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arnulfo de l.a.

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Everything posted by arnulfo de l.a.

  1. Dave, the wiring on these cars are pretty labor intensive due to all the power accessories, and difficult accessibility. I dont know anyone to refer you to that i would call a guru. The only thing i could recommend is if you have a buddy that is a certified electrician maybe he can be of assistance. I have rewired motorcycles from the ground up and worked on whatever electrical problems that have arisen on my rivi and lots of other cars . Hands down the rivi is always the most challenging. The reason i recommend a certified electrician is because if they got the proper schooling, they understand the science behind electricity. Thats important for proper wire sizing, wire routing, and trouble shooting. I dont know where you are located but if you are anywhere near GODS COUNTRY , beautiful LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA, i would be happy to help you at no charge. Good luck.
  2. Beautiful car! Dig the stance. Is it lowered? What size tire? Thanks
  3. I have a 1965 with delux white interior and the console is black.
  4. Do these bosch plugs ( WR9FP ) come pre gapped from factory? Tom T mentions .050 in his post. Does that apply to electronic ignition also?
  5. Anytime i see “ rebuilt or overhauled engine” that raises red flags for me . Who did the work? Did the person that did the work have experience with nailheads? A block can be messed up by line boring ( will never get timing right because of loose timing chain) and heads damaged by installing new seats
  6. True relay will go to default position which is closed but motor will not be energized if micro/ limit switch for closed position is open.
  7. That is certainly a possibility but I doubt that is what is happening. A relay has 2 separate circuits within it. One is the control and the other is the controlled. The control circuit is the one that comes off the light switch. The controlled circuit is the one that activates the headlight motor which has its own set of contacts that are separate from the relay coil terminals. Because of this the relay coil does not see the load that it is controlling so the load has no affect on it.The coil moves the headlight motor activating contacts to open or close via magnetism. No mechanical or electrical connection between the two circuits. You are correct that the default position is closed on the relay. But if the limit/ micro switch on the “ closing “ field of the motor is in the open position when the headlights are turned on, ( which is what should happen),there will be no power going to “ close “ field of the headlight motor so the motor would not go into the close mode. The headlight visor motor has 2 fields wound within it. One is the opening field the other is the closing field. The 2 micro/ limit switches at the top,in conjunction with the relay and headlight switch control when each of these fields get power. I could be wrong and it may be the relay but in my 30 years of working on much more complicated circuits involving relays , I’ve only seen them work or not work due to the relay coil or load contacts being burnt out.
  8. I would check the micro switches at the top of the motor where the arms connect. May be loose or not properly adjusted
  9. Being he has obo offer 15000. If everything is as you describe i think even 20000 is a fair price, but in the end , the car is worth whatever you are willing to pay for it.
  10. I suggest you remove the timing chain cover. That fuel pump being stuck in itself would be reason enough but the fact that one of the mounting holes is stripped is even more reason to do so. You will be able to do a better job of fixing that stripped hole with the cover removed.You don’t want to cause further damage by trying to force that pump off. Something isn’t right and the only way to get to the bottom of it is to put the work in and remove that cover.You can also check the timing chain and gears while you’re at it.
  11. I just went through the same problem on mine . Turned out to be the solenoid inside the tranny was burned out. Had it changed at a tranny shop. All is good now.
  12. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/d/buick-riviera-int-eng-glassfenders-etc/7267754841.html check this man out he may have a factory shroud
  13. My fan blade measure from 15/16” to 1” spacing from the belt.. have you tried to source a oem shroud?
  14. I think i have the H2 option. Cant say for sure but my steering box on my 65gs is 2 3/4 lock to lock.
  15. I’m thinking I’m thinking if you have to do all that then maybe they are on right they way they were originally
  16. Have you done the modification TOM T. Mentions ? Reversing the auxiliary air blades so cutout/holes face the Venturi supports?
  17. Huge improvement! No sludge is a good sign !
  18. I know where I would send my motor if I wanted a rebuild ! you get what you pay for. Tom because you are using forged pistons do you set them up looser than factory spec? Do you get any piston slap on cold start?
  19. Happy to help in ANY way i can Bob. No trouble what so ever.
  20. I have only used the electric fuel pump to get me home when the mechanical dies. Longest distance was 35 miles and it did perform well. I too now have an oem mechanical fuel pump on my car. They are rebuildable. So far it’s holding up well. I tore into the last mechanical that died on me. It was from NAPA AUTO PARTS. Very cheaply made. Clarified why they kept breaking. I posted pictures of the internals and the weak point. If I knew how to search for them I would re post so you could see what I’m talking about. I think I figured it out ;
  21. Count me in with Ed on an order if it happens
  22. The few times my Rivi broke down it ALWAYS the fuel pump. So I carry an electric fuel pump with enough fuel line to go from the inside bottom of gas tank to carborator and about 5 foot wire leads on the fuel pump with clamps on the end and the few hand tools needed to do the installation I.e. pliers , small adjustable crescent wrench, Phillips and straight screw drivers , knife and zip ties
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