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Terry Wiegand

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Everything posted by Terry Wiegand

  1. I THINK THIS WILL BE THE FINAL UPDATE ON THIS PROJECT FOR MY GOOD FRIEND OUT IN ROME, NEW YORK. THANKS FOR THE SUGGESTIONS, ENCOURAGEMENT, AND WELL WISHES. MARVEL MYSTERY OIL AND KROIL DID NOT HAVE ANY EFFECT ON THIS FITTING WHATSOEVER. A WHOLE LOT OF NASTY WORDS AND OBSCENE GESTURES TOWARDS THE FITTING HAD ABSOLUTELY NO EFFECT EITHER. I TALKED WITH JIM THE OTHER NIGHT AND RELAYED THE WHOLE STORY ABOUT WHAT WAS TRIED AND WHAT DID NOT HAPPEN AS PLANNED. HE IS JUST TICKLED TO PIECES THAT THE LEAK HAS BEEN FIXED AND THAT EVERYTHING IS STILL INTACT. I RELATED TO HIM HOW MR. HEIL ADVOCATED BEATING ON THE FITTING. HIS EXACT WORDS WERE, "I'LL BEAT ON HIM THE NEXT TIME I SEE HIM". THE RADIATOR WILL BE BOXED BACK UP AND SENT BACK IN THE EARLY PART OF THE NEXT WEEK. I THINK WE ALL HAD SOME FUN WITH THIS PROJECT. I TRULY HOPE THAT MR. HEIL AND MR. SHAW LEARNED SOMETHING HERE. TERRY WIEGAND DOO DAH AMERICA
  2. Hello Marty. It was great to meet and visit with you also. We had a great time while we were there too. I guess you remember that Barbara and I got married while we were down there. We made an honest lady out of her quite nicely. Now, back to the issue at hand. I'm just not sure if this drain fitting is going to be freed or not. I'm trying the Kroil route for a few days. Jim has told me that if this does not work not to worry about it. He is just as happy as can be that the leak has been fixed and that it has been cleaned out thoroughly. I think that all the readers of this thread can readily see that a great deal of fun can be had in playing with old Buicks. And I think we even have a couple of guys that have learned a thing or two. By the way, what I related about the vet was NOT a joke - that is on the level. I'm really surprised that wasn't in the newspapers everywhere. We even locked up our County Sheriff a few years ago for theft. Doo Dah is a great place to live. Thanks for the help guys. Terry Wiegand 1916 Buick Model D-45 1916 Buick Model D-45 1916 Buick Model D-45 1920 Buick Model K-46 1922 Buick Model 22-6-48 Life Member AACA Life Member HCCA Life Member VMCCA Life Member Harley Owners Group Member BCA Member Society of Automotive Historians
  3. You just gotta love the help you get when comments like the above two are flushed out. Darn, Mr. Shaw, I completely forgot about you being a valve expert and all. How come you didn't pipe up sooner and help me out here with this thing. Seriously, for a moment now, I have a shop towel soaked in Kroil wrapped around this fitting with the c-clamp in place. We'll try that for a few days and see what result I get. At this point I'm ready to try just about anything that's reasonable. If I knew how to get photos on these postings I'd just show everyone what I am up against. I'm just a lowly toolmaker and machinist. Seeing Mr. Shaw's name reminded me of something that happened here in our town last summer. We had a scandal here in our town that involved a doctor by the name of Shaw. He was run out of town because he started having affairs with some of his patients. I told Barbara, Dang, I hate to see him go - he was the best veterinarian we ever had. The name Shaw has just stuck in our minds ever since. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress - if there is any. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah
  4. One thing that I forgot to mention in my earlier posting is this. I spoke with another good Buick friend about this very problem and he related to me that someone else told him to use Vaseline on the tapered fitting. He also told me that he did this AND put two washers on the spring to stiffen up the spring. He tells me that this works perfectly - not a leak or drip anywhere. Heck of a good idea there. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America
