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in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted September 30
Posted September 29
Restoring or restomoding ?
in Buick - Post War
Posted September 28
Bill a couple shots of inspiration ....
Posted September 13
All I have left from my dad's 60 LeSabre is the dash clock that I quickly grabbed off the dash before he parted ways with it to the junker in 1971 or so. Thinking of wiring it up to be a desk clock since it looks like a real jewel anyways or mount it next to my old 62 Healy 3000 chrome winged MK II front bonnet emblem ... All I have left of that car too 😪
That's great 6T and keep em coming ... always enjoy your car finds !
Clean, clean and clean, mean no bad here but really ... who cares if the bottom side looks as good as the top side and in my opinion it should 😜 ... but come on ya just gotta love the bottom end here ... yes only body oxide red primer stock ( baked on not just sprayed on ) from the factory and too gotta post a few picks and only asking $ 56k and change to boot, errr but come-on fella assembly line markings should be on the torque tube but on the coil springs too .... I think not or perhaps another Corvette Club member restored this Buick :
Either too short incorrect length on oil dip stick and/or failing head gasket accounting for the smoke cloud while oil is sucked up during intake stroke and then burned ... 😘
Posted September 12
I believe both the 57 and the 58 had the same frame except the only component differences underside would be the front control arms for the different upper and lower ball joints used in 1958 from that of the first off 1957 model year for ball joints. The 58 was somewhat heavier than the 57 models but shared the same power train i.e. 364 engine. So I believe it would be a simple switch like to like.
Posted September 11
Edited September 11 by buick man
(see edit history)
Gary : Starting from the windshield and proceeding towards the rear glass, you should have 3 rod pickup points to hold the headliner up and in place not placed between the windshield and rear glass. The original headliner was joined in sections at each of these points making up 4 sections just after the windshield and just before the windshield. At each seam a cardboard shim is sewn into the seam and this is what the metal bows slide into via their back side. You instal/slidel them from port to starboard and remove them the same way. Then install the metal crown over the side windows and the center dome lights which on the Roadmaster has one port and one starboard at the center intersection between the front and rear side window glass.
Edit : To be clear there is a space or section seam of headliner between each metal bow. So starting at the windshield juncture proceed rearward and the first seam has no metal bow. The next headliner seam has the first metal bow attached. The continuing to the rear the next headliner seam has no metal bow but the next one does. It follows this pattern to the rear window. Hope this is more clear. I have attached an old achieved photo of my coupe showing how the metal bows start in conjuncture with the head liner seams. If you have a 4-door the same placement applies :
Posted September 6
Edited September 6 by buick man
(see edit history)
Gary: Here is what I know .... My 57 RM coupe has 3 of them and they are chromed and not polished stainless. My 57 model 75 4 door has 3 as well and they too are chrome plated tin as I removed them along with their corresponding rods to replace the headliner. Perhaps the Century has anodized but my Caballero Century were highly polished aluminum. In comparison the 57 Cadillacs were polished aluminum.
Edit: Oh and I have found that attempting to find these are next to impossible for whatever reason. I some 10 casual years of looking for some I have never found them on eBay, trade or hobby sites or rags. I found a set of 3 out of a 57 Cad coupe in a Salvage yard 6 years ago. They were polished aluminum but can develop oxidation and pit.
Posted August 8
Dan O ... black is not just another black there are differences. IF you want exactness and are science minded because after all paint is chemistry, one has to look not at the name a particular color is given but rather at the actual mix ratio formula itself and discern the Toners/Tints used in combination to achieve the overall desired perceived finished saturation ( Color ). Changing the percentages or even adding or eliminating a particular toner/tint can change everything subtle or acutely. For example Dupont's formulation of single stage urethane for the OEM color code "Chrysler Black " uses brown base toners/tints and the end product when compared side by side to a true black like Duponts Centari Pitch Black Acrylic Enamel 99A which uses no browns is not a true black like 99A.
