John A

Mikefit, Thank you, that is very nice of you. I de-rusted and re-coated the interior of the gas tank using KBS product. Even though I have reinstalled the tank and the gauge system I have not put any fuel in the tank yet. I am allowing it to cure thoroughly, also, I am in winter here in Maine so no need to operate the car. When I do put fuel in the tank I will see how the gauge works. If it does not I will contact you or Bucks Bike Shop. Thanks again. John

Thanks for the detail. I could not find a bicycle repair shop in my area so I re-assembled my sender, cable and fine wire to the gauge using the original cable housing and the adjustable slide connector at the back of the gauge for the fine tuning you described. I also decided the main thing to know from the gauge is when the fuel is approaching empty. Glad you are so considerate of the wife having to walk to get more gas. If my reuse of the original cable assembly does not react well I will be more diligent in locating some bicycle shift cable housing and some fine stainless steel or piano wire for the connection. My roadster has side mounted spares and a large trunk on the rack over the gas tank making tank removal a challenging project that I hope I will not have to repeat.

Hi Mikefit, Thanks for your post. How long was the run from tank to dash gauge and was it routed along the chases and up in to the cowl? Did the tank assembly have an arm for the float? Sounds like it just hung in the tank for the way you connected the float that must be brass if you soldered the wire to it. Does it register completely from empty to full? I have reinstalled my cable-conduit with fine wire after saturating it with silicone. I don't know how well it is going to work but is moved very freely after the silicone.. I did a thorough de-rusting of the gas tank interior and sealed it with KBS Fuel Tank Sealer. While at it I made a float using wine corks that I machined, epoxied together and coated with the KBS. Also treated my vacuum fuel tank the same way I did the gas tank.

Hi dracenroc, Hopefully you have solved your '28 buick gas gauge system issues. It has been 2 1/2 years since your post. I not I can answer some of the questions. I did a ground up restoration on my '28 54 master rdsr in the late 1970's. At that time I was able to locate a conduit with wire to connect the sender to the the dash gauge. Length is about 13 feet. However after 40 years the wire does not move freely and so the unit does not register from 0 to full properly. The routing of the conduit is along the inside of the chassis rail and up through the cowl channel on the right hand side.to the connection on the gauge. What i am questioning is what conduit/wire works for this application. I can measure the float rod if you still need to know the length. My interest is in Buicks and BMW's. Recently sold my '84 633 CSI. Am driving a 2002 525i . previously had a '72, '73, '74 2002 an '84 Bavaria and '86 3.0. I have been downsizing to make life easier. Finally I have '55 model 46 C Buick Special Convertible that I restored in the 1980's that received an AACA Grand National First in 1991. My '28 Model 54 has been in my family since 1928. 90 years and still going strong. I hope to hear from you, John

Thanks Larry, I guess from '25 to'28 they started getting more complicated to make it more convenient for the driver to monitor his fuel supply. I would like to contact someone that has found it necessary to restore or replace the conduit and wire from the tank to the dash gauge on a '28 model. On my master model 54 that length is about 13 feet of cable/wire. It runs along the frame on the right side and then makes a sharp turn up into the cowl and to the gauge connector. That turn radius is quite sharp and restricts the movement of the wire. It was OK when I restored the car 40 years ago but now it is only free when the run is straight. John Plummer

Mike6024, Thanks for the Bike shifter cable suggestion. I am searching for a bike shop that I can visit to explain my need and show a sample of the cable I want to replace. If you can suggest one I will contact them to discuss my requirement. John Plummer

dibarlaw, Thank you , glad to hear Snyder's has floats that are appropriate for Buicks of the 20's. Most anxious to know if the gas gauge system in your '25 Standard and Master Buicks is like the one I have in my '28 Master. The connecting wire in its conduit does not move freely enough to move the dash gauge through it complete range so need to devise something new to restore it to good working order. Thanks, John Plummer

Morgan Wright, Thank you. Actually last year I made a float for my Marvel carb using wine bottle corks. I think after 89 years the original cork float was taking on gas. I made flat surfaces and glued them together then shaped them to fit in the carb chamber. That worked OK but I am not sure the cork is of a quality that will endure over time with the current gas/additives. I plan to use non ethanol gas for more certainty and may make floats for carb and gas tank using nitriphyl or neoprene if I can find a supply in stock large enough to shape as I need.

Patrick J Reeve, Thank you for the suggestion of Restoration Specialties. They were a great resource when I restored my '28 roadster and my '55 special convertible that received a Grand Nat'l First in 1991. John Plummer

Thank you MCHinson. I am still anxious to collect info re the system , tank float to the dash gauge. John Plummer

Thank you for re-posting. I tried Mac's Ford supply, Out of Biz. sold to Fla Company and I read poor reviews so have not contacted them yet. Do the ford floats have a hole for mounting and are they brass? Who else supplies ford items? John

I restored my '28 mod 54 Spt Rdstr in the 1970's. At that time I used a wound conduit with a fine stainless steel wire running thru it. I inserted it in the original outer conduit. The length was 13 ft 6 in. It worked perfectly for 25 years. During that time the car was used frequently for tours, rallys and parades and has always been garaged in a climate controlled environment. Since 2000 the car has seen little activity and since 2010 the gas gauge has not worked properly. I removed the tank and the cable assembly and worked it with lube to be sure the wire that connects the tank float to the gauge was free to slide easily. This is a mechanical arrangement and is actuated by the spring tension in the dash gauge and the float weight in the tank. As the float moves up and down it turns the horizontal dial in the dash gauge from 0 to 19 gallons. My setup now seems to have too much resistance for the stainless steel wire to slide easily so it will not register freely the full to empty reading. I have some ideas for a replacement conduit/wire combination but would like to get some insight from ones that have replaced this assembly. I don't want to go to an electric gauge. Finally with the problems related to the ethanol content in gas, I need to locate a tank float or material to make one for the sending arm that will not be affected by the ethanol. (neoprene or nitrile) size 2- 7/8" long x 1- 7/8" diameter with a 1/8" center hole. Thank you, John Plummer AACA member # 691584 BCA member # 12138

I am searching for an ECM (engine control module) Bosch 0 261 200 008. How can I confirm this is the correct unit number for my car? Will other unit number work. It seems the last 3 digits vary from unit to unit and year to year. my vin is WBAEB 7407E6727530

Thanks Al, I remember Lew from shows we attended in the late 80's and early 90's. He was showing a 55 caddy. We both received our AACA Senior at the same meet. I took my '55 buick 46C to Cedar Rapids in 1991 and received Grand Nat'l First. John A

I an upgrading my 1928 Buick Master roadster model 54 and am serchring for a ready to install top in Hartz canvas Buff color with pads. Please advise if anyone is currently offering this top or has the pattern to make it up. I can supply the material from LeBaron Bonney. Also I have the top that was damaged by fire that could be used as a pattern for both the top, the rear curtain and the pads.

I am new to the forum and don't know how to utilize this tool but here goes. Re July 2007 inquiry for cylinder head, Hope you found one in the time that has past but if not let me know. I have an engine about to scrap. I think it is a standard series (smaller one) from mid 20's. Many years in the weather but who knows? My Buicks are 28-54C and 55-46C Result of ground up restoration on the Master Roadster conducted 1976 to 1979 have numerous parts and need to do some space renovation.