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Joe Cocuzza

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Everything posted by Joe Cocuzza

  1. You will need a pencil trace of the VIN # for Pa DMV unless you can bring the car to the DMV for VIN verification. That is for out-of-state titles. I know because I live in Pa. and I have bought cars from other states and they require the VIN trace.
  2. Thanks for the reply. I hope I do get a lot of opinions so I can weigh the response(s) and make an informed decision.
  3. Forgot to mention..... Went to car today and took these pics AND jumped the dead battery and got it running. Runs excellent - no smoke,noises, etc. So the car can and has been driven so it is roadworthy.
  4. Here are some pics. The white stuff on the door panels is just mildew which comes right off.
  5. My good friends in law has a 60 Lark Deluxe 4-door wagon he is willing to sell to me. It is ALL original and has what appears to be 21K original miles It is rust & rot free and still wears its original black paint. Has a few small dings here and there. The interior is original (red) and is in very good to excellent condition needing only to be cleaned. It has the 6 cylinder and 3 speed trans. and runs and drives very well. Can someone tell me a ballpark figure as to what to pay for this car. I do not have any pictures - maybe tomorrow. That will help evaluate the cars condition.
  6. Did you you remove the lower clutch pan cover 1st? That and the bell housing are 2 separate pieces and you need to remove the lower pan first. Also, because there are guide pins for the bellhousing sometimes you may need to use a large flathead screwdriver and wedge it between the engine block and the bellhousing and tap the screwdriver in with a hammer (gently) to back the housing off of the guide pins. Also, if you have a jack under the bellhousing you may have to relieve the pressure from the jack on the bellhousing so it is not cocked.
  7. Can't argue that. I usually do it your way but I neglected to mention the soaking part.
  8. That thin walled sleeve houses the throw-out bearing. You will have to have the new throw-out bearing pressed on to that sleeve. It is not "attached" to the transmission. When assembled the bearing end goes towards the clutch and the other end gets attached to the clutch fork. I believe there should be clips that hold the sleeve to the fork. Then the input shaft of the tranny goes through the sleeve/bearing and into the clutch disc/plate. Joe
  9. C Carl is correct. Before you try to turn the engine over or start the car here are a few tips: 1. Drain the oil and drop the oil pan and clean the pick-up and the pan - there is probably a good amount of sludge. Change the oil filter. Refill engine with new oil 2. Drain the radiator and the engine block - flush them out to remove rust and other stuff. Change the thermostat, hoses, etc. Refill with new antifreeze 3. Remove all of the spark plugs (label the wires so you know where they go) and squirt oil/WD 40 into each cylinder. Then turn the engine over - BY HAND - for several revolutions and then do it over again. Do this with the plugs out - it's easier to turn the engine. 4. Either clean the plugs,points,rotor and cap OR better yet just get new ones. 5. You might want to also remove the valve covers and pour some oil over the entire valve train. This will lubricate all of the rockers, etc and avoid them being "dry" when you go to start the car. 6. When all of the above are done and everything is back together you should crank the engine over for about 15-20 seconds or so, with the starter, BEFORE actually trying to get it to start so that you develop some oil pressure - if there is an oil gauge watch it as you are cranking the engine to see if pressure registers. Doing this will get oil to all of the moving parts before starting the car. (HINT - you can do this with the plugs out, too. It is less strain on the battery and starter) 7. Be patient as rushing into things could be - as stated above - VERY costly. BTW, I have some parts for your car - I will send you an email.
  10. Do you have a picture of what you need? Joe
  11. Okay. I looked under my car tonight and the fork does go between the shifter rods. The drive shaft is a flange mount and after removing the 4 screws that hold the u-joint to the tranny you can put a screwdriver in between the u-joint and where it mounts to the tranny and pry it back. There is enough play so that you can then pull the driveshaft off the tranny and swing it out of the way. There is no need to remove/disconnect the rear u-joint - unless you want to replace it. Be careful that the u-joint end caps don't fall off - they sometimes do - while you are fiddling around with the driveshaft. If they do come off make sure that when you put them back on that all of the needle bearings are in place.
  12. I will have to take a look at my car to see how the fork is positioned but I am not home until tomorrow morning. Do you suspect that the linkages are not connected correctly? I think they can only go one way. Like I said before - once the fork is put into place that is where it will be - it cannot go anywhere else.
