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Jim_Edwards

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Everything posted by Jim_Edwards

  1. Whatever it is, it appears to have heavily borrowed from the 1946 Ford. Pretty much the same parking and taillights, thought the parking lights are in '47-'48 location. Dash is also a copy of the Ford dash.
  2. Maybe it's just my ears, but all the '70s era AM/FM stereo receivers seem to sound really bad in comparison to a decent receiver today. I just finished installing (maybe I should say hiding) a Kenwood unit with all the bells and whistles in a car that had what was considered a fine sound system in the 1970s, and it instantly made a huge difference in sound quality even though coming out of 34 year old speakers.
  3. Not worth repairing! Just go buy a new one with all the latest bells and whistles. Will probably run less than repairing what you have.
  4. Not really sure exactly how much progress you've made so the best comment is "hang in there." I don't know that I would have the courage to take it on without having metal breaks, a press, and an English wheel to shape all the metal replacement you appear to be facing.
  5. A 215/75R16 would probably be the best choice in terms of load rating. However you will probably be making the ride a quite a bit more harsh with any 16" radial because they are of much lower profile than their 15" counterpart as well as in comparison to a bias ply tire. Will you get into a problem with fender rub? Probably not with either 205 or 215 75s, though it is possible you might run into minor frame rubbing problems on full lock turns.
  6. Hee, hee, not hardly. However, I did spend a lot of my professional life locating often difficult to find repair parts and parts needed to keep military product production lines humming along after some knucklehead had dropped the ball. Do enough of that sort of thing and you learn to take approaches to a problem many have not yet learned.
  7. Curt, I too had seen the claim by Equipment Service in a forum post circa 2006 and after looking at their web site more or less figured it was a spam post. Not that it will help you any at all, Bishman Manufacturing was apparently acquired by Lear-Siegler and became the Bishman Division of that company. I'm guessing sometime in the 1970s. Lear-Siegler is now a portion of URS having passed through more than one corporate merger and it appears to no longer have any relationship of any nature to automotive service equipment. It would be interesting to come up with the name or names now holding
  8. Curt, for what it may be worth to you the patent number shown on the I.D. plate was issued in November of 1954, however the application for patent was filed in June of 1949. You will find rather detailed exploded view drawings of the machine at: Circumferentially traveling type tire mounting and demounting apparatus I believe you will find the text following the illustrations quite informative.
  9. Curt, what parts do you think or know you need? The heart of a Bishman tire changer was/is the Gast air motor. Gast can be found on the web and if you have the model of the given air motor on your Bishman I suspect they can tell you what you may need to regain functionality.
  10. Neat find! But I think it may be older than you think. There are 100's, if not thousands of old Bishman tire changers around and parts may not be as difficult to find as you may think. Do a google search for Bishman parts. A word of caution; those tire changers were made for steel wheels and will not treat cast wheels with any degree of kindness.
  11. Wow, not many of those that have escaped being made a dragster or dirt track queen in times past. From the hood, I'm guessing that old girl may have seen a dirt track or two in times past. You've really got your work cut out for you to say the least. Hope you have lots of money and know a really good divorce attorney. It is for certain you'll need the former, and maybe the latter as mountains of the former go into the project.
  12. Don, I'm not sure of what engineering advances of which you are making references. The biggest thing that went on with the Continentals was the bench running of each engine for 50 hours, disassembling and measuring strategic components for wear. Those showing any degree of wear were relegated back to common Lincoln production. Those passing were re-assembled and put into Continentals. The car mags published articles in both '55 and '56 on the subject. I recall seeing more than one photo of basically a clean room with a couple of dozen engines going through the 50 hour test. The Arizona pr
  13. May be a possibility if you know the original part number(s) Obsolete Vintage Radios & Radio Parts
  14. You may find yourself thinking other than Sacrilege after a few bouts with the idiosyncrasies of the 368 "Y" block in your '57. Not the least of which will be summertime vapor lock issues, which Lincoln/Mercury saw fit to continue forward with the MEL block engines. On the other hand, I personally believe in keeping a car as close to they way it was the day it rolled off the assembly line, now know issues or not. Your '57 is a fantastic example of a luxury car that in my mind was overall more outstanding than the competition, and I own a '57 Caddy that I frequently make disparaging remarks
