Terry Wiegand

Bryan, I cannot argue with you about the paint or how it was put on. I am not a body and paint person. I am just a lowly Tool and Die Maker. All that I can and will say is that the paint on this truck looks like Hell and it started turning crappy after about 2 years of ownership. I will be sure and post some photos of the truck after Reggie gets done with it. I am not a Ford guy per se, but the fellow who is going to restore my truck has a 1969 Mustang Mach 1 that is the reddest Red that I have ever seen with the Gold striping. The finish looks just like wet glass. That Horse Car is to die for. He tells me that my Silverado will look just like that - only Black. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

I need to explain what my questions are all about. I have a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab truck that I ordered new. This truck was a tad under $17,500.00 at the time. It has absolutely no rust, no dents or dings, and has never been driven in snow. There are a little over 113,000 miles on the clock and it still has the plastic covering on the back seat from the factory. The base coat/clear coat paint is horrible on this vehicle. We are going to have it restored and use single stage paint on it. I have been gathering Genuine GM parts and pieces for several years and have everything to set it back to brand new. The very last part I needed was the grille. The one in the truck is very nice with the exception being some plating flaking. The Parts Manager at our local Chevrolet Dealer has been helping me out. Two weeks ago he gave me a list of 11 dealers that had this grille still in stock. I was able to buy a brand new (still in the box grille) from a dealership in North Dakota for what I think is a very reasonable price. I ended up getting the very last one of these things in captivity. Talk about the luck of the Irish and I'm not Irish. Several friends have given me a hard time about doing what I'm going to do with this truck. "You need to upgrade to at least a 2018 or newer and you will be so much happier with it" I don't think so. I have a friend who has a 2023, 1 Ton, Crew Cab, DuraMax Diesel, Allison Transmission, 4-Wheel Drive with a price tag of over $82,000.00 and he is having all kinds of issues with it. I absolutely love this truck and it does, and will do everything that I will ever need it to do for me. I am going to hang on to the original grille in case someone out there would desperately need one. I will post some photos on here when the truck is finished. There is one more thing that we think is pretty cool. Our 1916 Buick was built in the calendar year of 1915. Our truck was built in the calendar year of 1995. Having two General Motors vehicles built 80 years apart is a really neat thing for us. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

The part that I am concerned with is the chrome plated plastic grille in my 1995 Chevrolet Silverado truck. GM produced these trucks by the 100's of thousands and they sourced this particular part from an outside vendor. What I want to know is this - who made these grilles for Chevrolet? The grille in my truck is in perfect condition, however, some of the plating is flaking off in certain areas. If it is at all possible I would like to contact this company and see if they could strip and replate the grille for me. This seems like a reasonable request to me. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

Please see the posting in Pre-War Buicks about the show. We drove the '16 up to McPherson and when we got back home there were 60 more miles on the clock. It just ran beautifully. Between 30 and 35 miles per hour is where this car seems really happy. I got it up to almost 40 once on the Red Flag Tour and that really seemed like it was pushing it hard. These old cars were just not designed to be driven that fast and then the roads back in the day weren't that great either. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

I am going to post this in the Buick Pre-War area because it seems like everybody gets on the Pre-War sites. We had our '16 D-45 there for the first time ever. There was an article in The Hutchinson News early last week saying that they were expecting 400+ vehicles at this show. When we left we heard that that figure was surpassed. It was a beautiful day (91 degrees was on the warm side) and I never saw so many people at this show before. GM had three cars at the show this year. They had the LeSabre, a three-wheeled experimental vehicle, and a 2024 electric car of some model. People stayed away from that in droves. There were three old vehicles that were crowd favorites. There was a 1937 Cord Model 812 that was a truly beautiful automobile, a 1935 Duesenberg Roadster, and a 1930 Cadillac V-16 that had a constant crowd around it the whole time we were there. Barbara said that she heard people talking about the color on that Cadillac - no one had ever seen a Cadillac with that color of paint before. The car was brought in from a private collection in California. It is owned by the Singleton Collection and the car is a very unusual model. The color is listed as Smoke Gray, it has wooden spoked wheels, and instead of having spare tires in the fender wells, it had dual spares mounted on the rear. It was sold new in New Jersey and had a delivered price of almost $6,000.00 back in 1930. All in all this was a fantastic show and with so many folks on the grounds it was a real challenge to get some decent photos. I did my best. We drove the '16 up from home and when we got back to the shop there was almost 60 miles on the clock. The car just ran like a dream on the drive. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

