Mark_Kurth

Every 111 fan has their favorite, but my preference is for the 250 SE. They still have many of the design details of the early 220 models (small hubcaps with separate trim rings, low buckets w/out headrests, full wood binnacle, high grill), but also have 4-wheel disks and get a little more hp from the larger engine. They're very well built, easy to drive, and reliable if well-maintained. We've owned ours for nearly 10 years and wouldn't part with it. Coupes, in my view have been way undervalued relative to the cabs and good originals can still be found, if you're patient.

West, my post (which you edited) wasn't meant to insult Cynthia. Like Packard32, I felt she may be sincerely unaware of the potential value of her car and in need of help to establish a realistic sale price. As I said previously, I would recommend she have the car evaluated by a knowledgeable Packard appraiser to determine a true market value. Certainly you're not suggesting that a seller can set any price they wish without regard to typical market values and still hope to sell a car?! I think it is a disservice to families who may have inherited cars they have little knowledge of not to assist a sale by sharing the knowledge we have regarding the market value of our cars.

Sunray Restorations in Dowagiac, MI has probably done more high-quality Packard restorations than any other midwestern shop. They're a small operation, that only turns out a few projects a year, but have been doing it for a long time. Bill Godisak is a master of all things Packard, but he's not much on email. Give him a call if you want to discuss your project. 269-424-6265.

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Here's a Gilera-- a '67 125 SS model sold by Sears, under the Allstate brand. I was given this as a ROUGH roller, by a friend who couldn't stand to see it go to the scrap pile when they cleaned out his late uncle's garage. On the vintage market, they're not worth the cost of an oil change, but I put some time into getting it running and refinishing the bodywork. It's turned out to be a fun little bike that's delivers a lot of pleasure for what I've got in it.

That's the type of installation I was thinking about, Rick. Overflowing being a concern, I'd thought of using a momentary (starter-type) switch to run the pump. It's possible to refill the Stewart tank by pouring fuel through the plug on the top, but an electric pump would be a convenience-- especially if we're stopped along the roadside. hchris, switching to a vac tank with a greater storage capacity is an interesting option, but I've never seen anything available that's larger than the one currently in my Packard. There's really not enough room on the firewall to accommodate a longer tank , so I don't believe lengthening the stock unit would be feasible. Any other modification is going to be substantially more difficult to accomplish.

Good point James. We used the 626 in the Adirondacks last Fall without any starvation problems, so you may well be correct in speculating that the climbs in NM won't be long enough to starve the vacuum tank. I lean toward sticking with the vacuum system. In my experience, electric fuel pumps can cause a problem as often as they correct one.

The subject of electric fuel pumps has been addressed before, but my question relates specifically to using an in-line pump with the factory (Stewart) vacuum-tank. My '29 Packard 626 still runs great with its original vacuum-tank fuel system. I've had no issues with stalling or hard-starting, caused by vapor-lock. However, this summer, we plan to attend the CCCA Caravan in New Mexico. I've been told that high altitude driving and long climbs can challenge a vacuum system. Several have recommended that I consider installing an electric pump as a precautionary measure. The Packard's vacuum fuel system has proven to be very reliable in my experience, so I have no desire to replace it entirely. I am considering adding an in-line electric pump, activated by a push-button momentary switch that could be used to refill the vacuum tank- in the event of starvation caused by low engine vacuum. Has anyone done this type of installation? My concerns are: Will the Stewart vacuum system pull through an electric pump? Is there a danger of overflowing the vacuum tank fuel reservoir, or will the internal float prevent it? What would be an ideal pump pressure? How well are currently available electric fuel pumps holding up to modern gas? Specific recommendations for a 6 volt, pos-ground pump? Thanks. Your experiences and recommendations are appreciated!

The two-door Super Deluxe was produced in lower numbers than any of the other 23rd-series models-- including the convertible. Besides the eggcrate grill, 23rd-series Supers shared the longer 127 wheelbase with the Custom. The added length ahead of the windshield really helps the proportions, in my view. Yes, the bumper is incorrect, but otherwise the car looks remarkably complete. Items like the long quarter-panel trim are unique to two-doors (and convertibles) and hard to come by. A few years ago I acquired a photo of one of these Super Eight coupes, modified for stock-car racing and sponsored by a Milwaukee Packard Dealership. Judging by the photo, the car probably wasn't more than a couple of years old at the time. A neat-looking racer, but looking back, it seems kind of a shame considering how scarce that body style is today. Someone needs to buy that car! lol

Man, is PAC ever going to get it with regard to scheduling their National meets during the hottest time of the year? What about September or even early October? There are so many places that would make great venues for a National, but not in mid-July! Driving a 75 year old car through Gettysburg vacation traffic in 90+ degree heat-- no thanks!

