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Everything posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. A chemical metal etching can make the paint really stick without taking the chance of overscuffing your hubcap. The POR line has at least two such products: Metal Ready and AP120 Metal Prep. Check out their products below (or any POR dealer). Joe http://www.terebinthpaints.com/page/17510204
  2. Bob here's that link again: http://plymouthbulletin.com/smf/index.php?topic=1962.msg9814#msg9814
  3. I'll get one bundled up & on its way today but I don't think its gonna be there for your Tuesday meeting.
  4. Bob here's a brief rundown on those early O/D Chrysler transmissions. It's pretty sketchy and probably there are many on the forum that know alot more about these things than I and can fill in the gaps. I have two of these units for sale and my recollection is that they are 1937-38 2-piece (3 speed toploader manual trans and o/d unit bolted together as one) non-electric Chrysler units. They are in storage and I have to pull them out to take photos and determine exactly what year/style they are. Chrysler had many transmission variations but the input shafts and 6 cyl engine mountings were often very similar. In 1936 Chrysler & Desoto sixes offered a 3spd Manual Trans and a 3spd Manual Trans w/ overdrive. This was a non-electric controlled O/D unit(centrifugal clutch). The whole works was inside the transmission case. In 1937-38 Chrysler & Desoto sixes offered a 3spd Manual Trans and a 3spd Manual Trans w/ OD. Again, this was a non-electric controlled O/D unit(centrifugal clutch). These were two seperate units bolted together. In 1939-40 Chrysler & Desoto sixes offered a 3spd Manual Trans and a 3spd Manual Trans w/ a semi-electric controlled O/D unit this time with a centrifugal clutch and a throttle kickdown. Again, two seperate units bolted together. The third type of O/D trans was fully electrically controlled (i.e. no cenrifugal clutch- used a cenrifugal governor instead.) I'm not sure if Chrysler used this type at all. Maybe someone else knows. Later in 1941-42 Chrysler & Desoto sixes offered both the usual 3spd Manual Trans and a semi-automatic trans (no o/d) with vacuum-assist called the Vacamatic or the Simplimatic (same animal)-this type employed 4 forward gear ranges: 2 in high range and 2 in low range. This was a precursor to the later fluid drive and M6 transmissions found in the 46-50 model year Chrysler products. Also, while on the Plymouth club web forum I came across this thread where one participant named Don St Peter said that he installed an O/D transmission in his 1940 Plymouth. Check it out. http://plymouthbulletin.com/smf/index.php?topic=1979;prev_next=next
  5. Are you referring to a manual transmission with o/d?
  6. Doug, I seem to remember Dave Johnson in Oregon making some H2O pump wrenches. I know he advertises hubcap wrenches in the DB news. And if he doesn't make them now, I am sure he could.
  7. Uh-oh Jason- just discovered some photos I took of that split rear bumper before I took the medallions off. Fortunately the camera has a better memory than I. Because it looks like the split bumper has the same football shaped backer as Jack's and My DA sedan. As I told you, and you'll see in the pics that both sides of this bumper had the correct medallion, but only one side had a backer. So that leaves me really wondering where I got the rectangle backer-the one that works so well. I need a parts manager!
  8. Great point P-D. Clearly a F-M wheel is not the answer. Looks like I'll be out in the machine shop today. Fortunately I kept the right hand drive steering column after I made the swap to LHD--The RHD column is 3" shorter than the LHD. Now the challenge will be if the worm drive that's pressed onto the steering shaft is the same in the two boxes. I suspect they may be mirror images of each other.
  9. Any updates on this project guys? Looks like I might need one as my Dad (and best friend) doesn't seem to comfy with the newly restored steering wheel rubbing on his belly. He didn't like the suggestion that he just ride shotgun either. So it's a neville or back to the machine shop to start re-engineering the steering column. The 29 DA Phaeton has a fixed front seat and really limits the extra baggage (politically correct?) you can comfortably drive with.
  10. Wow John--REALLY nice job on that silica-bronze radiator cap. Quit your day job & go full-time exotic parts caster... And Jason, its true, size doesn't really matter! If the shoe fits, use it. "Now I need a version of your football shaped backing plate as that is what I need for my car." Uh-oh... Maybe I should drive the whole thing to Florida! Only joking--I'll continue dismantling my car for you (but only for you).
  11. Jason-with regard to your picture in the first post, that backer on the far right is not DA. They definitely don't have the "dish" shape. And the picture of your "short" medallion sitting next to the one I sent you is probably a knock-off (Shrunk in the recasting process). All of mine are the same length, width, and height but do vary from individual to individual regarding the subtle curves where the bumper meets the medallion. Kind of almost custom-fit in a way. As I indicated to you in prior emails that if you want a real nice match between the bumper bars and the medallion, you can get out your dremel and dial it in before you polish and plate it. It all depends on how fussy you want to be. Mine are already plated so its a done-deal for me. I also mentioned to you that the rectangular backers (rectangular not square-sorry) yielded the best looking match-ups. I tried a bunch of combinations! It makes sense that the rectangular one gives you the best fitment as it shadows the medallion shape very closely. I would prefer to use this shape on the Phaeton. It appears that your picture from Jack is the identical setup to my DA Sedan. The final picture you show is a bit incorrect as it shows two nuts used instead of only one.
