Marty Roth

Going by the bearing number, top quality bearings SHOULD be available at any GOOD bearing supply house. Down here I use : Dixie Bearings inc - Just google Dixie Bearings - they have locations all ove or http://www.applied.com/

Posted from the AACA SPEEDSTER Hopefully you can support this excellent cause (Wish I could make it there - with my "LITTLE RED CORVETTE" Kick-off Car Show Season with us on Saturday! We are very excited that it is finally here- Cars 4 Critters Exotic and Sports Car Show is tomorrow! The show will be held on on the beautiful grounds of the AACA Museum. Calling all "Little Red Corvettes" with the passing of Prince yesterday, we thought it would be a nice tribute to see how many "Little Red Corvettes" we could encourage to come to the show - we would love to have a special area or photo opportunity. A fun tribute helping a great cause. Who do you know with a red Corvette? Help us spread the word! We love this tribute image from Chevrolet.

Do a compression check - in fact do two of them: First check compression on dry cylinders - all of them - with the spark plugs out of all, and record each cylinder Then go back, and one at a time, add a tablespoon or three of oil to each cylinder - one at a time - and record each compression 1. a notable increase in compression after adding the oil will indicate worn or broken piston rings 2. A very low reading on a particular cylinder can indicate stuck valves or broken pushrods 3. Low readings between a pair of cylinders could indicate a bad headgasket (or possible cracks in head or block - less likely) Get an older copy of a MOTORS MANUAL Get a Vacuum Gauge Read the pages which show you how to diagnose a multitude of problems from how the Vacuum Gauge reads or fluctuates - this is a gem of a way to diagnose, but too long to list here Actually, I found you a video which shows this:

Larry: The timing of the estate and sale for the Hudson you noted would have been about the same, but may or may not be the same car. (was there a spare engine and other parts noted at that time?) I believe that Fred's son (Fred, Jr.) sold the car directly to Dave Lanning, and that Dave had it for the entire time until I got it Easter Sunday, 2015. I've also been in touch with Fred Long's grandson Jim. Obviously I paid A LOT MORE than the $10,500 price you were offered 13 years ago. Sorry you missed it - these are a very nice driving car. Of course our former '14 Buick B-37 was a great car as well - I just wanted a bigger car, and could not find a B-55 or C-55 Buick 6-cylinder at the time. I still want a 1915 (or early 1916) Cadillac Touring, but seem priced out of the market.

Nice Mustache !

I had some of the same issues with the gearbox when I still had my 1914 B-37, but the pedals were in the "right" location - now driving a '15 Hudson, the gearbox is conventional, but we are back to having the accelerator pedal between the Brake and Clutch pedals. When I get to "step on the gas", it sometimes takes a moment to find it, but is more alarming when I have to go for the brakes, and realize that it is the Accelerator pedal ! Like your car, there is no room to add a "far right" accelerator pedal, but in this case it is due to the starter mechanism and transmission shifter.

If he were on a BRIDGE, I could say he was "CROSSING THE DELAWARE"

I also use a NAPA Serpentine belt on the flat pulleys of my 1915 Hudson. Mine is approximately one inch (1") wide, and the wider surface area means that the belt does not need to be very tight to maintain good operation and no stress on the bearing/bushing.

Earlier badges carry neither the "Year of Award", nor the badge serial number, as evidenced below. Upon contacting AACA National Headquarters in Hershey, we were supplied with the badge nimber, and learned that our 1915 Hudson SIX-40 had been awarded her First Junior in 1957 at the Meet held in Pottstown PA, and earned her Senior in 1961, with First Preservation and repeat Preservation being awarded in 1989. Our Hudson was purchased around 1952 by Washington, DC Police Officer Fred Long of Ijamsville, MD. Fred restored the big Hudson, showed it multiple times, and was well-respected for driving the car on many long-distance tours all over the east coast. I read an article, sent to me be Fred's grandson, noting that Fred, together with his wife and children, was the leader of a Horseless Carriage Club of America (HCCA) tour from the DC area to Niagara Falls and home again. When I displayed this car at the AACA Meet in Virginia Beach in 2015, shortly after acquiring it from Dave and Babe Lanning in Florida, I was amazed at how many people came by to tell me that they knew the car from when Fred owned it until his passing 13 or so years prior, or that they had ridden in the big Hudson with Fred. I'm honored to be able to maintain a car with a known AACA history, from a respected member, and hope to carry on the tradition by driving the now-roadworthy '15 Hudson in our upcoming 2016 Reliability Tour of Savannah, Georgia in November, to be run in conjunction with our HCCA sister club.