  5. Thanks to all who have replied about this. The fact that the radiator does not belong to me really weighs into this thing heavily. My good friend Jim out in Rome (Mr. Heil knows him well too!) has entrusted me to help him with this project. There just aren't very many 'old time' radiator shops out there any more. All the so-called radiator places nowadays jerk the old one out and put in a new one with plastic tanks. I wasn't joking one bit about that fitting being solid. I will readily admit to not knowing much about Kroil. My Dad was involved heavily in John Deere 2-cylinder Tractor restoration for 50+ years and I watched him do things that were deemed impossible with Marvel Mystery Oil. I can really appreciate the suggestion about applying a small amount of heat. You guys are right - a radiator runs under 'HOT' conditions. I just cannot help but think that the cast steel will act as a heat sink in a very concentrated area and possibly do some not so nice things to the solder. If I am going to be wrong on this I want to be wrong on the side of caution. I will try the Kroil for a few days and report back on the progress. I got a kick out of Brian Heil's idea of sacrificing the bottom radiator hose. Does that mean he is a hoser? I think I'll leave that alone. More later. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America
  6. I need some help here folks. I have a good friend out in Rome, New York who has a beautiful 1923 Model 48 4-Passenger Coupe. Last fall he told me that the radiator was leaking in the top tank area. He sent the radiator out to an old time radiator shop here in my home town. This shop has been in business for over 60 years doing agricultural, over-the-road truck, and automotive repair work of all kinds. They had the leak fixed about 2 hours after he opened the crate. He flushed, back-flushed, and pressure tested the unit at 1/2 pound of pressure. He told me that the radiator was as solid as a rock. He also related to me that this particular radiator was one of the nicest ones that has come through his shop in a long time. There might be a couple of bent fins here and there but they will be straightened before it goes back to him. Here's the problem - the drain fitting on the inside of the bottom tank is frozen up solid. I'll say that that fitting hasn't moved in over 80 years. The fitting body is cast steel and is blind riveted in 4 places and then soldered onto the tank. The drain valve is cast brass and is tapered to fit the fitting body and held tight by a small spring on the top of the fitting. The fact that you have two dissimilar metals and one of them being brass has caused things to freeze up solid - and I mean SOLID! I had this very same thing on my '22 48. I was lucky and got mine to turn loose and then reworked the brass fitting with a 1/2 inch pipe nipple and a drain cock on the bottom of that. Works real nice. I did away with that turning of the valve. It stays in place and the drain cock does the job nicely. I was going to do the same setup for my friend and his problem would be solved. Well, guess what, that fitting is almost like being welded in place. Here are the things that are absolutely ruled out - #1 applying any kind of heat to the fitting. #2 a small hammer WILL NOT even be thought about. And #3 no strong chemicals. I have applied Marvel Mystery Oil to soak on top of the fitting and have a very sturdy, fine-threaded, C-clamp in place now. I am going to leave the clamp in place for a few days and try it again. Now, I have asked for help, advice, and/or whatever, so do not get me wrong here. I am all ears. I have been up against some tough problems before and this one ranks right up there. As sure as I am writing this there is gonna be a person who will tell me to use a solution of automatic