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Joe Cocuzza

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Everything posted by Joe Cocuzza

  1. It has been quite a while since any update on the 49 Caddy so here is one After getting it all cleaned up I FINALLY moved on to the mechanics. I removed all the plugs and sprayed WD-40 into each cylinder and then turned the motor by hand. Cleaned all the plugs and re-installed them. Cleaned and flushed the radiator and installed it with new hoses and thermostat. Installed new (correct) early valve cover gaskets. Drained/dropped oil pan and cleaned out about 1" of sludge. Painted and reinstalled with new gaskets. Installed new battery box with new battery Installed new: water pump fuel pump plug wires distributor cap -only cleaned the points . Ran a remote gas can to the new fuel pump and tried to start the car. It started in 1/2 a turn but I noticed (fortunately) that gas was shooting out of the vent holes on the top of the carb. Of course, it was shooting directly onto the coil and the distributor - not a good place for that. I quickly shut the motor off. So I was not sure whether or not to rebuild the carb. I had to go to NAPA about something unrelated and I mentioned this problem to the guy working the counter. Lucky for me he rebuilt carbs for 40 years and he said that there was probably something clogging the ports and that I should go home and gently tap around the carb with a small hammer to see if that helps. Well I did that and then started the car. NO LEAKS from the carb. Hurray!!!! And that motor, after running for a short time, sounded so good and was rock solid with no vibration(s)/noises/smoke whatsoever. I then dropped the gas tank. I was going to have it cleaned and sealed but I opted for a new one along with a sending unit. Haven't had the chance to install it yet - weather got cold. That's where I am at this point. After the gas tank is in I will move on to redoing the brakes and installing the new tires - probably not until the spring - but who knows.
  2. It has been quite a while since any update on the 49 Caddy so here is one After getting it all cleaned up I FINALLY moved on to the mechanics. I removed all the plugs and sprayed WD-40 into each cylinder and then turned the motor by hand. Cleaned all the plugs and re-installed them. Cleaned and flushed the radiator and installed it with new hoses and thermostat. Installed new (correct) early valve cover gaskets. Drained/dropped oil pan and cleaned out about 1" of sludge. Painted and reinstalled with new gaskets. Installed new battery box with new battery Installed new: water pump fuel pump plug wires distributor cap -only cleaned the points . Ran a remote gas can to the new fuel pump and tried to start the car. It started in 1/2 a turn but I noticed (fortunately) that gas was shooting out of the vent holes on the top of the carb. Of course, it was shooting directly onto the coil and the distributor - not a good place for that. I quickly shut the motor off. So I was not sure whether or not to rebuild the carb. I had to go to NAPA about something unrelated and I mentioned this problem to the guy working the counter. Lucky for me he rebuilt carbs for 40 years and he said that there was probably something clogging the ports and that I should go home and gently tap around the carb with a small hammer to see if that helps. Well I did that and then started the car. NO LEAKS from the carb. Hurray!!!! And that motor, after running for a short time, sounded so good and was rock solid with no vibration(s)/noises/smoke whatsoever. I then dropped the gas tank. I was going to have it cleaned and sealed but I opted for a new one along with a sending unit. Haven't had the chance to install it yet - weather got cold. That's where I am at this point. After the gas tank is in I will move on to redoing the brakes and installing the new tires - probably not until the spring - but who knows.
  3. It has been quite a while since any update on the 49 Caddy so here is one After getting it all cleaned up I FINALLY moved on to the mechanics. I removed all the plugs and sprayed WD-40 into each cylinder and then turned the motor by hand. Cleaned all the plugs and re-installed them. Cleaned and flushed the radiator and installed it with new hoses and thermostat. Installed new (correct) early valve cover gaskets. Drained/dropped oil pan and cleaned out about 1" of sludge. Painted and reinstalled with new gaskets. Installed new battery box with new battery Installed new: water pump fuel pump plug wires distributor cap -only cleaned the points . Ran a remote gas can to the new fuel pump and tried to start the car. It started in 1/2 a turn but I noticed (fortunately) that gas was shooting out of the vent holes on the top of the carb. Of course, it was shooting directly onto the coil and the distributor - not a good place for that. I quickly shut the motor off. So I was not sure whether or not to rebuild the carb. I had to go to NAPA about something unrelated and I mentioned this problem to the guy working the counter. Lucky for me he rebuilt carbs for 40 years and he said that there was probably something clogging the ports and that I should go home and gently tap around the carb with a small hammer to see if that helps. Well I did that and then started the car. NO LEAKS from the carb. Hurray!!!! And that motor, after running for a short time, sounded so good and was rock solid with no vibration(s)/noises/smoke whatsoever. I then dropped the gas tank. I was going to have it cleaned and sealed but I opted for a new one along with a sending unit. Haven't had the chance to install it yet - weather got cold. That's where I am at this point. After the gas tank is in I will move on to redoing the brakes and installing the new tires - probably not until the spring - but who knows.
  4. Here in NE Pa. it was hard to tell how much actually fell by the time I got out to start moving it because we had a wintry mix and it kind of tamped the snow down a bit - so I am saying we got around 10"-12". Weather was saying 16"-24" so they were off by a bit. At 2 AM I started to shovel a path so I could at least get one car out (it was too early to use the snow blower). I was able to get a car out at 3:30 am and went to shovel an office building I have. Returned home around 5 AM (still too early to use the blower) so I kept shoveling. Around 7 AM I started the blower but it was giving me fits (kept stalling) so I continued shoveling. By 8 AM(and 6 hours of shoveling) I was beat. AND I still didn't do the front walk, the back patio or the rest of the driveway. So I went in the house and went to sleep. Tomorrow (and the weekend) will be more shoveling time. Did I say "I am getting too old for this crap"?
  5. Thanks for all the replies/advice. Maybe I wasn't very clear in my OP about what I was asking. I DO NOT want to seal/treat the inside of the new tank as that is not recommended by the manufacturers of the sealing kits. Also, I forgot to mention that the exterior of the tank has some sort of "oily" substance on it so maybe it already has been treated to prevent it from starting to rust. If I want to paint it I would need to remove that oily stuff before trying to paint it I wanted to know if I should prep/coat/paint the OUTSIDE of the tank prior to installing it. I believe it couldn't hurt to do this but I want to know if it is worth the extra time/effort to do so. Matt is correct in that the car will be stored inside and NEVER driven in the elements (rain/snow, etc) but it will not be stored in a temp. controlled garage. However, I have a dehumidifier running to eliminate any moisture that may be present." (The original tank has/had undercoating on it and did not rust on the outside at all. It was the untreated inside that rusted)" Thanks again for all the replies. I suppose, after reading the replies, it is up to me to do as I see fit.
  6. So here's the situation...I know it is probably a matter of opinion... I bought a new gas tank for my 49 caddy. According to the seller it is made from the same type of metal as the original. I called the seller and asked if it is recommended to paint/undercoat the tank before installing it. The answer was "no". It was also stated that the new tank will "rust just like the original one because it is made from the same metal"????? Sooooooo... Should I or shouldn't I at least try to protect the tank BEFORE installing it? I am leaning towards cleaning the outside and spraying it with SOMETHING to prevent it from "rusting like the original". BTW. The original tank has/had undercoating on it and did not rust on the outside at all. It was the untreated inside that rusted.
  7. The guy driving the car on the left looks like Benny Hill................
  8. This car is less than 15 minutes from me and I have been thinking about going to look at it. I certainly do not need another one....
  9. Look on Ebay. There are quite a few. Maybe the one you need is listed Joe
  10. https://www.ebay.com/i/114393673732?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=114393673732&targetid=4580290572086399&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=403204655&mkgroupid=1227055191472610&rlsatarget=pla-4580290572086399&abcId=9300377&merchantid=51291&msclkid=114c40707af31d7daf471f02d39a2181 REPRO ONE ON EBAY
  11. So now my friend and I are going to move this car to his house. The owner needs the garage space. We are going to install a new battery and some gas. The last time we ran it I believe it ran out of gas. I am going to drive it the 10 miles or so to put it into storage (I have a "car capsule" that I am loaning my friend). I am still VERY interested in this wagon and now that the owner needs his garage maybe I can get it for a price more in tune with my thoughts. Plus, the car hasn't moved since we last went there - May of 2019
  12. Good for the seller and I hope for the purchaser, too. Maybe it was bought for a really good price as the ad said "HAVE TO SELL". In all honesty if I had some room I would have given it a look, too.
  13. I observed the following: There is overspray in the wheel wells as well as on the rocker panels (inside the front door jambs). It almost looks like the green was sprayed over the white paint. Also, if you look at the inside door area of the rear doors you can see where the green and white paint was taped off and painted green. It does not look like factory applied paint. Not sure if this was originally a 2-tone car. It could very well be. Also, need to see some pictures of the underside.
  14. Here's the link to the P15-D24 procedure: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/
  15. Joe Cocuzza

