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Terry Wiegand

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Everything posted by Terry Wiegand

  1. I guess I am still missing something here. The one gentleman states that it is different in every state. He is absolutely correct on that. Kansas is a mandatory liability insurance state and we are also a no-fault state. Another gentleman states that is what you pay your premiums for - to let the insurance companies work things out. That statement is wrong and I will have to disagree with it. Automobile liability insurance is not for the vehicle it is for the driver of the vehicle. To put this another way, if a driver runs a red light and tears up another vehicle and/or hurts another person, that driver's insurance company foots the bill for the damages - end of the story right there. The only way that Larry's insurance should have to spend one cent would be if the other driver did not have liability coverage and only then would Larry's uninsured motorist coverage come into play. Since it sounds like the other guy has insurance coverage, then it becomes that guy's insurance company problem. In Kansas a person has to show proof of liability insurance in order to get a vehicle registered and get license plates for the vehicle. I simply am not understanding why Larry's insurance company needs to be involved in any way with this. He has a valid driver license, the car is properly registered, he has the required liability insurance coverage, and he did not violate any motor vehicle operating rules and/or regulations. He did not cause the problem and in the eyes of the law he is as pure as the driven snow. I am not understanding why anyone would think that Larry's insurance should have to pay anything to anybody in this situation. He should just set back and be ready to endorse the check for the damage. Again, Larry and Joannie are our friends and we are so very thankful that they did not get hurt. I think that this is all that I am going to say about this. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  2. I guess I'm having a problem seeing this situation being handled. I am very thankful that Larry and Joannie were not hurt in the wreck. That is not to say that they might not have some health related issues in the future from the incident. What I do not understand is since the other guy caused the damage why should Larry's insurance carrier have to pay out one single cent. The other guy is clearly at fault so it is payup time for his carrier. Maybe Pennsylvania law is different than Kansas law in a situation like this. I would really not want to see Larry take a big hit on the loss of his car. All he will have to do if the insurance tries to lowball him is say, "my attorney will be in touch and we will see you in court". The mention of an attorney generally gets their attention pretty quick. Here in Kansas we have these 'ambulance chasing car wreck lawyers' that thrive on deals like this. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  3. This might be considered a little off topic but I'm gonna mention it anyway. Back in the late 1950's and early 1960's there was a fellow from over in Illinois who really set the drag racing world on fire. His name is Arnie Beswick. He campaigned Super Duty Pontiacs and Arnie 'The Farmer' Beswick was a terror on the drag strip. He raced for many years racking up some impressive numbers with his Pontiacs. You might ask just what this has to do with my Buick engine. It has a lot to do with my old engine. Tighe Halloway at Abraham's Machine has done a tremendous amount of engine work for Arnie Beswick over the years and he built my engine for me. I have a lot of confidence in these folks and this engine will get straightened out and we hope to have this car on the road sooner than later. Go on Wikipedia and check out Arnie Beswick. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  4. Brian, Yes, Abrahams gave me a detailed build sheet two pages long. Headway is being made as I write this. The rear axle is out from under the car, radiator and hood have been removed to a safe place, the front fenders are in the basement. I want to have the transmission ready to drop by Sunday afternoon. The plan is to have the engine in the back of the truck when we are at the Red Flag Tour and drop it off in Davenport on the way back home. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  5. Larry, It is not at all simple like you think it is. I hate it that this happened, but it is what it is. If indeed it is a cam bearing issue or a failed piston, the engine will have to come out. I'm going to pull the engine and take it up to them. I tried my hardest to do this right the first time and looking back I succeeded at every turn. This is not something that I personally did wrong - something failed internally and it is going to be corrected. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  6. I know that this sounds like a lot of work again and it is. I cannot turn the engine over using the hand crank and at this point I am very hesitant to do anything with it other than get it pulled and back up to them. IF this is a cam bearing issue, protecting the gearset is of utmost importance. What I am going to say next is strictly my thoughts about things. IF it turns out to be a cam bearing issue, I am thinking that they might pull the rods and pistons and go back in and hone the cylinders to open them up just a wee bit more. As I said this is just my thought. The camshaft that is in the engine now was sent down to Competition Cams in Memphis to be checked over. They Magnafluxed it to check for any cracks or fissures. It was checked for straightness, the bearings were checked for roundness and they micro-polished it for me. When it came back to me it looked like a brand new shaft. I know that one and possibly two bearings were made new. I cannot say anything about the others because I am not exactly sure what was done at the time. What I can say is that Competition Cams pronounced the shaft to be in excellent condition for being over 100 years old. I do not like this any more than anyone else, but nevertheless, it happened and it is going to have to be dealt with. I'm going with Ed's thought - let's hope it is an easy fix. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  7. What the dickens does the man's shirt have to do with anything? Sheesh! Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #948917
  8. The cylinders were bored .030" oversize to cleanup the out-of-round, slight taper and get them all uniform in size. We went with Ross aluminum pistons that were fitted to the block for the proper piston/wall clearance. At this point it is just a guess as to what happened. The shop wants to be the ones to open the engine up and see what happened. I simply do not have a clue about what went on internally. These guys are really good and they will get to the bottom of things. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  9. Mark, It's not quite that simple. Abrahams doesn't have facilities for a lift nor a place to store the car. Remember, this is a caged valve engine with a single piece cylinder block. Yes, I am almost to the point of being physically sick over what has happened. The folks at Abrahams have asked for me to bring the engine back up to them without opening anything up. I am perfectly fine with that. We all want to know just what happened and try to figure out the why. I know it's a lot of work to go through again, but it was done the first time and it can be done again with a lot of knowledge gained from the first go around. I am going to drain the fluids and slowly and carefully start the disassembly process. Everyone will know what went on when we get to that point. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  10. I'm getting ready to drain the coolant and the oil. Going to have a spotless clean bucket to drain the oil into and look it over very carefully for anything that should not be there. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  11. Well, this is certainly not the posting that I wanted to make today and I'm sure it's not what folks were looking forward to hearing. The engine is going to have to come back out of the car and be taken back up to Abrahams Machine Service in Davenport, Iowa. I had the engine running yesterday afternoon and it almost seized up. The starter will turn it, but barely. I have been in contact with Dave and Tighe and they have the details as to what exactly happened. Tighe tells me that his 'educated guess' is that there might have been an air bubble in the coolant that caused a cylinder, or cylinders to get hot and stick the piston(s). He also told me that when he built the engine he set the rod and main bearings a tad bit looser since they are a poured Babbitt material. We talked about my running the big drill motor on the crank to prime the oil pump before the initial startup. He told me that that was the smartest thing a person could do in that situation. He doesn't think that this is a bearing failure. I was very mindful about the oil pump operation as well as how the coolant was inserted into the radiator. I am thinking back about how much effort and time was involved in setting this engine back together and I am just about sick at the thought of having to do it all over again. I am trying really hard to see some bright spots and there are a few. The rear axle assembly has been gone through and will not have anything that needs to be done to it. The transmission assembly has been thoroughly gone through and cleaned leaving nothing more to be done to it. The front fenders, hood, and radiator will be removed again. The steering gear assembly will have to come back out to remove the engine again. Common sense tells me that since I have gone through all of this before the second time should go easier and smoother since I have experience at it. Dave has told me that all I need to worry about is getting the engine back up to them and that they will take it from there. They stand behind their work and that I have no worries whatsoever about that. We will keep everyone up to date on the situation as best we can. Not the best way to start the week off. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  12. Mark, Did you use the screen door springs on the back side to hold the cover on to the tire? Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  13. Neil, I don't want to get into that. I tried it - it worked - I told him it worked - now, it's time (way past time) to get things set so that the car can start to be driven. I'm on the hunt for a Dwell Meter. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  14. I'm finding out just how ignorant I am about this automobile at this point in time. I last sat in the driver's seat over 45 years ago. It was an entirely different machine back then. What worked back then will not be the same as today. Yes, I still know how to drive it, but getting it to the point of doing that is going to take some education on my part. I am thankful that there are guys out there who will help me get it adjusted right so that it can be taken down the road. You have heard me say that I could write a book about what I have learned during this restoration. After today it became clear that there are a few more chapters to be added. Mark Shaw is going to walk me through the fine points of getting the carburetor adjusted. I owe Larry Schramm, Larry DiBarry, Hugh Leidlein, and Ed Minnie a whole bunch of Thank Yous for their help. Hearing that engine run again this afternoon was what I was really needing to happen. Morgan Wright gets the Gold Star for today for putting on the forum that it takes more than 3/4 of a turn on the idle jet screw. He was right - it worked and there is where my education is beginning from. Thanks Morgan, you just made my day. I talked to my daughter this evening and when the time is right she is going to help with the video. I just want to get the carburetor adjusted to the point that the engine runs well and that the car can be driven. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  15. Here is some very good late news. I took Morgan Wright's advice on opening up the idle jet to at least 1 1/2 turns and the engine started and ran right away. I left the choke completely alone and set the hand throttle about 3/4 of the way open to give it more air. It ran pretty good, but make no mistakes here, it needs to be adjusted on the air valve and once I have it to the point where it will stay running steady, the timing light needs to be used to get the timing where it needs to be. I can now take back everything that I said about the carburetor. I am very glad that Larry and Ed walked me through the diagnostic testing on the electrical system. I know that things are working as they should in that area. I know that it is going to take a little bit of time to get things set at the ideal spot, but I feel like a huge step has been taken. I want to say that Morgan Wright called it on this one. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  16. I have some more news to report. Got the compression tester this morning and went to work. Cylinders #2 through #6 checked between 65 and 70 lbs. Cylinder #1 did not register. I slid the rocker arms over and tapped both valve stems with a brass hammer. I did this after running some of the break-in crankcase oil down the stems. I will say that I feel like it was the exhaust valve that was hanging up a bit. There was way more than the .010" clearance between the stem and the rocker arm. After the tapping it felt more like it should with the .010" lash. After running through all of the electrical possibilities I really felt like that stepping on the starter would result in a running engine. It did not happen. I feel extremely safe in saying that the problem is in the carburetor. I held my hand over the intake on the carburetor while the boss stepped on the starter. I could feel the suction immediately when the engine started turning over. The #1 cylinder was checked again twice with a 65 lb. reading. There is good compression, there is good fire to the plugs, and fuel IS getting to the carburetor. Then WHY won't the engine run? I have had the carburetor off the manifold three times and each time I took the air hose to it inside and out. I can look down the throat of the unit with the idle jet needle removed and it looks as clean as a whistle. I have had the big hex nut fitting on the bottom of the unit that connects the float bowl to the idle jet pickup apart and blasted with high pressure air hoping that if there was something in that passage it would be gone. I am not the kind of person to give up without a fight, but I will say that this has been a helluva fight the last few steps of the way. If anyone can figure out just what is going on here, then you get the Gold Star for the day. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  17. I finally have some good news for a change. After talking with Ed and Larry and following their steps, I feel like a lot of headway was made in just a few hours. For step # 1 the battery checked in at between 6.2 and 6.3 volts. For step # 2 I was able to eliminate the combination switch as a problem as I had the identical voltage at the coil post. For step #3 I was able to determine that the points were functioning as they are supposed to. For step #4 I ran a lead from the coil tower to a spark plug grounded to the cylinder block. My boss said that she felt a pretty good jolt because she had a finger where it wasn't supposed to be. This tells us that the coil is functioning as it should. I do not have a compression tester now, but I will have in the morning. I feel very confident that the electrical side has been checked very well and I do not think the problem is in that part of the engine. The compression test on every cylinder will tell if there is a valve (or valves) hanging up. IF that check turns out OK then I feel very safe in thinking that the carburetor will be the problem. I talked with Larry Schramm just a few moments ago and we are going to run one more check on the distributor cap and rotor. The cap and rotor was checked on two plugs and there was strong fire on both of them. I'm posting a photo of my Multimeter that is being used on these tests. I will be updating this thread as results are known. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  18. The 6-Volt Coil is new. I got it from Brillman's down in Virginia. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  19. Well folks, I'm back again with a different problem. I do not want anyone thinking that I'm just offering up excuses as to why the video hasn't been done. As I reported earlier the engine ran for me on July 10th and 11th. I haven't been able to get it started since. The ignition switch issue made itself known and that was taken care of very well. The float issue came up and I think that this might be on the way to being resolved. It seems that I have been on the phone daily with Larry DiBarry and Hugh Leidlein. Both of these guys are very well versed in Marvel Carburetors. I feel that it is appropriate to let everyone know just what steps I took when putting this engine back together. Rex Curtiss and crew went through the Starter/Generator Unit for me and this thing performs wonderfully. When it came time to install the NOS AC Titan plugs, I checked each and every one with my Multi Meter for continuity on the electrode and they all checked out 100%. When I cut the new plug wires I checked each one for continuity to make sure that there was no opens. They all checked out 100% I checked the NOS Delco Distributor Cap on each post to make sure everything was as it should be and it was. I do not think that the problem is electrical. The engine ran with the new 6-Volt Coil and the new Onan Condenser. I pulled each and every plug this morning and they were all dry. This tells me that fuel is not being drawn into the cylinders. I have tried using some starting fluid with no results. I have followed the suggestions from everyone to close the idle jet on the bottom of the carburetor and open it back up 3/4 of a turn. A little bit of success but not enough to keep the engine running long enough to make any more adjustments. I looked at the timing again this afternoon and it was exactly where I initially set it. I pulled the carburetor off this afternoon and checked the fuel level in the float bowl. I had to tweak the pivot arm to raise the float ever so slight and now I feel like the fuel level is within the 1/16" to 1/8" BELOW the idle jet seat like the Marvel Specifications are calling for. I checked and checked again all of the manifold clamps and nuts holding the clamps and they were all good and tight. I am at the end of my rope here. This thing is simply defying common sense. After looking at everything as I have this engine should start up and run. It did before. I know that there are some very sharp guys out there who may have run up against something like this before and might have the answer. There just has to be something that I am missing here, but for the life of me I cannot find the problem. Please help get this car back on the road where it belongs. I am going to include my phone number on here and even if it's 3 o'clock in the morning, call me and tell me what in the world is going on here with this engine. Thank you for all of your help and suggestions. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Phone - (620) 665-7672 email - renobuickman@gmail.com AACA Life Member #947918
  20. All of these 100 year old automobiles have one whale of a story behind them. That's pretty cool, Mark. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  21. FINALLY, some better news to report. I got the new Nitrophyl float from Gregg Lange on Monday. Got the new machine screws that hold the float and pivot arm together earlier this morning (only needed one but had to spring for a box of 50). Put everything together and got the float back into the bowl. Turned the fuel on and the float did exactly as it was supposed to do. Not a drop of fuel anywhere except in the bowl. I am going to get the engine started in the morning when my other half can be here. Here are some photos showing the progress. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  22. Have they checked with Precision Power in Lansing, Michigan? Rex Curtiss is the person to talk to. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  23. Geoff, Let's hope that somebody on here will chime in and explain the double clutching procedure better than I can. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  24. I'm afraid that I don't understand what you mean by 'changing down' on steeper hills. If you are meaning downshifting, then that should not be any problem at all. As the others have said, you do not want to disturb the rotating mass of the flywheel. This is where the power comes from in the engine. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
  25. Geoff, In reading your posting you said that you found the pistons to be cast iron. I am wondering why whoever rebuilt the engine did not go with Aluminum pistons. Going that route cuts down on the reciprocating weight and in turn is much easier on the rod and main bearings. Since these engines had poured bearings that is a serious consideration to keep in mind. Just my 2 cents here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918
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