Your Buick used lacquer on the firewall as well as the rest of the car originally from the factory. If you are serious about replicating exactness to factory finish like for example the Corvette Club crowd does, then my suggestion would be to take a look at the Dupont Centari 99A enamel as reference above. An enamel can be massaged to appear like lacquer as can a single stage urethane both of which chemically in a sense come from an acrylic base. 99A overall density renders a complete solid black. Also noteworthy as eluded to by Matt above is that an informed individual cannot compare a base coat / clear coat finish to that of single stage finish be it enamel or urethane or lacquer and at the end of the day still call it a match. Diving further into this for example, urethane based chemistry in simple terms allows the resin to kinda float to the top of the finish to achieve a faux like clear coat protective effect and appearance while in a bc/cc system the clear is completely separate application product just like the clear applied on finger nails, bar tops etc and is all about shine and protection only rendering no aid to hue, tone or depth or saturation of color as the flat base coat cannot contribute to that effect either but for only density of tone. An Enamel has a completely different chemistry and the result is a condensed color tone and in addition results in a deep hue and saturation of color. Lacquer goes even further in both saturation, tone and hue achieving a deep "pond like " true depth that one could almost fall or dive into if possible and renders a finish to an extent dependent in part to the matrix number of properly applied coats. It is easy to apply and extremely easy to color match and to correct and repair. Lacquer paint allows the same light refraction and saturation to that of expensive true china plate and serving ware. The color perceived goes deep and continues into the substrate.
Another aspect of color matching involves the use of Flattening Agents to a paint. These silica based compounds serve to deflect and scatter light hitting the surface thereby diffusing the shine. They float to the outer mill surface eventually during cure and reside there. Care in the amount and area where applying flattened paints should be considered since any type of intentional applied rubbing, compounding or abrasion upon the service thereafter will in effect remove them from the finish rendering the surface to shine once again. Flattening agents also soften the cured surface and render a less " Pencil Hardness " durability to the finished cured coat making scratching and markings and ability to keep the surface clean more problematic.
This is why painting ones Classic with a bc/cc simply does not in the end match color hue, tone and saturation original factory correctness and why these paint jobs render a completely different look to classics from the factory. It is akin to wearing latex clear gloves or not. It is not a subtle difference, If a car today that is a newly lacquer painted classic is stored in a covered garage then the age old complaint of fading lacquer paint is a mute point. Even with decades of exposure go take a stroll in an old salvage yard notice how the factory lacquer paint jobs still hold up. Rub the haze off the surface and note the shine. Another fable often parroted over and over again is that lacquer checks and cracks over time. This is true yet was started only because from the result of lacquer repaint jobs that were hands-down improperly prepared and most importantly improperly applied in terms of corner cutting application methods rendering overly applied "hosed on" mill thickness, incorrect recoating times and temperature.
Posted August 3
oops ... your right Stuart my bad ... should not attempt reading and responding after midnight
Posted August 2
A bump .... Might I suggest making a complete list of the parts you have and condition they are in and post that to this listing ... Make a list of what work needs to be done in detail ... Also set and post an asking price for the project with all parts included and if desired post an asking price for just the rolling chassis as shown and then separately price the parts if so desired.
This approach I believe would greatly enhance the overall sale effort and results. GLWTS !
Funny no photos of the top up, nor under car frame area/suspension areas and overall interior photos. A drive video would be a big bonus for this kinda bucks being asked .... Kinda looks like a Craigslist listing.
Can you post the listing or a link from craigslist ?
Just my opinion and like noted above ... Use a proper method approach and patience.
