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Adam Walkup

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Everything posted by Adam Walkup

  1. I have a picture somewhere, but I took my drivers license test in 1996, driving my 1925 Dodge touring, which I still own.
  2. Paul Dobbin, we were going to stay at the campground, but it is 9 miles from the hotel! Now it turns out we can stay in the trailer parking lot, which is where I will be (with the '11 Locomobile) and my parents (with the White Yellowstone bus) , both of us camping in our buses.
  3. I think I take the oldest car prize so far, my 1925 Dodge touring that my Grandfather bought in the early 70's. I have a picture somewhere of me and the dot man on the big day.
  4. I have looked at them, but what are peoples thoughts of Featherlite vs. ATC vs. InTech???
  5. I'm looking for a new trailer, 20' long, with 8' door for my big brass. Brands are all over the place, but you can get a NICE in tech for around $17,000. Somebody must have some thoughts??
  6. I personally can't disagree more with the not wanting to use "reproduction parts". You don't find original tires, and you don't find original cans of paint, some parts just are better to use new. I have had large brass cars with nice original tops, everything is good, right? Well as soon as you go to put new material on, you decide you should clean up the sockets and repaint them. As soon as you clean them you will find rust holes and slightly bent sockets. Why spend the money to put a new top on old sockets? They have a big job holding up a heavy top as the car rolls down the highway, go ahead and get John to make you a new set, and be done with it. They will be absolutely identical to the original, yet made to the exact specifications you need, and not full of hidden rust to weaken them. Just my 2 cents.
  7. I have a set of 25" wheels I took off my 1911 White when I made the correct 27". They are a matched set of 4 wheels complete with split rims and good tires. Adam Awalkuphcca@hotmail.com
  8. Has anybody heard if Dave's business, specifically the distributor production, will continue? Would love to see somebody take that over and bring back the units the way Dave used to make them.
  9. Our 1911 Locomobile M48 7 pass, photo from the 2013 Glidden
  10. What is another interesting topic that was mentioned early in this thread is what happens several owners down the road, specifically at auctions. My family has collected Stanley Steamers for years. Many of them were "put together" in the 60's -90's, and are now passed off as original cars. I sat at the Hershey auction a few years ago where a known "sweepings" car sold, and there was no mention of it being a fake. I was sitting next to an avid Stanley guy, and he could not believe what was being said (and not being said). Many of these cars have engine and other major components from much later cars of different horsepower etc. I own a 1911 Locomobile 48, which is a very original car, including original interior. Several of these cars have sold at auctions for mega bucks, and were spectacular cars, however I know of one that has sold for big money, with a totally wrong rear body section. It is not obvious how wrong it is until you compare it to the real thing. This year there was a "1914" Locomobile, that was mentioned in the catalog as actually being a 1921, but not mentioned on the stage. A friend of mine tried to buy the car, and luckily did not win the bidding, as he didn't realize it was not a true 1914! At the same sale a 1930 Packard dual cowl phaeton sold, nothing mentioned on the stage. When I inspected the car in the parking lot I realized it was a cut down sedan, and only had a small * on the bottom of the ID tag that said it was not a real phaeton. I'm only 33 years old, but at some point I wonder if I'll be one of the few that knows the true history of some of these cars. Didn't intend to get off subject, if you can build a correct phaeton body for your car, it would definitely be more correct then many of the cars I've mentioned here, and I would think be much more correct on any show field. Why should a car with a new body be any worse then any of the cars mentioned, most of which had AACA senior badges on them, with complete new bodies. Who draws the line, an original metal body with new wood? an early car with an all wood body that is all new? how about a car with original wood, but the aluminum skin was bad and replaced, how about many of the aluminum body Pierce's with recast aluminum?? The bigger question is how correct is the job?
  11. I'm sure it will be used a lot at our house. We have been touring in our 1911 White 40 hp which we have put over 5000 miles on in the last 2 years. We even drove it to the top of Pikes Peak last summer with our 3 year old son in the back seat. We bought the Locomobile so we can start doing some of the longer progressive tours. My only concern is how to preserve the condition of the car, especially the original interior while still using the car. Any suggestions??
  12. Does this lock in the open position, or do you have to hold it down? I am also looking for a quality cut out pedal that will lock open.
  13. In the "steam world" many of the cars that are currently in circulation are total reproductions. I have seen many Stanleys that do not have one piece of original anything, totally built out of either parts, or sometimes today they are built from total reporoductions parts. This was a real car, that was restored in the 1950's, then restored again in the 80's with a new wood body, as the originals start to "sag."
  14. Decided it is time to sell our 1910 Stanley Steamer 10 hp touring. This is one of the easies to operate fun to drive cars you will find, our family has just out grown it. It is an original car, and was on the cover of the Steam Car Club magazine in the 1950's. Was rerestored in the 1980's, and driven very little until we purchased it 5 years ago. It is still very nice, with only minor cosmetic flaws. It has recently had a total engine rebuild with the "beef up" kit making the 10 hp engine almost bullet proof. Also had a complete pump rebuild by John Packard.
  15. We really don't need hook ups, and I HATE waiting in traffic every day to get to the meet. I did stay at High Meadows one year, and liked being on the bus loop, but could not get 2 sites there for us and our friend. Since we are fine without hook ups, I'm thinking either the lot to the north of Hershey Park Drive (walking distance) or the museum (on the bus loop)
  16. Does anybody know about parking at the AACA library? It seems there were some large RV's there in past years, and this year 2 of us are bringing our bus RV's, and liked the idea of good solid ground to park.
  17. I have a 1911 White, fell free to email me and I can give you some information on them. Adam AWalkupHCCA@hotmail.com
  18. This is a link to engine pictures: 1907 Maxwell For Sale | Facebook
  19. FOR SALE: 1907 Maxwell 2 cyl Model L Roadster. Older restoration, good driving condition. Cranks easily and fun to drive. Call Ross Walkup with any questions 941-468-6795 $22,500
  20. FOR SALE: 1907 Maxwell 2 cyl Roadster model L. Older restoration, good running condition. Cranks easily and is fun to drive. Call Ross Walkup with any questions 941-468-6795 $22,500
  21. I agree!! I have a 30 hp White (1909) and a 40 hp (1911). The 40 hp car is 4 1/4 X 5 3/4 I belive, something like 340 inces. It is a terrific running car, runs great at 55 mph, and is very strong. I just replaced the original bearing, and they still looked great. Adam
  22. I might be interested, feel free to email me at Luvolekars@AOL.com. I have a 25 Dodge touring which is a restored car
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