Dave, Yup, I stated it backward, but turning the screws in was what may have made up for the issue I was describing with possible reference to the plugs and wires.

Our all-original 1937 Roadmaster 80C was purchased by the City of New York to serve as a Parade Car for Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia - "Little Flower". Fiorello retains all of the original interior, convertible top, drive-line, and paint (with touch-up to a few battle-scars received during parade service). The Roadmaster transported Sports and Political Dignitaries such as President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Vice-President Harry S. Truman, General Dwight David Eisenhower, General Douglas MacArthur, British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill, and many others as it served the city through the mid-1950s or later, perhaps into the early 1960s. The big Buick Roadmaster convertible sedan (Phaeton in Buick Parlance) is believed to have spent many years with Case Western Reserve University's Crawford Museum of Aviation and Auto History before being auctioned int the property of Cedric Blazer and Dr. Michael Werckle of Rockford/Caledonia, Illinois. After many years of bargaining back and forth, and following Mr Blazer's passing, Dr. Werckle assisted me in negotiating with Blazer's estate, and after a half-year, the agreement was reached for me to acquire the then 7,xxx mile piece of history. Thorough preparation, careful maintenance, and the ultimate discovery of how to correct a long-standing brake master cylinder mis-assembly have enabled our family, friends, and several local brides to bask in the glow of this "Moment in Time" - Fiorello, the 1937 Roadmaster Phaeton. 1937 Buick with marty and Nathan.shs

Ben, I like the visor on your car -- it is "IN CHARACTER", and each one is an individual

Darrell, I'm in the Metro-New Orleans area, and might be able to help you with a car while in this area, but cannot offer you my car to make this trip. The car is a 1915 Hudson Model SIX-40 7-passenger Touring car.

Matt, As I recall, your having turn the adjusting screws "IN" that far actually enriched the mixture from where it was. Frequently, a slightly richer mixture will make up for aged spark plugs and/or plug wires with too much resistance. I wonder if, during your initial manifold swap and tuning debacle, the plugs became fouled or even slightly carboned-up, and the richer mixture is compensating for that condition - or that the plug wires may be a modern "resistor" type, instead of actual wire. This had been the case on one of our Citroen DS-21 Pallas models when we lived in Ft. Wayne, Indiana back in the '70s. Correct plug wires and new plugs solved that one, and in that winter environment it did take some extra time to warm up that Citroen 2.2L hemi.

I just leave my pairs of Optima batteries hard wired with 000 (Triple Aught -or welding cable) - in Parallel. I've not had any starting problems and this has not had an affect on the generator. I have lots of reserve cranking Amperage. Night traffic, coming home from a tour or a cruise, with many stops means that I do not have to rev the engine to keep up the amps , avoiding drainage. I suppose that a switch, preferable remote inside the car, might be an interesting option, but see no major advantage, other than if I left the headlights "ON" accidentally for many hours, there would still be a reserve function. I carry a Jumper Pak (12-Volt) in some cars to help others. This can also be used to power a GPS, charge a cell phone, etc. In a pinch, I could safely hook the Power lead to the starter or solenoid, hit the starter, and temporarily touch the ground lead to a ground surface, spinning the starter momentarily without causing any serious damage, disconnecting ASAP.

We hope to be "In That Number"

It may be difficult to stay away from Wayne - if you see a car disabled on the side of the road, and decide to pullover to help, chances are pretty good that Wayne will already be there offering assistance..... Years ago, he even bought an Essex especially for the Sentimental Tour. As I recall, it looked like a moonshiner's still from certain angles, but he finished the tour with it! Looking forward to seeing y'all on the Sentimental, as well as all other AACA National and Divisional Tours. ........ and if you are interested, we would like to do a Tour or meet in your area....