transmission oil and acetone. Tried that once after I read that and it was an absolute waste of time and money. Whoever came up with that must have had a bridge they were wanting to sell. Marvel Mystery Oil is without a doubt the best penetrating solution that has came down the road. This thing has got me scratching my head and rubbing my A Double S. What say you Buick experts out there? Any and all suggestions and help will be much appreciated. Terry Wiegand Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  7. Larry, I can truly sympathize with you regarding the performance issues on the old Marvel Carburetors. At one point in time I was in your very same situation. I paid a huge amount of money for a Stromberg carburetor that I was going to put on my 1922 6-cylinder Buick. I am a HUGE fan of authencity and this just about made me sick to think of having a 'bastardized' Buick. I started asking questions about rebuilding the original Marvel. I forget now who it was that suggested I should talk with the folks at Classic Carburetors down in Phoenix. I called and spoke with Mark Buber and told him all about the coughing, choking, belching fits that this engine would go through. It got so bad that toward the end I could not go more than two blocks and hope to get back home without towing the car. The last time it pulled one of those 'fits' I got the car back into the shop and immediately pulled the carburetor to be sent for rebuilding. THE BEST THING I EVER DID FOR THE CAR!! About 3 months later I got back a restored Marvel Carburetor that looked so nice that I almost hated to put it back on the engine. Mark had a note in the box that asked me to call him when I got the unit unpacked and ready to install. He carefully explained just what was wrong with the unit and what they did to repair things. The MOST IMPORTANT THING that they did was flow test the unit on an engine they have at their shop. The carburetor was 'dialed in' to run perfectly. He told me to do just three things - bolt it onto the manifold, hook up the plumbing, hook up the linkage, and DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE. He told me that he would come up there and bite me on the back of the hand if I did! They did a complete rebuild on this carburetor. After getting everything hooked up and ready to go I do not mind telling you that I was scared to death to step on that starter pedal. After about two revolutions the engine caught and settled down into one of the sweetest idles that I have ever heard with a 6-cylinder Buick engine. I messed with it for awhile before easing it out of the shop onto the street. When I got into second gear that car took off like a scalded dog. I put about 20 miles on it before heading back home. The car runs beautiful now. Change the Marvel out - my advice is don't do it. Have the boys at Classic Carburetors rebuild your existing unit and you will be amazed at how well the car will run, plus, you will be money ahead and 'original'. These guys do not work on anything newer than 1955. They have rebuilt the carburetors on all three of my Buicks and I am extremely happy with their work. You can reach them at - Classic Carburetors, 3116 East Shea Boulevard, Phoenix, Arizona 85028 Phone - (602) 971-3300 Call me if you want more details. I have digital photos that I can send to you. This will truly be the best money you will ever spend on your old Buick. Terry Wiegand Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  8. I HAVE A COUPLE OF THOUGHTS REGARDING THE 1926 BUICK ENGINE THAT HAS BEEN DISCUSSED HERE. I HAVE THREE BUICKS FROM THE MIDDLE TEENS TO THE EARLY TWENTIES. THEY ARE ALL POWERED WITH THE 6-CYLINDER ENGINE. ALL THREE OF THESE CARS WILL RUN THE SOCKS OFF ANY CHEVROLET OR T-MODEL FORD OF THE SAME YEAR. I'D LIKE TO REMIND YOU THAT THESE ENGINES REPRESENTED THE EPITOME OF ENGINE ENGINEERING IN THEIR TIME. YOU