Jump to content

idrjoe_sandiego

Members
  • Posts

    543
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. Wow John, that Victory is in great shape. If it was part of the package deal from Buenos Aires, Argentina, that one must have been the cream of the crop. Look at that top!! As the story goes, my Dad heard about a group of three guys who ventured down to Argentina to round up a bunch of old cars. The idea was that they would fill a shipping container with six to eight cars from the 20's-30's. When they returned to San Diego, each partner got their pick of one car to keep themselves, while the remainder were sold off as is. The partners then split the profits. Dad heard about one of the three partners who still had his "pick" in the back yard and now needed the money. He apparently had the car for several years where it sat near a dryer vent in the rear of his house. My Dad laughs when he tells the story because it looked like the car had been "tarred and feathered!" The owner lived in Leucadia, CA next to Encinitas and built cool custom tandem bicycles for a living. Dad purchased it over 20 years ago as a right hand drive. Thanks for posting that John. Maybe JB knows where the car is now. The only Victory tourings I have seen are owned by DB Club members back east. JB is one of them. I have a picture somewhere of the other one and I'll post it if I locate it.
  2. Alex, sorry I didn't think you were the painter, because in the picture the paint looks old. And yes, obviously a painted-on whatever means nothing- about as much someone's (your seller's) uninformed word.
  3. OK George, I see what you mean. Thanks for the info on that. You learn something every day here on the DB Forum. And John, as always, your keen sense for detail amazes me. On closer inspection, indeed, I now see the "factory cutout" for the valve stem. Good eye my friend.
  4. George, it looks like you have more than blasting and painting to do. What are you doing about the big bite that's missing from the rim? Welding is going to throw it out of balance. Usually when there is a crack like that, sandblasting will reveal a lot more! Good Luck with it though, I am dealing with these problems on some of my 1929 DA Wire Wheels. Joe
  5. Leigh Anne- can you show us what you're working with there?? I love the yellow one J-lo! I'm sure that turns some heads. Joe
  6. In your last post/thread http://forums.aaca.org/f143/what-have-i-just-purchased-304901.html) you were wondering whether you purchased a 1924 Dodge parts car?? Didn't that "1922 Dodge" painted on the hood make you the slightest bit suspicious?
  7. So now he insulted as well as wrong. Oh well. What was he asking for his car?
  8. Glen, hi from San Diego. Looking for DA parts: Wire wheels 19" with Snap Rings, starter motor, generator, cowl lamps, distributor, master cylinder, carb. Any Tailights/buckets/mounts also? Could you PM me with the info? Thanks Joe Say Hi to Edna too!
  9. Dave-you've got it... that's the answer to leak #3 ... See my latest thread on the "how-to"
  10. Continuing on you will see the completion of the project. I will have a few more installments on further improvements that go beyond stopping the leaks and actually improving the performance of the steering box and ultimately improving the handling of your vehicle. The hot rodding continues. Stay tuned...
  11. The following information is specifically about some modifications I made to my 1929 Dodge DA Gemmer Steering Box. The Gemmer is used in many makes and models of cars so much of this can be applied to other steering boxes. Any information you see here is strictly for amusement. Should you decide to try this on your own automobile, do so at your own risk. The ideas presented here are an amalgam of information available on the web as well as some original ideas as applied to my vehicle. The first two parts of this thread can be found here This new thread will address the biggest leak found with the Gemmer. This leak is at the lower end of the steering box where the lighting switch is located (labeled #34 on the Exploded diagram). Please refer to the exploded diagram of the Gemmer found in the 1929-30 Dodge DA Owner's Manual. The idea here is to add a stainless steel tube to the end plate which is about 6" long. The level of the gear oil in the steering box will be lower than the tube's opening,therefore ending the nagging leak. The Ford Model A uses a Gemmer and an added feature in many aftermarket dealers is a stamped steel tube similar to what I describe here. They are usually made very cheaply and frankly don't work very well (in my experience). Additionally, they won't work on the Dodge box as they are different sizes. The following pictures will help describe the procedure. The third picture is one I photo-shopped the SS tube in on a side view of the Gemmer so you can see how this idea works. The rest of the pics are captioned and are self-explanatory.
  12. Just bend up a new flat one and tack it to the inside of the original. Knock the rust off and paint the thing. Done. When do we go for a ride?
  13. OK Jason, since you asked... Look for a new thread coming very soon... "Hot Rodding the Gemmer Steering Box". You will find Part 3 here! https://forums.aaca.org/topic/170917-hot-rodding-the-gemmer-steering-box/
