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StephenM

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About StephenM

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  • Birthday 08/25/1938
  1. Village of Brodheadsville in the Pocono area of Pennsylvania, about a mile from my home. This Reatta was sold this morning, se my posts in "Reattas for Sale" http://lh6.ggpht.com/_zmSOavkeL3M/SnRd-e0QUxI/AAAAAAAAEDs/mQvA2CF1EJg/s512/Reatta_053.JPG http://lh3.ggpht.com/_zmSOavkeL3M/Sh44hp-yfdI/AAAAAAAADnQ/sN77gBTDcKw/s512.JPG Regards - Steve
  2. FYI this car was sold for $3500.00 via Craigslist. Regards - Steve
  3. Ok - after a careful examination, there is no visable rust. Steve
  4. Thanks Mr. Wowee and Roger. The form was a great help in not overlooking things. Steve
  5. Dave- I doubt that the car has been driven in the winter and has probably spent most of its life in the garage. There's no rust That I am aware of. Tommorrow I will carefully examine areas below the belt line, particularily fender wells and the the bottom of the doors and sills. I'll let you know what I find. If you are aware of areas prone to rusting, please get back to me and I'll check those areas. Would you like photos of specific areas? Let me know. Thanks - Steve
  6. The first link below will take you to a `Youtube’ video where you can see the windows, headlamps, antenna, and sunroof in operation. Also, the video shows me risking my life as my wife drives past me: The next link is to a photo site where I’ve posted 35 high-resolution photos of the Reatta. Click on whatever photo you want then click on the magnifying-glass-icon (above photo on the right) to switch to the high-resolution mode. Use your mouse to move the picture around to get a detailed look at a particular part of the car: http://picasaweb.google.com/genettos/Forsale1?authkey=Gv1sRgCMz7_
  7. <span style="font-weight: bold"> <span style="color: #3333FF">The following is an “Autocheck” vehicle report that I saved as a text file to be able to post in this forum. It is easy to “doctor” a text file but I didn’t. The report costs $15.00 dollars; the VIN is in the report so you can get your own if you wish. </span> </span> <span style="font-weight: bold">AutoCheck Vehicle History Report</span> 1990 Buick Reatta Report Run Date: 2009-05-26 17:14:04.150 EDT VIN:<span style="font-weight: bold">1G4EC13C1LB900659</span> Year :1990
  8. <span style="font-weight: bold"> <span style="color: #3333FF">I have only owned this Reatta for one year.</span> </span> Year? <span style="font-weight: bold"> <span style="color: #FF0000">1990</span> </span> Coupe? <span style="font-weight: bold"> <span style="color: #FF0000">Yes</span> </span> Mileage? <span style="font-weight: bold"> <span style="color: #FF0000">73,481 (5/28/09)</span> </span> Considered Correct? <span style="font-weight: bold"> <span style="color: #FF0000">Yes</sp
  9. Unfortunately, I need to sell my Reatta; I bought it as a toy to play with in my retirement. I find at 71 years old my health does not let me enjoy driving, polishing and tinkering with it. I’ve owned it about a year and a month and have only put about 3,000 miles on it. It now has a bit less then 73,500 miles on the odometer. As far as I can tell it is exactly as it was when the original owner drove it out of the showroom less normal wear and tear. I have about $4,100.00 invested and would like to recoup it. Many photos are linked to on my 4th post! In my next three posts: --- Completed
  10. StephenM

    Just FYI

    1989 Reatta with bad brakes; $1500/BO http://newjersey.craigslist.org/car/701579483.html Thats all I know. Steve
  11. I think Ronnie meant "does the plug turn at all", not whether the engine turns over. Did you try tightening first then loosen? Start the engine using five new plugs. Try removing the stuck plug when the engine is hot. Good luck - Steve
  12. It's probably best to read the very first post on the forum (a STICKY). Fill out the sellers form and copy/paste into this (your) thread. Everyone likes photos! Hint! Regards - Steve
  13. It works. Usually used for boosted systems to cool charge. For daily continuous use you need a whole lot of water. OK for a stoplight drag race if you dont value your head gaskets. I never had one but an old friend did, CC 1957. His dad was a fighter mechanic during WW2 and built it for him. Steve
  14. Ok, no need to reply, the mechanism was more advanced than I thought. The online service manual describes the electrical operation of the lift motor. The motor is powered by rapid electrical pulses. Between pulses the spinning motor acts as a generator and produces a voltage. If the motor is stopped by the mechanical limits or by jamming: - No voltage is produced - No voltage is sensed causing - Drive pulses to cease, motor stops Steve
  15. I've completed the repair of my headlamp lift motor by replacing the three disintegrated plastic rollers within the large gear. I've tested it electrically on the workbench and everything seems OK; output shaft spins with a lot of torque. My question is that I'm not sure what purpose the rollers serve. I thought they would realease and allow freewheeling when the headlamp reached the limit of travel. That does not seem to be the case as they appear to lock the gear to the shaft. What am I misconstruing? Thanks - Steve ... ..
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