To prevent damage to moving components simply pour directly into the valve chambers accessed via the removed intake manifold some Marvel Mystery Oil and a little diluted phosphoric acid. Many a stuck engine short of a failed head gasket is due to the fact the 45 degree angle of the valve face and seat is an ideal location for atmospheric oxidation and setting the valve face to it's seat. This occurs more often then the occurrence of a ring set into the cylinder bore due to atmospheric surface oxidation from setting. As a bonus this solution will via gravity find it's way down onto the top of the piston and leach along at the proper angle to the portion of piston skirt and ring location where condensation via gravity has set the ring to the bore walls. Then wait with patience for a week or so then gently apply shock to the valve/crank train to coax movement. If no movement then add some more solution and wait. Repeat and wait as necessary until one gets slight movement then wait and repeat. Works every single time and no cowboy or gorilla damage to close tolerance components occurs rendering an otherwise good engine when parked into a basket case and many time negates the need to overhaul an otherwise sound engine simply due to atmospheric oxidation on components. Never neanderthal the engine with a one time make or break approach to free it.
Posted July 28
Very nice car indeed is an understatement .... and ohh that yellow that just is just cheerful and lite ...and with an alternator already installed too. The first year of the Nailhead. This is the perfect car that anyone can take their time on and replace just simply what is needed like the headliner, upholstery and weather stripping on just a few Saturdays of dedication since all needed parts and materials are very accessible and easy to source. We assume by the surrounding vegetation in the photos you are either in Florida or perhaps California. How can anyone possibly go wrong at this price acquisition point and a Grand Roadmaster too .... GLWL - dave
Posted July 24
Edited July 24 by buick man
(see edit history)
Here are shots of my 57 Coupe from archived photos of the E Brake Mechanism consisting of spring, clamps, cables, cable stay, rubber rebound etc .... Hope this helps and is not too much - too late :
Posted July 10
Really a nice find for a local. All this car really needs IF the engine is not frozen is a love affair with a new lacquer paint course, rubber seals and carpet. Speaking of lacquer paint, I love lacquer paint. Apply it in your driveway, garage, recreation room, etc or where ever. Use a Compliant needle and cap gun not a HVLP setup so it atomizes properly. Just a simple surface clean prep session and tape off of body panels and bright work; lightly scuff the old system up to 220, clean, tack then apply 2 coats of catalyzed epoxy primer over original properly prepped original and sound surfaces; wait 12 hours, then lay on first round of 2 coat layer of lacquer paint. Wait 2 days, then apply another 2 coats. Wait 1 week, lightly color sand with 400, then apply another 2 coats of lacquer, wait 2 days, color sand again then apply another 2 coats of lacquer, then wait 2 days color sand then apply another 2 coats but with the last coat 50% reduced with slow lacquer thinner. Then let it set outside for 1-month. Then color sand again with 1500 paper. Then wait another month, then lightly buff and wax. Each coat can be applied early morning or late evening. .... Oops, now I just went on another rant again ..... 😗
If anyone is listening and your OEM system is still tight and working but not all that cold because it never was .... A simple and ergonomic simple solution to consider is installing in series another second condenser and larger receiver/dryer pot if you have a thermal expansion valve. The condenser is easily accessible in front as is the dryer but unfortunately the evaporator is not so work with what's in front of you. That way you can keep your rebuilt stock seeds n stems compressor with so-so 134A modern coolant and at the same time increase the condensing rate since the condenser works to reduce the temperature and pressure of hot gasses coming from the refrigerant. In addition, the condenser is also responsible for moving the cooled liquid refrigerant to the receiver/dryer or accumulator. Electric pump driven A/C systems use this approach. That way one does not have to bring your barge into dry dock and recreate the wheel so to speak with a frankenstein hybrid or a complete makeover or spend deep pocket for an under dash unit .... just another of my $ 10 advice specials ..
Posted July 9
Well how about David Edwards current inventory ... how does that unit look and is it fully vulcanized ... ?
Posted July 8
It would be informative if we could see a fresh OEM Steele re-vulcanized unit compared side by side with the one offered on eBay and one of Edward's, set up in a group photo and a comparison review on each. If someone has recently received a Steele job they could submit a few photos and a summation review. Also, If someone has the one offered on eBay that is a repro or one from one of the usual suppliers perhaps they could include a few photos and a review as well. Same goes for the one offered by the NJ group. Just a few thoughts ....
