Joe Cozza

Go for it!!!

Hi All, Just to add another finger to the pie, my 23 Aussie built has it's horn on the steering whl. and is still neg. ground. Maybe the Aussie's were a little slower back then. Sorry Ron couldn't pass that up. :) Joe C.

Trimacar.... That's find unless you are driving a right hand drive car. That shift lever is always banging on my knee. Joe C.

Good luck on the bidding. If you miss out, ck out my for sale ad on the Dodge Brothers web site. It's for a 1931 DB frame off restro. Needs as'sy Thanks for looking. Joe C.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm ordering the wiring and assorted stuff Mon. from RI wiring. I will be keeping it negative ground. Joe C.

Hi guys, I'm starting to rewire my 23 and it's a good thing. Some of the wires are as old as the car. I'm going to attempt to do it myself. I don't expect to have any trouble, However the wiring diagram in the book shows a positive ground. I have a negative ground. I would like to do it like the book. My question is that, I remember reading something about polarizing the starter/gen., Is that necessary and if so, how is it done? BTW the amp. gauge shows that the car is charging when running. Thanks, Joe C.

John, At least ours won't shut off the engine.

Thanks Doug and Roger For your responses. Doug: Sorry about the coupe/roadster. It was midnight when I posted that thread. It is a roadster. Roger: Got your e/m I'm going to call the person and give him your name and e/m address.

Hi all, Got a call from a potential new member. He's having trouble ID,ing his car so he found my name in the DBC News. Here's what he has or what he thinks he has, A 1928 cabriolet coupe roadster with a rumble seat. Here's the problem, I the serial # was located on a plate that was riveted in the area where it would normally stamped on the frame. The # starts with a J 4xxxx . He was told (it was on the reg.) that it was a 140 series. (?) His motor # is J62-xxx. I couldn't help him so I told him I would post his problem here. He is not quite internet savvy yet. Can anybody help? Thanks, Joe C.

I've been using a G.P.S. in my "31" for years. I used it in MI. at the meet. "Jill" saved my butt a couple of times that week. I use a small 12 volt battery tucked on the floor near the seat. Joe C.

MIClassicGirl Sent you a PM

Ron, Bring pictures of your car/s. My 23 won't be there but I'll have pictures. Joe C.

My wife and I will be going and John K., if you get lonesome for your 31 coupe you are welcome to ride in the rumble seat of mine. I'll be taking it instead of my 23 which decided it wanted new wiring before it goes anywhere this summer. Joe C.

Hi Guys' Thanks for all the input. I had to walk away from the car for a while. I'm sure you know why. I decided to replace all the wiring on the car since some of the wiring is probably as old as the car. I'm upset that I won't be able to bring it to this years meet. Rhode Island Wiring has a harness to fit the car so I'll start with that. I won't start until I come back from the meet. I'll be spending my time getting my 31 in shape for the meet and working around the guys putting a new driveway for me. I'll be back later as I'm sure to have some questions about polarity since my ground is not as my book shows it should be.

Hi All, Looks like I won't be bring Aussie built 23 to the meet this year. He's why, a few weeks I tried to start it up after sitting thru the winter. She started ok but I couldn't get it to run smooth. It would backfire when there was a load on the engine. So I cleaned the carb. In the past that worked. Not this time. So I looked for electrical problem. Cleaned the plugs. Looked at the points. Ok but reset them. I noticed my coil was warm. It's on the firewall away from the engine so it shouldn't haven't got that warm so soon. There's the problem, bad coil. Went down to my local NAPA dealer and got a new one (12V internal resister) just like the old one. Put it in. Same problem. While sitting in the driver's seat pulling the remaining hair I have I notice that the dash light was on, even with the key off. My tail light was also on. I got a serious short somewhere. I tried to look under the dash, but I couldn't get under it. Not as flexible in my old age so I used a mirror. There's a lot of wires under there. I pulled out the Clum switch. What a rats' nest of wires. There were wires attached to the switch that went nowhere. Also there's a insulated coil of wire that is suppose to be connected to two terminals but was disconnected at one end. Don't know what it's for. I think I'm looking at a complete rewire at this point. Don't know when or who did it but some wires are wrapped with metal. One more thing the book I got says it should be positive ground. Mine is negative ground. The amp gauge charged when it was suppose to. That also has a mess of wires attached. Does that gauge come out from the front? I'm looking for any suggestions on how to go about it. It's a good thing I could fall back on my old reliable 31 coupe. Thanks, Joe C.

Ian, I bought the car from a club member who lives in PA in 2008. I think he had it for 10 yrs. He bought it from still another club member who is now past. He lived in NJ. I tried to contact the family to see how he got it. I was only able to talk to his daughter who is on in years. All she could tell me that she always remembers her father owning that car. I asked what her father did for a living, thinking he might have been a wealthy person who worked in AU. and had the car shipped to the US, but she told me he was a "rocket scientist". That's as far as I got. I understand that a lot of car records were destroyed in a fire down there so I'm at a road block at this point to research any further. Joe C. PS: Is your gas pedal in between the brake and the clutch?

For what it's worth Attached is my pedals on my 23 Touring built in AU.

Scott, The cars are parked at the host hotel but are driven to events each day. The day of the car show the cars will be parked all day. I believe it's Friday of that week. Barry would know for sure. There are a lot of members that can't make the meet but are able to attend that day and some bring their cars. Contact Barry Cogan the President of the club and he's also the meet chairman. Hoped that helped a little Joe C. P.P.

Barry, Can you assure us that the temp. will be above freezing in time for the meet in June. Joe C.

Hi John, I used RI Wiring on both my 31 coupe about 7 years ago and more recently my 31 sedan. When I took of the old wires of my 31 coupe I labeled all the connections and I must have made a mistake because things didn't work out. Then I followed their instructions and everything worked out okay. They don't give a whole lot of extra wire to each area but it's enough. I would suggest that you stretch the harness from light switch to the tail light first then the branch that goes to the dash gauges will fall in place. The headlight harness is a no-brainier. Work from the light switch out to the lights. Good Luck Joe C.

Thanks Phil. I could never figure out how the rear-end worked till now.

That damn chicken!!!!!!

Here's my two cents. Attached is one of a bunch of pictures I took for a club member while checking a 1930 DC8 for him. The car was in a storage container for 10 years. Prior to that it was in a barn unrestored. The picture shows the beading on thefront fender. Joe C.

Hi All, I have a set of Top Irons ( I think that's what there're called) that are wrong for my 23 Touring. The clamping lugs that clamp onto the rod coming from the body should be higher(about 5 in.) to allow the top to sit lower on the body. This weekend I had a chance to compare my 23 to a 22 and I saw where the problem was. So, does anybody have a set I could buy/ trade. I hopefully attached some pictures. Joe C.

JayG, I was going to go to that show with my 31 coupe but decided to attend a closer show with my 23 tourer. Damn, I would have liked to have met you. Would you be going to the Glastonbury Show next Sunday? Joe C.