Ron Luchene

Rudy, I added a seperate ground wire from my seat frame to the body and it made a world of difference in how the seat functioned. Ron

Derek - I agree. If this car were my daily driver I wouldn't even have considered moving to Haggerty or any other classic car insurer. Having said that, while researching this topic I never came across a single post where Haggerty or Grundy refused to pay the claim. There were a few postings where folks indicated they had to fight for 30 days but in all cases folks stated the claim was paid. Most stated thier claim was paid without question. Another factor for me was that I carry an Umbrella policy with State Farm. Many of the classic car insurers will not provide coverage for the higher liability limits especially for uninsured or under insured motorists. Haggerty offers $250,000/$500,000/$100,000 in both cases which was the minimum required to keep my umbrella policy in force. Had I not found a company that insured at the higher limits I would have maintained my insurance for my '65 Riviera with State Farm. In the end both forms of insurance have pros and cons. I hope I just pay premiums and never have to collect!

Tim, I removed the Govenor today and it appears to be operational. Everything moves freely. I cleaned and reinstalled it, test drove the vehicle and no change. I think I will go ahead and remove the Valve Body over the weekend. If anyone has other idea's please let me know. Thanks - Ron

I went ahead and signed up with Hagerty this afternoon. My existing policy with State Farm is up next week and I didn't want to risk a lapse in coverage. I'm sure Grundy is a good company but I made several calls to both Grundy and Hagerty in the last couple of days, asking identical questions and the level of customer service from Grundy just didn't rise to that provided by Hagerty. Hagerty was nearly 50% higher on the premium but I believe their customer service is worth the extra dollars. In addition, both companies acknowledge their product is somewhat fluid and continues to be enhanced each year. While this forum and others provide great insight, the specifics about policy features stated in this thread will soon be dated. Take the time to investigate on your own when the time comes to make a buying decision. Thanks for the replies! Ron

Both Hagerty and Grundy advertise unlimited mileage. Hagerty does have a great Towing option which states "Flat Bed" towing. If you purchase their premium towing package it includes towing for every vehicle you own regardless of who insures the vehicle. I just received a copy of the application from Hagerty. Here is their statement on Use. USE: 1. My vehicle(s) will be used on a limited basis consistent with the operation of a collectible vehicle such as occasional pleasure drives and club / hobby activities. 2. My vehicle(s) will not be used frequently for regular driving such as driving to and from work or school, shopping, errands, general transportation or back-up use. Any Grundy customers out there?

I know this topic has been covered in the past but based on the little research I have done in the last 24 hours it would seem that a lot of information from past posts is now dated. My '65 Riviera has been insured with State Farm since I purchased it. I was willing to pay a higher premium because the clauses in the Hagerty and Grundy policies about vehicle use and what was covered scared me a bit. Based on my conversations with both companies it now seems that they are more relaxed about use. They object to daily driver use but I was insistent that I want to drive the vehicle to work and for errands at least a day every other week or so. I asked the question several different ways and both companies insist I am covered. Three years ago the answers were very different from both of these companies. I would love to see statitics on denied claims by Classic Car insurance companies and reasons for the denials. I know...I'm dreaming! Grundy is cheaper but Haggerty was much more helpful on the phone and provided several reasons why I should be willing to pay more for their coverage. Are there other companies I should consider? Please weigh in and let me know your thoughts and experiences. Thanks - Ron

Ed, I have been running the Igniter III with the Flame Thrower coil and their wire set since October. I widened the gap on the plugs by .005" and it runs great. I have a 3.23 rear end and the mileage is typically 12-13mpg but I am in the gas pedal a lot. I have no complaints! Ron

Tim - That would certainly be a simple fix and I will check it out first. My concern is that I use to have a 1-2 shift but no 2-3. The Service Manual mentions the Govenor for 1-2 shift issues but not 2-3. Hopefully I will have time this evening to pull the Govenor. Thanks!

Based on your explanation, and since none of this started until the detent solenoid kicked in, maybe there was trash in the area of the detent solenoid that is now floating around the valve body. Is that possible? If I disassemble the valve body and I find some particles and flush them out, do I need to rebuild the valve body?

