JoelsBuicks

Rod, the wiper motor pic below is generic off the internet supposedly for 36 Buick - I'm not near mine. You'll see the on/off lever that has that up turned yoke or fork. The rod of the wiper knob is situated inside that yoke and when moved, shifts that lever from side to side, thereby switching the motor. A pic of your motor might be helpful, Joel

That's perfect! Actually, that is the wing glass crank and now I can even see how they are oriented. Now let me see if I can help you. The attached picture shows the wiper knob assembly. The end of this rod actually fits into an upward turned fork that is part of the wiper motor's control lever. Strictly speaking, it doesn't attach at all but instead is positioned in such a way that when you move it, it activates the lever because it is cradled or "captured" by the sides of the fork. Am I making any sense? Thanks again for your help, Joel

Thanks Rod. I'll admit that I'm being a little lazy here - I have two other 36's but wasn't really wanting to disturb those 75 year old door panels - not yet anyways. Thanks again, Joel

This is for my 36 Sr. 80 project. In one of the pictures below I'm holding a thin flat metal piece measuring about 2.5" x 6". I have two of these and I'm certain that they nail to the door - somewhere. My pre-project pics did not show this because I had not torn away the rotten door panel material. Also, my old wood is packed away and nearly 600 miles away. My best guess at this time is that they spanned across the triangular hole where the wing glass handle will be in the front doors. This would explain why there are two. I just don't remember where these went and while it seems that something would fit into the hole, It could be for accessing for oiling, tightening, or adjusting. Any help is greatly appreciated, Joel

Ok, I searched the pre-war forum using search words 320 pistons and found two discussions that pretty much said that the 38 pistons will work on 36 & 37 - although there wasn't that really valuable followup that we'd all like to see. Egge has the 38 pistons and for some reason, I can't get on Bob's website and haven't for a few days now. This may or may not be of help, but the original pistons for 36, 37, and 38 (maybe even later but not certain) had a top ring that is 5/32" thick. The replacement pistons had a top ring that is 3/32" thick. It is not easy to find original standard ring sets that have the thicker top ring. If you go for the 38 pistons, let us know how it worked out. Joel

Are you assuming that the difference is in the rods and not the pistons? I ask this because I'm not certain but thought the difference is in the pistons and primarily the top of the pistons. I know that the original pistons for a 36 are flat top and I believe that this is also true for the 37. I also thought that rods were the same for 36-49 320 cui excepting the conversion from babbitt to inserts. I also know that the original pistons for a 38 are "domed," referred to as turbulator. Now, the big question is whether or not the 38 pistons will fit into a 36 or 37. The bore is the same but I do not know about the valve clearance. I believe that this is the big question and it seems that I recall a forum discussion on this a couple years back but I cannot find it. I believe that you have the opportunity to save some money if someone who's been there before can steer you in the right direction.

For what it's worth, all three of my '36's have black petrified rubber knobs. My Roadmaster is what I would trust as the most likely to be original since it was last on the road in 1947. My '37 - 90 has an old ivory knob. Joel

Rod, I would encourage you to call Bob's and not assume they don't have it because it's not listed on their site - I take it that's what you mean. I can't say that they've got what you're looking for but I've now ordered many items that were not on the website, by calling. Another thing I've noticed is that they will show items to be out of stock (a red * ) but when I call, they have plenty in stock. They always suggest to use their catalogue instead of their website to see what all they offer.

Grand Nation Ale Joel

Actually, I have yet to find one where that bolt was twisted off. Start early with the oil penetrant to give it the best chance. Joel

Regarding the filter, because of connection issues, I think about the best you could do would be a filter that takes a partial stream of oil to a filter. In theory, everything still gets filtered even with partial flow. I wish that I could tell you where the right connection points are located on that engine, but I'm many miles away from mine right now. You ask an interesting question about the need for a filter. While it's easy to suggest that every car should have an oil filter, I'd probably keep an existing one operating, but I'm not sure I'd put one on that didn't already have one. I think if you keep your air cleaner in good shape and keep your oil changed regularly, you or your car will never miss the filter. Joel

Hi Robert, you really do need a key for this and a locksmith shoud be able to do that fairly quickly using the glove box lock. When you have the key, then you use a paper clip in the hole and turn the whole lock cylinder out. Now I don't remember what comes next but I think it will be obvious once the cylinder is out. Seems like I recall a screw type plug on the outside of the casting that gives you access to remove a sliding bar that can now be pulled out as a result of removing the cylinder. As far as I know, all locks were keyed alike on the '36.

I realize it's a different decade, but on my '60 Electra, the ones that are marked "R" are a little shorter and belong in the rear. The longer front bolts I think are because of the aluminum drums. I do know for a fact that if you switch the bolts, the longer front bolts will hit that horizontal bar that goes between brake shoes - part of the emergency brake action. Joel

I'm just amazed at the information available from the contributors on this site. Thank you all very much for sharing your knowledge about this. I asked to learn something about this and I did. Thanks again, Joel

Jeff, I did this on my '36 Roadmaster. I first bought the bushings before taking the hinges apart. I guess I must have beat the hell out of the pins getting them out because they wouldn't fit into the bushings and they even looked bent. I ended up buying new pins with bushings and all is now peaceful in that department. Joel

In the picture below you'll see a box of sorts attached to my 38 exhaust manifold. It has a tube that attaches to the choke on the Carter WCD carburetor. I have a feeling that some of this, even perhaps the carburetor itself may be from a different year. In particular, I wonder about this attached box, which doesn't have any penetrations to the manifold but instead provides for a supply of quiescent warm air to the choke. Is this setup original or is it something that was regional? In a way, it looks like a professionally added component vs. an afterthought. This is the only one of these I've seen. I guess I'll keep it but is there anything to learn here? Thanks,

Brian, thanks for taking the time and effort to look. I see if Jeff can help. Thanks again, Joel

Brian, I don't know what happended to the thread. I still need the piston and very much appreciate the help. Joel

Thank you all for the help. It will be painted green. Joel

Jeff, I haven't cleaned up my old pistons yet but I need to look closely at the lands. I did look at land wear (gap) and it appears to be very good - although I need to measure it with the new rings. The shims in my rods and mains were still there and the crank wear shows flat by only .0025" max. I did experience the problem you had on my 36 320 engine and really couldn't explain the broken rings - lands still were good. I enjoy the thought of being able to return the engine to a standard spec if at all possible - not just to save $$ but that certainly is a bonus. It may very well be that you can help with one of your original pistons. I'll let you know. Thank you, Joel

Brian, I very much appreciate you making that phone call. Let's hope that they haven't tossed them yet! Indeed CARS Inc. will sell a signle standard piston but it will have the thinner ring and force me into a set of newer rings when all I would need is one ring. Called them earlier today. Thanks, Joel

I noticed that the push rod cover for my 1938 engine is painted black. For some reason, I thought that it is supposed to be green but from what I can tell, it never was green. Is this piece supposed to be black on a 1938 series 40? If so, what about the spark plug cover? Thanks, Joel

I am looking for one used or NOS original standard size piston for my 1938 248 engine. The original piston is different from replacement pistons in that it has a thicker top ring, 1/8-inch instead of 3/32-inch. You'll see the difference in the picture. My engine is in great shape except for one cylinder that will be sleeved and bored to standard. I can buy a replacement standard piston but it would probably mean that I'll have to buy an additional set of rings since the top ring will be 3/32". Used condition is fine as long as its normal wear and the lands aren't broken. Thanks, Joel

Then you must see the hour hand halfway between the 12 and 1?

The clock says it's 6:00 but the shadow shows around noon. Joel