ARE DEALING WITH A LOW SPEED LOW COMPRESSION ENGINE. THERE WAS NO COUNTER-BALANCING ON THE CRANKSHAFT AND THEY ALL USED A 'BUILT TO DO THE JOB' FLYWHEEL. THE TORQUE GENERATED BY A HEAVY ROTATING MASS (AKA FLYWHEEL) WAS WHAT MADE THE CAR MOVE. I HAVE BEEN AROUND JOHN DEERE TRACTORS ALL MY LIFE AND THE FLYWHEEL ON A MODEL 'D' IS WHAT ALLOWED IT TO PULL A 3 BOTTOM PLOW. THAT FLYWHEEL WEIGHED IN AT AROUND 125+ POUNDS AND WAS WAY LARGER THAN ANY BUICK ENGINE FLYWHEEL EVER THOUGHT OF BEING. WHAT I AND OTHERS DO NOT UNDERSTAND IS THIS - WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO ACCOMPLISH BY TAKING WEIGHT OFF THE FLYWHEEL ON A 1926 BUICK ENGINE? IT WON'T MAKE THE CAR GO ANY FASTER DOWN THE ROAD. IT'S NOT GEARED THAT WAY. 30 - 35 MPH IS ALL THE FASTER I WANT TO GO IN AN AUTOMOBILE THAT HAS PLATE GLASS WINDOWS AND A WOOD FRAMED BODY. I MEAN NO DISRESPECT IN WHAT I AM GOING TO SAY NEXT, SO, ALL THE SPEED FREAKS SHOULDN'T GET THEIR SHORTS IN A WAD. I WAS 18 ONCE UPON A TIME AND I HAD A '55 CHEVROLET 210 POST. (THAT'S A 2-DOOR SEDAN TO YOU YOUNG PUPS) IT HAD A 265 SHORT BLOCK, 283 HEADS, AND A 327 CRANK. THAT FIGURED OUT TO 301 CUBIC INCHES AND DAMN THAT THING WOULD RUN. I PAID A $145.00 FINE FOR DOING 107 MPH IN A POSTED 60 MPH ZONE. THAT GOT THE 'HOT ROD MENTALITY' OUT OF ME RIGHT QUICK. THAT WAS IN 1966 BEFORE I HEADED OFF TO THE NAVY. THE POINT I'M TRYING TO MAKE IS THIS - IF YOU WANT A GO-FAST MACHINE - GO GET ONE, BUT, DON'T TEAR UP A NICE ORIGINAL ENGINE OR CAR TO GET IT. I THINK MR. SHAW CAN RELATE TO WHAT I AM TELLING YOU GUYS HERE. LET'S SEE IF WE CAN GET HIM TO DROP A SMALL BLOCK IN HIS VERY NICE 1913. I REALLY WISH THE GENTLEMAN WOULD EXPLAIN JUST WHAT IT IS AND WHAT HE HOPES TO ACCOMPLISH BY CHANGING THE PROPERTIES OF THE ENGINE THIS WAY. SOMETHING ELSE TO THINK ABOUT - BUICK HAD THE WINNINGEST FACTORY-SPONSERED RACING TEAM IN AUTOMOBILE HISTORY BY 1910. ALL ONE HAS TO DO IS LOOK THE OTHER GUY SQUARE IN THE EYE AND SAY 'ARE YOU FEELING LUCKY BUB? I'M DRIVING A BUICK' TERRY WIEGAND DOO-DAH AMERICA
  9. Gary, The fact that your Buick is a 4-cylinder model DOES make a difference. That would make it a Model 36. I will readily admit that I am not as well versed on the 4-cylinder models as the sixes. My Illustrated Parts Book does not show the piece parts for a front wheel driven speedometer. Also, the book does not show the transmission driven speedometer internal gear. Please send me a private email and I will direct you to a good source of information and help for your Buick. Terry Wiegand terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  10. THE PERSON THAT YOU NEED TO GET WITH ABOUT THE 1922 BUICK SPEEDOMETER AND SWIVEL DRIVE UNIT IS - RUSS FURSTNOW 3545 WEST KILTIE LOOP FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA 86001 PHONE - (928) 526-1343 EMAIL - 1stnow@msn.com I HAVE A 1922 MODEL 48 COUPE. I WILL TRUST THAT YOU ARE WANTING THE SWIVEL UNIT FOR AN OLDER CAR. THE SPEEDOMETER CABLE ON A 1922 BUICK IS DRIVEN FROM AN INTERNAL GEAR ON THE TAILSHAFT OF THE TRANSMISSION. TERRY WIEGAND SOUTH HUTCHINSON, KANSAS PHONE/FAX - (620) 665-7672
  11. A MODEL T CHRISTMAS 'TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS AND THE OLD MODEL 'T' WOULD NEED TO BE STARTED - A REAL JOB FOR ME. FOR WE WERE ALL GOIN' TO THE COMMUNITY HALL OL' SANTA WAS COMIN' WITH PRESENTS FOR ALL. THE OIL WAS SO STIFF AND THE BATTERY WAS OLD SHE'D BE SO HARD TO START OUT THERE IN THE COLD. IT HADN'T BEEN STARTED IN OVER A WEEK WHICH MEANT THAT ASSISTANCE I REALLY SHOULD SEEK. I GOT TWO LARGE PANS OF HOT COALS AND ASHES WHICH I PLACED UNDER LIZZIE IN A COUPLE OF DASHES. THE COILS, DO THEY BUZZ? TRY THEM ONE AT A TIME THE GAP ON THE PLUGS - THE SIZE OF A DIME. I PULLED OUT THE CHOKE AND THE CRANK I DID TRY THE MOTOR SO STIFF - I THOUGHT I WOULD CRY. FOR THE CRANK WHEN I PULLED IT - CAME UP OH-SO-SLOW AND I KNEW AT