I just posted this in the Riviera forum but since my transmission is common to other Buicks I thought I would post here as well. I have no issues looking for a reputable transmission shop but I always hate giving up a chance to save some money and learn something at the same time. Admittedly I have zero experience with transmissions but I am mechanically minded and typically successful when pointed in the right direction. I have a '65 with the ST400 transmission. Based on a previous thread I have determined that the transmission is a BR code out of a 66. In addition, for some unknown reason when the transmission was rebuilt by the previous owner they installed a single wire case connector instead of dual so I do not have switch picth control and at present do not know if the option is even still installed in the case. As for the issue...the transmission will not come out of 1st gear. Here is the background info. 1. From the time I bought the car 3 years ago, there has always been a slight shutter when shifting from 1st to 2nd especially under load. 2. The transmission would never kick into passing gear but I had a long list of things I had been working on and I never paid it much attention. Last week it kicked into passing gear for the first time but I could not get it to do it twice. 3. The next day I went for a drive and it kicked into passing gear but when I stopped and then started again it wouldn't shift pass 2nd. I shifted manually through all three gears and then it acted normal for the next 10 miles. Then, when accelerating from a stop light it wouldn't shift pass 2nd again. I could shift it manually through all three gears again but it would not shift automatically. 4. Took it out the next day and it would not shift pass 2nd. In addition, I could no longer shift through all three gears manually. 5. I have good vacuum so I changed the modulator yesterday. I took it for a spin and now it will not come out of 1st gear. 6. I was thinking that the kick down solenoid might be stuck but with the engine off and the key on I can hear the kick down solenoid actuate when I push the accelerator to full throttle. So what's next? Does this sound like an issue with the kick down solenoid, govenor, vacuum modulator or valve body? I would think I could deal with any of these issues with the trans in the car? If it is beyond that I think the trans shop is my best bet but would like some advice first. If I need a rebuild what should I expect to pay? Sorry for the long post...let me know your thoughts. Thanks - Ron<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

I have no issues looking for a reputable transmission shop but I always hate giving up a chance to save some money and learn something at the same time. Admittedly I have zero experience with transmissions but I am mechanically minded and typically successful when pointed in the right direction. I have a '65 with the ST400 transmission. Based on a previous thread I have determined that the transmission is a BR code out of a 66. In addition, for some unknown reason when the transmission was rebuilt by the previous owner they installed a single wire case connector instead of dual so I do not have switch picth control and at present do not know if the option is even still installed in the case. As for the issue...the transmission will not come out of 1st gear. Here is the background info. 1. From the time I bought the car 3 years ago, there has always been a slight shutter when shifting from 1st to 2nd especially under load. 2. The transmission would never kick into passing gear but I had a long list of things I had been working on and I never paid it much attention. Last week it kicked into passing gear for the first time but I could not get it to do it twice. 3. The next day I went for a drive and it kicked into passing gear but when I stopped and then started again it wouldn't shift pass 2nd. I shifted manually through all three gears and then it acted normal for the next 10 miles. Then, when accelerating from a stop light it wouldn't shift pass 2nd again. I could shift it manually through all three gears again but it would not shift automatically. 4. Took it out the next day and it would not shift pass 2nd. In addition, I could no longer shift through all three gears manually. 5. I have good vacuum so I changed the modulator yesterday. I took it for a spin and now it will not come out of 1st gear. 6. I was thinking that the kick down solenoid might be stuck but with the engine off and the key on I can hear the kick down solenoid actuate when I push the accelerator to full throttle. So what's next? Does this sound like an issue with the kick down solenoid, govenor, vacuum modulator or valve body? I would think I could deal with any of these issues with the trans in the car? If it is beyond that I think the trans shop is my best bet but would like some advice first. If I need a rebuild what should I expect to pay? Sorry for the long post...let me know your thoughts. Thanks - Ron

Definitely a variable pitch pan by your description. I guess I will drop the pan and see what is lurking on the inside. Would the transmission function without the variable pitch wired up?

