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idrjoe_sandiego

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Posts posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. I may be overlooking the simplest of things but how do you remove the rear wheel bearings in a '29 DA? The front wheel bearings were in the actual hub, but these rear bearings are in the axle end of the rear end and held in place by a grease seal that I don't want to destroy. Anyone know how to remove the grease seal to remove the bearings? Thanks.

    Bob- I think I understand your question. Yes, you will have to destroy the inner axle felt seal.

    Here's a little write-up on the subject: http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=376932&p=1325429#post1325429

  2. Do you need to remove the rear wheel bearings or axle seals in a 1929 Dodge DA? Maybe a few pictures might shed some light on the subject. Here goes...

     

    Photo 1: The rear axle shaft is held in place by six bolts that hold the rear brake backing plate and the outer rear axle seal retainer. In this example, the outer rear axle seal retainer is an aftermarket version made of aluminum and contains a modern lip-type outer axle seal. (I highly recommend this upgrade- we have used it for over 5 years without any trouble).

     

    Photo 2: Shows rear brake backing plate and the outer rear outer axle seal retainer after removal.

     

    Photo 3: The rear axle shaft can now be removed from rear axle housing. Put the axle nut and washer back on the shaft. With a few light taps with a slide hammer-type puller, the axle slips right out, along with the outer wheel bearing cup. You can also re-install the drum and the axle nut and use the drum itself as the slide hammer. (I recommend using an actual puller- do not chance messing up your drum). The photo shows the inner and outer tapered wheel bearings back to back on the now-removed axle shaft. These bearings are pressed on. Many ways to remove them-best way being pressed off. Some people cut them off with a die grinder. Be careful if you choose the latter approach. In any case, these bearings must be replaced if removed from axle.

     

    Photo 4: With the rear axle shaft now out of the way, the photo shows in order a) the axle-housing flange, the inner wheel bearing cup, c) the axle shims, and then d) the inner axle grease seal (steel-cased felt seal).

     

    Photo 5: A CLOSE- UP of Picture 4: showing in order a) the axle-housing flange,  the inner wheel bearing cup, c) the axle shims, and then d) the inner axle grease seal (steel-cased felt seal). ( I am working on finding a replacement modern lip-type inner axle seal. I will post results, if successful).

     

    Photo 6: This photo shows in order a) the axle-housing flange, the inner wheel bearing cup, c) the axle shims, and then d) the inner axle grease seal (steel-cased felt seal) which I have now started to remove by destroying it. If someone knows a magic trick, bring it on!

     

    Photo 7:  Pulling the inner bearing cup with slide-hammer type puller. Once the inner seal is gone, you can get a bite on the inner cup (and the shims that are immediately behind the cup). This took a few healthy slams with the puller before the cup gave up the fight.

     

    Photo 8: showing the inner bearing cup and the two thin shims that are immediately behind the cup. Your axle may have more or less shims than mine. The shims are there to allow for the specified axle shaft end-play. I recommend checking your end-play before you pull the axle just for comparison sake. The actual shim dimensions will vary with your new bearing/cup stack. Try to be gentle with the shims if you intend to re-use them. Mine were only 0.005 inch thick, so handle them with respect. I beat the living sh*t out of mine. I was able to flatten them out, but I will probably find replacements.

     

    Photo 9: shows inner or outer bearing cup (flip-side). The inner and outer bearings and cups happen to be the same on the 1929 Dodge DA.

    Hope this helps-cheers!

     

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  3. Joe, you might try Then & Now for those inner seals. I ordered a set for my '32 and they came made with modern materials. Their email is: ljthen2@aol.com

    And, let me know if you want to place a wanted ad in the DBC News. Email: DBCNews@cox.net

    Thanks Phil- I will try Then and Now. I have got an order coming from a vendor for what may be an acceptable modern neoprene lip seal. According to the best measurements I could get off of the old seal, anyway. Of course, the old seal was thoroughly raped, pillaged, and plundered. We'll see how that goes. I will post the new part # if it's a green light. Obtaining this seal has been a problem child for a while.

    And now the great news- Success finding a NOS replacement axle! A very nice gentleman, Mr. Nelson Pease, N.B. Pease & Co came through. Ph# 413-283-7620. I looked up his company for a website and didn't find one. But I did find a very cool picture of his place. Check it out= click on the picture below for a larger view. I would love to see the inside!

    So thanks to everyone. And Wyobob, I may be interested in a spare-so I will email you. post-54582-143142631508_thumb.jpg

  4. It appears your truck is in the listing as 3/4 group if you know for sure you have 10Q clutch in your truck.

    The 10RD lists as the DE, DEW, DEF, etc. group. These trucks were the GB carry overs and the DEW, DEF were the DE model with optional tires and heavier rear springs. My parts truck build card shows 4/11/30. This may not be the actual build date.