    JD

    Maybe even using a hair dryer to heat them up to make them softer.
  16. Joe Cocuzza

    JD

    You should be able to slide the rubber end caps, the ones on the ends of the wires that go to the distributor cap, over the ends of the wires and then feed the wires through. Then replace the end caps.
  17. "I had several quotes all around the $10k range and a 6 month to 3 year time frame" I tried to warn you (just kidding) I had a feeling it was going to be "crazy" Joe
  18. Nice little car BUT.....it looks good at 1st glance. Can you say - overspray,overspray,overspray There is a bunch of overspray in the engine compartment and on/in the interior , etc. Look closely and it is everywhere - even on the radiator. If someone is going to "freshen" things up at least either mask off the surrounding areas or remove the parts (where possible) that you don't want to get paint on. Seems like the freshening was done in a hurry - which raises my alarm antenna Also, I spotted some rust in the rear wheel wells. If anyone is interested in this car I would really look it over carefully.
  19. Thanks vintage1. Olsons made the gaskets for me and they are on their way. Joe
  20. Has the car been sitting for some time? When you rotate the engine does it turn and then stop when it gets to that #6 valve or can you keep turning it? You don't want to force anything if it stops turning. That can cause damage. You may have a stuck valve, too. Be patient!!!!! I see a lot of rust on that lifter and I know it's a tight fit in there but you might try to clean it up as best as you can with a wire brush or ???? Try mixing acetone and transmission fluid and soak that lifter by squirting the mixture directly on it. You probably won't get enough lubrication on it by pouring it from the top. From what I can see in the photos there is a lot of "gunk" in this engine. You need to clean up all that old gummed up residue before you try to restart the car. Also, I would drop the oil pan and clean it out along with the oil pump pick up screen. The pan probably has an inch or more of goo and the sump screen is probably clogged. Also, there are "wells" that sit under the lifters (you can see the raised sides of them in the pics) and they more than likely are filled with the same goo. You need to clean those out, too. They are oil collection pools that lubricate the lifters. All of this goo and gunk is caused by carbon and dirt buildup inside the engine. Back in the day non-detergent oils were used and this was the result. The valves/lifters are oil lubricated. If all else fails in your attempt to free up that valve/lifter then pulling the head is the next step. Hope this helps. Joe
  21. I forgot... I would also be interested in the fuel pump heat shield and the engine block breather down tube - the one under the manifolds. Joe
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