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I found some wiring from ignition switch to firewall which have melted. Someone ran a new wire from switch to positive side of the coil and added a ballast resistor in this wire. This resistor now gets hot when the car is running. I have a new harness from a parts car that I want to install, but I am afraid the wiring will get hot and melt if I remove the ballast resistor. Any thoughts Regards Barry ROA# 10622

Rex: I ordered a complete exhaust from Kepich exhaust they are in Florida. I live in the Niagara area of Ontario. I had it shipped to a UPS store in the U.S and drove over to get it. They had the best price. Google Kepich, get there phone # and call for price. thats what I did. Let me know if you want more info. The price for a shop here in Canada to custom bend it was out of sight. Regards Barry.

Thanks guys for the tips, I pulled the dist. today ran the pump with a drill, put the dist. back being sure to line everything back up to the marks I made before removal. The engine now runs fine, No tappet noise, all is good. Regards Barry.

Thanks for the help, I started the engine 3 times, running about 8-10 seconds each time. The oil light did not go out and the third time I started it some tappet noise was there. I am hoping that I did no further damage. I think priming the pump is my only choice at this point???????? Barry.

Hello to all: I got an engine for my 65 from a parts car the engine was running fine when I pulled it. I resealed everything before putting it in my car, got it running again and I now have no oil pressure, I have been told I could prime the pump by removing the dist. and use a drill. Is this right or is there another fix? Hope someone can help me out. Thank you. Barry.

My 65 air cleaner has a hole punched in the side of the snorkel to accept the breather hose from the valve cover, I believe this was a California only setup. I have a plug for the valve cover, was there ever a plug made or used for the breather? I will not be using the hole so for the correct look the hole needs to be gone. Barry ROA #10622 65, riv.

Thank you Patrick. I have a cars catalog, did not see it in there my book is a couple years old, I will check online or give them a call. Barry.

Thanks Ed for the info I would like to find a complete original tube, or even part of one so I can fabricate something, electric choke would be last resort I want the car to operate as it was intended.I have a working heat riser so thats half the battle. Regards, Barry.

Can someone help, I would like to know what the heat tube from the exhaust manifold to the choke is made of and how it attaches to the manifold. The manifolds I have only have a short copper or brass tube sticking out. could the hole in the manifold be tapped and a piece of tubing run up to the choke. Any other ideas anyone. Thank you in advance. Barry.

Jim The car in question is for sale on the Hemmings site (classified) by Orlando Classic Cars asking price $57,500. I think the mystery continues....... Barry

Jim the only # I can come up with is the item # 110211751589. I hope this helps you out. If I can assist you further just let me know. Regards, Barry

Jim: This car was offered on ebay mid january by Orlando Classic Cars (321) 624-3200. I still have the page saved in my favs. I could send it to you if you like. Barry

Thanks so much for the info on the front seal I will upgrade to the modern seal. Barry ___________________

I am looking for a more modern type front cover seal for the 401 as opposed to the old rope style, perhaps chicago rawhide makes one. the part number would be helpful. thanks.