  12. Manuel,if this is a NOS seal with leather, and not a modern neoprene replacement, you need to soak that puppy in oil for 24 hrs before attempting to install it.
  13. Jason, I was just going to email you on this discovery, and I see you already posted here. So for the benefit of others interested in the subject, I'm posting some pics of the bumper medallion and backers from my 1929 DA Deluxe Sedan. This car has the full rear bumper and now I believe the medallions and backers are correct for that vehicle since both the F & R are identical and this car is very original, except for the paint. The rectangular shaped backer which I sent you is from the split rear bumper and most likely is correct for that one. But as I told you, the square shaped backer makes the whole arrangement fit much better than the football shaped ones. Also attached are some photos of my collection of backers front and back. Perhaps John Keiser31 would like to chime in here cause I believe he has a post on the subject, too.
  14. Library Director, excuse me for sounding computer illiterate, but what kind of file is a .djvu ? What kind of viewer do you have to use? Thx, Joe
  15. Hi Grizzly-Congrats on your new motor. If you haven't lit it off by now, here's a few suggestions that I might add. 1) Make sure your motor is statically timed and you aren't 180 degrees out on the distributor. You want this thing to light quickly. Some people will keep cranking and cranking a new motor that won't light. What this will tend to do is suck raw gas into the chambers and "wash out" the critical oil layer on the cylinder walls. If it doesn't light really soon, stop and let the fuel evaporate, or you may need to re oil the cylinders. It's not a bad idea to open the valve cover and squirt the valve train, cam, and lifters with oil or Marvel's Mystery oil. 2) Since you can't mechanically drive the oil pump, as John pointed out, get your oil pressure up w/o plugs and BEFORE any fuel is allowed in for reasons stated above. 3) Have a proper fire extinguisher ready to go. I've seen a few fires at GO-time. 4) since the oil pressure and temp are critical, it's not a bad idea to have redundant gages installed to make sure you're not relying on a defective oil or temp gage. I like to have my infrared temp gun handy once she's running and constantly monitor the head, manifolds,cylinder walls and radiator for any hot spots. You can also "watch" your thermostat open. Heat is your engine's worse enemy. I usually place a large shop fan (about 36") in front of the radiator to make sure things stay cool, maybe overkill. 5) Have a vacuum gage hooked up ahead of time so that you can time the engine. You don't want the timing to be very far off for fear of overheating or detonation. Just adjust the distributor for maximum vacuum at idle. It's a quick and dirty way to time the engine without messing with timing lights and marks. You can always fine tune it later. Plus your vacuum gage gives you excellent info about the condition of your motor. 6) There probably will be some debate over this point, but my friends in the racing business who are always breaking in new motors, like to run the new engine from 30-60 mins at a fast idle ~1500 rpm (one more gage-your tach). After this period , the engine is allowed to cool a little and the oil and filter, if there is one, is promptly changed and even an extra quart of fresh oil is thrown in with the drain open to flush any metal out of the oil pan. 7)After the oil change you can restart and fine tune at your normal idle speed. 8)Take it easy on the new motor for the first 300 miles and then change the oil again. Good luck and have fun! Joe
  16. Double-G --for 20 large you had better get some 22k gold thread woven into your carpet! In San Diego, for a 1929 DA Phaeton I recently paid about $3500 for the upholstery (F+R seat covers in Leather over my existing Springs/frames and 4 door panels with pockets , 2 rear panels and 2 front kick panels all in matching vinyl with top quality carpet F+R). Just got a quote for the top (Best quality canvas tan/tan) including pads and installation-no side curtains,no boot, I supply the rear window and frame...$1800 (said OK to this). We have yet to negotiate the boot and the curtains. I sometimes take advantage of the Ford Model A-T websites to get a ballpark low end figure. So without any labor, for example, the prices for a Ford touring (I used the higher priced materials when there was a choice): UPHOLSTERY KIT leather seat covers $1539.95 OPEN CAR TOP ROOF KIT $311.95 OPEN CAR DOOR & KICK PANEL SET $87.95 OPEN CAR SIDE CURTAIN SET $299.95 OPEN CAR TOP PAD SET $39.95 OPEN CAR TOP BOOT $232.95 Total: $2,512.70 You can probably add at least 50% to this figure for a materials start price since we're talking non-production one-off job. Then double that figure for labor. You're probably looking at $6000-7500 in SoCal. A lot less if using vinyl instead of leather/canvas. But, like everyone else these days, upholsterers are hurting for biz, so you might be in a good bargaining position. Let us know what you finally decide!
  17. Actually Jack, this 3-shoe setup was designed by Bendix and was used in a lot of cars in the late 20's-early 30's. See attachment. The parking brake operates basically thru the same 3 shoe setup on the front axle; when you pull the handle you mechanically expand the three brake shoes of each front wheel. This car's drums are a whopping 16" in diameter. They finally came to their senses by 1937 when the drum diameter dropped back to 12" like the Dodge DA.
