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Lee_M

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Everything posted by Lee_M

  1. headlights? AC? wipers? loading the charging system with all of these could drain the battery while driving IF your charging system is sub-par. a good example would be if you have a failed diode in the alternator. with all that load, the alternator would not be able to keep up, and you would be constantly discharging the battery. certain models, discontinued in 1989 by chrysler, had diode packs that are replaceable WITHOUT having to remove the alternator. for more info on charging systems: Alternators and Generators
  2. ddherbert's advice sounds solid to me. i too considered such a foolhardy act, and received plenty of good reasons NOT to do so. http://forums.aaca.org/f144/hemis-brake-conversion-abs-not-abs-302226.html i think it was hemi that detailed his project which is almost exactly what you have suggested here... but for some reason i can't find a link to it. it was either here, or at the yahoo! tc forum, or at allpar, maybe. anyone out there know where this article is? i think that while the conversion worked, the author recommended that others essentially "not try this at home".
  3. what kind of "chips"? eighth inch chunks, or small, sub-sixteenth inch granules? when was the last time the fluid and filter were changed? if never or more than 25k, why wouldn't they do it - the hard work of removing everything to find the "chips" was done?!?!? where did you take it? have you had a chance to experience the problem again, and try the key off-on 3x trick? my personal experience with local shops for rebuilding tranys is - DON'T! better to try a professionally rebuilt trany from a major re-manufacturer with a REAL warranty, and have it installed my someone you trust, or install it yourself.
  4. best of all - it sold. looks good sitting on a lebaron. and who said TC and lebaron parts weren't interchangeable?!
  5. there is an amp, and also final amp drivers on the larger speakers themselves. this is only armchair conjecture, but perhaps your after-market installation included wiring modifications that eliminated the functionality of the remote amp, and final drivers on the speakers, which you will have to undo in order to allow the original radio head to function.
  6. LOL. really, jim? then why mention "where it starts"? ;-) funny, i thought about you as i added that mountain statement. i'm just envious that someday you'll likely have great beach front property. 3:47 est - california jam alternately refer to the decemerists - calamity song
  7. tim, do you know if they replaced the input speed sensor or the output speed sensor? i found two listings, one for a dorman input speed sensor (917-601) and one for an output speed sensor (917-602)? both are low cost, but i would rather not replace parts that are OK. my 90 mitsu trany has this issue sometimes, and the other 91 mitsu i had, i sold to a friend, with the issue with the trany happening occasionally, but almost always after a long trip either in the heat or even if the weather were cooler, but included PA mountains. that would be hills to those of you in the rockies...
  8. interesting. the 3.0L ones i have experience with don't smoke. lucky me, i guess
  9. smoked? do you have an oil leak?
  10. i have forgotten what model and trany you have. not sure of the problem source, but on one i had with the mitsu 3.0 and 4sp auto, it sometimes exhibited that phenomenon. if i shifted to neutral and then turned the engine off, and restarted, it would usually heal itself. sometimes that wouldn't work, and i needed to pull over. i would shut off the engine, then turn the key to full on (not start), then to off, and repeat for a total of 3 on-off cycles. it would start and all was well for awhile. temperature seemed to be the cause. it only happened on really hot days, or after really long strenuous drives.
  11. marty, i've booked a flight on southwest to tempe, and my carry-on is a 205/60-15. see you soon. ;-) funny guy
  12. i think luke is from Ventura - a little far from NJ or PA for a "rescue".
  13. sorry the links didn't stick... Odometer Gears - WELCOME http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ChryslersTCbyMaserat/attachments/folder/0/list
  14. ken, simply search this forum for "speedometer" (quotes not needed). you will find a wealth of info on replacing/repairing the gears in the speedo head. larry "pink" & "floyd" houle outlined most of the resources pretty well a while back. here is his post... I found a You-Tube video to be very helpful. The only thing I did wrong was when I put the speedometer on I put it on 4 mph to slow. I don't know if I want to take the dash apart again. I replaced both the 16 and 20 tooth gear from Odometer Gears - WELCOME This is the youtube video referenced by Odometergears.com YouTube - ‪Odometer_ Gears_Replacement_Chrysler_TC_by_Maserati.avi‬‏ A copy of instuructions is availble on the Yahoo goup site. The document has many pictures that are helpful in removing the the dash to get at the odometer gears. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysl.../folder/0/list __________________ Larry Houle Former Physics Teacher
  15. bob, do you have a recommendation or part number on the brand of replacement you purchased?