Thanks all for the responses. I'll give it another shot with NOS gaskets and a little less torque on the nuts. Dave, I'll send you a pm regarding the gasket sets. Any thoughts on the use of anti-seize or copper coat? Seems it might allow for more slip.

Ken, thanks for the lead to Olsen's. I'll try giving them a call tomorrow. What was your take on the torque spec? Jim's post made me question whether I might be over-torquing the manifolds. The brass nuts won't allow you to apply too much force, as they strip-- but maybe I'm still overdoing it. For what it's worth, the repro gaskets seem to be a lot less compressable than the originals. Could that be contributing to the problem?

Egge is a good source, but I called and their supply of NORS gaskets is tapped out. I've not been able to find a torque spec for the exhaust manifold nuts-- do you have one? It's not possible to get a torque wrench on most of the nuts as they're just not accessible, but it might help to know what I'm shooting for.

I'm having having a lot of trouble with exhaust manifold gaskets on both of my straight eights, failing within a few hundred miles of being installed. What's occurring is that the gaskets seem to "creep" with repeated heating and cooling cycles, until they eventually develop tears that become blow-outs. It's happened with both of my Packards ('29 626 w/ a 1-pc manifold and 23rd series 327 w/ a two-piece). The problem seems to have become more of an issue in the last few years, since I've been using reproduction fiber gaskets (purchased from a reputable vendor, Max Merritt). Since NOS gasket sets are hard to come by, I'd like to figure out how to get the repros to work and last me more than a season. I've done what would be the obvious: checked the manifolds for straightness and they check out fine using brass nuts on the manifold studs the manifolds are re-tightened after a few hrs. of running It seems like the manifolds move slightly in relation to the block, which makes sense since they heat and cool at different rates. It's that movement though, that bunches and stretches the gaskets until they eventually tear. I don't see how they can be prevented from moving, without overtightening and risking a cracked casting. Another mechanic friend suggested a light wipe of antiseize on the gaskets might allow the movement without tearing, but that didn't improve the life of the last set. As an experiment, I'd like to get my hands on an NOS set of the sandwiched asbestos/aluminum style, for comparison. In theory, it makes sense that the original composite gaskets might have been more resistant to tearing. Any suggestions from the experts out there?

Tom, if you have a sample to match to, try a DuPont dealer that has the SpectraMaster system. Their books will have literally hundreds of green samples arranged so that you can make a good visual match. DuPont can provide the formulas for each color in most of their paint systems; base/clear, urethane single-stage, etc. We have the SpectraMaster system here at our shop. I also have an original chip for IM-168 Shirvan Green (Ditzler), as used on '29 Packard. I'm assuming it would be the same color used in 34? If you'd like, I can check for a close match later today, and forward you the DuPont number. -Mark

I had an interesting experience involving my front brakes, while I was driving my '29 Packard over the weekend. Apparently, the brake cable contacted the end of a battery cable, where it attaches to a lug that passes through the frame rail. The resulting short cut the brake cable as cleanly as if I'd used a torch. Needless to say, with one operating front brake, the car pulled wickedly the rest of the way home-- but we made it back safely. As a result, I'm looking for a source that can fabricate a new brake cable with the correct threaded ends. McMaster Carr carries the parts, but I don't have access to the swaging tool that's used to fix the ends onto the cable. I'm hoping there's a service out there that can do it. Anyone have any leads? Thank you in advance, Mark Kurth

Scanning color samples works well sometimes and is an easy first step to try, but it isn't foolproof. Sometimes a better match can be achieved by someone with a good eye for color. As a resource, you might try finding a Dupont dealer that has the Spectramaster color system. It's a massive collection of paint chips organized by color (as opposed to car make), with corresponding formulas. We find it the best way to "eyeball match" with a panel on the car, or to an original paint chip. http://dpcportalqa.asp.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/dr/s/color/spectramaster.html It's always a good idea when you think you've found a close match, to order a small quantity (1/2 pint) and spray out a large panel that you can view against the car and in various types of light. It usually takes us 2-3 samples before we settle on the best match. Once in a while, we end up mixing two samples (in carefully measured ratios) to get the right color. Metallics are even more challenging to match, because the metallic flake in modern paints is larger and more reflective than that used in our cars' original finishes. The supplier should be able to reduce or substitute a smaller metallic flake, but it will change the way the color looks and will still be more "metallic" than an original finish.

