Mc_Reatta

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About Mc_Reatta

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  1. That's what I thought would be the case, but Kingsley's data didn't confirm it. Do you have data to show the increase in pedal presses to pump start to add? Would make having to add spacers and such a more attractive undertaking.
  2. You can do it on the car. The switch, pump and accumulator pod is mounted to the rest of the MC with a rubber shock mount to keep noise and vibration down. This lets it rock when you apply pressure to the socket. Believe I used one hand to apply opposite torque to the pod when pushing on the wrench to stabilize it. A helper would come in handy too if you have one. if all else fails, you can remove the pod from the MC and put in a vise, but you will then have pulled the fluid lines from the unit and have fluid draining out of the reservoir and air in the high pressure line so you will definitely have to prime the pump after you reassemble. No need to make added work unless you have too which is doubtful.
  3. Not the motor itself, but the gear cases are mirror images so you just can't swap the motor assembly side to side. Never checked if the worm gear on the end of the motor shaft is the same or not when I had one apart. Are you wanting to just swap out the motor portion or the entire assembly?
  4. No bleeding of fluid should be needed anywhere. Just in case, depress the brake pedal a few times to bleed off any pressure that might be in the accumulator. Normally you would have to do that about 25 times, but since your pump hasn't been running, doubt there is any pressure built up you have to relieve. After switch is replaced and pump is working, you might have to prime the pump if is running but it doesn't build pressure to shut off. ROJ has procedure for this in case you need it but doubt you will. If I recall, there is some slop using the closest plumber's socket (more than you'd like,) but it will crack the switch loose. Once loosened, it should turn easily by hand to remove it and start the new one on. You don't need to super torque the new one on either. Don't know if there is a torque spec out there for this switch. Also, the rod that comes with the sockets won't work since the hole isn't far enough away to make it useable. I used a large cresent wrench on the other end of the socket and had plenty of oomph to break it free.
  5. Ace is the place! FLHS Friendly Local Hardware Store
  6. Yes, you're probably correct. You can prove it by using one of your new wires to ground that gray / red wire with the key on to see if the pump runs then like the pressure switch should be doing if it was working. Most of us pick up a cheap set of plumbers sink basin wrench sets at HF or a hardware store and use the one that fits the best to crack the switch loose. The correct thin wall socket is hard to find or make and expensive. http://www.harborfreight.com/shower-valve-socket-wrench-set-96322.html
  7. Use the ohm meter in your DVM to measure the resistance across the VATS chip in your key. Use that value to find the correct key blank from a vendor on ebay and order. Take to any key maker and have them duplicate your key onto the blank. Or go to a dealer or locksmith and have them make a duplicate for you. Much quicker but much more expensive. Here's one such vendor : http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-IGNITION-VATS-KEY-B62-P1-Buick-Cadillac-Chevrolet-Oldsmobile-Pontiac-VATS-1-/151507560019?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AReatta&hash=item23468de653&vxp=mtr
  8. Sounds like you've got it down to the relay or pressure switch. I'm thinking it's probably the relay but to confirm it use your voltmeter to confirm the voltage on the gray / red wire on the relay. You said with the key on you have 12 volts on the brown wire. The pressure switch should ground the relay coil thru that gray / red wire to trip the relay and turn the pump on. So if there is voltage on that wire the pressure switch is bad. If there isn't, then the switch is grounding the relay and it should switch the 12 volts from the red wire where you have confirmed it, to the pink / black wire that runs the pump. So if you don't have voltage on the gray /red wire or the pink / black wire, your relay is bad. If its on the gray / black wire, your pressure switch is bad.
  9. You can use the diagnostics on the CRT to help you track down where your problems lie. Lights might be a bad switch (door jamb, headlight switch dimmer) or a bad splice under the passenger's seat too. BCM Inputs can show proper switch operation. Fans could be fuse or relays too. Can check out by using BCM Override to trigger the fan relays and see if they're working and the fans run.
  10. You do a search on steering rack and you will come up with this thread: http://forums.aaca.org/f116/steering-rack-1988-a-351033.html and will find out you need the 3 port rack unless...
  11. Thanks, guess I'll buy 91 sets from now on.
  12. What differences did you find between the two sets?
  13. Yes, that range of acceptable pre-charge pressure is very suspicious. Sincerely doubt OEM vendor was given that as the specification. Packers just need to hire a timekeeper from New England who can set the game clock to run 8% fast. :cool:
  14. Have to correct my earlier calculations. Been quite a while since I attended thermodynamics class and forgot temperature has to be in degrees Kelvin not C or F. So if the Packers football was inflated to 12.5 psi in a 70 F equipment room, and then played with on a -16 F field, the pressure in the ball would drop to 10.5 psi. The pressure in our accumulator pre-charged to 1000 psi at 70 F would climb to 1265 psi at 210 F, not as much I had quoted in previous post which I will edit.
  15. Why shouldn't you be able to muddy the water? It all depends on which quarterback is driving the car how the pre-charge is determined. If not, why is Aaron Rodgers not playing half his games with empty pig bladders. How the Packers manage to kick a field goal in the winter time is beyond me. 12.5 psi at 70 F = 11.65 psi at 35 F. What's the record low game temp at Lambeau? So yes, under hood temp has to be taken into account so you don't explode the ball at >3500 psi. 1000 psi at 70 F would be 1265 psi at 210 F. That is one reason it's not 2000 psi. Pre-charge is also based on if the accumulator is to store energy, or to absorb pressure shocks as used in plumbing systems. To absorb shock, you want the pressure to be about the normal operating pressure of the system. To store energy, you want the pressure to be at the lowest end of system operating pressure. Remember that the red light doesn't come on until 1500 psi or so and you will get some breaking assist even with that amount of pressure. Also, the higher the pre-charge pressure, the less room for pressurized fluid to be stored in the accumulator, and the fewer pumps till run or 0 brake assist you will get. So the volume of the ball and the pre-charge are balanced to give desired performance.