arnulfo de l.a.

I had the monroes on my 65 and they were not good. Have bilsteins on front now 100% better

If im not mistaken BOB BURNOPT Turbinater restores them too. Does nice work and reasonable prices

Impressive craftsmanship !

Would love to see that! How bout it JZRIV!😬

100% spot on!

I roughed up the surface with 80 grit prior to applying fiberglass. Appears to have adhered well. If it does fail then I will definitely consider getting one of Gene’s.

Noticed a crack starting to develop at the corner where the bar meets the hub. Typical location where they break. I see why these break there . Not much material there . Too thin. I re enforced it with fiberglass and resin. Feels much stronger. Hoping it keeps it from breaking. Living in beautiful Los Angeles California a working horn is a must

When I was working as a IBEW electrician in this beautiful city of LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA,this is what we used for terminating high horsepower 480 volt ac industrial electric motors topped off with scotch 33. This is overkill for cars being a car only puts out 14 volts dc at best. In a low voltage system like a cars system the main concern is protection from heat and chaffing from rubbing on metal edges. For those reasons I have used scotch 33 . It is the industry standard in the commercial electrical construction field and when applied properly and is good up to 600v ac.But now I prefer TESA because its tougher than scotch 33 and looks better than scotch 33 in our cars and sticks as good as scotch 33. It is important that the wire harness be cleaned prior to installing tape. No dirt or oil on the surface. Good luck

Looking at the worn tip it appears to me that the very edge of the worn tip where they did not make contact with the valve stem would be the original thickness of the tip. Having said that ,they do appear much thinner than the newly acquired tip.

WOW ! I never knew that. Just changed my oil a couple of weeks ago. Fortunately I am in the habit of letting the starter crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out then i will give the gas pedal a couple of pumps and she fires right up. I will start putting oil in the filter prior to installation from now on. Thanks for the info EmTee!

I would be pleasantly surprised if that was still the price BOB. Chrome plating prices here in Cali has gone through the roof as has quality. The main culprit for that is the EPA. They have put so many restrictions / regulations in place that many shops just closed their doors. The one shop that I did business with ( CHRISTENSON PLATING in VERNON) did concourse quality plating that has lasted DECADES on my HARLEY. I recently tried a shop that has been around since the 70’s hoping I would get same quality as CHRISTENSONS provided but it was not to be. The work was mediocre at best. Am still in search of a quality plating service that is local. I am not a fan of sending car or motorcycle parts out of state or country .

For tach and air shock hoses i used existing factory holes. I try not to drill any holes for any reason unless there is no way around it . So far have not had to drill any holes.

Is that the method BOYD used? Sounds doable

What Bernie states makes lots of sense.I got terrible gaps on the quarter panel side both doors.I installed stainless door edge guards to help cover the gap. I remember the late car builder BOYD the AMERICAN HOT ROD guy stated that was his pet peav. He made it a point to address those gaps on every one of his builds. Always wondered how they fixed that.

All that matters is that it works for you Bob ! Good that you have the original type. Yes ,I would venture to say that the fuel line configuration is probly different. All is well with me, hope the same for you and yours

Actually, other than the fuel pump issue , my riv is VERY dependable. Never failed me for any other reason than the fuel pump since i bought it in 2004. Has been my daily driver since aquisition. If you are still contemplating going with electronic ignition, I highly recommend DAVE. His work is top notch and worth the wait

Yes it does have ac. So far the diaphram and all other internal components have been holding up well to the ethanol blended gas. I cant say you will have the same idle improvement results . I also went with electronic ignition done by DAVES SMALL HEI. Works flawlessly. I was going through the big box store fuel pumps every couple of years. Got in the habit of carrying a back up electric fuel pump in trunk. Saved me more than once from having to call a tow truck. I posted a thread awhile back when i changed one that went bad with photos of it opened up showing where they fail.

Having used both types ( currently have the original rebuildable ac type), I found that the pressure of the big box store crimp type has a weaker flow. Car idles better with the original AC pump.

The old monroes ( fatties) do look more effective compared to the modern day speced monroes. Its great that the new ones worked out for you. Could be that my coil springs are too wore out for them which is why they didnt work out for me. My car has original gs coil springs on all 4 corners . Didnt want to change them

What brand are the fatties? Were they wore out ? What brand are the replacements and how do you like the ride?

The one Ken Reed had for sale was much nicer than this one in my opinion and for about 100k less

Got the new front shocks installed . Went with BILSTEINS reasons being the shocks i replaced were the recommended MONROE shocks. I had forgotten that i replaced all four shocks when i bought the car in 2004. Even when new i felt they were too soft and i didnt like the ride. The Bilsteins are a HUGE improvement handling wise as well as when going over speed bumps or through dips. No more having to slow down from freeway speed (75mph) to keep from bottoming out when going through a dip. The monroes were not worn out. They still had resistance when manually moving the piston in and out. The Bilsteins were much more harder to move the piston in and out by hand. I will say that the Bilsteins are a stiffer ride than what i think the ride was like from the factory. Not so stiff as to cause things to rattle . The trade off is worth it.The car is so much more pleasurable to drive now. Very happy with the end result of the new shocks and rear bushings . Top picture shows the difference in size between the shock bodies Bottom picture shows difference is size between the piston shafts

The outer most pulley does not appear to be true. But also ,looking closely at the surface of the balancer snout that mkes contact with the crankshaft when torqued down, it looks to me that the balancer may not be seating against the crankshaft for entire 360 circumference. With the the key positioned at 6 oclock, look at the mating surface of the balancer between 10 oclock and 12 oclock. To me it looks like there was just enough of a gap in that area to allow oil to seep in verses the rest of the circumference.

Are these not balanced to the engines they are mounted to at the factory? How would one from another engine affect your engine? I would try fixing yours if possible. A good machine shop can weld that and machine the od and id to spec.good luck.

Your garage is impressive too Ken. Is that a rotating inground table that the driver side front tire of the 65 is on top of? Looked a little closer and see its an extension cord. Still, aa cool garage!