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  1. Why are the boards installed on edge? :confused:
  2. Be very wary. They are using "stated value" and "agreed value" in the same paragraph. The terms are NOT the same. If the policy is stated value they will pay a claim that is depreciated from the stated value. You will NOT get full value. An agreed value policy does NOT depreciate the vehicle. If the vehicle is agreed to be worth $10,000.00 and it is totaled, you will get $10,000.00. A stated value of $10,000.00 will be paid at a depreciated rate if the vehicle is totaled.
  3. If it is not an "agreed value" policy, it is worthless as far as antique coverage goes. You will never get full value back if something happens.
  4. 1972 Chevy Vega: Wife's car when we got married in 1976. Couldn't afford to go out much, so on warm evenings we used to sit around the car and watch it rust. 1983 Volkswagen Rabbit GTi: Constant oil leaks. Three fuel pumps in three years. Two alternators in three years. Overheating on warm days. I traded a beautiful 1978 Datsun 280Z for the GTi. My wife has never forgiven me. 1997 Mazda Millenia: Wife's car. Beautiful car. Piece of junk. Electrical system failed everytime we took it through the car wash. Dealer manager said that was an "unauthorized use of the car." :eek: On one of the many repair trips, the car porter drove it into a wall. Unfortunately, it was not destroyed. One day whille sitting in a movie theater car lot, the gas tank imploded! No, not exploded. It literally sucked itself into a crumpled hunk of plastic due to a defective vent line.
  5. I'm puzzled as to why you have not stated exactly what the car is supposed to be (other than it is not a Camaro.) Someone may know other ways to tell exactly what the car really is. There are often hidden stampings and unique components that people miss when building a clone. I once had a lengthy conversation with Greg Donahue regarding a supposed "R" code 1964 Ford Galaxie. He told me all the secret places to look that would verify if the car really was an "R" code. Most of these things would be unknown to someone hoping to replace a 390 with a 427 and pass it off as an "R" code. Sure enough, upon closer examination by the prospective buyer (who I had passed Greg's info on to), the car turned out to be a fake. A good one, but a fake none the less.
  6. How old were "antique cars" when AACA was founded? 25? 30 years old? It didn't matter back then, why does it matter so much today? This I will never understand.
  7. Sure am glad I'm a true-blue oval Ford guy.
  8. And no one is forcing you to. Just walk on by. I go to many shows where modern vehicles are being shown. Instead of moaning about the fact that they are there, I just ignore them. I don't even take photos of them, but I don't begrudge their right to be there if the show allows it.
  9. Did you ever stop to think that when the AACA was formed (1935), the majority of antiques in exisitance then were maybe 30 years old? Why is today so different. I find the intolerance toward other hobbiests by some members of this club and forum to be very sad.
  10. I think you mean "float" not "venturi" at the bolded section. Float controls fuel level. The venturi control airflow through the carb. Your problem as initially described was an overflow of fuel. That is a float problem, not a venturi problem. I think this is your problem and solution as desribed in the link you provided: "They also argue that the Carter BB-1 gets along better with an electric fuel pump than the Marvel carburetor (which an electric pump can overwhelm, causing gasoline overflow from the float bowl), but that problem can be resolved by installing a $5.00 pressure reducer in the gas line."
  11. Well, so what was the cause/solution?
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