the same, but on my '29 I have U-shaped clips that mount to 2 metal braces behind the back seat...if I remember right the back seat spring frame sits into these clips.....I had to lift seat up a couple of inches while pulling outward....kinda awkward as the seat back is large. The armrest in my car has a sideways keyhole in the metal under upholstery under rear quarter window..... so I have to pull armrest forward until the screw in the armrest aligns with wide end of keyhole....it then pulls right out.....hope that makes sense.....not sure if that is your car's setup, but maybe it helps.
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Thanks all for the great ideas and sources. I guess I was so focused on rubber that I couldn't think of other things. Anyway, I have a number of directions here.
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21 hours ago, Mattml430 said:
These are what I used. Seems to be working well.
Thanks for the photo! Looks very nice!
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On 5/17/2021 at 5:19 PM, Bullfrog_eng said:
Bob, I used some flat belt material, used on some farm machinery. I riveted the metal cross piece (as in photos above) to it then covered the strap with large electrical shrink sleeve, because I did not think the strap looked that good in its natural state.
It is nice and stiff, so pushes into the door nicely and does not "kink". I bought the strap from my bearing/machinery parts supply place an the shrink sleeve from an electrical goods supplier that supplies to the trades.
Good luck, John
That's a good idea! I know that belting is strong.
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39 minutes ago, Vintageben said:
For my 29 Chrysler 65 sedan I got mine from vintagecarparts.co.uk they work well. These guys ship all over the world I was probably lucky as I ordered them when the Aussie dollar was strong
Thanks! Those look nice!
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26 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:
I bought some 1/4” thick leather from a saddlery for both my cars, they cut it to the perfect width and then rolled the edges for me. They work really well. I can take pictures if you want to see them.
I'd love to see them when you have the time...I've see leather ones on the little "footman loops".....my rubber ones are T-shaped....the "T" fits inside the door and screwed down ends are secured w/ a metal piece and 2 screws.
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Does anyone know where I can get reasonably priced, steel /rubber door check straps? I've seen them all rubber, but the wind caught a door and broke it and a door hinge. I remember taking apart my car years ago and they were originally made of thin steel and covered in rubber. Steele Rubber seems to have these, but $175 - $200 a pair! Just wondered if anyone else knew where I could get them somewhat cheaper.
'29 DA stalling and not restarting easily
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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No mine is not...it too is rusted in open position and while I have the parts I'm afraid to break that manifold......I will say that in the 50+ years I've had the car it has never had a starting issue unless a dead battery.