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Everything posted by Jim_McNally

  1. Wow - flat grey primer. Beats red-oxide I guess... Jim
  2. OMG, put it out of our misery! Jim
  3. Welcome to the TC community - sorry for your problem. You need to know that the ABS brakes on the TC are totaly different from almost anything else on the road -it's a Teves active system, also used on the GM Reatta. It's main difference is it uses an electric hydraulic pump to generate the pressure to brake. What looks like the master cylinder is actually a complex hydraulic valve. It is not uncommon for the fuses , relays or wiring for the system to fail, leaving you with no brakes. If you search in this forum, there are a number of posts about troubleshooting the Teves system. Just don't expect your average mechanic to know it. Mopar or GM buys from the late 80s may, if they ever worked on them. The factory manual also has a good deal of information. Good luck, Jim
  4. Just measured both of mine - the 8V is 19 3/4 in to the bottom (underside) of the plastic part that hits the top of the dip-stick tube. On the 16V it's 20 3/4 in. And your top looks exactly like mine, so it's probably the stock one. Only non-diesel engine I've seen take that much oil is my Audi, which really does take 7 quarts. Maybe an old big-block hemi too, don't exactly remember... Jim
  5. Yes, both the 8V and the 16V are 2.2liter - the 3.0 was the 6 cyl in model years 90 and 91 only. You could still order the 16V after 1989, but the 8V 2.2 was in 89 only. Jim
  6. Here's what I did in both of mine - I can easily see the gauges (boost, A/F ratio and the rectangular one is Exhaust Gas Temperature) through the steering wheel. You don't look at them all that much anyway, and there's plenty of room there without getting in the way of your leg. Here's a close up. I made this one from veneer plywood; the one in the 16V is clear polycarbonate. And there's room to put a switch or two if I ever needed to do that... Jim Edit - You can find 25mm industrial gauges that will cover -30 in H2O to 30 psi, but they are so small they're hard to read. I used a 25mm for a fuel pressure gauge on the 16V (mounted outside the windshield for safety) and it's an OK size for that.
  7. Almost makes me wish I still lived in MD... The SMECs are definitely different, just take the one out of the 8V and swap it in. You will need to source a flywheel from another chrysler product - someone familiar with this chime in? Jim
  8. Both of mine have been off for over a year - I garage them in the winter. I bought them to drive with the top down, and it just doesn't feel right any other way... Jim
  9. Actually, I think it is - you're just seeing the reflection of the white wall behind the car in the paint... Jim
  10. Fuel filter? Sounds like the cleaning loosened gunk in the lines, which got into the FPR and caused it to stick open, causing the engine to run rich (hence the symptoms you got). Just watch for any other engine running issues - might have gotten gunk into the injectors, and you don't want to get one running lean and overheating a cylinder after you replace the FPR... Jim
  11. Unless you have the 16 valve (and I don't see the badge on the side of the car) the head is a standard Chrysler Turbo II (as long as you get the right one for the common or non-common block, whichever one you have). All the manifolds, etc. should bolt up... Jim
  12. Also, is it a TII automatic or the 16V manual? I would assume the former... Pictures are almost a necessity to sell one of these, if only to show actual condition. Jim
  13. Well, most of us have outgrown the "mine's bigger than yours" thing, even if our flat land elevation out here starts where most of the eastern mountains stop...:cool: Jim
  14. Sorry, don't need a third one - guess the market is just really soft right now... Good Luck, though Jim
  15. Size and offset are the most important thing, unless you're racing it, then weight becomes an issue. They are an alloy that can corrode easily if the clearcoat wears off. Acid is a bad idea, unless you know exactly what you're doing. If it's just dirt, a good cleaning is in order. If they're pitted and corroded, then they need to be smoothed and buffed, then clearcoated, but the original had a black painted insert to highlight the lace - that's a pretty big job if you want them looking really mint... Jim
  16. Completely depends on condition. If the mechanicals are good, and the interior is excellent, then I'd agree $5-6K (since I did last year). If it's a garage queen with 10K miles and everything is immaculate, then a lot more. Unfortunately those are really rare...:cool: Jim
  17. Yeah, that's about a grand less than I paid for my 16V a year ago. Jim
  18. Definitely look at the tach board (on the rear of the instrument cluster) - it may not be bad, just loose or a bad connection. On my 8V it was intermittant when I first got the car, turned out someone had previously inserted it into it's slot at an angle so it wasn't making good contact. Seated it correctly and it's been fine ever since. It gets it's signal from the SMEC, so there could also be a wiring issue - try re-seating the plugs behind the cluster at the same time and check the wiring harness for rubbing / breaks just to be sure... Jim
  19. Sorry to hear about your husband - I lost my wife last year too. It's tough in most other ways as well... We're all happy to help. Jim McNally
  20. From previous posts I think you have an '89. For either engine, the only differences on that end of the engine are specific parts like the TB tensioner, but in any case it sounds like a bad bearing in something belt driven. If you want to try, you could loosen the belt and try turning the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, etc. by hand - if one of the bearings is bad you should be able to feel it. If it's none of those, it could be the timing belt tensioner bearing - they dry out and start to sound awful. If it's loud enough to be heard over the engine noise, I'd get it found and fixed ASAP - don't want to break a belt and get stranded if a bearing freezes, and if your waterpump went and you overheat, you're looking at major head work... Jim
  21. I just looked at the wiring diagram, and it shows two connectors - the oval one on the sensor, plus a square one (labeled "Rear of Battery") and then the wires go to the SMEC. So I'd check that square connector, and then try the SMEC connector - it's pin 48 on the big connector. Maybe try swapping the SMEC if you have a spare. Jim
  22. My guess would be a break in the wires from the sensor to the cluster - that's all that's left... Jim
  23. Yup - it's on the trans. Easier if you remove the air-filter box and some of the hoses first... Jim
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