Tony T.

I've had many recent additional reasons lately to part with this car, and the parts I've collected for it...$500 takes it all. TT

The aforementioned Rocker Rust. The Driver's side is not nearly as bad... TT

That's about the saddest TC picture I've ever seen...yes, mine is bad where you would expect, It's had brake and fuel lines go away, fuel tank strap, stuff like that...never going to be new again, but it's still got some life left (I suppose living in the rust belt gives one a distorted sense of reality at times...) TT

Sorry, forgot the Location! Car is in Northern IL - 60135 TT

For Sale; 1989 Chrysler TC by Maserati - $2000 or best offer. Must sell one of the toys. Yellow, Ginger Interior, Black top. 2.2 TII Auto. Not currently running. Has a intermittent connection at the Fuel Pump Connector, I had intended to fix but have not the time and would rather turn it into cash. The Good: Has FWD Performance Computer (huge difference if you’ve never had the pleasure). Brake Accumulator replaced when I first got the car about 10 years ago. New Hood Struts. Have OEM Window sweeps not installed. Original Radio replaced with newer Sebring unit so backlight would match the dash. No issues with Top Pull Down, Convertible top or Power Windows. No body damage (except small ‘Heritage’ dent left from original owner). The Bad: Windshield is broken, one original wheel replaced by original owner with Chrysler Lace. Drivers side Headlight has small chip. Odometer not working. Rust at bottom of doors/front fenders. Rubber Trim on nose loose, also lower Door Trim (see pictures) Seat Leather is worn/torn. Driver’s side Mirror is broken/hanging. Fuel Door Release handle missing, does not open door. Lots of Miles (original owner drove it daily in MI), I bought it from his Grandson.

It's been a few years since I've been here. My '89 Yellow/Ginger/Black/SOHC #202033 is looking forward to getting back out on the road! TT

If anything I'd be worried about clearing the brake calipers with the compact spare. My TC got a 15" Chrysler LeBaron lace wheel swapped in on the front for a damaged original when the car was a few years old (as told to me by grandson of the original owner upon my purchase). TT

I had this same thing happen on a well worn '91 LeBaron 'vert a couple of years ago - the socket connector at the Fuel Pump was intermittent and acted like a bad pump - couple of years ago mother Mopar still sold a pigtail repair part that you spliced onto the harness. Now, the '89 TC is doing the very same thing, only weeks after having the tank and pump replaced (one tank strap had broken due to rust and everything got replaced). Starts up, runs fine, you'll be cruising along and zoot - motor dies, won't start, can't hear pump run prior to cranking. Go under car, wiggle plug, starts right up. Assuming the worst and that the connector does not clean up well or give me confidence, is there still a replacement available? Does anyone know if the plug is the same size/shape as used in the '91? That car is almost ready for parting, this may push it over the edge... TT

I have a minor problem, I have a '90 Factory Service Manual (red cover) in very good condition that I'd like to trade even up for a like condition '89 version (blue cover). Can anyone help me out? TT

Maybe way off base here, but this is very similar to a problem my brother's '89 2.2 TII Shelby Daytona had this spring...He was on his way to work one night when the car just up and died...no warning, no codes, crank but no start... Come to find out the cam shaft snapped in half. I've lived with these cars since they were new, and I've never heard of a broken cam shaft...been lucky I guess. TT (Speaking of luck, I was up in central WI last weekend and got to try out the 'antilock' portion of the brakes for the very first time...to avoid a deer which jumped out in front of us...panic stop from about 45 mph, so car stopped just in time, but blew out a brake line on the front right...I'm hoping the local guy has seen a system like this before...)