  13. Before I try to answer that I wanted to tell you some other things. This is all going by memory so bear with me... As far as the bellhousing removal goes I believe besides the 4 main bolts there may be(2)7/16" long bolts that go up through the bellhousing and into the engine block from the bottom. They should be above the crossmember - just look underneath. Also, there are 2 brackets that mount to the housing that are attached to the engine block so they need to be disconnected. AND when you remove the 2 bolts that hold the rear motor mounts to the crossmember you need to support the rear of the engine with a floor jack or whatever you deem suitable otherwise the engine will drop down and - well you know. I would also, at this time replace the rubber upper/lower rear motor mounts you are removing because they get old/brittle and squished. Might as well do it now. AND I would look at the front motor mount as the same thing happens to that one, too. It is located under the water pump and it is bolted to the engine mount bracket. see attachment. As far as your question - bellhousing goes on - fork with throwout bearing goes on and through the seal. You can put the bearing on either before or after the fork is in the seal. You will have room to work with it. For aligning the clutch disc I used a piece of, I believe, 1/4" (I can't really remember the exact size) PVC pipe inserted and then snugged everything up. Bernbaums sells a clutch aligning tool for $9.00. If you want to go my route just fit a piece of PVC pipe into the clutch disc before you mount it to see what size you need.
  14. Not normally. However, given the fact that the return spring is gone maybe the fork rod was not straight and then the clutch pedal was pushed. The fork rod may have hit the fork itself at a weird angle and disengaged the bearing from the fork.
  15. No the fork should NOT be on its side. It looks as if the fork has been seperated from the throwout bearing. When the clutch fork and return spring are attached there should be about 1/4" play where the fork rod goes into the fork. You can adjust the play by turning the threaded end of the fork rod. As far as where the fork should be you will know when you reattach it to the throwout bearing and assemble everything- it can only be in one position. One other thing - there should be a rubber or leather seal that attaches to the bellhousing and then the fork goes through it. That is there to keep "stuff" out. It attaches to a rectangular metal frame - looks like yours is missing - and then that attaches to the bellhousing in the opening where the fork goes into it. Look at the pic and look at the clutck fork and you will see the seal. Try Andy Bernbaum for those parts or maybe they can tell you where to get them
  16. Dropping the trans is fairly easy. It should take around an hour. 1- Disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission 2- Disconnect the shift linkages and emergency brake cable bracket - (I leave the cable connected to the bracket) 3- If there are any electrical connections to solenoids, etc remove and LABEL them so as not to miswire later 4- Remove speedo cable from tranny 5- There should be 4 bolts that hold the tranny to the bellhousing. Put a floor jack under the tranny and remove the bolts keeping a little upward pressure on the tranny with the jack. Then slide the floor jack and tranny toward the rear of the car. It should slide out easily. If it doesn't then either lift or lower the floor jack accordingly to relieve the pressure on the input shaft of the tranny. 6- Remove the bellhousing from the engine - then everything is accessible. Oh yeah. All Chrysler products of that era (I'm pretty sure) have a removable floor pan that just bolts in. I suggest you pull the carpet back (or remove it) and remove the bolt-in floor pan as this will make it so much easier to work from the top instead of from the bottom of the car. I would suggest that while the floor pan is out you check the brake master cylinder for leaking and if you wanted to remove/rebuild it NOW would be the time. Joe
  17. It is no more difficult than changing the parts in a standard shift car. I did my 47 Chrysler - clutch disc, throw-out bearing , etc - in my garage with no special tools, etc In my car's case there was a Fluid coupling (looks like a torque converter) which rides on the transmission input shaft. But once it was removed then everything else is just like a standard shift car. Removing the coupling just involved removing the transmission and the coupling. So I would try to keep it original as it looks like a nice original car and modifying it, in my opinion, will hurt it - aesthetically and value-wise. Also, if I am incorrect on the Dodge Fluid Drive system being similar to the Chrysler one someone will correct me - hopefully without taking me to task. Joe This is from the P15-D24.com website: I would recommend you take a look there, too "Fluid Drive Fluid Drive was a $25.00 option available on the Doges, DeSotos and Chryslerss. Besides the cool looking Fluid Drive script on your rear deck, what did you get? Fluid Drive is a torque converter, that is, it converts engine torque and transfers it to the transmission via a fluid medium. The idea is simple. Imagine two electric fans facing each other. If you turn on one fan the air pressure created will cause the blades of the facing fan to spin. In this example, the fluid medium is air. The Dodge Fluid Drive works in a similar manner. The torque converter coupling is bolted to the flywheel. Inside the torque converter coupling are two "fans" facing each