Ed, Thanks for the reply. Since the transmission was rebuilt before I bought the car and I only have one terminal on the switch at the side of the transmission, I thought it might be best to figure out which transmission I have. The tag has the following information on it: BR 66 112198. 442 is stamped above these numbers. I assume the year code is 66. Is this still a variable pitch transmission? If so, I assume I need to drop the pan to see if the wire for the variable pitch is laying inside the trans body. Is it possible they would be trying to drive control for both kick down and variable pitch from a single wire? There is only a connection for kick down on the switch at the side of the transmission even though the connector coming from the carb has both wires present. Also, can you explain how the detent and stator switches work in conjunction with each other in layman's terms? Is the play in the linkage at the location of the detent switch normal? Sorry for all the questions! Ron

I believe I have the gear box and pitman arm from a 71. The gear box had recently been replaced before the car was parked and eventually parted out. Send me a PM with your contact info. Thanks - Ron

For the sake of future searches on this topic I decided to place my question here rather than start a new thread. The down shift on acceleration has never functioned on my car. I recently completed several adjustments after my carburetor rebuild and out of no where the other day the transmission kicked down on full throttle. Great news I thought and than I realized the car was now stuck in 2nd gear. I was able to limp it home by shifting manually but after a few miles I couldn't get it to go into 3rd gear. I checked all of the connections today and adjusted the detent and stator switches as discussed in the manual. The car shifts automatically through all gears but again it will not kick down. A few questions... 1. I noticed a lot of play in the linkage where the detent switch is mounted. I assume this is not normal and needs to be corrected. Any advice? Are there bushings available or do I just need to visit my local Lowes store and find something that will work? 2. I am confused as to how the detent switch would open upon full acceleration. Is the cam it rides on flat on one side? 3. With regard to the connector at the transmission, I have 12v on one wire at all times and the other has 12v on full acceleration. The solenoid functions on full acceleration so it appears to be okay. My question is why I have two wires coming to the transmission but only one hooks up to anything. Do I have a newer style switch or the wrong switch? Sorry for so many questions but I do not know a lot about transmissions and would love to learn how this is suppose to function. The transmission was rebuilt before I bought the car and seems to function normal in all other ways. I appreciate any assistance. Thanks! Ron

After a lot of searching I chose to buy a 2x8 sheet of quarter sawn walnut veneer with the PSA backing. Once I cut the pieces out, I coated each piece with two coats of clear Watco oil. I let it dry for a couple of days and then sprayed the pieces with two coats of clear polyurathane. I let that dry a couple of days and then masked the door panel pieces and sprayed the black pinstripes. I removed the masking and top that with two more coats of polyurathane and installed them. I'm not positive they would meet the close scrutiny of a judge but I am restoring the car for me and I think they look great! The car is parked in the gararge so prolonged sun exposure is not an issue. Total cost was less then $100 and maybe 4-5 hours of my time. No guarantee's but I'll bet I'm still satisfied with the results 10 years from now.

I got mine at O'Rielly Auto Parts about 6 months ago. Seems like the diefference in price between new and rebuilt was less than $30 bucks. It was an easy decision!

Welcome to the forum! I live in the Raleigh area as well and have been working on a '65 for a couple of years now. If there is anything I can do to help just let me know. Lots of knowledgable folks here with great advice. Ron

Rob, I will have to check tonight but I believe I have the harnesses and the correct trim plates for the vent option. I do not have the vent motors or the switches. Let me know if you have an interest. Thanks, Ron

'65 Manual says 10-13 ft lbs. My new gasket is installed and I will check under the car in a few days to see how I made out with the cork gasket. In the end only one hole on the pan was slightly indented but on the opposite side from the leak.

Thanks guys...I will purchase a cork gasket tomorrow.

Quick question on the gasket. I replaced my cork gasket about two years ago with a rubber one. Did fine for about a year and it began to leak again. The pan appeared to be in good shape but the rubber gasket was definitely thinner than the cork one. I would suspect the thicker cork gasket is more forgiving if there are any issues with the pan. Any advice on the best gasket to use or should I just remove the pan and double check to insure it is not bent? The leak is definitely coming from the pan. Thanks - Ron

I sent you a PM. Thanks - Ron

Sorry Bob...I do not know the spacing or distance. I haven't mounted my trim yet. Should be easy to figure out if you have the trim pieces in hand. Dick Sweeney or others may weigh in. I wouldn't be surprised if Dick has documented the exact locations of the clips. The picture I provided was of one of Dick's vehicles that I took a photo of when I was in California a couple of years ago. Good Luck!

With the exception of the longest piece mounted below the door, everything is held in place with screws. The long piece is held in place with screws and clips (look like stamped fender washers) as seen in the picture. There is a lip on the back of the long piece that rests on these clips. I believe CARS has them available (Part Number MC-99). Hope this helps. - Ron