THIS RATE THE CAR NEVER WOULD GO. I GOT SOME HOT WATER WHICH I POURED FROM THE KETTLE OVER THE INTAKE - MORE THAN A LITTLE. I CRANKED AND I CRANKED - TILL I WAS READY TO DROP AND JUST AS I DID - IT VENTURED A 'POP'. THIS GAVE ME NEW HOPE - I RETURNED TO MY WORK FOR AS LONG AS THERE'S HOPE - I NEVER WOULD SHIRK. IN THE NEXT FIFTEEN MINUTES - FOUR TIMES IT DID FIRE JUST OFTEN ENOUGH MY THOUGHTS TO INSPIRE. I THOUGHT IT ALL OVER - OUT THERE IN THE DARK LET'S TRY JUST A LITTLE ADVANCE OF THE SPARK. I TOOK HOLD OF THE CRANK AND GAVE IT A TWIST JUST THEN I FELT A SHARP WHACK ON THE WRIST. I FOUND 'TWASN'T BROKEN (WHY WAS I SO DUMB? I SHOULD HAVE WATCHED CLOSELY THE PLACING OF THUMB). BY NOW I'D DECIDED TO TRY A NEW TACK ONE REAR WHEEL I'LL RAISE WITH THE JACK. AGAIN I TOLD MA TO PULL DOWN ON THE SPARK IF I GET THIS CAR STARTED - IT WON'T BE A LARK. JUST AS I WAS GETTING AS MAD AS A HATTER SHE STARTS WITH A ROAR, A BANG, AND A CLATTER. THE VIBRATION SHOOK HER RIGHT OFF THE JACK AND I WAS RUN OVER AS I STOOD IN MY TRACKS. ABOUT THE TIME IT RAN THROUGH THE SHED MA PULLED ON THE BRAKE, AND TO ME SHE SAID - 'NOW DUST OFF YOUR PANTS - LET'S DON'T BE TOO LATE YOU KNOW THE PROGRAM STARTS STRAIGHT UP AT EIGHT'. WELL, WE LOADED THE KIDS AND WE FLEW THROUGH THE SNOW OL' LIZZIE AT LAST WAS A-RARIN' TO GO. WHEN WE ARRIVED AT THE HALL - I KNEW WE WERE LATE FOR THE YARD WAS PARKED FULL - CLEAN OUT TO THE GATE. FROM INSIDE THE BUILDING CAME A HEARTY 'HO' 'HO' 'HO' IT SEEMED THAT OL' SANTA WAS READY TO GO. AS I RAN UP THE WALK - T'WARDS THE BIG DOUBLE DOOR IT SUDDENLY FLEW OPEN, AND THEN WITH A ROAR CAME A STAMPEDE OF REINDEER - I WAS KNOCKED ON MY REAR ONCE AGAIN THAT EVENING SHOOTING STARS DID APPEAR. AND I HEARD THE FAT DRIVER - AS I WAS LOSING MY SIGHT, "MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL, AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT" With sincere apologizies to Clement Moore and our Model T friends everywhere. This writing was found in a book that was owned by my life-long friend, Vaden Hunley Stroud. He was the Auto Mechanics teacher at The Hutchinson, Kansas Senior High School from 1927 - 1969. My father had him in school and he knew me every day of my life until his passing in 1986. There isn't a Christmas that comes and goes that I do not think about him and my dad and the wonderful old stories he would tell. The author is unknown and I wanted to share this with the Ford guys out there. Have shared this with all my early Buick friends and it always brings grins and chuckles. From our home to yours - "MERRY CHRISTMAS and A HAPPY NEW YEAR" Terry and Barbara Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  12. I am saddened to report the passing of Terry Dunham. I spoke with his wife, Jeanne, this morning and she said that he passed away last evening. The folks who are passionate about old Buicks and Buick Motor Company history lost a tremendous friend. Please keep Terry's family in your thoughts and prayers. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  13. I HAVE FOR SALE A 1928/1929 WILLYS-KNIGHT MODEL 56 TAILLIGHT RIM AND THE 'STOP' PLATE BEHIND THE GLASS LENS. THERE IS NO GLASS LENS. THE RIM AND PLATE ARE IN VERY NICE ORIGINAL CONDITION. NO DENTS, DINGS, OR BENDING. THE FIRST $40.00 TAKES THEM. TERRY WIEGAND 210 EAST AVENUE F SOUTH HUTCHINSON, KANSAS 67505-2038 PHONE/FAX - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  14. Hello Chevrolet Enthusiasts, I have what you guys might think is a strange request. I have been a GM person all of my life. I have always had Buick cars and Chevrolet trucks. I have a 1916, 1920, and 1922 Buick car and a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado pickup. I ordered this truck new and it has just a little over 50,000 miles on the odometer. The factory plastic is still on the extended cab rear seat. This truck has been used CAREFULLY since