Does anyone out there know of a company that does chrome plating on plastic material? This is not an uncommon procedure. The automotive industry has been doing this for years. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

I hate to rain on your parade, but you are going about this all wrong. You need to have a competent and capable automotive machine shop prepare the cylinder block for the new pistons. Ed gave you great advice about using Ross Aluminum Pistons. There is a big difference between the original cast iron pistons and aluminum pistons with regard to piston to cylinder wall clearances. The automotive machine shop should prepare the cylinders so that they are round, straight, and uniform in size. You then go to Ross and tell them what you need in regard to outside diameter. Once you have the pistons in hand the cylinder block can be finish bored so that the proper cylinder wall clearances can be maintained. It is extremely important that the machine shop uses their micrometers and cylinder bore gauges to measure everything. If things are not done in this manner you are going to have a screwed up costly mess. I know what I am talking about because I have been down this road not too long ago with rebuilding the engine in our 1916 D-45. Our engine has Ross pistons and the engine runs absolutely perfect. You are basically going to have just one chance at doing this right - don't screw it up by trying to do it yourself. There is a lot more to rebuilding an engine like this than meets the eye. Listen to what you are being told here. You will need to send one of your original cast iron pistons out to Ross so that they can make the new ones based on the original design specifications. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

I met Bill at a Buick Meet in Flint, Michigan just a few months after he had finished the restoration on his 1917 D-45. He also took that car to West Lafayette, Indiana to show it to the late Dave Chambers. This was just before Dave passed away. He really got a kick out of doing that for Dave and they both had a ton of fun together. I really never got to know Bill as well as I would have liked to. He was a really fine gentleman and we had quite a few conversations about his going through that '17. Rest Easy My Friend Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

Ed, we had Schnauzers in the house when our daughter was growing up. They were wonderful little beings and Mary loved them dearly. Then Miss Muggins, our Coal Black Scottie came to live with us. She is without any doubts the smartest pup that we have ever been around. We know exactly what you are feeling and going through. It just tears your heart out when something happens to one of God's precious creatures. We could write a book about her antics in our home. Glad to hear that you will be having another one come live with you. Terry and Barbara Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Members #947918

The 1916 and 1917 6-Cylinder models had the sight gauge on the dashboard with the little wheel inside to show that oil was being circulated from the oil pump. I am not sure what the 1918 and 1919 models used, but our 1920 has an oil pressure gauge. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

Terry, perhaps I should explain about the plug boxes in my photo. They are all the same as far as the graphics go. They are all imprinted with AC on the one end. The lower lengthwise box is just turned 90 degrees to show how the sides were imprinted. The small wording in the upper right hand corner reads as follows - Patented April 13, 1915 and Patented November 15, 1910. I'm sorry that I did not spell that out in my initial posting. At any rate, they are a really old and unusual spark plug box. Thanks for your educated information. History sure is interesting to say the least. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

There IS one on our 1916 D-45 Buick. My Dad passed away before I had the chance to ask him for the key. Our local locksmith had to contact an old time locksmith in Kansas City who had the books that went back far enough for the key code. Once we had that the outer spare tire and rim could be removed. I have watched for a HURD key blank and so far nothing has turned up. If you have the original key for yours, is it Brass like I suspect it is? Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

I asked the guys at Abrahams Machine when they were rebuilding the 16's engine just how they would go about balancing the rotating assembly. The answer I got sure was not what I was expecting. They told me that a straight 6 really doesn't need any balancing because of the firing order and the weight in the engine's flywheel. They knew what they were talking about because that engine runs so unbelievably smooth. Another thing that just blows me away is that when I step on the gas it is almost immediate acceleration and I am thinking that the 45+ pound flywheel has a lot to do with that also. As they told me - if it ain't broke, don't go tryin' to fix it. Works for me. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

It is a Duplex Spare Tire Carrier. They were made by the Tripp-Secord Company in Detroit. They were made in several versions to accommodate different wheel rim sizes. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

Somehow I do not think that this is for a Willys-Knight. I owned a 1928 Model 56 Willys-Knight for going on 33 years. It came from the factory with a Tillotson Model SP-2B carburetor on the engine. In the course of all those years of ownership I did manage to learn a thing or two about WK automobiles. Tillotson Carburetors seemed to be the engineers' choice for their engines. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

The 'standard item right from the factory' on our 1916 Buick D-45 is identical to what Dandy Dave posted in his photos. The difference being from Dave's 4-Cylinder car and our 6-Cylinder model is that the Six will talk to you pretty good when the cutout is opened up. There is a noticeable difference with the cutout open and a person really steps on the gas - it will get up and go since the back pressure is releived. An early day attempt at performance enhancement. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