  16. great photos, and solution, jim. these will be a great help in restoring my plumbing to the way it was designed. the emission schematic labels, while helpful, are no substitute for photos! thanks so much for sharing!
  17. should be behind the passenger side headlight. if you need repair help, see this link within the forum... http://forums.aaca.org/f144/horn-issue-262963.html
  18. jim, i'd be interested in seeing a photo of that custom copper manifold you created, if you don't mind? i reviewed the manuals again, and in addition to several differences in hose connections and different "tees" and "wyes", the purge solenoid has been capped, for starters... i also found that the PCV valve specialty rubber "tee" that connects it to the engine, manifold vacuum, and air cleaner, has become hardened, cracked and broken, with a large piece missing. i couldn't find a replacement, so i created a variation of it by cutting up a dorman emission hose, 46032, and using two of it's molded sharp "ells", a 5/8in 3-way "T" heater hose connector (koehler ent. H 583), and remaining pieces of the original tubing. the car easily passed the emissions test. i can provide photos if anyone is interested in what this new concoction looks like. new inspection stickers aside, however, by sunday i had a new problem. after a 10 minute or so warm-up, the engine when under load, as in accelerating up a hill, or just maintaining speed going up a hill, will seem to shutdown. RPM goes suddenly below 1000, and the car acts as if i suddenly and forcefully applied the brakes. just a quickly, the engine resumes its acceleration, shuttering several times in like fashion, until i back off the throttle enough to "coax" it gently to accelerate. after SEVERAL of these episodes, it will quiet down, to the point where i can, with gentle accelerator pedal, run normally. if i try to pass someone or "push" a hill, it may or may not, happen again. any ideas.
  19. thank you jim for the offer of help. i will review the manual again, and look at those stickers. i guess what is confusing to me are the different plastic manifold pieces in each of the TCs at which i have looked. i will look into this again this weekend.
  20. I have been on the hunt for details of what the original emissions control and/or vacuum plumbing of a 2.2l "early" block 4cyl 8v engine should look like. i have not been able to get enough info from my Blue and Red TC books (lost, but now found) to help me. i also have just purchased, but not received, several chrysler shop manuals, including those specifically for 1988 turbo 2.2, turbo laser-specific manuals, and those for 1988 thru 1990 dealing with drivetrain diags, wire diagrams, and "Electrical, Fuel, & Emissions". my problem, and hunt, started when i had to get emissions testing done for PA inspection. my previous residence in PA was exempt from emissions. now it is not. my unburned hydrocarbon reading was way too high even for an older car, generally held to a lower standard for pollution in general. while i have two 1989 8v "early" block engines, the two are very different in how the various vacuum lines are run, in terms of tees, and wyes, and plugged devices. oddly i have not run into problem with either of the mitsu 6cyl models: they are both identical under the hood and both pass emissions with really low scores. my goal is to return the plumbing of both 8v turbos to the way they were designed. i found a fairly detailed engine compartment photo online of an 8v TC for sale, however it raised more questions than it answered: the plumbing in it looked different than either of the two i have. does anyone know where i might find detailed photos of the engine compartment plumbing of an 8v TC? or would anyone with a "pristine" 8v be willing to post or send the detail photos i might need, in case all the manuals i have just purchased do not provide the info needed? thanks for reading...
  21. when i am at camp in the summer on cornwall mountain in trout run, i am near williamsport. otherwise, not really: i am near monroeville.
  22. i agree with bill. i am not one who should be offering advice about walking or running away from a TC deal, but i held back until i read bill's response. mine was going to be, you would have offered too much had you offered $1000. be glad the seller balked at $2k. as bill pointed out, general mechanical stuff can be easy - well not necessarily easy, but "do-able". the bad interior, bad soft-top, turbo issues, and malfunctioning teves system, are real downers
  23. from the outside of the car, i used a hair drier, and a hard plastic spatula, and had no trouble. i used heat with the idea it would relax the grip of the adhesive/sealant. i have nothing to prove that it actually helped. when it does come loose, at least in my case, it came loose suddenly, so be prepared to catch it.
  24. thanks for the help, folks! i now know how little i do know about the focus of my addiction. luckily for me i DID NOT pull the trigger on buying a bunch of parts for some summer TC projects. who new: i have to look up a 1988 lebaron to get most of my 8v parts. my naivete proves hemi's point the other day about the hvac control: even with a driver behind the wheel, the TC may still not have a brain...
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