Thanks West, Kevin had what I needed. I've got my fingers crossed we won't have any surprises with this one. Best Regards, Mark

Thanks West, Kevin had what I needed. I've got my fingers crossed we won't have any surprises with this one. Best Regards, Mark

Need a '48-'54 straight eight block (or complete engine) in rebuildable condition. Ideally, located within driving distance (200± miles of Chicago). I will also be traveling to Perrysburg meet in May. Contact: Mark Kurth 219-879-8764 (home) 773-315-6667 (cell/work)

They weren't Custom Eights, they were Super Deluxe Eights. The 23rd Series Super Deluxe used the same wheelbase and egg-crate grills as the Custom. Easiest way to spot a Super Deluxe is the beltline trim. On a Custom, the trim wraps down around the lip of the trunk lid. Super Deluxe trim stops at the back edge of the roof. There are other differences (engine size being one), but they're not easy to spot. No wonder Custom Eight sales were cannibalized by the Super Deluxe- a Super cost 25% less than a Custom and looked virtually identical.

Steve, I'd be interested in purchasing what you have. Sorry I can't help with the bracket you need to mount to your Franklin. If interested, you can contact me at mkurthid@comcast.net or phone: 773-315-6667. Thank you, Mark Kurth

I'm rebuilding a 327 engine to use in my 1950 Packard. The engine is being built as a mild hop-up, with a high-compression aluminum head (Edmunds), compound carb manifold (Edmunds 2 x 2) and a mild cam. I'll store the tired original engine for the next owner when I make the switch. I'd like to use an Autolite distributor to replace the Delco unit that was on the engine originally (I have a large stock of Autolite points, caps, etc. and would prefer to stick with the Autolite components). Anyone have one they'd sell or trade for a Delco? Thanks for your help. Mark Kurth 773-315-6667

None of the literature I've seen lists an "optional" running board cover, so it's doubtful they gave customers a choice. That's not to say they didn't use both materials interchangeably though. Packards was still producing a relatively low number of cars in the 20s and early 30s- especially the higher-end models like the 645. Building in low volumes, it wasn't unheard of for them to deviate from standard specs if they ran out of something or needed to use up extra stock, by substituting a like-quality material. An example, I disassembled an original 1950 convertible top mechanism that had been built using slotted screws on the driver's side and phillips screws on the passenger side. A likely explanation is that the screw-bins on one side of the assembly line held phillips stock and on the other side, they were using up slotted stock. Restorers will argue over which is correct, but the reality is in 1950, Packard was building product to ship and screw type didn't matter- so they used what they had. A single parts book can't be considered the "last word" on authenticity either. What was listed as a replacement part didn't always match OEM material. Parts books were revised and specifications changed as newer materials were substituted for old stock. I have two parts books (different printings) for 1929 that show slight deviations in their listings. In the case of running board covers, it would have made a lot of sense for Packard to list corrugated rubber as a replacement material, if that's what was being used on then-current production- regardless of what the car was built with. That is to say, a 645 may well have been built with linoleum on the running boards, even though the replacement part was listed as corrugated rubber.

I don't think linoleum was still being used for all running boards in 1929. According to my parts book, 633, 640 and 645 called for grey corrugated roll material. Doesn't specify "rubber", but to my knowledge, linoleum isn't/wasn't available as "corrugated". The 626 called for "plain" (un-corrugated) black roll material- may well have been linoleum, but since they were using rubber on the other models, it might also have been rubber. I have some photos taken at Hershey a few years ago, of a very original, unrestored 633. The running board cover appears to be (very deteriorated) corrugated rubber. I'm not able to post, but would be happy to email images to anyone interested.