one another. The entire torque converter is filled with a special fluid. As the engine turns one set of fan blades (called vanes) is driven, forcing the fluid against the vanes of the facing unit. This causes that unit to turn which drives a standard clutch and pressure plate assembly. The power is then transmitted down the drivetrain to the rear wheels just like the standard drivetrain. The advantage of Fluid Drive is there is no direct mechanical connection between the engine and drive train. This translates into a very smooth power transfer and resulting smooth ride. It also provides some unique and interesting features. For example, to shift into gear you would put the clutch in just like a regular three speed. However if you are idling at a traffic light you can let the clutch out and the car won’t stall! That’s because at idle not enough energy is being transferred from the front vanes to the rear vanes. As you step on the gas the pressure increases and the rear vanes start to spin, transferring energy to the drive train. You would then shift gears like a normal three speed. You can also start in any gear. For example, you could start in third, even though the acceleration would be slow. In some ways, Fluid Drive is like a very simple automatic transmission. The units are essentially maintenance free. The only service requirement is to maintain the correct level of fluid in the torque converter coupling. A special access port is located on the passenger side floorboard on the side of the transmission hump. Remove the access door and bell housing cap. Turn the engine over until the filler bolt lines up. It is a good idea to stuff a rag around the opening so you can drop the filler bolt in the flywheel housing. The service manual recommends using a magnetic socket for the same reason. Be very careful as you fill the unit. Any spillage will always find its way to your clutch disk! After filling, make sure the filler bolt is secure with no leakage. The factory fluid was a Mopar #10 Fluid Drive fluid. Unfortunately this is no longer available. The original fluid was an ISO 32 (10W) with an anti-wear additive and an anti-foam additive which was needed to break up the foam which develops as the vanes turn in the torque converter (Fluid Drive Coupling). The non-foaming characteristics are critical because if air bubbles form the fluid will compress and power can not be transferred. Today, two replacement fluids are readily available. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is an ISO 32 fluid. However DEXRON ATF contains a seal swell additive which may swell old seals in Fluid Drives and cause a failure An alternative ATF fluid is Ford Type F fluid. It does not contain the seal swell additive. The best replacement is Universal Tractor Fluid #134. This is an ISO 32 fluid with all the properties of an automatic transmission fluid for wear, heat dissipation, and anti foam. Available at most NAPA stores in 1 and 5 gallon quantities. Obviously if you have a farm/tractor supply outlet nearby they will have it. Universal Tractor Fluid #134 has other positive characteristics including added shear strength for moving bevel cut gears under high loads similar to what is found in the old Fluid Drive transmissions. Many of today’s modern manual transmissions use the #134 fluid, not a gear lube, as the factory fill. The biggest repair problem with Fluid Drive is seal leakage where the transmission input shaft mates into the housing. Any leakage will quickly ruin the clutch disk. Repair kits are available but difficult to find. So are experienced repair personnel. Using the correct replacement fluid can go a long way in extending the service life of your unit. Otherwise the units are factory sealed. Carburetors used on Fluid Drive cars are different than the non-Fluid Drive models. The Fluid Drive adds some drag on the engine and a dashpot is used to slow throttle closing, thus preventing engine stalling. The adjustment of the dashpot and replacement of Fluid Drive seals are addressed in detail in the factory service manual. Lastly the same manual three speed transmission (Type C) is used on both Fluid and non-Fluid Drive applications with one part change. The Fluid Drive transmission has a slightly longer input shaft to accommodate the greater depth of the coupling. The shafts can easily be replaced making a standard 3 speed into a fluid drive version and vice versa.
  19. If that's a V8 then I'm a monkeys uncle.....and I'm not
  20. Joe Cocuzza


    Yeah, but did you notice that there is no title for the car?
  21. I am sure there will be more educated advice given that can help. I can only offer a simple approach to the problem. First, make sure all your grounds are tight and clean/metal-to-metal. Even check inside the bulb sockets to see if there is any oxidation and clean up the contacts. Also, is the generator working? Is it charging the battery? Normally with a generator if you rev the engine the lights will get brighter. Is that happening?
  22. What exactly do you need for the front brakes? I believe I still have the entire setup. Joe
  23. It is doable but it is a lot easier with the radiator out. It is not that difficult to remove the radiator - only 6 bolts. But if you want to leave the radiator in...First thing to do, as suggested by a good friend of mine, is to tape a piece of cardboard over the radiator to avoid damaging it. Next, remove the bolts that hold the fan to the pulley and then remove the fan and the pulley. You should now have enough room to remove the waterpump.
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