SparkEE
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Posts posted by SparkEE
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9 minutes ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
Any details of the other cars--
specifically, the 1954 Nash and the 1952 Chrysler Imperial?
It looks like they are all on Craig’s list.
chrysler: https://shreveport.craigslist.org/cto/d/bossier-city-chrysler-crown-imperial/7096406213.html
1952 Chrysler Crown Imperial
331 Hemi - Fluid drive - runs - good brakes
#3 grade
Asking $20K obonash:
https://shreveport.craigslist.org/cto/d/bossier-city-nash-ambassador-custom/7096395300.html
1954 Nash Ambassador Custom
Overhead valve 6cyl - 252.6 cu.in - 130 hp - body by Pinin Farina - seats fold into bed.
This was a national show winner.
#2 grade
Asking $18K obo
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I enjoyed my time behind the wheel of a ‘56 DeSoto. ...I wonder how hard it would be to come up with the missing upper windshield trim.
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3 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said:
Is that a vacuum tank on the inner fender?
Yep
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On 10/14/2018 at 4:35 PM, John_S_in_Penna said:
For the subject car, that gold leather interior
could look good with some shade of dark green paint.
The combination would be different and good looking--
a great conversation piece at a show.
If only today's cars had such vast possibilities!
Here’s a photo of a 1967 Galaxie from the same year with a dark green exterior / tan interior. ...of course, then you’d want to change the top color too. I say, buy and enjoy!
What is the trunk space like on that Lincoln with the top down? I forget if these are like ford retractable hard tops with the small tub, or if there’s a different configuration - and if access to the trunk is from the side of the car. Visiting a national park in one of these (Yellowstone, Redwoods, ...) with the top down could be life changing.
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On 8/18/2018 at 8:04 AM, charlier said:
A friend of mine recently sold their Dad's 2000 F350 Super Duty Dually.
They sold the truck on Facebook Marketplace in under 10 minutes for FULL asking price.
I wonder if it had "HD" on it? ?
Charlie
A 2000 F350 diesel would have an international 7.3L engine. They have a cult following. ...but will admit I like mine as well.
and the 350 would have HD on it.
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32 minutes ago, Justin Kerns said:
I sure can! We have sold out of the old manual but the club is well into creating a brand new one that will be available in the coming weeks. I can post up here when they're available. They will be greatly improved and updated vs the previous version.
Thanks @Justin Kerns, I’d be interested.
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1 hour ago, alsancle said:
Ah, perfect! Now that I look, I see a thread on it over there at the ACD website. Maybe @Justin Kerns can shed some light on this (very old 2010 link):
https://www.acdclub.org/forum/cord-810-812-acd-forums/4817-transmission-manual-updates
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8 hours ago, JACK M said:
Thank You James.
I bought this one several years ago and fitted it with an OD trans.
Drove it for a few years and let it go in a weak moment.
The new owner shipped it to Florida and immediately changed to dual carbs and exhaust and lowered it, then changed the wheels.
A bit disappointing.
I’m curious, and apologized for going off topic, but did you have to shorten the drive shaft when adding that OD (R10?)?
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10 minutes ago, alsancle said:
I guess I should have pointed out that I'm not actually shifting when I move the lever from 2,3,4 to Neutral because the transmission only shifts when you depress the clutch. It is a "preselector".
There is a wealth of knowledge on how to maintain and repair (and upgrade) the 810/812 Cord within the ACD club.
I follow you. What I meant is, I’d expect to speed up the engine when down shifting (if double clutching were an option) to match the speed of the lower gear. It seems like a good understanding of how to tune the shifting mechanism would be invaluable.
I’ve been a member of the ACD club for a while but missed the articles on tuning a cord transmission, I guess. Maybe I’ll dig back through.
Again, thank you for your answer!
...beautiful vehicles!
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12 hours ago, trimacar said:
One of the tricks for smooth shifts is to regulate the amount of vacuum to the shift cylinders. With full vacuum from the engine, the attempted shift is too fast and may grind gears. There is an inline control valve that is sold specifically for this purpose.
When I did some work on my Cord, I unwittingly slightly kinked the main copper vacuum line to the transmission. The car shifted better than it ever had. I showed it to my good friend who’s doing a little mechanical work on the car (actually, a lot of mechanical), and told him whatever he did, DON’T fix that kink!
Thanks for the reply! I wonder how one accomplishes the proper vacuum setting, sans unintentional vacuum line restriction. Has anyone written a “how to tune your Cord”?
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11 hours ago, alsancle said:
I drove one two weeks ago and the 2nd, third and fourth gear shifts were clunk free. I was grinding going in to first but now I know the trick. You go to neutral as you are slowing down and then to first on the last half turn if the wheel as you stop.
