Joe Cocuzza
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Posts posted by Joe Cocuzza
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5 hours ago, TerryB said:
Probably a nice period correct shade of green that will come out when the car gets a decent detailing.
Not that anyone asked or wants/cares to know...............
According to the paint chip chart the color, Code #6, is Meadow Green
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General consensus in the BAT Comments section is that the high bidder got a "Great Deal" and "A Steal"
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Final and winning bid - $62,000.00
What does everyone think: as Howie Mandell would ask, " DEAL OR NO DEAL"?
"Maybe someone gets a deal like Joe Cocozza did on his PA."
Seeing this auction shows that I did, indeed, get the "DEAL OF A LIFETIME" on my Pierce Arrow.
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18 minutes ago, JACK M said:
I have made an offer.
Darn you guys........
I was going to tell you to go for it....
Good for you.......
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15 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:15 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
Talking about color changes on this car is kind of like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. Even if the engine is in good shape internally, it's still $10-15,000 away from being ready to drive before you even spray a drop of paint.
Fortunately, I think the car will be bought relatively cheaply and it'll make the fixing a more palatable proposition. Running and driving, even in its current colors, that's an $80,000 car. There's some room there to make improvements unless the bidding really goes crazy.
A little over 2 hours to go and high bid is $50,000........
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Me again.....
Looking at the data plate on your car under the C22SW #'S there is:
510-710
Looking at the Ditzler Paint Chips posted I see paint code 509-510 as Nordic Gray
As far as the 710 goes that could be the trim/upholstery code but I am not sure
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I could be TOTALLY wrong so I apologize beforehand if I am.......and I am not nitpicking - just contributing to the thread.
I believe your car was originally a medium to dark gray color, and was painted the color it is now, because looking at the firewall it appears that it was painted white about half way down and below the cutoff line of the white there is a gray color - which could be the original color.
Maybe if you removed the data plate in the picture the original color might be under it. Also, all of the cracking in the paint in the picture looks like a repaint and is showing a gray paint underneath in some spots.
If the pictures posted aren't playing tricks on my eyes the one showing the coil shows the coil top section being white-ish,too
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On 9/9/2023 at 9:59 PM, Steve_Mack_CT said:
"Maybe someone gets a deal like Joe Cocozza did on his PA."
Hey, I "resemble" that remark.......
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Look better with cream colored wheels???
Maybe with blackwalls because with the whitewalls there is no "separation/distinction" between the tire and the rim.
Still looks nice though.
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Maybe use car dollies under the rear wheels??
Or, loosen the adjuster cable(s), if you can
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7 hours ago, noacronym said:
Thank you. Yes I fially did maage to get on the Stude forum. Was quite a wait till they actually put the membership through. This is the plain Commander 3 on the tree sedan, with no horn ring and no power steering. If aybody is interested and saw this car on fleabay, I'm the one who finally got it, although I really wanted a 1950 Champion. I looked at a couple but they were junk. This one is not bad, although buying a car by the pictures is much like looking at real estate listings. It's never as good as the photos. First thing I did was get rid of those dumb chrome headlight domes, or whatever they're called. Turned out to be metallic paint. Wasn't too crazy about that. They didn't have metallic in 1956, best I know. If I had seen that 59 Edsel before I got mine, I'd have bought it instead. Oh, well. I'm still luckier than most folks. I have a pretty nice Studebaker and they don't.
In the listing the car looks good in the pictures. And I hope it is as nice as it looks.......
What would have scared me was that there were no pictures of underneath the car - floors, frame, etc.
Maybe you got extra pictures from the seller before you bought the car????? I know I would have asked for them. Only because they are notorious for rusting out
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As far as the "door bell" button goes, guessing what it could be for is just that - a guess. You are going to have to trace the 2 wires from it to see where they go in order to determine what it might be for.
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This leather is 93 years old and I am doing my best to preserve what's left of it.
The cracks are still there but it is now soft and I think with a few more (
20-30) applications I might be satisfied with the end result
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4 hours ago, RUDDY1 said:
Hi everybody, We are about to overhaul the car's engine.
The engine is weak, eats oil etc.
We do not yet know whether the engine has been previously rebuilt
After disassembly I can only give the dimensions.
Which engine parts company should I contact for pistons, rings, crank bearings, etc..?I hope someone can help.
Thanks
Nice car. Good luck with the rebuild.
Question: What's up
with the grille???
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Just "working" the leather a little bit.
It is very brittle and cracked in some spots but I am getting it somewhat pliable.
Lots of rubbing and kneading.
Using some stuff called Leather Love by Titanium. It is a paste (like car wax) and it kinda sorta smells like baseball glove oil.
It really does a nice job of softening up dried up old leather and it is easy to work it into the cracks.
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15 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:
Looks like a nice car with a few non stock accessories like newer hub caps, spot lights, antenna. Ok if the owner stopped there. Not so good if he made other mods or butchered things up. Have a look under the hood, and dash board for non stock parts and accessories. A few accessories are not the kiss of death but if it looks like Curly, Larry and Moe were his mechanics....
Let us not insult the greatest comedy trio of all time - The 3 Stooges
I've seen the way they worked - "When in doubt get a bigger hammer" - nothing wrong with that..........🔨🔨🔨🔨 - NYUK NYUK NYUK
Anyway - as mentioned before - look for rust,rust and more rust......
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No problem.
I am not 100% sure I am correct though.
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On 8/28/2023 at 9:56 AM, Leif in Calif said:
Definitely a rare car today! I don't want it but I appreciate seeing it!
"Chevy Chevette...it will drive you happy! "
The other "motto" expressed by many was: "You can hear them rusting in the showroom"
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This is a 52-54 Kaiser Manhattan Dragon Deluxe Hubcap. Not sure if it is exactly what you have.
What is the diameter of yours?
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Rats!!!!!! and congrats, I guess😢😢😢......
I knew someone was going to get this one before I could.
If I had the room for it I would have bought it.
Anyway, any questions just ask.
BTW, keep soaking the engine cylinders with penetrant(s) and you'll most likely be able to free it up.
However, DO NOT DROP A BATTERY IN IT AND TRY TO CRANK IT OVER BEFORE SOAKING THE CYLINDERS (AT A MINIMUM).
That can cause many, many problems. Try to turn it manually first. (socket on the crankshaft end nut, by prying the flywheel, etc)
Just don't rush things. Be patient or you'll cause more harm than good.
Also, you might want to remove the valve covers and soak the valve train.
Dropping the oil pan and cleaning it out is a must for a car that has sat.
If you need gaskets Olsen's is the place
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How much for a pair?
You can PM me with the price
Thanks,
Joe
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20 hours ago, Robert Bryan said:
Thats different than what my Trico books call for . Do you have the Original arms on the car or the Replacement Saddle arms. I do have 6 1/2" blades but i need to verify your arm type
Here's what I have.
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6 hours ago, Robert Bryan said:
Thats different than what my Trico books call for . Do you have the Original arms on the car or the Replacement Saddle arms. I do have 6 1/2" blades but i need to verify your arm type
I will take a couple of pics and post them here.
20-30
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Searching for Roller Tires - Florida
in General Discussion
Posted
You beat me to it. I was just about ready to post this.....
If I needed these it would have been perfect because they are about 15 minutes from me....but I need 18" tires