Detroit_Electric

I melded an old photo of Charles Steinmetz in front of a Tesla dealership

I bought some a few years ago on eBay, they were listed as cutler hammer

Not sure if this helps at all as they are not for sale but here is what you are looking for. I bought the plug from Galen quite a few years ago and it is my understanding that he has none available. The spring cover is more than a cover, it is the mounting bracket as well I hope this helps some and doesn't just tease Steve

Bob has the site back up

I have sent a message to Bob but I have not heard back yet. It was down a few years ago and after I contacted him he got it back running. I will try a couple more avenues

Tony, your carriage lights are upside down

It just used to be so easy cars for sale very near the top of the forums. I think having it lower on the page is part of the problem and the other part is the when you go to the sale page there are sub forums listed and then you go below the sub forums to see the listed cars. The first time I went there it looked like I was going to have to search each car type for the for sales. Perhaps if the cars for sale was a sub forum like others on the page and make it the lead one. It would take an extra click to get to but it would be at the top of the sale page instead of below the sub forums. It is just a bit cluttered with the sub forums on top of the car listings

Obviously it isn't as obvious as it used to be or as you seem to think it is now "The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts."

I have been away for a bit but I cannot find the cars for sale area. Edit, ok I found it but not as easy as it used to be

I was looking (and bidding) on that car. It is the same model as the Edison car at the Edison National Park. I was just going to leave that car as it was except maybe try and find the missing lights. That car is as original as original gets and I especially love those solid tires. I have a 1914 model 43, a 1917 that I forget the model right now and a 1922 model 90. The 22 and the 17 have had the interiors restored, the 14 is original but in no where near as good a shape as your car. I have had the motor on the 14 rebuilt and Rhode Island Wire rebuilt the wiring harness and I suspect your harness is the same. As previously listed the electric vehicle museum is a great source of original documents http://www.electricvehiclemuseum.org. The electric vehicle newsletter is good to see and if you haven't had contact with Galen PM me and I will get you his contact info. He had all of the documents that are on the museum site but he doesn't run that site. I have worked with VEVA Vancouver Electric Vehicle Association, they are working on their 1912 Detroit. They have a resistor pack for sale and they have remade the copper plates for the speed controller

Sorry, I didn't see this or would have responded sooner. My 1922 and 1914 have like LJensen has on the wood behind your feet when seated. It is my understanding that it is the correct location for the plate

The relished link https://www.ebay.com/itm/264661839136?ViewItem=&vxp=mtr&item=264661839136

I sent you a message, interested in the Detroit

I believe the owner said he had spent $84k on the work he had done

This Graham was out at the Good-Guys show in Scottsdale in the car coral. Looks like a really well done car, I should have had them open the hood so I could take some pictures. It was very nice as well Asking $39K and accepting reasonable offers Hal - 949-677-5774

Would you consider selling the old wood batteries separately? I have a 1914 Detroit model 43 and a 1922 model 90 along with an old display Edison used to sell the batteries

I alway love looking at your offers. You do an amazing job of presenting

Roger, I want to thank you for what you have done with with your 1:12 work and for taking the time to document everything. I only found your post last month and I have been spending the last few weeks reading and looking at all of the wonderful information and photos you have shared. I have been sharing them with anyone I could get to look. I just reached page 88 and the completion of the Continental and wanted to post a note before I go on and see the work on the Toronado and Avanti. Your abilities, persistence and patience are absolutely amazing. My neck must be at least an inch larger in circumference with all the work outs it has endured shaking my head from side to side (as others have mentioned). The Continental is truly a work of art! The education you have provided us all on the techniques and tools, the insight into your thought processes and problem solving along with the dedication to stick to a project show what can be accomplished if we really try is much appreciated and respected. As many others have said (and I am sure so many more who have read but haven't posted have thought) thank you for all you have done!

I did, I have been spending almost all the time I can spare and have made it up to page 40. I keep wanting to comment as I go along but then I remember the posts I would be responding to were done years ago. Definitely getting lots of neck exercise of my neck as a shake it side to side in disbelief of what I am seeing. Absolutely incredible work

I am not sure where I will find the time to look at all of this post but I am totally blown away by what I have seen so far. Your work and skills amaze me!

Just reported

Nope, total at checkout is $180 something after shipping

Amazon has 1qt for $169.99 https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Weld-3549-Urethane-Container/dp/B000WXFKZU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=3M+3549+B%2FA&qid=1566574613&s=gateway&sr=8-2 They say quantity 6 but Granger wants $1,328 for 6 so I assume the Amazon one is just 1 quart of each part

I assume you have searched and found this online so maybe it isn't relevant but it seems like someone made what you are looking for http://theoldmotor.com/?p=20330

Found this online There is a simple way to get the 12 volt meter to work on the 6 volt ignition system. It requires a battery from a motorcycle, dry cell from a light, whatever has 12 volts. Connect the power wires from the tach/dwell to the 12 volt battery, then, add a ground wire from the 12 volt battery to the engine, and connect the sensor wire form the meter to the negative post on the coil. read dwell/rpms, set accordingly.The power supply from the 12 volt battery will NOT interface/interfere with the 6 volt system. The ground wire from the 12 volt battery to the engine proper only completes the READ circuit on the meter, the two different voltage systems remain separated.Dwell meter/tach reads correctly when connected in this method.