    I would believe there plenty of parts around to build trucks and they used them till they were used up. The transition years to the new model trucks is confusing.

    Your truck is a DA 124 and has a different frame design and body panels.

    OR..... Dave, someone's already had their way with your truck... :)

  5. Thanks Pete, John, Robin. With all of your additional information, I was able to dig a little deeper and found a few missing puzzle pieces. Here goes...

    The general outline of the events are on the registration form. I briefly read this form awhile back and I recall seeing alot of "???" in the schedule , as well as seeing the "Evergreen Space Museum" listed as an event on Wed, Thurs, AND Friday. I recall briefly reading the registration form the first time around and thinking "this can't possibly be the final schedule --No way do you need three days to see the Evergreen!"

    You have to be a member of the Buick Club and register your car and yourself in advance to participate in the various events, tours, and the judged car show.

    Just to clarify this point to others who may want to join this meet or future BCA National meets, after re-reading the registration form, I discovered the following near the top of the form:

    "NON-BCA MEMBER AT LARGE REGISTRATION" so people like ROBIN and myself can register themselves and their cars. It costs $20 more and you won't be eligible for getting your car judged or registered in the "archival" category.

    Pete, don't feel bad, I missed it, too. And the point is well taken about joining the BCA to get all the juicy details through the Club Newsletter.

    Here's the link to the registration form : http://www.buickclub.org/2014/Oct%2026%202013%20Revised%20Portland%20registration%20form.pdf

    Thanks to John for educating me on the "groups". 500 posts, indeed, but mostly those are on technical or mechanical related subjects. Not so much on Club inner workings. Yes, I wish now I had asked two months sooner!

    And finally thanks to Robin, who wanted to know some of the same stuff I did (only you get to the point a lot quicker than I). I found some answers for you, too. Check out the very bottom of the registration form where it says "Registration deadline is July 6, 2014... LATE OR DAY OF EVENT registration AT MEET DIRECTOR'S DISCRETION"

    BTW Robin, that's very cool that you are going to bring your Dad. That was my plan, as well. Bring my Dad and the 1937 Limited 90 up to Portland for some vintage Buick action. He was a BCA member for many years with folks like Harry Logan, Jack Corliss and Wayne Yonce. Me, I just work on the old cars and love to drive them. That's why I was inquiring about how much actual " Buick touring" takes place at the national meets.

    Hope everyone has a great time in Portland. I guess maybe I'll get started on next year's plans......

  6. Presumably you are referring to items advertised by Hans Compter. I knew he was hungry, but that looks like a serious rip-off too me.

    Spinneyhill- I agree, Hans is apparently the "Neiman-Marcus" of the used parts world. He certainly has redefined "Needless-Markup" for me. And besides, my spell-checker doesn't like his name- keeps wanting to change it to "Hans Computer".

  7. Questions from a potential Buick Club member / first time attendee at a Buick National Meet:

    Please, let me apologize in advance- my intention here is not to criticize or complain. I was contemplating joining the Buick Club and attending the National Meet next week. As a newbie to both, I am looking for some info and clarification.

    For months now, I have considered attending 2014 national meet. Once a week, I check in at the Buick club website and on AACA Buick forums waiting anxiously for the details. The Buick club website offers a general description, but it was quite vague. I have read forum posts from many members asking for this information to no avail. Then, with only one week to go, the actual details finally appear (this thread). Was I looking in the wrong place?

    I realize people join Car Clubs for many reasons. Personally, I enjoy the camaraderie with others that have vehicles from way back when. I enjoy driving vintage cars. I really enjoy getting together with a bunch of folks that want to drive their old cars on actual "driving tours" in a "rolling museum" fashion.

    So, after perusing the National Meet itinerary, it appears there is but one "driving tour" listed. Save for the "judging,” all the rest of the events look like bus tours or meetings. If that were correct, why would someone drive or trailer their vintage Buick (1400 miles one way, in my case) just to go on a BUS tour while the cars sit idle in a parking lot? Call me dumb, but I don't get it. Maybe the Buick National Meet is intended for events other than driving-type tours. Don't know, never been to one.

    On the itinerary, referring to the event: “1959 Division Driving Tour 9:15 am -?? Driving tour on Historic Columbia Gorge Highway"

    This, I assume, is an actual "drive your Buick” tour. What does “1959 Division” mean?

