arnulfo de l.a.

That looks like too much slop. You are there , change the chain and gears. You will be glad you did! Will run noticeably better. This is assuming that the chain slop is not the result of a line bore , in which case the slop is permanent

I used a puller to remove my harmonic balancer after i removed the center bolt. When you replace the harmanoc balancer its imperative that the center bolt get torqued to 250 ft. Lbs. i made a tool to hold the harmonic balancer when torquing down bolt. Good luck

I stand corrected by Bloo. I forgot that field excitation is provided by the regulator so as he stated.My apologies for the bad info.

Something seems way off . The voltage should go up not down when regulator is disconnected, unless i misunderstood something. The regulator is what keeps the voltage at a useable level. 14 v. Max in most cases. It does not produce voltage which is what you are implying when you stated that the voltage went down after you disconnect the regulator. You should consider taking your car to a professional auto electric shop. Electricity is not very forgiving when it comes to making mistakes. Good luck.

Remove the radiator and possibly grill. I dont think its a good idea not to fix it.

Scotch 33 is the best on the market. UL tested and is rated to insulate up to 600v. Its all we used when i worked as a electrician. The cheap tape was used for attaching wire ends to a fish tape for pulling thru a conduit. Was removed and thrown away after wire pull. Could go through 10 rolls of the cheap tape in a work day when pulling big wire. I would not use anything other than scotch 33 on a permanent installation. Good luck.

Those tail lights look HORRIBLE!

That LS installation by TONY GENTILCORE looks clean and vey well done. Personally i feel that if dropping an LS into a rivi will save it from the crusher or sold in parts I am all for it.

Make it yours and drive it until you cant drive anymore. I have 65 gs that i use as daily driver. Not as fresh looking as your car but in decent shape. Not worried about leaving it for future generations or anything like that. I bought the car to drive and thats what im doing and loving it.

Beautiful car !

Easiest way to verify if horns are faulty is to take a couple of jumper wires directly from the battery. Attach negative to horn body and positive to horn wire terminal. If they work, then you can establish if grounded properly by leaving positive attached to horn wire terminal ,disconnect jumper from negative and press horn bar. If it works then you have a good ground and problem is most likely at relay. If it does not work , thats an indication that you dont have a ground.good luck

I read somewhere, dont remember where could hav e been here,that factory convertibles had addition re enforcement added somewhere in the body . I cant remember exactly where the re enforcement was added. Im thinking maybe A pillars.

Which cam on the chart above is the 425 2- 4 barrel carb cam? From what i have read on this forum its more aggressive than the others. I am having a hard time deciphering that info from the above chart.

LOL! “ If i have a spare I will never need it “ Aint that the truth!

Turn the switch to ACC and check the positive side of the coil for voltage. If present, something is wired wrong. If not you should be good to go. I recommend you use a FUSED assesory circuit . Good luck

That is sweet! Even has the rare rear ac compressor mounting bracket

At what temp should you start to worry about overheating and shutting down engine?

I have timed mine a few times and depending on outside temps anywhere from 5- 6 1/2 minutes

Los Angeles 213

The way picture three looks to me there is no way around a complete tear down if you want to do it right. Hopefully cylinder will clean up within .060” of boring. If not then you need to consider another block or resleeve. I know thats not what you want to hear but that is reality as i see it. Good luck.

You are a class act Bob! I have not had ANY overheating issues with my 65 . No puking or idiot light on. Original radiator rodded once in 2008. I think a big part of an engine running cool is that there not be any type of build up in the blocks water pocket Walls as well as everything else being up to par.

That motor needs to be tore down completely and rebuilt if you want to do it right and not have any more problems. Looks like coolant got into the cylinders where the corrosion is..you need to find out how. Good luck

That is COOL! ^^^^

Because you have hydraulics ,i would just get the cheapest ones you can find. Hydraulics are hard on shocks, especially if you hop the the car in the back alot. Im assuming you are asking about rear shocks. If you have hydraulics in the front , you have no shocks there.

Thanks for the info Tom,Ed.