Yes, in fact the radio to which I referred to was a factory unit with the 'alternate' mounting configuration, which was not too difficult to adapt with some sheet metal tabs...both harnesses were the same...and it looks right at home... It was an Ebay purchase, and since it is a factory unit, it looks as if it grew there...if I can I'll dig out the spec's on the application I'll let you know. TT

I replaced the unit in my '89 with a newer style, as mentioned by TC Toy, but with the Sebring's amber backlighting...matches the dash lights fairly well...now I just need to do the heater control backlights... TT

Great, thanks guys. I suspected the 'Baron parts would cross over, but was not sure if perhaps the rear axle geometry was different. Unfortunately, it was the rusted out steel fuel line that got me under the car in the first place...don't suppose anyone has new pre-bent steel lines for these cars anymore? (I expect not, but it never hurts to ask...supply line rusted out at the rubber hose which goes to the tank/pump) TT

So, I just discovered the rear shocks on my '89 TII TC have out lived their usefulness...can anyone hook me up with a good current mfg/part number for a direct replacement? TT

The next gen radio in this series (ie; with the same 2 output connectors and face) has it's mounting tabs in slightly different locations. With a little modification it goes in just fine. I picked up a combo CD/Tape unit from a Sebring (or a cloud car?) with the orange display to upgrade my '89. If I remember right, it was only a matter of attaching a couple of brackets to the radio to bolt to the car. TT

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mtworkshop</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Adjust it so it feels like the other one. Mike</div></div> Yup, that was my first guess, just throwing it out there... TT

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ghostymosty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The last time it was attached the hook probably missed the plastic receiver and grabbed onto the stainless trim piece. If you're not careful that can happen easily.</div></div> While I can't say for sure this was the case (ie: my fault), I'm normally very careful with the top latch. However it is clear that the original owner let it 'slop' a bit over the years. Are the plastic 'innards' of the latch/alignment holes still available? The loose J hook worries me though. Not only does the hook turn (not secured in place by the set screw), but the pin holding the hook where it pivots (higher up) is nearly coming out. This allows much more movement as compared to the left side mechanism. Any suggestion on adjusting the position of the J hook before I tighten the set screw? TT

OK, coming home this morning, cruising down the road, all of a sudden the right top latch lets go and the top nearly blows all the way back! A very eye-opening experience to say the least! It did not come unlatched (the handle was still closed), but it lost the grip on the post. The J hook feels a little loose, but I've not yet examined it yet to see if it's a simple matter of turning hardware or something more complex...The windsheild post also looks a little chewed up, any suggestions welcome! TT

I might be able to scan the knife, let me know if you and Roger can hook up instead. TT

I know mine is a Victorinox, still has the instuction sheet with it... However speaking of missing items, what goes next to the knife? My kit contains the knife, a open slot, a red handled flat screwdriver and then the slip joint pliers on the left side of the kit. TT

Looking forward to meeting any and all who can make it, and seeing some TCs...if the 16V cars start showing up, it's gonna humble me and my little T2... <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Bring 'em on!!</span></span> TT

OK, this little problem seems to be getting steadily worse. The left side of the soft top will not disengage from the pull down mechanism. If you disengage the right and cycle the motor it usually 'jumps' out when it stops. Top latches again OK, but more pressure is required than on the right side. Would this be an adjustment, lube job or something worse (and more expensive?!?) Pardon my ignorance, but up until last weekend, I'd had never poked around in the top storage well. I attacked the rest of the car with a 'super sudsy bomb' and it was dusty in there! Still, I was careful not to go 'wet and wild' in there. I was a little concerned though to see rust on one of the seams. TT

Just to put a wrap on this thread, I spend about 8 hours and only got it 'clean'. The trunk/door jams or under the hood looked like they had'nt been attended to in many years...but it was a very enjoyable day, seeing the car come back to life bit by bit. Also got an up close and personal look at the rust beginning to show on the rockers, I hope it will hold up until I can afford to do some serious body work. TT

That would be the Mopars at the Red Barns, at the Gilmore Car Museum. (http://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org) Thank you all for the input, now I've got some work to do...First time I washed him (just purchased last November) it was 'bleeding' dirt, came out from under every square inch of trim...poor old car... TT

I'm headed out to Michigan in a couple of weeks when my TC will be shown for the first time - it's a 'survivor' recently retired from daily driver duties. I am mostly concerned with the bumper's rubber trim - I've never seen a TC at a show before (maybe 'cause I frequent Mopar only events?). Should I give it a shot of 'wet tire' juice, or just leave it 'clean'? Anyone remember how they looked on the showroom floor 'back in the day'? TT