38ShortopConv.

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At the risk of breaking studs I would leave them in there. Remove flapper plate and fit 3/8" plate to compensate stud length.

I use hi-tensile bolts, grade 5 ? and nylock nuts where practical in that situation. I flip the 20225s bolt up the other way with the nylock on top. If a spring washer snaps the 20225s bolt could loose tension. I swap a nylock for the 33802s nut as well, no spring washer. Just me. Jerry, how did you make out?

The flapper plate is, the manifold appears crackless? How did you make out Gerry?

You may have to consider relocating. % # . 38 LZ mechanical brakes are great if set up right. Basics are patience, soft linings radiused to suit ark of drums and shoes centerilized as per workshop manual by adjusting big eccentric nut - thats not us ! Cables adjusted evenly, front brakes on slightly ahead of rear brakes, , and finally more patience with shoes adjusted with as little drag as possible. Otherwise reconsider relocating.

I hope the modified drain pipe clears side of pan, time will tell. Apparently the original drainpipe reaches right down into oil to avoid crank/web counterweight flicking excessive oil onto cylinder bores promoting oil burning. Theres always someone coming up with somthing isnt there. Happy Dazes. Roy

Soak it in marvel oil. Lever it off. Tap a wedge in gap both sides, leave overnight. [Looks like there are 2 little pins to knock out of shaft if you need to take flap shaft out. Flap would be seized on too.] When I bought the 38 conv. back in 96 it had one of those and it had an annoying rattle so I removed it completely and bolted the exhaust cross over pipe up tightly to the manifold flange. No rattles, no leaks, you don't actually need it. I may have fitted a 3/8" spacer plate with hole in there.

Yes, I read some years ago in an early issue of LZ magazine that same situation but don't have the mag. any more and wasn't sure how you tell if the rods are back to front. Didn't post! Now we know. Thanks 40 Zephyrsedan. Worth checking before you put that pan back on Abe.!!

Forty one Zephyr?

Should have bought it.

There should be a pin right thru from one side to other as per 40 Zephyr sedan picture. Yours could be missing altogether. The pin locates the two shafts which hold the cluster gears and reverse idler gear inside transmission. I would not drive vehicle without pin in position. The shafts could slide forward or back and gears could drop out of mesh!! The upward curve 1/2 inch in hole could be shaft has spun and pin hole is on angle .Cant figure out what the nut like shape is for in ralphnof49 pic. Those shafts all ways leak some oil! " O" rings can be fitted, the groove edges need to be shamfered to be successful otherwise the "0" Ring can be damaged during assembly. My 40 Ford G/box was done recently, runs bone dry on outside. Trans has to be dismantled to machine O ring grooves!

Open her up, heads off, inlet manifold, do a good check then drop pan. Happy Daze! Change back to new Melling m15 pump. Connecting FULL Flow filter to oil outlet will lower oil pressure. A BI-PASS Filter is usually fitted there it restricts flow, has restrictor inside. Oil to bearings is pumped direct from pump doesn't go thru filter first like modern motors. You need to be sure to fit oil pressure relief valve up front. Sounds like you have clearance problems and lack of oil pressure. Stay Home and stay focused. Cheers.

Zephyr Dave, I don't wont to find out what might happen at speed either!! Scott, the nipple closest to back of gear box lubes the U/joint. Its semi hidden in front of the frame cross member, bit hard to find. There could be a second nipple by speedo cable for top bearing. There is a nipple in center of torque tube for support bearing.

Wow! Stretched 4 door VW. back then! Twin suicide doors. Flathead V8 in back air cooled? I believe designer was German/Polish or Russian.? JB may tell us.

Hats off to Larry!

To remove door/window handles push round plate behind handles in against trim to expose pin through shaft, push pin out with 1/8 " drill bit.

The brass valve is a 12 LB. pressure restriction valve for the hydraulic lifters on 38 onward LZ. motors. It screws in at the rear of the valve valley under a 1' screw on cap. The other ball valve looks like the front oil pump relief valve on Hydraulic lifter motors. That chart should explain.... 36/ 37 LZ. don't use the brass valve. The oil pump relief valve is at the rear of the valve valley in 36/37 motors. Different pressures. What year is your motor? That chart picture shows a 36/37 LZ. motor. Confused?

Well Done. Could drain down inside cavity damping trim panel then on top of wheel well, may have another drain hole lower down. Don't think they worried where it went in those days. May be you could fit a drain hose down to under floor area. It may not leak anyway, would you have it out in the rain much though?

My 38 LZ. sedan had those flipper windows, about the only part I never got into. Looks quite interesting, quite dinky doo. Mine were sealed up so I left them alone. The rubber seal looked too difficult to obtain and replace. Did you find new rubbers? Would be a safe bet that hole in gasket is a drain, is it part of the window seal?

The slinger and rope seal is a second seal further back inside the rear main bearing. Needs machine work to crankshaft to fit this seal. Oil leaking out split pin hole can come from gearbox lay shaft leak I believe. "O" rings properly installed can cure this leak.

Can those engine stabilizer rods be rolled over 180", may have angle at front end so the engine end sits on top of engine mount. Seems logical to have weight of motor sitting direct on rubber donut with rod on top. May drop motor down though. At the end of day may not matter as long as the water pump spout or something doesn't hit front cross member. 38 LZ onward don't have them, have a stronger front engine mount and different stronger rear gear box mounting. Go Home, Stay home, Self Isolate.

Page one second March 11 post I mentioned crankshaft web oil gallery welch plugs. Before you fit pan you could check if they have been replaced. About 12. After a crank grind they should be removed and the oil sludge trap cleaned out along with any crank grindings. Theres a large hole behind them for sludge to collect, the later LZ motors didn't have them from 39? on. New plugs are pressed in, tricky job with threaded bolt and nut. Easier with motor out! Those grey felt pro head gaskets are best. Happy Days.

There are three stop positions on the metal strap, the bumps wear down, could build them up with welding but the internal springs loose tension and break anyway so best to replace with a junk yard 5 year old modern replacement. See my earlier post. Those e/bay straps didn't appear to have any mid stops. Picture gone now. The wind can catch those big doors with no mid stops when ajar and wreck the fixings. Trying to down load picture, no success yet. Cant get the grandkids in with this covid 19 corona virus around. Stay tuned

It comes down to who put the cover on? previous owner, machine shop or shade tree mechanic along the way. It looks a bit sludgy in there up against the snout flange in the picture for a new rebuild. May be not. The good thing is you have found the problem and no apparent damage done.

I would say on top at a guess. Others will know. Calling Collin Sp.