Marty Roth

I have three (3) NORS - New Old Replacement Stock, or possibly Relined with ASBESTOS- You Know, the way clutches were much better prior to when EPA started protecting us against ourselves. I bought these when restoring my 1934 Buick, believing I would be keeping and driving it forever, planning to buy additional models, and knowing that these old superior asbestos clutches would no longer be on the market. A remanufactured one from Bob's (not asbestos), including core charge is a very fair price of $165.00 Are mine worth $50.00/each? How about $120.00 for all three (3) together delivered to my Hershey Spaces? Chocolate Field near Lamp Post #58 CG-32, 33, 34 PM me if interested Reasonable offers are always considered (unreasonable offers are OK - I need a good laugh these days)

I have three (3) NORS - New Old Replacement Stock, or possibly Relined with ASBESTOS- You Know, the way clutches were much better prior to when EPA started protecting us against ourselves. I bought these when restoring my 1934 Buick, believing I would be keeping and driving it forever, planning to buy additional models, and knowing that these old superior asbestos clutches would no longer be on the market. A remanufactured one from Bob's (not asbestos), including core charge is a very fair price of $165.00 Are mine worth $50.00/each? How about $120.00 for all three (3) together delivered to my Hershey Spaces? Chocolate Field near Lamp Post #58 CG-32, 33, 34 PM me if interested Reasonable offers are always considered (unreasonable offers are OK - I need a good laugh these days)

1928 CHEVY 4-CYLINDER INTAKE MANIFOLD - $15 I will have this at my HERSHEY SPACE Chocolate Field near Lamppost #58 Spaces CG-32, 33, 34 Should be worth $15, but don't really need it. PM me if you need me to hold it there for you

PM ME HERE IF YOU WANT ANY OF THESE PARTS, and you could pick up at Hershey ! or you cover shipping- One or more, and Possible PACKAGE DEAL? I bought this Distributor Cap in 1980 as a spare, and never used it. Is it worth $24 to you? I can have it at my Hershey Space Chocolate Field Lamppost #58 Spaces CG 32, 33, 34. Also for 1916 to 1928 CHEVY New Spark Plug Wires - (4) - (Modern cable with correct style cloth wrap to look authentic) Should be worth another $24? PACKAGE DEAL? How about $40 for the Distributor Cap and Plug Wires together? Also have an Original, COIL from my '27 Chevy, was running OK when last used back in 1980 - probably correct for most GM products of the period? Asking $25 Or $60 for the whole package, ---- and I'll include the carburetor intake Pre-Heater (or whatever they call it) At my Hershey Space Chocolate Field - Lamppost #58 Spaces CG 32, 33, 34 Spark plugs are Firestone, NOT Leonard, used but were still good, and only swapped per normal maintenance, and will be included without extra charge ! Pictures added: This distributor cap fits 1927-1928 Chevrolet cars & trucks. Made in the USA! Replaces GM# 821589, 1835536 Specific Applications: 1927 (Late) Passenger & Truck with distributor Model 635B; 1928 All Passenger & Trucks Additional 4-Cylinder Applications: 1926-1928 Chrysler; 1932 Chrysler; 1930-1933 Dodge; 1928-1930 Fageol; 1927-1934 Federal; 1930-1932 Federal; 1936 Federal; 1928-1934 International Harvester - IHC; 1931-1936 International Harvester - IHC; 1928-1931 Plymouth; 1932-1934 Reo; 1928-1931 Stewart

Make mine the Electra 225 Convertible please, White with red interior and white top, or Red with white interior or even yellow with white interior Delivered with all power options and A/C

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ALL of our old cars are convertible/open cars - and with the exception of tow vehicles and a couple of "family" cars, all have also been convertibles as well- Why? Because I like them better. Driving a convertible, you are part of the great outdoors- anything else, you're just looking at the outdoors through a window or a hole in the roof - Just my opinion ...

My wife Dale and I had the pleasure of meeting Peter some years ago. He gave us a personal tour of his fabulous collection, and to this day, the red Delahaye at the center of the room is still one of our favorites. Of course the Lalique collection is amazing. The restoration and storage area was equally exciting to both of us. Later, one of his brothers joined us, as well several other visitors

As @pfiel and @philip roitman have noted, we did drive those speeds in areas where speed limits were either non-existent, or where "Reasonable and Proper" was the guideline - and sometimes when and where we thought we could get away with it. This applies not only to the Riviera, but a great many other and even lesser cars of the era, going back to the 1950s. This is not to say that my friends or I (wink-wink - nod-nod) would have considered such a thing. The key consideration here is that the car IS CAPABLE. On the other hand, even on a new car unexpected things can happen- so, could you drive at "Warp Speed"? Sure, but should you? Of course not. On the other hand, if a 12 point buck decides to bound across the pavement, what is your option - tell him "My Riviera can drive this fast all day long?

The perfect driver when you hope to arrive incognito ???

Same thing with our early cars: 1912 Oakland 1914 Buick 1915 Hudson Never actually needed the clutch, shifting up or down except when taking off from a dead stop, ... But then, I did learn on a 1938, 1947, and WWII Military 6x6 vintage Brockway when I was about age 11) This came in handy on the 1992 VMCCA Glidden Tour in Lexington, Kentucky when the clutch disk on our 1927 Chevy Capitol AA Roadster shattered and separated from the hub.

Our former 1914 Buick B-37 was notably more roomy and comfortable than a Model-T I once drove, and seemed quite able to be reasonably driven on all-day and week-long tours. Our 1915 Hudson SIX-40 Phaeton is even more roomy and comfortable, especially with its 123" wheelbase and considerable power, in contrast to a "T". We really enjoy Brass-Era touring (as well as all other eras).