    LAST QUESTION:

    So, does the Buick club normally sponsor any actual "drive your vintage Buick" car tours on the west coast? As in "rolling museum" type tours? If so, do many pre-war Buicks show up or are they mostly modern iron (Reattas and such)? (I see the Orange County group has organized two groups to drive up to Portland together. That's what I'm talking about!)

    Thanks for your time and patience, Joe.

  8. Thanks Bob. I am sure it could have been worse- surprisingly very little drama.

    I didn't see anything like that listed on Myers site, but he, no doubt, doesn't have it all listed (e.g., Roy Brister's inventory).

    I'll give him call. Sounds like you were having some fun with your DA in the rear axle hub arena, too. All better now?

  9. Hi guys. While out on a recent tour, an axle shaft broke. Fortunately, no drama. While pulling away from a stop sign at about 5mph, shifting from 1st to 2nd, there was a slight pop, then no traction in any gear. It was also fortunate the tour just ended, so AAA intervened for the ride home.

    Now I am on the hunt for a replacement axle half shaft for a 1929 Dodge Brothers DA. According to data I have, this was originally a "US Axle" part #527. (30 9/16" long). The Lempco replacement axle shaft part# is LD27. Anyone out there have one (or two) for sale, or do you have any leads for same?

    I have a request in to Nelson Pease in Palmer, Mass. (Thanks to Gary Ash for that tip). Haven't heard back from him yet.

    http://vapinc.com in Colorado claims to have a huge NOS axle inventory, but none for the DA.

    And, like everyone else that tries, the inner axle seals are hard to find. Only supplier I have found that might have some is Bernbaum. I am trying to find a modern non-felt seal for replacement. The stainless steel round shims need replaced too. McMaster-Carr has some that are close, but not exact. They appear to be OD=2.75" x ID=2.25" x 0.005" thick. The outer axle seals are readily available.

    Thanks for any help or advice you have on the seals or shafts or shims. Joe

  10. Use lacquer thinner. Wipe on, wipe off the yellow.

    I agree, John. LT seems to be the only effective means of cleaning this brown crud off.

    Frank, I wish I had a couple of grandkids to do the heavy scrubbing for me! LOL

    Lenny-any brand names you recommend for "truck wash" ?

    27Dodger-nine years-wow. How do you apply "rubberized roof coat"?

    Bill-white tennis shoe dressing? sounds worth trying. How do you mask off the black?

    KCL- as always, you have great info to share. I don't have any problem with our OLD WWW's... it's just the new crap they are peddling (date codes after 2003-2005). Oh, by the way-I was kind of kidding about the climate controlled garage. Actually EVERYONE in my neighborhood has a climate controlled garage.

    Doug- BLACKWALLS?? are you crazy??

  11. Has anyone had this problem lately? Over the last 3-4 years, no matter which brand of Wide Whitewall tires I have purchased from two different unnamed vintage tire companies (UTC's) have turned from nice bright white to SH*T brown in under six months. Some have never been on the road, some have never left the climate controlled garage. Doesn't matter. Clean 'em on Sunday, by next Saturday , you can repeat the annoying process.

    Any suggestions are welcome regarding alternate sources. Perhaps there is a company out there making these tires actually concerned with quality control.

    Please see a parallel thread on AACA General discussion forum: http://forums.aaca.org/f169/tire-advice-700x20-whitewalls-needed-356524.html

  12. Here's some pics showing the poor workmanship and UGLY BROWN "whitewalls". By the way, in my last post, I implied that the problem was "fixed". In fact, it is pretty far from fixed. The large UTC continues to ship this crap and we continue paying for all the peripheral headaches. I am desperately seeking a real fix or a company that cares about quality and not just the bottom line. In the meantime, I am stuck sending back yet another TEN Tires.

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  13. Matt , I feel your PAIN. I have been going through a carbon copy of your scenario, except for I have FOUR sets of FIVE WWW tires now involved. That's TWENTY whitewall tires out of TWENTY that are showing up brown. UGLY BROWN. Disgusting BROWN .

    I have struggled with this issue for going on nearly years now and chose to remain silent . In my experience, if one makes any waves for vendors who are in bed with AACA, they send out their mafioso post-haste. Once again, we are treading on sacred ground.

    See my previous posts WARNING: DEFECTIVE INNER TUBES for the entire story here:

    http://forums.aaca.org/f143/warning-defective-inner-tubes-286287.html

    However, since you, Matt, brought it up, I can't sit on the sidelines any longer. Besides, who in this business is more credible than you? I seriously can't believe that they treated a heavy like you, this way.

    (FYI, I'm not insulting Matt-- a "heavy" in sales is a VERY, VERY good customer).

    In fairness, I received nothing but very friendly and accommodating service from both UTC's and they were happy to "warranty" the problem. Of course they should be happy-they are holding the money and we are stuck with the garbage.