Posted July 6
I would have to check but I believe the one I received from David as a spare around 2011 was not vulcanized or had a separate cup ... but has been years since I checked it out. Either way, if yours is Sir Lance, perhaps applying some red rubber grease on the rubber lip upon installation would be a good idea .. and if you buy the one you listed above on line come back and let us know what you think of it quality wise. - Cheers
in Me and My Buick
Posted June 20
Edited June 20 by buick man
(see edit history)
Not to bad anyone, but I have never honestly had a smooth straight experience with canvas or upholstery folks. Be it my boat or cars over the years. I mean there is just gonna be " something " that creeps up somewhere in the project and I do not mean unknowns creeping up. But it is on their side .... either things or materials get lost or the project time table to completion goes from a linear concept to something logarithmic and exponential to a shift in costs due to this or that, non returned calls to the point or you have to shadow them and camp out front of the shop to get their attention. Upholstery one would think would be pretty straight forward. Do the take offs and get to cutting and sewing. The opposite for example but very similar in complications setting in is the not so straight forward average plumbing project. Admittedly more complicated but regardless how many seemingly straight forward the number of turns, couplings and angles you anticipate, scale and draw out ... Something " always" results in more trips to the store, more turns, more couplings and less angles etc. That is why most plumbers drive van trucks I guess cause they need all those extra parts and fittings.
Don here is what I would do and have done many times to avoid the above mentioned BS. Get yourself a good pair of hog wire pliers. Take the seats out complete and set them on a good adequately surface working bench and surgically remove the skins from the seat cushions. Then carefully as possible remove the cushions and put them is a container or make something that will safely contain them individually.
Next remove the stitching from each of the pattern set blanks you remove that when sewn together make up your completed upholstery for that seat. When they redo your seats these steps is exactly what they have to do in order to use your old original sectional patterns as a template to trace out onto new material before cutting out. Different upholsters use various outside boundary hem / sew back lines. This means when they are tracing off your original individual patterns they allow an additional perimeter amount beyond the outer edge of original pattern piece and mark out these dimensions as such to allow for shrinkage, hem lines, seat cushion material, contouring etc. Either way, if you bring in your individual patterns as a number set over half the battle has been waged at this point. They can take from there and do their professional magic. In the meantime you can media blast your seat frames, springs etc and catalyze epoxy primer the whole works or get everything powder coated and make ready for the upholsterer. Or you can ... Do the frames/springs first and then bring the whole works over at the same time as your original patterns that way they have everything they need to start laying out, cutting and sewing. Since you have a Buick Roadmaster convertible go over to youtube and look at Jay Leno's R.M. convertible. He has a complete video show casing it. Take note of the factory original puffy contouring of the complete original leather seat, Notice the seat is not " Pan Cake Flat " but rather quite stuffed and where the piping meets the skins there is a definite raised radius contouring to allow for factory correct stuffing of foam and cotton. This is the correct look not flat lifeless " Slam it Out " upholstery work. It takes much more craftsmanship and time to do it correctly and that is why when you go and take a good look on many so called premiere restoration including frame off projects now days, the seats are pancake flat with little to no contouring. Tell tale evidence of a slam dunk out the door job .......
Oh .... Make sure to insist they use a special very strong non rotatable sewing hem threading called Gortex. It is made of a polypropylene material and boat upholstery and canvas folks use it. This polypropylene thread needs special sized needles for the particular and various Industrial Sewing Machines your upholsterer uses in their shop and Singer makes the various needles for their particular machine setup. Use this type of thread and you will never have a split seat due to thread rot failure again.
Posted June 19
This fan clutch looks like a solid one. Is not a clutched assembly superior in over cooling functions ?