  15. Nope, but it is interesting the exact same taillight arrangement appeared on the '61 Mercury Monterey.
  16. Naah, age has nothing to do with it. After the "natural" rubber tires disappeared whitewall tires became an option, a rather expensive option. Buyers were being "gigged" more for a single whitewall than a whole set of black wall tires cost the manufacturers of automobiles. They remained "optional" until in the 1960s they became standard equipment on many cars. The only cars before that time they were standard equipment on would have been Cadillacs, Lincolns, Packards, and Chrysler Imperials, and that may have only been the case after 1950. Jim
  17. To expand a bit on Glenn's great post, size wise virtually all the case sizes are available from CarQuest parts stores or from an Exide Battery dealer. There are other sources and if I recall correctly both the Exide and CarQuest web sites also have charts which are inclusive of the CCA ratings. Most, if not all, 12V battery types from the 1950s up can also be obtained from your friendly Ford and GM dealers, they just won't be of the old Tar top type, if that was used, and the stickers will not be of the era. Sorry I don't know about battery availability from other make dealerships like Chry
  18. I'm sure you have discovered that other cars of the era had interiors done by Ghia who apparently had a thing about Mouton Carpeting. Among those Ghia completed cars was the Cadillac Eldorado Brougham. There was/is an Eldorado Brougham specific restoration parts operation in California whose web site indicates they have the Mouton carpet sets for those Cadillacs. It stands to reason they are not furriers or a carpeting house, meaning they are getting those Mouton carpet sets from somewhere, and that somewhere might just produce what you need. I'd give them a call. <big><big>(9
  19. Probably the best choice, especially if you ever get caught in a rain unexpectedly. Having wipers that won't work, or barely work in a rain is much like burned out headlamps after the Sun goes down. Not good! Jim
  20. Incorrect: Impalas should not have been co-mingled with Bel Air as their body style identifications are different whether coupe or convertible. Additionally there were options available for Impala that were not available for Bel Air. Though a second look at the "Red Book" pages shows Impala jumbled in with Bel Air, it should not have been that way. Impala was never a sub label to Bel Air, it was a unique model unto itself just as it has been in subsequent years. Now I'm through with all of this pointless nit-picky nonsense. Not only that, I don't give a flip about who or what led to a cha
  21. I think just about anything could beat a '58 Chevy in a drag. I took a 348 tri-power with a '47 Ford Coupe with a flathead, a mild cam, and a pair of Stromberg 97s sitting on an Offy manifold. I also mopped up the same Impala with my Dad's '58 Mercury Montclair with a 383 MEL block. Ah, those were the days..... Jim
  22. As I thought I made clear, I don't give a flip. Makes no darn difference. Get it! However, I will point out your revered "Red Book" does not illustrate anything beyond the basic variation of the automobiles and makes no allowances for accessories, all of which resulted in different specific weights for a delivered automobile. I would also point out those pages make no reference to the Impala which had a 3,080 lb weight for a basic variation of the vehicle. Given the "Red Book" was intended to be a financing guide for lenders precise vehicle weights were not a major issue. Jim
  23. Heh, heh.........Are any of references we now use really accurate? I've always contended that given long enough history becomes written as the writer thought it was or should have been. I sure wouldn't bet my life on any automotive information that didn't come directly from something published in the given time. Candidly I don't know the real original source for the charts I posted. In the overall scheme of things I'm not going to loose any sleep over who may be right or who may be wrong about the weight variations that might have existed among various production year and models of any car
  24. We all get into trouble with generalized statements and this is has been a good example given the differences in engine weights, accessories, and interiors that caused actual curb weights to vary all over the place. 1957 Weight range Price Range Produced <table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="1" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td style="padding: 0.75pt; width: 25%;" width="25%"> Bel Air </td> <td style="padding: 0.75pt; width: 25%;" width="25%"> 3,232-3,465 </td> <td style="padding: 0.75p
  25. Given your description of the engine only running a very short time it would appear there are more issues than just the battery or the wiper motor. Given the car has been sitting as long as you indicate you have a lot of things to go through. If it were my car I'd disconnect all vacuum lines from the engine and plug the nipples the lines attached to. You may have more vacuum leaks than you realize, not to mention fuel delivery related issues. It's hard to isolate engine issues without basically isolating the engine so to speak. I suspect you may well have vacuum leaks around the carburetor
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