Took the words out of my mouth - er... keyboard - Waiting for 37 contortionists to stream out

Surely you have the right to live where you wish. Having visited your area, and recognizing local costs by comparison to some areas of the US, I understand that you are in a more expensive, and notably more affluent area. One difference may be the conversion factor between the $US and the $CA. Another factor is surely the average income in your area, compared the differing areas of the US. In some ways we're comparing "Apples and Oranges". California differs from Louisiana, which differs from West Virginia or New Jersey - and they all differ from Hawaii and Alaska. Prior to driving from Louisiana to Ontario in July, were were advised of $1.50 gasoline, and I was paying $3.25 at home, and $4.29 to $4.89US in New York and Pennsylvania while headed to London, Ontario. Then I sat down with some numbers - The $1.50CA was the price per Litre, Four (4) Litres was a bit more than a US gallon, and cost $6.00CA. The Canadian dollar equalled about $0.75US Then I realized 4 Litres cost $6.00CA and was equal to about $4.50 US for a bit more than a US Gallon. The outcome was the there was essentially no real difference in true cost per mile, ... and Diesel in Canada was lower in cost than 87 octane "Regular Ethanol Unleaded". Not living in the States is surely your choice, preference, and desire, and I wish you well. I could live happily in several locations, having relocated multiple times during my careers. I chose southeast Louisiana and the New Orleans area for the many benefits and have never regretted that decision- and we get to enjoy our old cars all year long.

Comfortable? The short answer ? NO ! But then, Model-T was not purchased primarily for comfort. It is, and was an affordable convenience, very collectible, with great parts availability and a strong following.

Yes, Joe, that's seemingly true- But with all due respect, back in 1953, as I recall, most households tended to be single income-earner households. I feel pretty comfortable stating I believe most wives/mothers were stay-at-home mothers/wives. Dads worked - Moms kept house, cooked, cleaned, raised kids, shopped. It was the end of the 1950s, maybe tied to the "Eisenhower Recession" and into the 1960s when 2-income households became less of an anomaly. Dual income households would have been the rare exception in 1953. I was there, and so were a great many of us aging grey-beards in the hobby and on the FORUM. I mowed lawns, washed cars, and did basic odd jobs for a bit of change then, and it wasn't until a few years later that I was able to have my newspaper routes, delivering on my bicycle for a local pharmacy, etc. The odd thing was being able to work with local adult dance bands, as long as the were playing where no alcohol was served,

Lots of variance in those numbers: Burgess, Director, Bureau of the Census, Department of Commerce. The median income of men with money incomes in 1953 was estimated at $3,200, about $100 or 4 percent greater than in 1952. The median income of women was estimated at about $1,200 in both years.Oct 8, 2021 Dad was a full-time 72 hours per week City Firefighter in Linden, NJ since 1946 or 1947. They purchased their first home, a 2-family with rental income to help offset the mortgage, with the help of the VA/GI Bill. Fast forward to 1953 with two growing sons, and a daughter soon to be on the way. When he and Mom (a full-time homemaker) applied for the mortgage on their next home, the application verified his annual salary at $2,400. At the mortgage burning ceremony in 1973, the bank officer looked over the paperwork and told my folks the original application must have been in error and therefore (jokingly?) invalid, as that would have been his "monthly" pay. Amazing what the younger generation didn't appreciate. Dad took the uninformed youngster aside to explain the facts of life, as well as the job market for men returning from overseas and from service in WWII.

Hope you'll be able to join the Lagniappe drive to the restaurant in Lafitte, We expect to be there, as well.

Nice ! My 1948 TC was #4749

And generally had your choice of price range, as most items had three versions, offered as "Good", "Better", and "Best" - and priced modestly, but accordingly. You never really knew if there was a significant difference, and if you really got better quality for the higher price- A major marketing method, and some seemed to be a "Loss-Leader", and Sears was accused of "Bait and Switch" Their CRAFTSMAN tools were great quality, and in the old days they really backed up the Lifetime Guarantee

Dad bought a totally worn out 1942 Chevy Stylemaster Sport Sedan - a 4-door. It was 1950, the car was mechanically all used up, and looked pathetic with its Powder Puff Maroon paint job. Barely running, but affordable, it was a decent alternative to his even worse 1937 Chevy Master DeLuxe Town Sedan. By Thanksgiving, it was rented to the local Post Office, and that rental provided enough to pay for a rebuilt SHORT BLOCK from SEARS. We had planned to do the complete valve job ourselves, but since he was working three jobs, we took the head to Associated Auto Parts on Elizabeth Avenue in Linden, NJ. I think their machine shop charge for the head work was about half the price of the Core Charge on the worn out block, (either $10 or $12). Getting the Chevy back from the Post Office after New Years, we installed the rebuilt engine and sanded the car down to bare metal, then primed it, learned how to block-sand the primer coats to perfection, and completed the job with 19 coats of hand-rubbed black laquer. Now our 1942 (masquerading as a 1951) Chevy was ready to hit the road. I was the kid in the back seat, and my 2 year old little brother was left t visit with Mom's folks in the then very nice East New York section of Brooklyn. We visited the Military Academy at West Point, Fort Ticonderoga, Ausable Chasm, Plattsburg (where dad grew up), Montreal, and all the way to Niagara Falls before returning home. Once back in Linden, Dad declared that the fantastic Chevy was "broken in". Even the vacuum shift worked flawlessly.