    They were also very friendly as they:

    1) repeatedly botched the orders

    2) sent out wrong items or quantities

    3) replacement tires were now "discontinued"

    4) they wanted me to either pay for the difference for the substituted item OR accept an inferior product that did not match.

    Talk about bumbling and incompetence. Any other company that was a NON-MONOPOLY would be shuttered by now. After hearing Matt's saga, I am beginning to believe this is by design. Could a reputable company screw up that many times in almost the EXACT same pattern TWICE? What am I thinking? Naw, it has to be a coincidence.

    So here's a small snippet of the dozens of emails I sent to "fix" the problem:

    THE PROBLEM: The tires have turned from white-walls to brown-walls or yellow-walls.Despite hours of hard intensive cleaning, within a week these white walls become an ugly brown color. Over the past year, extra effort was required to keep the tires looking clean. If I cleaned them up on Sunday, by the following Saturday, they need cleaning again. One tire refuses to clean up at all.In this hobby, it s all in the details. These tires are an unsightly headache and I refuse to waste another minute cleaning them. One more thing: the whitewall/blackwall interface is thin and peeling in places as well.

    A DISTURBING PATTERN: Incidentally, this is the second batch (NOW FOURTH BATCH)of tires with the identical symptoms. The first batch was a set of 6 Lester WWW tires made by (large east coast UTC) and distributed through (The west coast UTC). (The west coast UTC) handled the warranty claim on these. Additionally, we went through hell and high water with the defectiveinner tubes that went along with this order. These tubes would shred and split without warning!

    Clearly, the last 2-3 years demonstrates an extremely disturbing pattern of poor quality control and repeatedly marketing the same defects again and again. With the first batch of brown tires, (The west coast UTC) replaced the tires and shredding inner tubes. Fortunately no one got hurt. (The west coast UTC) however, made no allowance for the time, inconvenience, and expense involved with demounting, remounting, balancing, packaging, and re-shipping these defective products.

    It was so expensive to pay someone to screw up my wire wheels after repeated mounts and dismounts, that I purchased my own tire machine and a computerized spin balancer . Now I need a trained pit crew.

  14. I have a 1930 dodge inline eight-cylinder engine, its state is 100% OEM. I missing parts (radiator cap, two cups of wheels and center radiator emblem (dodge). seeking restoration manuals and parts manuals know their original colors and other details. perifecto the car is in conservation status but lack detail painting and upholstery.

    I appreciate anyone who can help me in this work of restoration and parts search.

    Greetings from Argentina

    Hello and welcome to AACA forums. A very good source of information for these rare vehicles is through the Dodge Brothers Club. The membership has several cars like yours. I know two people personally that have recently restored Dodge 8's. One is a 1930 DC8 Straight 8 Rumble Seat Coupe; the other, a 1930 DC8 Straight 8 Sedan. They are beautiful cars with amazing engines. Information on the club can be found at Dodge Brothers Club

    You can PM me for specific contact information for the owner's of the DC8's. For their privacy, I won't publish that info openly without permission.

    The Dodge Brothers Club also has a technical adviser for your vintage car. He is VERY knowledgeable about these vehicles and is eager to help new members. I would also recommend that you post this question specifically in the Dodge Brothers Section of this forum for better answers to your questions.

    Now let me ask you a question: I recently finished a 1929 Dodge Brothers Phaeton that was originally from Argentina (near Buenos Aires). While restoring the vehicle, I found that some of the upholstery door panels were replaced by a man (tapateria) who wrote his address and name inside the panels when he did the work in 1957. His town was Villa Eloisa near Buenos Aires. I looked up this town and found a current phone directory of the residents. It turns out that someone with the same last name still lives at the address written inside the panel. My guess is that it is the tapateria's son or grandson that lives there now. By any chance do you live near there? Or would you be willing to contact him for me? My Spanish is ok, but not fluent. I'm sure the grandson would love to see this panel, and maybe he knows something about this car.

    Thanks, Joe

  15. Hi Reid- I replaced my front axle on my 1929 Pontiac Roadster a couple of years ago due to over-sized and eccentric king pin holes. I inspected the original axle for a part number and to my surprise, I found a "bow-tie" on the axle. After a bit of internet searching I found a vendor who crossed the part # to a 1929 Chevy. He had a NOS axle in stock and my problems were solved. So look into the Chevy idea- I'm sure it will be a lot easier to find Chevy spindles. You might look carefully at your axle for the bow-tie and/or part # to confirm this. I suspected my spindles might have cracks in them so I had them magnafluxed. Turned out they were OK. Joe

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