It fits in mine, and a pair of them also fit side-by-side, connected in Parallel

Sometimes the tires cost more than the Motorhome. We were looking at buying an inexpensive Class "A" motorhome a few years back so we could spend mor time on the road between AACA events and pull the trailer with a Driver/Show car. The search quickly went from a $4,995 1996 Holiday Rambler Tag Axle Chevy 454-powered single slide-out with ten (10) tires (each tire original and 27 years old) to looking at 1996-2002 400-600 HP Tag-Axle Monaco Signature Diesel Pushers at more than $100,000. What did they all have in common? It seems that folks in the know decide to trade in their rig, rather than buy new tires at $800 each (ten new tires comes to $around $9,500 by the time you factor in tax, installation, warranty, additional ad-ons, etc. The dealer offered lower cost alternatives, such as the kind of Chinese tires that blew out on my trailer when new -- NO THANK YOU. I know lots of folks use Goodyear, and my preference is Michelin. A few bucks more can mean more safety and less time on the side of the road - or worse! The same applies to our old cars which we don't drive as much. Just because the tread looks good, check the Date-Code as well.

Above and beyond solivng your drain problem, consider adding a "Master Electrical Cutoff", so when you leave your car, eith at night, or at the local Cruise-In/Parking Lot, Motel while on tour, it prevents discharge, battery drain, and helps minimize the opportunity for theft. Better to get a high-capacity switch for a shut-off, rather than the "quickie' type with a plastic wheel that attaches to the battery terminal, as they have less electrical resistance. The cheapies will sometimes decrease voltage/amperage to you starting circuits, but anything is better than nothing in most cases.

Mine is in a flex rubber hose and does not need support

My son has a '96 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0L inline 6-cylinder engine, 2-wheel drive, and solid front axle We bought it after his prior ride went under in Hurricane Katrina. At the time we bought this Jeep, it had about 225,000 miles on it, but appeared well-maintained, and was affordable. The Cherokee now has probably close to 300,000+ miles on the original engine, transmission, differential, etc. It still starts, drives, and and runs well The only repairs other than replacing brakes and a water pump, was the replacement of a cracked exhaust manifold - and I understand that this is common with theses vehicles. It had been in a few minor collisions, and has been repaired reasonably well, but the air bag was not replaced afterward since he got his Chevy while waiting for the repair. VERY DEPENDABLE, but now he is planning to sell it since he has a great low-mileage 2005? Chevy Trailblazer we picked up locally last year. Anybody interested?

My experience with modern radial tires tells me that after about 5 to 7 years, radial tires tend to be more likely to experience steel belt separation. This is initially felt as a vibration, and if you can get to a safe place to change the tire soon enough, you can get off the road before the belt breaks completely, causing not only the tire to go flat , but hopefully before the belt and/or tread comes loose from the tire, causing body damage to your car, and possibly others driving near you. I know this from personal experience. We plan to drive our 1988 Corvette convertible (an AACA First Junior) from New Orleans to Arizona and back after the Auburn, Indiana AACA MEET. Our tires in the 'Vette look perfect, and appear to have approximately 90-95% of their original tread. They are expensive - BF GOODRICH G-FORCE COMP-2 255/50ZR16. This is a One-family car, and I'm the 3rd owner. The current tires were installed approximately 8 years ago, and we've made trips from Raleigh, NC to New Orleans, and then round trips to Wisconsin and northern Ohio, both of which were to drive week-long tours. Thus far we've had no problems with the tires, but this Corvette convertible carries only a tiny "temporary" spare tire. There is no room to carry a failed tire and rim if one should go bad. While on a cross-country trip we would likely be delayed several days to a week wailing for a replacement tire if one should be needed. For the above reasons, I elected to order a new set of the same tires, to be installed prior to the upcoming trip. It may be a waste of money, but my experience with aging radial tires tells me to spend the bucks on replacing 5 - 7 year old radials before they come apart and damage the vehicle in the process

Actually, with a bit of practice I can get my '37 Roadmaster Phaeton 80C (convertible sedan) top up or down in just a few minutes - but it does take practice since the "B" pillars, and the Roof rails are detachable with wing-bolts

Hey Brian, Congratulations - delighted to know that you are back on the road with your Buick, and thanks for all the other help as well. How about a photo of you driving and smiling in your Buick?