JoelsBuicks

Tulsa Craigslist ad for a 58 wagon in real tough shape. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/4733697632.html Joel

Don, I sensed something might not be right. I'd like to get it as close to original as reasonbly possible. Thanks!

I'm restoring my '31 8-67 and I am preparing to install the correct 272 engine/transmission onto the frame. For some unknown reason, none of the parts catalogues carry front engine motor mounts for 1931. This car came to me with a cobbled up '37 248 in it and I'm just happy the frame was left unmolested. I can only guess what a correct or even acceptable mount looks like - I have created a drawing of my speculation but I'm now second guessing myself. I was planning on using '33 front rubber mounts that I bought from Bob's - they are 1/2" thick by about 2" diameter with a 1/2" hole. Can someone give some insight on the original front engine mounting for this car? Do I need the rubber on both top and bottom of the frame? Thank You!

Gary, my fuel pump is AC 5751 for my 31 8-67. Unfortunately I can't help with any of the parts.

I'm sure at this point that I will be going to the local machine shop and having these bushings made. I found material very close to the dimensions and it will just need to be trimmed on the outside. I have my doubts that they'll be able to put in a lubrication groove but I can ask. This box was opened and it had grease around the gear and bearings but that grease was getting nowhere close to these bushings. I'm going back with a heavy oil and a new oil seal - hopefully that will do a better job of keeping these lubed. Thanks,

I am looking for a source for steering sector bushings shown in the pic. These are for a '31 8-67 and mine are well worn, probably from a dry steering box. The Filling Station has bushings for this era GMC but there is no size given. These are for 1-3/8" shaft diameter and 1.567" OD. The rest of the box and bearings are in surprisingly good shape. Thank You, Joel

Mark, thank you for taking a look. I have yet to find one but there are a couple on eBay very close to the right size. I may just buy them and give them a try. Thanks again, joel

I'll take curtain No. 3. It looks like my 31 hubcaps except its in better condition. Joel

Bob, I looked at Lee Spring website - didn't find anything close and so I emailed them with the pic. They said it would be a custom job with $400 to $600 setup fee. I found other spring suppliers but no luck with any of them. There are several possibilities on ebay but not one reply to my inquiries about the length of the spring. Still looking for this, seems like I get easily sidetracked by the simplest of things. Thank you, Joel

I need to find two of the brake springs shown in the picture. These are for my '31 Sr. 60. The spring measures 7" long with a 4" long coil. The coil diameter is 5/8" and the wire size is 0.120". I was hoping to stumble onto some spring supplier's giant catalogue but the internet is not giving them up (Spring Catalogue is not a good search phrase!). Thanks in advance for your help.

Just to follow up on this, on friday I got a chance to try the ball hitch idea and it worked great - both sides. This was after I tried and failed with my standard two-arm puller using the lug nut shoulders (screwed on backwards). The drum didn't come flying off - when I noticed the least bit of movement, I put the puller back on and it took almost no effort to remove. Thanks again for the great ideas, Joel

Carl, that's exactly what I needed. Thank you very much, Joel

The number in the pic is from a 248 that was painfully installed in my '31 Buick. Can someone tell me what model year this engine was for? Thank you!

Glenn, that sounds very clever and is something I would love to try. Right now, my whole frame is suspended from the ceiling with everything else gone. I'm gonna first try a couple things with my standard pulley puller that were mentioned above. I'll bet I've got a hitch ball close by that will do this. Last night I found a place on the internet that will make a correct hub puller for $200. I'll try a lot of things before I buy one. Thank You, Joel

Although I have wire wheels, I'd bet the puller would work because my hubs have an outside thread that otherwise would be for naught. It looks to be a bit finer than a pipe thread. It's nice to know that all I have to do is find a way to pull it. Thanks again! joel

I'm doing brake resto work on my '31 8-60 and I don't know how to remove the rear hub and/or drum. I have the big nut removed and I'm looking at a keyed shaft. The axle end has a dimple that looks like it would accommodate a puller but I don't know where the other part of the puller would hook. Might be time to buy a book but hopefully someone who knows the next step will chime in. After finishing up most of the engine work on this car, I've come to expect the unexpected. Thank you all very much!

I've been giving this some thought and there are a couple things that come to mind. I assume you're looking at an original style muffler. First, make sure you get the tailpipe out there well past the body. I've heard that the trunk seal and fuel filler area may not be that well sealed and prone to allowing exhaust in the cabin. The other thing is to consider a heat reflecting shield around the muffler. I am using a dynamat like material on my floor and I don't want it to get all melty from the heat - just something to consider. As far as a supplier goes, I have no idea but there may be some folks around here that will make a recommendation. Wish I could be more help.

Rod, did you figure this out? I'm sitting ' in the Newark Airport awaiting my direct to Tulsa and don't have access to my car but these things I recall that there is a stiff channel below the flexible fuzzy channel on each side of the door. First, remove the small, short channel on the wood (the one for a leg of the winder) so that window glass and channel can be separated from the winder mechanism. Then remove the wood across the door. Next, remove the stiff channel sections and pull glass out of its fuzzy flexible channel enough to clear the wood at the top of that lower curve. This sounds like a real cluster but I think it's what it takes. On my roadmasher I cut a groove in the lower wood and the cut a small diagonal on the bottom of the glass to make it roll down all the way. take care, joel

Yep, a little hickory persuasion worked! Thanks again Larry! Joel

Found these in stock at Otto Gas Engine Works.

Steve, tried to send you a pm. Joel

Don, thank you so much for your help! Joel

Larry, I did but it was very little prying. It was at this point that I chose to take the pics and poll the masses. Joel

On my '31-67, I'm trying to remove the headlights from the cross bar but I don't know where to go from here. I have removed the nuts and washers and nothing will budge. Are these things screwed into the castings on the bar? If so, it might required some heat to unfreeze them. Please advise and thank you very much!

On each side of the car in the space between the doors and running board is this hole - I suppose for accessing or greasing something? I am missing one of these covers. Thanks,