Bill Harmatuk
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Posts posted by Bill Harmatuk
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I don't think North Carolina ever required a front and back license of the same number. Just a rear plate. I may be wrong.
I have a small NC plate collection and most of the plates I have found myself. Never have I seen duplicates nailed to the barn.
Good luck.
Bill H
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Is there any parts that might interchange.
Wheels or transmission??
Thanks
Bill Harmatuk
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What really caught my eye is... Every car is painted black or some dark color very close to black.
Bill H
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Change the rubber diaphragm between the carburetor and gas tank.
Its a simple job.
Remove tank and disconnect throttle linkage.
Use a phillips screw driver to disconnect carb from tank.
The rubber gasket has an indentation where a round ring and spring sit. This acts as a fuel pump that works off of vacuume from the motor.
Good luck.
Put the whole mower on a table to work on it. It will save your back and knees.
While you have the shroud / recoil starter off.... Clean the flywheel outer surface with fine sand paper. Clean the coil surfaces also.
Gap the coil to flywheel with a paper match book flap.
Bill H
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John
The place that sells the replacement mechanism for the roll up windshield is The Filling Station.
I bought one and it is spot on for a 30 CJ-6. I have not installed it. That is another project. Replace and assemble.
I can do pictures if someone wants.
Bill H
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Who can do a show car job on 4 of these wheels.??
I hate to do anything to them. They are only old once.
Thanks in advance. I don't own a gold mine.
Bill H
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Speedway motors kit is too big. Water pump and hard pipe 90 is 1 1/4 OD. 2 Rubber Hoses are, 1 1/4 ID.
Dosen't duplicate the original design and look.
John Keiser has my configuration, almost.
Bill H
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Old Topic but.
I need a lower radiator pipe / tube for my 30 Chrysler CJ and have been doing some leg work.
Sharpe Products has a 300.00, set up fee, plus the cost of making the tube. NOPE !
I purchased, from an electrical supply store, a long radius 1 1/4 EMT, 90 degree elbow and it is close to what I need. 7.00. I could make it work with some heating, bending and cutting to size.
The Filling Station, which has a lot of old Chevrolet parts has the lower hard pipe, 1 1/4, for 24.50. I just ordered one. Says it is a special bend, which it is. Its not a 90 degree. Picture looks identical. Long on one end and short on the other.
I'll let you know if it works in a few days when I receive it.
This part has been beating me up. Muffler shops claim they can't make the long radius 90. Go figure.
In the picture I'm measuring the center line radius.
FYI
Bill H
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With research and leg work, and the great resource of, "Plymouth, The First Decade", I was able to go to the NAPA store and buy almost exact replacement brake hoses for my 30 Chrysler. I cross refrenced a 30 Plymouth Model U.
NAPA had them in 3 days. Bought all the (3 sizes), of copper washers, also.
Made in China.
Bill H
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Thanks, Mark.!!
Bill H
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Picture of transmission, please.
Will you sell trans. separate??
Bill H
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Im going with the standard flare. What ever that is.
I'm thinking that the male taper and the female taper on the fittings will squeeze the brake line to the taper that it needs.... not to leak.
Hoping for that, any way.
I'm using the copper / nickel, cunifer brake line. Napa has it. Easy to work with.
Good luck.
I'm running brake lines also.
Going to Napa this morning for copper washers and to see if they can match up brake hoses.
Bill H
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Just disassembled my !030 Chrysler water pump and cleaned the gland nut.
I have NOS lead packing and I have new- fangled graphite industrial packing.
I can get the bees wax teflon, if need be.
The shaft is surprisingly smooth where the packing makes contact.
Whats the best to preserve the shaft from where??
I'm not worried about a drip every now and then either.
Dont worry.
I used to pack pumps for a living.
Just asking.
Bill H
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Thanks so much, Carl.
My wheels are from a 1930 Chrysler CJ-6, 4 door sedan. It was taken apart by me back in 1977 and I am just now putting back together. A prime example of "Easy to take apart". The car was sanded to bare metal for a parade back in the 60's....( NOT ME ) but someone painted over bare metal without primer. When I got it, it was a basket case. Flakes of paint coming off. Partially dismantled but all there. I've had the car for 35 years.
I can't begin to tell you the parts I have collected and have already had restored and not to mention new items. Just now putting it back together.
I think as of now I am going to take the brake drum off only. I don't want to monkey with factory tolerances as to the hub. If I can loosen the hubs, I will, but just enough to be able to sand and paint the outer edge of the hub. Not the underside of the hub.
I hope I can remove the bolts easily for bead blasting. I am prepared for the masking and exacto knife.
