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About Mc_Reatta

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  1. Your going to have to invest in some new drill bits then. (At least TIN coated if not cobalt) Get a center punch too if you don't have one. You need to carefully drill down the center of the bolt shaft till you can seat an easy out if you can. If easy out won't work, you'll need to drill the whole bolt shaft to the point you can retap the hole or worst case, oversize the hole and tap for next larger bolt size, or use a heli-coil to restore the original threads. Where are the forum's machinists with more suggestions?
  2. Is it broken flush or is some still sticking out?
  3. Your wire goes to pin F: (page 8A 202 28 FSM)
  4. The FSM on reatta.net will show the pin-out for the connector. Don't know what year you have to look it up.
  5. Doesn't look like there is a line forming to help you out. I have the pieces to make up a cable with a connector that will plug into the radio and end in a 3.5 mm stereo plug which is what I think you probably need. I don't have a 1/4" plug but could probably find at Rat Shack, but I don't think that is the size you need anyway. What if any were the issues with the plug your son in law make for you? I've heard that the 1/8" plug Rat Shack sells is a little loose when plugged into a player and may give connection issues. Was that the case or did it work fine? I thought you had that hookup
  6. You sure the m3p end isn't 3.5 mm (slightly larger than 1/8")? That's the only size I ever seen as a headphone jack on newer portable devices. A full 1/4" plug is real old school and too large for most modern equipment. Most players like an ipod are hardly even 1/4" thick total.
  7. Dave, that's way too generous an offer. How long a cable would you want and what has to be on the m3p end?
  8. I have found a source for the C2 connector that is needed to connect to the second aux input on the top of the radio which would allow the tape input to remain in place besides getting lucky in a junk yard. Search in ebay motors for "gm harness male plug". Look for a plug that looks like the one in the attached photo. Vendor is Autoware302. C2 is the six pin right half of the bottom gray connector in the photo. Some work will have to be done to separate it from the other connector and you will have to transfer some of the pins from one of the other connectors to the proper places on this
  9. An AB switch is an option but probably not necessary as most audio devices would exhibit a high impedance on the audio output lines when turned off. You could Y several different jacks together to the same 3 connections your using now from the tape deck input to supply the signal to the radio. The radio will play the active signal from whatever device you have turned on in tape mode, and not even know you have other devices connected as well. If you have more than one turned on at the same time, it will try to mix the inputs and may be usable like a GPS voice coming in over your music playe
  10. Searching old posts discovered a listing of pinouts courtesy simplyconnected and Daniel. Added connector numbers, locations and wire colors. Second aux input requires using a C2 connector which is not readily available. Believe you need to find one in a car that had a CD or cell phone installed and utilized this connector. Connector C6 is not even shown in connector diagrams in the FSM but is in wiring diagrams. RADIO CONNECTIONS.zip
  11. Dave, The first black plug you mention is C6 from the bottom of the radio. The leads you describe are the inputs from the tape player. Chassis/shield ground, common signal ground, right channel signal, left channel signal. This is the other end of the connector you hooked your m3p jack to behind the tape deck, although for some reason the left signal wire is gray at the tape deck and brown/white at the radio end. The second black plug is I believe C1 from the top of the radio by the speaker outputs. The wires are: black power ground, pink power antenna signal, yellow is 12 volts switched,
  12. Dave, you need to get your priorities straight. You need to tell you daughter to elope, and you will buy her a Reatta as a elopement present which you will deliver right after you get it just right.
  13. Until Daniel can get a tutorial together, I will give some answers to the questions as I just put an external amp + sub-woofer upgrade as well as GPS / M3P player into my son's 89 trying to keep everything plug and play so it can be removed and all returned to stock if desired. Audio connectors are Delphi Micro-Pack. Some like the emulator for the stock radio are readily available most places that handle car audio, The one that mimics the car chassis wiring harness is a little less available but is out there. These two connectors mate together. I used one of each mostly to grab the speaker
  14. Definitely want to bench bleed the m/c before mounting. It sits angled upward in the car and you will never get all the air out of the front chamber as it sits. If you didn't know better or forgot to do it and don't feel like taking it out and starting over, you can jack up the rear of the car high enough so the m/c sits level and then you can bleed it in place.
  15. Check for a vacuum leak especially at the port you put the Seafoam in through.
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