We thought you might enjoy seeing what we did with this very nice original piece of sheet music about 30 years ago. It is copyrighted 1913. Had not seen this before we got it and have never seen one like it since. Picked this up in an antique shop on the Door County Peninsula in Wisconsin in the late 1980's. I have always loved the colors and that car looks like it's doin' 90 miles an hour just setting there. Terry and Barbara Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Members #947918

Terry, you might remember seeing our 1916 D-45 Buick at East Moline last Summer. The engine has a New Old Stock set of these AC Titans in it. I bought about 19 or 20 of these old plugs from a fellow in Arizona who was retired from AC Delco and was a serious spark plug collector. Our Buick was built in the calendar year of 1915 and these AC Titans were what was in the car when it left Flint. There are a lot of interesting plug boxes shown in this thread, however, I didn't see any like the ones I have. What can you tell me about a possible time frame for these plugs? I have nine of these boxes and they are all in about this same condition and I do want to hang onto them. This has been a really interesting thread and I have learned a lot on here. Thanks for any information that you can share with everyone on here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

Ben, it's the first Saturday in May - the 6th I believe. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

I put a few miles on the car Sunday and it runs just beautifully. I am so thankful that this problem showed up on the driveway and not going down the road at 30 - 35 miles per hour. It could have been horrible with what could have happened internally to the engine. As I have said before, the Good Lord looks after drunks and the less fortunate. We are really looking forward to the McPherson College Car Show. There will be some absolutely awesome vehicles there. Photos will be posted on the forums. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

I put a few miles on the car this afternoon. It is running just perfectly. Sure am glad to see that sight gauge wheel spinning. I want to get quite a few more miles on it before we drive it up to McPherson. Ed and I had quite a conversation the other day. He put into words exactly what I have been thinking all along - these old cars are not oil tight. They seep, drip. slobber. and ooze oil from it seems like everywhere. My Dad always told me that if there was not any oil seeping from these old machines that I had better be finding out why. Great advice. We hope everyone had a wonderful Easter. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

We're about 45 miles from Wichita, Kansas and we get over there quite often. We listen to an AM station with the call letters of KFDI because they specialize in the old time country music like we grew up on. Another great benefit to this AM station is that the ambulance-chasing, dirtbag lawyers do not advertise on this station. When that starts she will sing to me on the ride over. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

Ed and I talked about the sealer that I used and HOW I applied it. It is Permatex Super "300" Sealant Liquid. It is safe to use where synthetic oils, lubricants, and automatic transmission fluids would be in contact with it. This stuff never hardens and the way I applied it it will have very minimal oozing, if any, into the gears pocket area. We think that everything is going to be OK with the way that I did things. This just goes to show that there is always something to learn when working with 100+ year old automobiles. I am very thankful that we have persons like Ed on here to impart critical knowledge about these old machines. The thing now is to try and drive the wheels off it. Thanks Ed. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

I am going to try this with the video that my daughter shot for me. I put a little fuel into the vacuum tank and the engine fired on the second try after setting since last December. When you watch this short video please keep in mind that the engine is still cold and hasn't had the chance to warm up yet. The extremely important thing here is that the oil pump is circulating the oil like it is supposed to. I believe that the problem has been taken care of and the car should be ready for hundreds and hundreds of trouble free miles going forward. I am just so thankful that this was caught without any damage to the engine. https://youtu.be/OqBhMy73Fe8 I think that the video can be seen by clicking on the link. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918

As promised here are a couple of photos of the oil pump body installed into the oil pan. I am here to tell that being on a creeper, holding a camera, and trying to keep from falling off the creeper is not high on my list of things that I am just jumping up and down to do. I think I got a couple of pretty decent photos under all of the circumstances. Tomorrow is the day that everything gets buttoned up and the oil is poured into the pan. I used Permatex Sealer on both sides of the gasket and I will get things cleaned up tomorrow with Denatured Alcohol. I am going to use a small bead of silicone on the bottom of the pump housing to seal the plate to the pump. I am happier than three jaybirds in a mulberry patch over how the drive spring fits into everything. We got the spring application into the drive and driven shaft ends just darn near perfect. I simply just do not know how this got overlooked and past the assembly stage. I will never know, but it did and it has been fixed correctly. I cannot say thank you enough to Ed for his part in the fix. He did a wonderful job with the screen. We are shooting for Sunday afternoon to hear the engine run again. We might do a video if we can. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918