My main concern was the brake hub. Absolutely no way to get to it with out removing.
Thanks for the help and wisdom.
Bill H
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Thats what I needed.
The CJ came with natural wood spokes. Not Painted. Im gonna leave them natural. They are only natural once. It would be a sin to paint. Never saw a pinstripe either on the spokes.
I am prepared for the tedious job.
Great idea about removing the brake drum and loosen the bearing carrier / hub. Ill mark the position of the hub to wheel before I remove.
I saw a picture of a stand to mount the wheel, on a spindle, for sanding, prep.and painting. I'll find a comfortable chair to sit in.
Thanks so much for answering. Looks like you've been there. Done that.
Education is cheap. Screw ups are expensive.
Thanks again.
Bill H
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There are no dumb questions.
Do I have to un bolt the brake hubs and bearing carriers to paint these wheels?? (Yes).
I know I am not the first to do this and would like some honest advice.
What do I need to look out for and or be careful with??
I am NOT going to disturb the fellows / spokes.
All 4 wheels are in excellent condition except for paint.
The spokes / fellows, will stay natural.
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That was quick. ! !
The company called and said to send the brake cylinders back.
They will make it right. Re-machine the seats.
A PLUS for Apple Hydraulics. You don't see that kind of CUSTOMER SERVICE any more.
I wasn't going to use their name I'm Happy.
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After searching on the AACA forum about copper crush washers for the banjo fittings on my brake cylinders and the common cause of leaking brakes, I did a little inspection on my rebuilt and re-sleaved, wheel cylinders. (1930 Chrysler CJ-6)
To my GREAT dismay...... The seats on the brake cylinder for the bleeder valve to seal against, are cut all to, well, heck. There is no way they won't leak. There is no smooth seat for the hardened bleeder seat to make contact with when bleeding the brakes.
I have already contacted the rebuilding company. No answer yet. It is one of the most common rebuild / re-sleaving companies. 340.00 worth of parts and labor, for the cylinders alone.
I asked them if they could cut new seats, also.
A Question.
I found a new set of wheel cylinders but they are stepped. The originals are 1 1/4 bore end to end. The replacements are 1 1/4 and 1 3/8 bore.
What difference would the one smaller diameter, 1/8 of an inch, make and how should the smaller bore be orientated on the backing plate.??
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Thanks for all the info. The diagrams and pictures. Im running a BB-1 that came off a running, 30 Chrysler, CJ-6, that was being rodded.
I've been debating on weather to send the carburetor to be rebuilt professionally or do it myself.
You can't beat a man at his own trade.
Bill H
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Where can I locate about a dozen or less of these hinge bolts, specific to 29, 30 Chrysler front doors.
They are slotted head. not Phillips.
Thanks in advance.
Bill Harmatuk
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Top, Right Front Corner
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Absolutely beautiful automobile.
I have a 1930 CJ-6 in a million pieces. Getting ready to paint the chassis and first coat of primer on the body.
As far as I know the top frame work fits into the body as one unit and is held with machine screws around the perimeter.
I have not seen anything welded. I do know the wooden frame has metal L brackets at each top corner. The triangular bracket on either side of the windshield top is part of the body structure and I don't think you should remove it to remove the top framework.
My roof framework came out as one unit. Chicken wire and everything.
You do not have to cut rivets and remove the triangular bracket.
It doesn' look like the original set up. The front section looks like a beefed up repair.
If you private message me I will send pictures. I will have to send pictures from my I-Phone. I will try to post here also.
One of my E mail addresses is
harmatukbill@gmail.com.
Thanks for the picture of your car. Mine is a 4 door also.
By the way. The Filling Station, (for Chevrolets), has the complete gear drive, new, for the roll up windshield. If your is broken.
Your crank hole cover is VERY expensive. I need one.
Replace the roof and leave the car as is and enjoy. Original cars are all the rave now.
Bill H
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Keep it.
It ain't eating anything.
You will be sorry if you let someone beat you out of it. The money you get for it won't last a farting spell.
To find a car like that and get it in that condition..... you would have an easy 6-8 thousand in it not including the cost of a project and your time.
Ask me how I know.
Bill H
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Is the transmission still available??
harmatukbill@gmail.com
New Bern, NC
I know what it is, but what was it used for?
in Memorabilia, Toys, Art, Signs, Clothing and Printed Material
Posted · Edited by Bill Harmatuk (see edit history)
I'm not being a wise A&$.... But. Could it be a urinal for when you don't or can't stop.?? Motorists did strange things way back then. Was it a gimmick sold at service stations or truck stops.??
That opening looks like it has some sharp edges.
Just saying.
Bill H