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Terry Wiegand

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Everything posted by Terry Wiegand

  1. While rebuilding the engine for my 1916 I made a new water pump/starter/generator shaft using stainless material. I had a good friend up in McPherson run the shaft through the centerless grinder for me. We ended up with a surface finish of RMS 5 or less. It looks like it has been chrome plated and polished. When assembling the engine I used Graphite Impregnated Packing. I had made new packing nuts and the car has set all Winter with the Anti-Freeze in the radiator and block and there has not been so much as a hint of seepage and/or leakage anywhere on the engine. I have not started the engine for the first time yet. Time will tell once it has a few hours running behind it. I will not be surprised if I have to do a little tweaking on the nuts once the packing seats onto the shaft. Otherwise I do not expect any seepage at all. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  2. There was a 1914 Cadillac 5-Passenger Touring that folks from Amarillo, Texas brought up. An absolutely beautiful, and BIG car. They were driving it around on the grounds for a while. This was the last year for the 4-Cylinder engine for Cadillac and it ran like a fine watch. I and several others got to see the engine running while they were parked for a bit. And of course I didn't have the camera with me then. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  3. There was also a nice 1916 Buick radiator assembly leaning up against the trailer tongue right across from Coker's trailer. Both sides of the core looked really nice and the hose connection tubes were really nice also. The bottom front side of the shell was rusted out and $150.00 was written on it. As Pete said there was a lot of Buick stuff if a person knew what they were looking for. A very good meet and a good time was had by all. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  4. When you are standing in front of the car looking toward the rear axle, the water pump shaft turns in the same direction as the crankshaft (clockwise). The packing nut on the front side of the pump housing is right-hand threaded. The packing nut on the back side of the pump housing is left-hand threaded (counter clockwise). The nuts were threaded this way so as to have the tendency to always want to tighten while the engine was running. You can get the packing material from Restoration Supply in several different sizes. The 1/8" inch material is about ideal for these pumps. The idea is to slightly overwrap the shaft and the nut will squeeze things into the place where it needs to be. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  5. The 'usual suspects' showed up at noon for the annual Pre-War Buick Gathering. The Meet was very well attended and everyone was happy to see their friends. Being cooped up from the Covid crap and the cold weather has really played havoc with folks being able to congregate and talk about their projects and visit with their friends. Someone said that Susie Ersland signed up 35 new, first time swap meet vendors. All in all, the meet was well attended under the circumstances. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  6. Ken, Larry DiBarry and I talked about this very issue earlier this evening. Cleaning up the rear axle assembly for my '16 D-45 is the last thing left to do before it goes back up under the car. I'm taking it to my John Deere dealership for high pressure washing with a strong grease cutting agent added. I want to drain the rear axle oil and check out the gears before adding the new oil. I asked his opinion about how much goes in. He told me to stick my 'pointer finger' in the fill hole and that when I touch the oil that should be enough. This makes good sense to me because I believe you might have an over-filled condition from what you have described. I have great condition brake lining on the axle and the Good Lord knows what oil and/or grease does to brake lining material. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  7. Bob, if you will go to the AND THEN THERE WERE THREE topic and go to page 11, you will see the photos that I posted while cleaning up the transmission case. There are several real good photos looking at the rear of the case. I am just not real sure what you are referring to, so you will have to be the judge as to whether we have the same features on our cases. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  8. There is something that I would like to relate about the transmission that is in this car we have. My son-in-law helped me get it off the back of the engine and out from under the car. When we got it out in the open and into the light of the day, his first words were, "this thing looks like it came out of a ton and a half truck". When looking at things up close it was amazing that there were still tooling marks in the gear teeth. When I drained the case before removing it, what came out didn't look all that bad. With the clutch cone still in place, the bearings were smooth and quiet when rotating the input shaft. All I did was flush the case very thoroughly with Kerosene. Once everything went back together I used 600W Lubriplate SPO-299 Gear Oil and I added 1 tablespoon of #2 Flake Graphite before I closed the case back up. Sometimes a person gets lucky with one of these old automobiles and I believe that I have had more than my share of good fortune with this restoration. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  9. Bob, you said that the transmission is from a 1918 model. This would have a Cast Iron transmission case? My early 1916 D-45 has a very good-sized Cast Aluminum case. I am not sure when the switch was made from Aluminum to Cast Iron with the D-Series models. Is your 1917 transmission case Cast Iron? Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  10. Good luck with that, Bob. Since you have a 1917 engine there are twice as many to deal with. When I went through the valve train on my engine I used a small punch and pried them out. I then made new caps out of Brass and put new felt in the cavities. I think I got the felt from Hobby Lobby. I used a leather punch to stamp the small pieces out. The old felt pieces were really gummed up. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  11. Hugh, I am not calling you out - I was simply trying to point out that the cap in the photo is not for a 1923 Buick Six engine. I see where carmover set the record straight in telling us that he has a 1922 engine in his 1923 car. That certainly clears up a lot of questions and explanations as to what fits what. I'm going to be gluing linoleum onto running boards tomorrow morning and I am going to let you guys figure this thing out and I'll read about it after it is all over. I still think it could be the condenser. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  12. Hugh, The Distributor Cap in the photo that Tom posted will not fit a 1923 Buick Six. That particular cap was used on the 1916 thru 1920 Light Six. 1921 and 1922 were the same with 1922 being the last year for Delco threaded post caps on a Buick Six. I am not trying to be a wiseguy here - a person who is not thoroughly familiar with Buick ignition parts could possibly see that photo and think that this is what is needed for carmover's engine when in actuality a 1923 Buick Six used a single piece molded distributor cap. I have a 1916, 1920, (these two use the cap that is shown) and a 1922 Buick. With that said, I am pretty familiar with what goes on these cars. I am not picking on Tom because he is as sharp as they come on these old ignition parts. I think that he might have made a typo in his posting. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  13. Mark, How can he account for it running OK, shutting the engine off and then it will not run? There is something going on here that is just not obvious. I'm still leaning toward the condenser if the cap checks out OK from a continuity test. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  14. I wouldn't put the bad mouth on Tom - I know him and he is a friend of mine. I am referring to parts that come from Napa, O'Reilly's, and AutoZone. Just about everything that these guys peddle is non-American made and there lies the problem. From what you are saying here you are going to have to check every piece with a Multi Meter for continuity and rule out each and every piece as you go. I am not an electrical genius, but when you get to a point where the current stops, it sorta makes sense to me that may be where the problem lies. Condensers are not a high dollar item. If I were in your shoes I'd buy a half dozen of them and try each one until you find one that works. Take the unneeded ones back for a refund. A lot less aggravation going that route. It sorta sounds like you are between that proverbial rock and a hard spot. What you really need to do here is shake ol' Jim Beam's hand, have a couple of good shots and get a good night's sleep and start anew with a fresh day. You absolutely have to have the mindset that that old Buick ain't gonna whip you. If you throw up your hands and holler - it wins and you lose. There's a bug under the chip somewhere and you just ain't found it yet. If each and every piece in your wiring system checks OK for continuity, I'd put my money on the condenser. Keep us posted. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  15. You also might want to check out the distributor cap. If you have a Multi-Meter you might want to check for continuity on ALL of the wire positions. I'd check the condenser also. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  16. Here are a few photos of the fenders after they left the paint shop. I simply cannot say enough good words about the work that Mike Kleeves and his guys did on all four of the fenders for us. The one photo shows the bottom side of the one front fender. They finished it to to look sorta like an undercoated surface. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  17. bj, Here is the contact information that you asked about. Automobile Metal Shaping Company 60 North Airport Drive Kimball, Michigan 48074 Phone - (810) 364-4244 Fax - (810) 364-4245 Mike Kleeves is the person to speak with. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  18. bj, I will get the contact information to you as soon as I can. You asked if it was reasonable. Considering the hours that they had in with these fenders and what they did, I will not grouch about the cost. I tend to look at it this way - they are better than what left the factory on the car. That old saying, 'You Get What You Pay For' is so very true in this situation. No excuses and nothing to apologize for here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  19. Brian and Mark, Is this a problem that is common only to the 1923 models? I have the rear axle assembly out from under the car now, should I be checking this area over real close for any problems like what has been described here? IF there should be any concerns, it would seem that this would be the time to look things over very closely. Please advise. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  20. Could you please post some photos of the whole car for us. What we see here looks very interesting and nice. I have a 1920 Closed Bodied Buick also. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  21. Chuck, you are absolutely right, I forgot to add the most important detail. The Meet is March 19 and 20. The Buick folks will get together at High Noon on Friday, the 19th. Chuck, we hope that you folks down in Texas have thawed out so that you can come up and join us. Susie told me that she thinks this is going to be a well attended Meet. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  22. I spoke with Susie Ersland earlier today and got the official word that the Chickasha Swap Meet is on. This posting is to let all of the Early Buick Enthusiasts know that we will meet at High Noon at our usual meeting spot, otherwise known as Steve Hammatt's space. It's been two years since all of us Buick friends have seen each other and I for one am ready to get out of the house and back on the road for a little travelin'. I also am really glad that the dangerously cold weather seems to be behind us now. As that old saying goes - 'Be There or Be Square'. Terry Wiegand Out in Warmer Doo Dah
  23. Joe, Thanks for this information. We are 180 miles from Kansas City and could take the wheels up to them quite easily. Will keep you posted about this project. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  24. I have a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 1/2 ton that I ordered brand new. It has the Aluminum Alloy wheels that were common to these trucks. Does anyone know if there is any business that can polish these wheels? The new Chevy trucks have bright polished cast wheels. I would like to have the wheels on this truck look like the new ones do. This truck has been carefully maintained and cared for. The wheels are in as new condition. Thanks for any help sent this way. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  25. The BAKER wedge in the above photo is exactly like what is on my 1916 D-45. They ARE different from the other wedges. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
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