  18. Although I haven't worked on the exact box pictured above, most worm driven boxes share many common features. Most have three adjustments and must be done in the correct order according to your manual (And not necessarily how I've listed them). 1)worm wheel shaft thrust (adjusts how much play in and out the pitman arm has). Some worm and sector boxes like the Gemmer used in the later DB's call this the sector shaft thrust adjustment. 2)worm adjusting nut as listed on your picture. Some boxes call this the steering shaft adjustment. This determines how much in and out play your steering shaft or ultimately your steering wheel has. and finally.. 3)the eccentric bushing- most boxes have some form of an eccentric bushing and this adjustment determines the critical mesh between the worm and worm wheel in your box, or the worm and the sector gear in the case of the Gemmer. This adjustment determines how much fore and aft play the pitman arm has. Ultimately this is determines how your steering wheel feels. Too tight and its hard to turn the wheel-too loose and your all over the road. If their ever was a goldilocks story, this is it. Needs to be just right. An excellent article was written about modifications to a steering box (this one's about the Ford Model Gemmer Box), while not specifically about your box, many of the principles can be adapted to help you understand the mechanics of your box. I stole a few of his ideas plus added several of my own ideas to improve the performance and STOP THE LEAKING when I recently did a rebuild of my 1929 DA Gemmer. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/steering.htm You can buy or rent a pitman arm puller to make the removal easier. The usual PB blaster soak still applies. Joe
  19. Hi Phillip- I think I can make these work, so we're on. Let me know when you are coming to town so I can clean the garage! John-that would have been fun to meet with you, as you were only 10 minutes away! Joe
  20. OCM- here is a scan from my favorite book on the subject simply entitled "Brakes" By Chilton published 1937 pg 44 Troubleshooting Lockheed Brakes. (sorry right hand side of pg clipped). In particular, note Section 3-A: Both of these items have been addressed by John (Keiser31) 1)Drum clearance- do you know how to adjust for the proper clearance? 2)Leaky valve seat in Master Cyl. REBUILD your master and be careful how the valve goes in (it's the salt shaker top looking thing). I can scan a picture of the proper assembly if you don't have one. 3)Also note Section 4-D which I posted earlier--REPLACE those blasted flexible hoses. Old hoses corrode, leak , swell and suck in air creating an invisible havoc for you. 4)lastly, just IMOHO: don't shortcut on your brakes, mistakes here can cost you your collector car or worse. Get someone like John, a brake expert to look over your work. Are you sure those shoes didn't get wet with brake fluid? I've yet to see a leaking cylinder that didn't soak the linings rendering them all but useless.
  21. If you can in fact, physically rotate the gear due to absolute symmetry, (i.e., no keyways, gears cut symmetrically, etc.) it should be no problem. However you will have to determine how much of your slop is due to the worm wheel VERSUS how much is from the other possible sources of slop for instance: 1) worn worm gear 2) worn upper and lower bearings/races/thrust bushings on the steering (worm gear) shaft 3) worm wheel shaft bushing wear 4) trueness of the steering shaft itself. Clearly, rotating the gear is only going to remove one of many potential sources of the slop. (That is, if it doesn't serve to make matters worse somehow). Have you looked at your manual and CAREFULLY gone thru the adjustment procedures step by step? They must be followed to the letter and ever so slight adjustments can make ALOT of difference. When the box is out of the car on the bench, you can really feel the subtleties.
  22. Philip, you may be right about the angle involved, but after playing around with your images, i.e., photoshop flipping, rotating, etc.,it seems that the main difference is the "stalk" that extends the saddle from the compression wedge fitting. Apparently, the earlier DB top bows fold down tighter to the the body than the 29, negating the need for the extended stalk. I'm going to lower the bows on the car and see how far they actually stick out from the body when down. If they stick out a ways, it's likely that I would be making some major mods to get them to work. If you would indulge me for another day, I'll give you the final answer. If not, I understand. Also, the last time I purchased from down-under I got hit with a big bill ($75US) from the bank for the money exchange- what's the deal with that? Any idea what PayPal charges? May would be ok to post when you come here-any chance you'll visit San Diego? Love to meet fellow DB'ers! Joe
  23. There's a long winding thread going on here lately started by outlaw car man re: 1932 Dodge Brothers brakes,drums,rear axles,etc. So, when I was out in the back 40 looking in the junk pile, this caught my eye: a 1929 Dodge DA rear-end sitting right next to a spare 1932 Packard rear-end...Just a little difference... DB's juice brakes vs. Packard's mechanicals...the Packard drum contains THREE shoes! Getting these drums off was some fun too. After 3 days of soaking with penetrant, then heat, we finally applied a heavy duty drum puller with a 1" impact fed with 2 air hoses. And still NOTHING...Frustrated, we took a lunch break, and about a 1/2 hr. later BANG! Like A gunshot the drum popped! Nearly soiled myself!
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