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arnulfo de l.a.

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Posts posted by arnulfo de l.a.

  1. The way picture three looks to me there is no way around a complete tear down if you want to do it right. Hopefully cylinder will clean up within .060” of boring. If not then you need to consider another block or resleeve. I know thats not what you want to hear but that is reality as i see it. Good luck.

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  2. 7 hours ago, Turbinator said:

    Ed, No toying around. When coolant was shooting out from radiator cap I figured something wasn’t right. I tested the radiator cap and made a change. Coolant still came out from the radiator cap. I made sure I had the thermostat in correctly. Thermostat in correctly, so changed it out until I got to 160 thermostat. The coolant stopped spewing from under the radiator cap when engine was turned off after driving for a period. I figured the problem was solved.

    The purpose of the severe duty fan clutch was an effort to draw more air in over the engine. The severe duty fan clutch runs 80 percent of the time.

    The shroud helps to direct the air toward the engine to help keep the engine cool. I also corresponded with a gent who lives in AZ who owns a Riviera and he told me the higher temp thermostat was too much for his engine., The gent said he used a 160 thermostat. I vaguely remember my Dad telling me you are suppose to change the thermostat with change in the season.The reason I went to 7lb radiator cap is because the gent who has been rebuilding radiators his whole life recommended the 7 lb cap was better for the radiator. Since I had the car I’ve three radiator leaks they have been repaired. The 7 lb cap works fine.

    You are right fixing one problem at a time and test before you try something else makes good sense. The over heating was a problem that has been a problem since I owned the car. Now what I mean by over heating was coolant was spewing from the radiator cap after driving the car and the car engine turned off when I reached my destination.

    I have the temp gauge installed so I can watch the temp. I like having the temp gauge. Maybe the engine runs a bit hotter after a rebuild. I must have missed the section in the manual about the engine overheating after a rebuild.

    Anything automotive I usually have to work pretty hard to get it right the first attempt at repair. So far it has been an adventure in maintaining the Riv. My pal Tom Telesco has coached me on many small repairs. Tom has even worked on my car and made corrections on my work such as showing me the correct way to install a cotter pin, or install a ground wire. I’m making progress and I might say I’m delighted with my Riviera 😊

    The forum has been a great help in helping me to fix up my car. There are many, such as yourself, offer quite a bit of help that I truly appreciate.


    You are a class act  Bob! I have not had ANY overheating issues with my 65 .  No puking or idiot light on. Original radiator rodded once  in 2008. I think a big part of an engine running cool is that there not be any type of build up in the blocks water pocket Walls as well as everything else being up to par. 

  3. That motor needs to be tore down completely and rebuilt if you want to do it right and not have any more problems. Looks like coolant got into the cylinders where the corrosion is..you need to find out how. Good luck

  4. Because you have hydraulics ,i would just get the cheapest ones you can find. Hydraulics are hard on shocks, especially if you hop the the car in the back alot. Im assuming you are asking about rear shocks. If you have hydraulics in the front , you have no shocks there.

  5. Looks to me like it is a match. You can test the switch with a continuity tester. The brass prong is most likely the hot lead and black and whites are your up/ down leads. Connect one lead to the hot/ brass prong and other lead to one of the whites or blacks. Move the switch up or down. You should get continuity in one of the positions. Go through each wire to confirm all are working and typical. Then go to the connector on the car and verify that the red wire is in fact a hot with a voltage tester and that the wire is the center hole corresponding to the brass prong on the switch. The black and white wires on the the connector should not show voltage when tested. Good luck

    • Like 1
  6. 6 hours ago, Bill Loeb said:

    interesting theoretical thinking 

    I have not installed the electronic ignition yet, but I did convert to a modern, internal regulator alternator. It will charge up to 16 amps now instead of the stock 12.

    Thank everyone, again, for the input. 

    Truly appreciated.  

    Do you mean 16 volts? If yes that is a bit high. May cause overcharging problems

  7. 6 hours ago, Turbinator said:

    Arnulfo, Sir are the gent that got the new Riviera styled wheels for you maroon 65. I thought I saw a  photo of yousr recently, ( I could be wrong) with US wheels (?) If it is yours it certainly looks good. For certain.

    Thank you for your opinion to have the original recored through and through. It's kind of pricey and so was the US repro 4 row radiator. US Radiator is getting a letter from me expressing disappointment in their product. The US Radiator may be assembled in the US, but the materials US used to build the unit was weak.

    Fortunately, I keep all receipts and log book of what is spent and done to the 63 I have.

    Again thank you for your input.




    Turbinator that photo i posted of a red 64 with US WHEELS on is not mine. It was on OFFERUP for sale. I posted a picture of my car with the newly installed BUICK RALLYS widend 1” on the POST PICTURES OF YOUR RIVIERA thread. My youngest and favorite son is in the photo also. 

  8. Man Turbinator sure am sorry to hear that! I always thought US RADIATOR was top notch. 2 leaks within 4 years is unacceptable. I still have the original radiator with original core in my 65. When i bought the car in 2004 the radiator had a leak. Had the core rodded out and leak repaired. Still holding up.I think recoring your original is the way to go. Good luck  

  9. If it turns out your alternator is the problem, and you care about keeping the original parts your car rolled off the factory line with,get your original one rebuilt. Maybe mark it somehow to make sure you get the same one back. 

  10. Ed i cant comment on the specific uses for those bolts but  i have read on various car forums that it is best to install new head bolt when reassembling a rebuilt/ overhauled motor. If i recall correctly the reasoning is that they are weaken due to initial stretching during the initial torque process as well as the many heat cycles they have endured through out the years 

  11. Tom, I'm sure everything you stated about the switch pitch converter is correct. Could you please explain how high stall at 2/3 throttle adds to performance? In my mind i would think low stall would add to performance at 2/3 throttle but im sure my thinking is flawed because the factory didn't build them for 2/3 throttle low stall. Thanks for the schooling!

  12. On 5/27/2021 at 10:03 PM, Riviera Russ 65 said:

    Great looking setup!  

    What size of rims are you running on the front and rear?  Tires are Michelin?


    Wish i could tell you but thats not my car. I got the pictures from an ad on OFFERUP




  13. 1 hour ago, 60FlatTop said:

    Anywhere near western New York? I removed my harness, unwrapped it, and repaired Jimmy Joe Calhoun's work- you know, the 6' 4" "electrician" who wears the steer horn belt buckle.


    Fixed a Ford one time that had the brake light wires welded into the rear wheel arch repair.

    Not everyone that calls themselves “ electrician” has the proper training, hell i went through the ibew apprenticeship, 4 years, with guys who cheated their way through, could never do the technical side of the trade. They were the ones digging the ditches and all the other grunt work involved in electrical construction.

    • Haha 1
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