day one. It looks brand new. Here is my problem. The clear coating on the alloy wheels is starting to turn crappy looking. I have a local guy who can bead blast the wheels and powder coat them the gray color that is in the cavity on the wheels now. I could live with that, but, the center solid disc has a plastic back that can not be coated and baked because of the plastic back. I could go to a modern polished aluminum Chevrolet wheel, but, Holy Crap!, my dealer is telling me an outrageous figure for the four new wheels. Does anybody out there have any ideas or suggestions on how to deal with the wheels that I have now. I think that these wheels are really pretty cool and I would like to keep them on the truck if at all possible. I'm all ears as they say. Terry Wiegand South Central Kansas terrywiegand@prodigy.net Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672
  15. I was contacted by an old fellow in Wichita, Kansas who has a 1928 Buick Model 26 Coupe that he is wanting to sell. He explained that he and his wife are selling their property and moving to an assisted living facility. The old Buick is going to have to go also. He told me that the car is pretty much original and has about 17,000 beleived actual miles on it. It was sold new in Newton, Iowa. It can be started and driven at any time. I told him that it would be close to the first of the month before I could get over to look at it for him. He is not in a great rush to let it go. I am letting the Buick enthusiasts know early about this in the desire to help this fellow find a good home for the car. I am not the most computer literate person out there, I am just a lowly toolmaker and machinist, but, I can provide digital photos to interested persons once I see the car and get photographs. The car is a STANDARD model and is a very good looking late twenties Buick complete with golf bag door he tells me. I will let the forum know when photos can be obtained. The asking price on the car is yet to be determined. Terry Wiegand terrywiegand@prodigy.net Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672
  16. Just to keep everyone on the straight and narrow - there were no Standard and Master Series models for the 1924 Buick Model year. The Standard and Master Series started with the 1925 Buick models. I have a very original 1922 Model 48 that was sold new in Springfield, Massachusetts. The car spent its entire life in New England area until 2002. I am very familiar with Buick's model 48. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  17. AussiePhil and Mark, I believe I heard someone mention once that the material in the quadrant rub block was soapstone. Mark is right in that there is a little spring keeping pressure against the quadrant edge. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America 1916 Model D-45 1920 Model K-46 1922 Model 22-6-48
  18. I just got the July issue of the Bugle a few days ago and I will swear to the good Lord that I read where Paul Meyer was going to be our BCA President for the next year. I remember my Dad telling me on many an occasion that we have the finest politicians that money can buy. It sounds like the political crap has invaded the BCA. What a shame - I just want Pete to keep writing great stories about teens and twenties Buicks. Opinions are like #$@holes - everybody has one and I would like to state mine on here. Why in God's name would ANYBODY want this Rick Young character back in a position of power and influence? Doesn't anyone remember the BCA meet of 2008? There was a chance to collaborate with the Vintage Chevrolet Club and have a spectacular 100th Anniversary of General Motors Celebration. It was told to me that this guy single-handedly put the skid on that idea. What a mental giant! Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 1916 Model D-45 1920 Model K-46 1922 Model 22-6-48