Thanks for the reply! That seems counterintuitive to me. Slow the rpms on the down shift?
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7 hours ago, alsancle said:
I can't emphasis enough what a GREAT cars these are. People get scared of the mechanics, but they are fairly easily sorted and the club has figured out all the minor engineering updates that Cord didn't have time to.
What’s the trick to accomplishing smooth shifts (the mechanical portion, not the operator portion)? As a kid a family friend had one that was well sorted and that particular aspect was a point of positive distinction for their car, but I don’t recall ever hearing the method for accomplishing it.
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I can’t help answer your questions, but can reply to keep it near the top of the list. It looks like a beautiful car and reminds me of the 1956 DeSoto (without power steering) my brother and I drove when we were younger. I really enjoyed the car and always figured I’d get a ‘56 DeSoto or Imperial one of these days. Good luck, it sure looks like a great car to me!
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This one is on the HCCA site (leaving phone info to the other website):
https://www.hcca.org/admore.php?num=14447
1928 Chrysler Sport Roadster, AACA National 1st.
The following into is on the main page (select return to ads, from the above link):
This Chrysler is in Excellent cosmetic and mechanical condition
In 1928, Chrysler sent 4- 72 Deluxe roadsters to Le mans finishing 3rd and 4th
Also entered and received a class win at the Mille Miglia in Italy. Today the car is eligible for the Le mans classic, and Storica Mille Miglia
Just completed a through service, and is ready to go. Quality Professional restoration, justified by a AACA national first
Fitted with:
- Trunk rack
- Side curtains
- Golf club door
- "Mercury Wing" cap
- Rumble seat
- Red Head Engine
This car is fun to drive, easy to steer, easy to stop with great hydraulic brakes, and a fun, sporty Chrysler
Car in CA and offered at $54,900. OBO
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The earlier high compression heads were labeled redhead (I’ve a friend who spent a few decades finding one for his):
Allpar and Wikipedia should have the engine specs your looking for, though I will say I’ve never seen a spitfire head on a prewar car (a few things look “off” to me on the green car):
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I’ve always been under the impression that design was for airflows. Can someone more knowledgeable than me shed some light on the application?
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On 1/10/2020 at 8:27 AM, dpcdfan said:
I have 2 units. Here's pictures of each.
Everything arrived very well packed, thanks!
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Lots of great parts! Thank you for posting here.
It would help if you update each posting with your location and what you are asking for each part pictured. I’ve had a 1932 Plymouth almost since I could drive (legally) and love the car. I’m sure there will be folks interested in what you have. When your multiple postings start to get separated, it will be harder to locate separated details not in every ad post, such as location (which is important for heavier parts). If you lived closer, I’d want to ask about a package deal. Others who do live closer might be interested in that same thing, in case you want to factor that in. Good luck with the sale!
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Thanks Ed! Now I’m curious about my Auburn. ...time for some research.
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1 hour ago, 58L-Y8 said:
If only they had matched the paint color with the blue broadcloth, painted the wood spokes and fitted black wall tires, it would look very elegant and consistent with the taste of its era. "Less is more."
I have a very original, low mileage 1933 Auburn sedan with natural / not painted spokes (and a dark blue exterior). @edinmass I’m curious, do you know, were all Pierce wood spokes painted in 1933?
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We had a ‘73 Torino wagon - worst car I’ve ever been associated with (but I’ve never had a car out or the 80’s). Maybe the two doors were better... maybe. The ‘71 has similar interior design and brings back bad memories. On the other hand, we put 450k+ miles on a ‘73 F100 - clutch at 200k and not too much else - possibly the last one with an oil bath air cleaner. The ‘71 galaxy coupe was a great car too - but big. You had to plan ahead so you had enough space to get out when you parked and opened those gigantic doors.
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On 2/2/2020 at 6:02 PM, 32plywood said:
one listed on E-bay
The 1932 Plymouth PB engine in Quebec, Canada?
This one might take more than a little elbow grease. ...but I love my PB.
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I’m interested. Just sent an email.
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Do you recall where you found the pdf version? I see one in various pieces here: http://pontiac.oldcarmanualproject.com
1939 Chrysler Royal 4dr in Illinois $4,800
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted · Edited by SparkEE (see edit history)
This is my teenage daughter’s favorite car (she’s claimed ours as her own already), though I have to say the cruise and climb overdrive really makes a big difference. There isn’t a picture of the left side of the dash/steering column for the Illinois car, to see if the OD knob is there. The firewall tag would also have “OD”, I believe.