  14. Mrcvs-It sounds like you are trying to evaluate a car from a distance. Unless you see the thing with your own eyes and go out and touch it with your own hands, don't waste your time. Ask me how I know. In fact, the car in question looks a lot like your picture. The seller was near Red Wing, Minnesota (just across the Mississippi in Wisconsin). He provided me with some awesome, but small, photos of the car and a marvelous story of how it had been from a museum... So all the way from San Diego I go. 3000 miles this SOB let me come just to find that the "museum" was his barn and the pictures he used to describe the car were at least 20 years old. Needless to say, I didn't come back with the car and they are still looking for the owner. I believe he is in a museum some where. I swear he said he could swim. P.S. FYI the smaller the picture, the bigger the story will be.
  15. I think Tony above said that the VIN is on the right hand side of the frame near the REAR SHACKLE of the FRONT SPRING. You may be looking in the wrong place. You still may have to get a wire brush to remove paint and dirt to see it.
  16. The VIN you posted D1003763 doesn't agree with any list I have, since the VIN in the years in question all start with an "A". If the "D" were an "A" then the car is likely a 1928 128/129. If you don't want to verify the actual # on the frame (which you should do), you could measure the wheelbase. The 1923-26 WB is listed as 116" as are the 1927 Models 126 and 124. The later 1928 models 128/129 the WB is listed as 108". Big difference.
  17. Bob , I can't tell for certain from your pictures, but does your cowl vent stick up above the surface like the mystery car does? Your vent appears flat or level with the surrounding cowl. I have seen them both ways in different year Dodges. Perhaps a clue to the year/body?
  18. Dok-nice car, hope you can get it for a reasonable price. Just be sure to deduct for having to clean the garage to get it out!
  19. Bob, I agree with you on the est. price of the car, but I'd love to know where you could get a top for $1000. I'd say at minimum double that, then add another $600 plus for the missing top bows. Then add $400-500 more if you need side curtains made. Add another $150 for the rear window and frame. And that's conservative. If it was a Model A, you could be a bit closer at $1000. In the last year, the bows, the top side curtains and top boot on my DA Phaeton was over $7K.
  20. Hey Dave-funny you mentioned that. I just dug out my old ARCHER (Radio Shack/Tandy) inverter-probably the same one you have. Usually once you do find it, you'll realize you have the lost the instruction sheet like I did, so just in case, here it is:
  21. Doug glad you found your solution. Back to the original question of 6v to 12 v converter (actually an inverter), here is another website that sells inexpensive boosters and inverters that claim 4.7 to 5 amp output for NON-INDUCTIVE loads only i.e., radios, cell phones, gps=yes / MOTORS=NO!! Antique Automobile Radio, modern stereo for vintage cars
  22. Absolutely 1936 D2 !! And thanks for the kind words. I like your pictures of the fuel line before and after exposure to modern fuel. That really hammers home the point and I'm glad you shared that info. Hopefully Zach is out there in the garage as we speak. (Or he has an alternate ride to McDonald's).
  23. Ok then. Now on to leak #2 which spews gear lube out at the end of the sector shaft near the pitman arm. The grease and oil ends up all over your frame rail, then on to the floor. This modification will require a machine shop to complete if you don't have a milling machine in your garage. I don't know what a machinist would charge to do this, but it should be fairly inexpensive. I am only a hobby machinist and it didn't take me long to do this. The research on the proper seal has already been done. Counter-bore your housing to the OD of the SKF seal you see in the photos. Counter-bore depth will be about 75% the thickness of the seal. Apply sealant to the OD of the seal and press fit the seal in place. Follow the pictures below for details and just like that, you're done. No more leaks here! Stay tuned...
  24. Ok, let's look at Leak #1 tonite. Leak #1 is found at the steering gear housing gasket (#40 on exploded diagram). This gasket is supposed to keep the juice from leaking out from between the two cast housing sections. If you really want to stop the leaks, figure on a tear down/rebuild to getterdone. Start by disassembling your box. Taking some pictures along the way can help assure a successful reassembly. Next, clean and degrease all the strata of grease/axle lube/gear oil/dirt and who knows what else out of there. You will use your old cork gasket as your pattern to make a new gasket (That's the old cork one you see in the previous post-yea, the one oozing gear oil). I used a roll of 1/16" good quality gasket material to make a new one. When you reassemble the housing, coat the gasket with hylomar gasket sealer. I don't recommend using silicone here. You want this sealer to hold up against a constant exposure to the lubricant, but still must allow the individual housing sections to move. The two cast housing sections will need to be able to rotate with respect to one another when you finally adjust the sector/worm mesh. See pics of the broken down box and the new gasket installed. Stay tuned...
×
×
  • Create New...