  19. Boy, you guys are SHARP out there tonight. Good catch on that posting date, Roberta. Maybe he didn't sell it back then and decided to run the ad again. I'm just guessing about that though. I replied to another posting response by Mr. Easley and picked up his phone number in this one so I will contact him soon. The gentleman from Montana states that the model number on the floorboard is K-44. This tells me that the remains are from a 1920 model. The 1920 K models were the last year for the lettered series cars and there were not that many parts from the 1916 and 1920 models that will interchange. Just in case this ad has been reposted - I am interested in the key that he says is in the ignition switch, or, the whole round switch assembly. Terry Wiegand Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  20. Forrest, I am glad that you guys are paying close attention to the details. I also have a 1916 D-45 (early in production of this model). The intake and exhaust valves were the same diameter thru the end of the 1917 model year. The intake valve increased in diameter in the 1918 models, and since I have a 1920 and a 1922 model and since they stayed the same sizes through the end of the 1923 model production, and since I am going to make a new set for the '22, I thought I would go ahead and make up several sets for those who might need them. I am very curious as to how a spanner wrench could work in this particular application? Could you possibly post a photo or two? We need to get you introduced to Dean Tryon who puts out the 1915 - 1918 Buick McLaughlin Newsletter. Send me a PM with your email address and phone number and we can visit about the newsletter and our 1916's. By the way, Buicks and caged valves go back to day one. Terry Wiegand Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  21. The cage puller was designed and built by the Buffum Tool Company of Louisiana, Missouri (on the Mississippi River). The swastika originally was an Indian symbol for Good Luck. Quite a few companies used this symbol in their advertising. The most memorable was The Waterloo Gasoline Engine Company, Waterloo, Iowa. They built the 'Waterloo Boy' farm tractor which evolved into the first John Deere, two-cylinder tractor. Indeed, the swastika has quite a long history behind it. And, by the way, the little tool works perfectly on stubborn cages. Terry Wiegand
  22. I am setting up to make intake cage nuts (#36020) and exhaust cage nuts (#36040) for the 1918 thru 1923 Buick Six-Cylinder engine. I am using 12L14 material and the cost will be $45.00 per nut or $540.00 for the complete set of 12. This seems to be a weak spot in the caged-valve valvetrain and they always get chewed up because of a punch being used for tightening or removal. I can also supply the proper tool for installation and/or removal. Contact me for any questions you may have. Can furnish references from those I have built parts for. Parts are being machined to Buick Factory Engineering Specifications. Terry Wiegand Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  23. THE RIMS HAVE BEEN SOLD. SORRY FOR THE DELAY IN GETTING THIS POSTED. TERRY WIEGAND DOO DAH AMERICA (KANSAS)
  24. ARE THE RIM BOLTS YOU ARE USING 1/2" THREAD? BUICK USED TWO SIZES OF RIM BOLTS ON THE BAKER-WHEELED CARS - 1/2" and 9/16". I HAVE WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR IN THE 1/2" SIZE. SEND ME A PM. TERRY WIEGAND PHONE/FAX - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  25. TJDV, IF YOU WILL CONTACT ME THROUGH PERSONAL EMAIL, I CAN HELP YOU OUT WITH A VERY GOOD CONDITION, CAST ALUMINUM, MANIFOLD FOR YOUR D-45. I HAVE A GOOD CONDITION CYLINDER BLOCK FOR THE SAME ENGINE. CALL OR EMAIL ME AND WE CAN DISCUSS WHAT YOU NEED. TERRY WIEGAND DOO DAH AMERICA (KANSAS) PHONE/FAX - (620) 665-7672 terrywiegand@prodigy.net
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