JoelsBuicks

The pic below shows some sort of electrical insulation board used inside the parking lights of the '36. It's about 1/8" thick. I'm sure there is a suitable and similar replacement material being made, I just have no idea what it would be called. I will be converting these lights to include turn signals. This will mean drilling out this riveted assembly and then replacing with something similar but with two conductors. Or, maybe I'll just drill another hole through the pot metal and put on heat shrink tubing to protect the new wires. Any tips or experience with this out there? Thanks for you help!

My understanding is that this business serves a niche in the medical equipment & services field and that the owner is a car enthusiast offering this service to folks like us. I could not have been more pleased. Uvira Inc. Attn: Mr. Bill Atwood 310 Pleasant Valley Road Merlin, OR 97532-8871 (541) 474-5050

Uvira's recent quote to me was $75 for a set of two reflectors - they need to have a polished nickel plating for their process. A few months ago, I sent in three sets and he gave me a bit off that quoted rate. They came back quickly and when I take a close look at them, I see this real ugly dude looking back at me. Actually, they are fantastic.

I wonder if a parts exchange book would help? I've seen very similar or identical rear vent windows on other GM cars. A good example is one from a Pontiac shown in Ebay Listing 120740460354. This seller is in MN. I don't know that it fits but it looks close enough to inquire, but if I recall correctly, my Sr. 40 has these but they are not as tall. Too bad you couldn't go sifting the ruins to see if they made it - they are steel, not pot metal. Wish I could be more help, Joel

I've only seen them referred to as rear vent windows. By the way, these Sr. 90 rear vent window frames are the same as the ones in my Sr. 80 and also my 37 Sr. 90. They are handed, that is, a left won't fit on the right.

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your sidemounted '36 Century. As you go through your parts, be careful to not toss out any old wood - no matter how rotten. As you go through the wood replacement portion, you'll appreciate having a pattern - even if it's just a small part. Good luck and ask any questions - these are a very friendly and helpful bunch!

Saw this today headed south in southern OK. When I see things like this, I always take the optimist's perspective and see it as one more destined for the road again. Perhaps someone knows about this one?

Thank you both for the helpful information and quick response. Joel

I have two straight eight engines for which I am needing information. The first is what I believe is supposed to be '34 or '35 and having an engine number 42918477. The second is a later 320 engine of unknown year with a number 50147627. Any help is very much appreciated, Joel

On my '36 90, my fan has HC on the bolt heads. B2 is on the hood latch as well as the horns. On my '36 80, the fan and horn has B2 and the hood latch is HC. I try to check the fender bolts tomorrow. Joel

I loved that answer too!

Sandy - Thanks for the advice. So, the little notch you are talking about would be a notch to accomodate the part of the vertical bar just below that vertical vent window edge seal? I think I understand. I also like the idea of cutting a little longer so as to create a tight resisting fit. Did you just use weatherstrip adhesive to glue the vent window edge seal to the metal backing piece that tab-fits to the bar? That's what my plan was but I wasn't too crazy about it. Also, did you glue in the vent window seal (not the edge seal) into its metal channel? Mine will be somewhat loose if I don't do something like glue it in. Good tip on the super glue - I already have one of those oops to try this on. Thanks again, Joel

55-60 mph would be 2611-2848 rpm. Assume 4.1/1 and 7.6 ft tire circumference and high gear. Joel

I'm currently doing a prepaint fit-up of my vent window seals for my '36 Roadmasher. The seals around the vent window are a little long as you'll see in the photos. I am guessing that this was meant to be a razor trim job but wanted to check first. Everything else fits good - just can't get the divider bar close enough. Any experience out there with this? Thank You!

Just yesterday I turned my church bulletin into a a to-do list and then used the remaining space to sequence wing-glass reassembly in my '36 RM. Yes, the lists are overwhelming and when you're driving nails into wood and clinching rivets on window channels, sequence does matter. Oh, and don't forget that little strip of metal that has to be woodgrained before the new window channel gets riveted. I should have just listened to the preacher.

Thanks for the help, I installed it today. Joel

The coolant bypass valve for my '38 Series 40 engine is showing about a 0.1" gap around the seat area. The gap is very uniform and tells me that it isn't an artifact of corrosion but perhaps something like a rubber seal or something else missing? See the pics below - they show this gap, especially the pic of the inside view. Maybe this just acts likes an orifice during normal running; allowing an always present bypass of hot water back into pump suction? If so, I don't really like that thought but I guess it must have worked. Anyhow, does anyone know if what I've got is normal or should I modify it to close this gap? Thanks for your help and input,

Mike, chances of having the p/n are slight but I know right where to look to see if I kept the receipt. You are right about pin clearance and it took quite a bit of hammering to loosen the pin as it is a tight fit at the top. Before I lifted the motor, I would do some serious head scratching about pulling the piece out, even if I had to get out the fire wrench to remove the bolts. Joel

Mike, I really wish that I could see what the setup for that car looks like. For my '36 Series 80, I performed the fix with the body off and the engine removed. I was able to pull all four bolts to that assembly and then completely removed it by disconnecting the link from the sector and the ball joint. I had to jockey the piece a bit but it came right out - no problem. I believe that I could have done this with everything together - albeit a much more challenging task. When I disassembled the bearings and shaft, both bearings totally dry and completely worn out - in fact, it all just fell apart. I took what was left of the outside and inside races and went to a place called Allied Bearing and they pulled off the shelf two non-sealed cone type bearings with outside races of the same dimensions as the old original ball-type. I then fashioned a nylon reinforced rubber washer to go under the bellville washer in preparation for holding grease. I then took the body of the assembly and drilled a hole through to the inside chamber and tapped the hole to take a grease zerk. I put it all back together, tightening the nut enough to give a little resistance when turning by hand. I am still in the restoration process and so this fix is untested but I have no reason to believe that it will not work. It was quite telling that this non-greased but highly active assembly was the only such place on my car that had significant wear. Again, this is not a '40 and so it may only be useful as inspiration. Good Luck!

Oscar, that's a very nice grill. I'll offer you $500 and will come pick it up. Thanks, Joel

Maybe this link will help, although I don't believ it's where I got my washers. Window Regulator Washers & Bushings Joel

Brian, this may not be of much help because I cannot remember who I purchased these from. They are leather washers made for this application - on my 36 Roadmaster. There are two different inside diameters required for each "pin". One is about 3/8" ID and the other is about 7/16" ID. Maybe I got the suppliers name from this forum? I just don't recall. I ground off the back of the pin and punched it free. Then, I tapped the pin and installed a screw - yes I'm a bit concerned about it unscrewing and will probably tack weld it instead. At least you know someone out there makes these.

My pickup has a new turn signal.

Can you jumper a hot wire from battery to the hot side of the coil? Sounds like you are losing power to the coil while cranking. Joel

Maybe the code just changed their tolerances for door gap fit-up? Joel