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My TC Toy

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  1. The bushings are easy to replace. The three bolts around the tower secure the bushings and a tap will release the old bushing and strut together (that is assuming the lower end is let go). Bushings are a MUST to replace if replacing the struts. Also the ball joints should be replaced. Although they may seem OK, they still have plenty of wear on them. Don't get the cheapest because that is exactly what you will get, crap. Keep to a more moderately priced joint or better. It is always better to go with a recognozed national brand. Good luck, it will make a great difference to your ride. Bob
  2. Bob, They were not sold new in Canada. I guess they were just too good for us up here! I got mine in Michigan about 5 years ago and enjoy rhe car immensely. Any time you want information, etc. simply start a new thread, in that way we keep everything together, allbeit repeated. Welcome aboard. Bob (Newfoundland)
  3. While you have her apart my suggestion would be to tear off a thin width if rag, anout 8" long, soak it with a little brake cleaner and weave it through the air space in the anti-lock pickup sensor. Moving it back and forth you can do a great job of cleaning the crap that has accumulated there and no need to remove, and possibly damage the sensor. Just a thought. Bob
  4. I know locally, a lot of auto parts stores have an alternater battery and starter testers. In a matter of a couple of minutes thay can test the alternater. I don't know if it is similar down your way but it may well be worth asking about. They normally test only the output capacity of the alternater. Bob
  5. To check the codes turn the ignition key on-off-on-off and on. Do not start the engine. Then watch the engine light and count the flashes also notice the pauses between flashes. For example one flash pause three flashes translates to code 13. This will continue until all applicable codes have been itemized. Then check the service manuel or here for interpretation. Good luck.\ Bob
  6. Thats what I would suggest first. Get a good throttle body cleaner and clean as per can instructions drowning the engine at the end. Let the car stand for ten minutes and then restart. It could work wonders.
  7. I went to my parts supplier and he looked up the listings for the TC. I think it was KYB that I installed. I replace all the rest of the consumables for the struts as well. No point in trying to save a couple of bucks to find out in a few months that something else has failed and you have to do it all over again.
  8. My experience with hoses is that once the get oil soaked they tend to get soft over time. I would replace them with new ones when you reinstall the turbo. It may cost a few dollars but they won't give you any more trouble or work.
  9. Hi, Bob, welcome to the forum. This car looks like a good deal. Hope it works out for you and we see lits more of you here. Let us know. Bob
  10. Glad to be of help. See, sometimes it is good to give things a kick. Bob
  11. Sounds like the lock jammed when you pulled on it too hard. Have you tried giving it a couple of quick hard jabs to loosen the lock? It may work.
  12. Two little things that normally work are: 1- try removing the pads and roughing up with a coarse sand paper, sometimes the surface gets glossed over and 2- while you have the pads off coat the backing plate of the pad with a good anti-squeal compound, available at your auto parts store. That should work. If the squeal returns you will have to replace the pads. Good luck
  13. Good luck. I don't think Chrysler will even admit they built the car originally.
  14. Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas and the best New Year ever. Hope next years brings you health and happiness. Bob & Carol
  15. Some say they do, however that is not always the case. Read the fine print on the guarantee, if they fail the manufacturer will replace the t'stat if you meet his requirements.
  16. You say the mechanicals dont move- Is the motor running and nothing else? If yes, the problem is the plastic case. If not check to see if the power is actially going to the motor.
  17. No. But I like the look too. I put a 1 1/2" one on mine last year and think it lookg great. I purchased it intentionally too long and cut and trimme it to fit perfectly. Left it matte black to match the other trim.
  18. That may be a solution but it is a hell of a job to get everything lined up correctly. I found the simplest, for me, was screwing right through the console. It was quick, permanent and barely visable when the screw heads were touched up with paint. I like simple and effective!! Bob
  19. Part of the problem, as I see it, is that the plastic deteriorates over time, especially when it is thin and under strain. Instead of steel tubing I would suggest 1/4" or 5/16" ID vinyl tubing. Fill it with an epoxy glue and slide it over the plastic pins. This will serve to reinforce the pins and give you the spacer you need. Good luck. Bob
  20. When I reattached the seat switches I drilled out the existing screw shafts (that had broken causing the problem) right through the face of the console, taking care not to break them off entirely, even if cracked they still serve a purpose to stabilize the shafts. I believe I used a 3/32" bit. Then I countersunk holes into the wood grain of the console so that the head of the new screw would fit flush. I cut short pieces of 3/16" vinyl hose and slid over the short shafts making sure the hose was all the way up to the underside of the console and were the same length as the original shafts and also glued them in place. I then slipped bumper clips over the tabs of the switch. Using long screws I reattached the switch to the console. The switches are now tight and will never come loose again. After some fooling around with some paints I just about matched the wood grain on the head of the screws. No-one has ever commented on the screws as they are almost perfectly hidden. Hope this is of some help. Bob
  21. I would have thought that if the coils were gone too weak the car would be sitting low. It sounds to me like you have the wrong shocks. There is a lot of different shocks on the market, check with your supplier and find out whether the shocks were heavy duty double action or single action. It will make a difference. The other item is questioning if they are bottoming out or if the rubber pads mounted above the coils in the front towers have failed. If these pads fail it will cause a lot of knocking type noise in rough surfaces.
  22. G&G, Good luck removing the console. I do not think it was installed to ever be removed. You are right on the indicator cable remove the bolt and you can slide it off the pin. However to remove the console you will be better by first removing the two front seats. There are fasteners on the side of the tunnel that are hard to get at. All you have to do is remove four bolts and disconnect the harness for each seat. When you get the console unattached, gently lift the passenger side toward the rear first and cut the plastic straps underneith that tie the harness wires together. Eventually you will be able to remove the console. Don't forget the screws in the ashtray and storage box. The other item is the shifter handle. Gently pry up the square button in the centre top of the shifter, this snaps into place at the end of a 6" rod.. Then remove the set screw facing front on the upper part of the shift lever. The handle then should slide off. All you need is lots and lots and lots of patience. Good luck. Bob
  23. Have you researched the brake bleeding procedure? They are not bled like a regular brake system. -With the key OFF depress the brake 25 times to relieve ALL pressure in the acululator. Now check the fluid resavoir and top up. Always relieve ALL pressure in the accumulator before removing resavoir cap.\ -The front brakes bleed normally - simply push on the brake and bleed. -In order to bleed the rear brakes the system must be at full pressure. Turn on the key and wait for the pressure to stabilize. Now CAREFULLY bleed the rear brakes, the longer line first. When checking the resavoir do not forget to relieve ALL pressure. Remember what Larry said usd DOT3 fluid ONLY, the system is real fussy about this, and it is the best and only fluid to use. Good luck, I hope it all works out.
  24. Opera... welcome to the club. Mine is a 1990 YBB (FYI yellow with black conv. top and black int.) I hope you will have many years of pleasure with the car. You certainly have a beauty with only 13m miles, like a 23 year old new car. Who could ask for more? You will find a friendly group here, more than willing to help you with any problems/ queries you might have. Have you joined The TC club yet? You will find the newsletters entertaining and informative. Hope to hear again from you soon Bob
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