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Everything posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. Here's another Early DA/Late DA changeover: It appears that my two earlier DA's (DA59129 & DA65487) have a "shock-absorber" like spring arrangement to keep the vent door open or closed, while my later one(DA105947) has a double-wire hoop-a-joop to accomplish the same task. What does yours have?
  2. Jason Jon's website is http://www.thecarburetorshop.com
  3. Jim, Sam's has some rock bottom prices! No wonder only WalMart and McDonald's were the only Up stocks in this down economy! And Dick, that's a cool idea to create an access up front. I assume you mean a Winnebago-where do you find a junkyard for motorhomes?? Joe
  4. I just knew you guys would come thru with some great ideas and suggestions. Sounds like tire baskets with the proper mounting rings or e-track would be easiest for my Dad. Msmazcol- Is the e-track system difficult to install? Thanks John, Steve & Jim for the winch tips. The Summit catalog is where I first saw the various tiedowns and winches, which got this thought in motion. And Greg Smith does have some good prices, just never heard of their product line-Definitely will be checking them out. Marty, excellent suggestion on the strings-heck I use this in my garage, never thought about using it the trailer! I have to check the the running boards vs. the wheel wells on the larger cars-I'll probably need to use the elevated ramp idea. Also, FYI, I came upon this excellent "Trailers 101" article written by a frequent AACA contributor: http://www.monmouth.com/user_pages/friartuck/lincoln/trailer/trailer.html Also P.S. to Marty, check your PM re: your Desoto restorations. Thanks to all, Joe
  5. I am trying to set up my enclosed 24' Haulmark to make it easy on my Dad when he tows a car alone. The days of Dad crawling under a '37 Buick to attach an axle strap are over. The trailer currently has no winch and no driver's side escape door. It does have a side door located at the front bumper passenger side. So, what do you guys use to make the tie down easiest? Tire basket harnesses? Over the tire straps? E-track? Also, I think a winch would be easier and safer for one person to load a car and I would welcome any suggestions as to the best winch brand, winch mounting ideas, etc. Sure appreciate your opinions and advice, Joe
  6. Bob, the Frame Rail VIN is just behind the "dogbone" on the right side of the vehicle. It is also on the top of the frame rail at the same location, but that is only seen with the body off the frame. The toeboard VIN and the frame rail VIN should match. See photos. You'll probably have to get a wire brush and scrub off some dirt/paint. Then get your flashlight, often the stampings are not very deep.
  7. John- very nice car--but what's up with the dual exhaust??
  8. Thom, whatever your decision be it brass or ss, tubing or solid--you aren't going to go wrong. Obviously, there is more than one way to skin this cat--the fact that all of the businesses discussed here have been around for a long, long time speaks for that. I doubt they'd still be around if their chosen method didn't work. The important thing is that you have chosen to restore your collector car's brakes thoroughly and correctly. And I applaud that.
  9. OK point well taken- I'm just glad that I don't have to clean up the mess. But why do you need seamless- the welded 304 has burst strength of over 7000 psi. You don't have enough feet to create this kind of pressure in an old lockheed brake system. And when you compare those prices, the welded tubing is half the price of bar stock. But I do get your point, it makes sense not to have to stock so many diameters. So why does the rest of the world use tubing ?
  10. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: thom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I talked to the local shop that nearchoclatetown talked about, and my learning curve expanded. This shop starts with solid SS blanks, not tubes, and cuts the sleeve out from there. He believes SS tubing or pipe is the problem of failure when used for sleeving. </div></div> Thom, thanks for sharing here what you have found out, it takes a lot of time to do your homework and then report back to us! Regarding "solid SS blanks, not tubes, and cuts the sleeve out from there" ... have you ever turned SS on a lathe? This would take a relative eternity to take 1-3/8" solid SS stock and bore out 1 1/4" and then finally turning the OD to the finished size. Not to mention that you now have 2 pounds of expensive SS chips and turnings all over your lathe and shop floor you have to clean up. I don't buy it. Unless I actually saw this with my own two eyes, I truly doubt this is being done. Even if it is, I seriously doubt that the end result would come out better. By the time you hogged out all that SS to the final thin tender shell, chances are your lathe and tool vibrations/chatter would leave you wishing you had started out with a tube instead. My 2 cents.
  11. When you compare a Dodge to for instance a Ford of the same vintage, there is just so much more metal, it's no wonder the modern iron loses! Bob, thanks. I'll add your data points to my (small) collection. It looks like from the #'s you gave me,it is unlikely that your car has the original engine (no big deal in my book anyway). Either that or the VIN on the toeplate has been swapped. You'll need to check the VIN stamped into the right side of the frame rail if you care. The VIN DA56166 is in about the middle of production and the Engine # H130-995 is near the end. IMHO, there is always so much hoopla about #'s matching cars esp. muscle cars. When you can rent an original GM Engine ID# stamp for about $100, and restamp to whatever # you want,the matching # thing is BS. Buyer Beware! What type of rear bumper are you seeking?
  12. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob Zetnick</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> idrjoe-sandiego asked for the body number....there is a 'Budd' plate on the firewall that is unreadable to me....I was going to make a rubbing and then noticed a large number pressed in the upper firewall...I assume a body number....? Sorry, if I am incorrect in these things..a lot of this is new to me.</div></div> Bob, yes this is the body # I was speaking of. Any chance you have the engine # (found on the right rear machined surface where the manifold bolts on-you have to look beneath the manifold at the very rear of the engine- # is stamped in about 1/2" tall. # should start with H xxx-xxx) Also, looks like Jason may have your replacement bumper medallions. Thanks, Joe
  13. Thom, After leaving you that post, I emailed Joe at http://www.brakecylinder.com to ask his permission to link to his site (yea, I know, <span style="font-style: italic">after</span> the fact). And it's a good thing I did because Joe brought to my attention a few issues that need some clarification. Sorry for any further confusion I may have caused. And Jason, you're right-If you can find a good one, support your local businesses-Joe isn't exactly local, he's in Northern California, about 500 miles away-the transaction was done via phone and postal carrier. I'll quote Joe's email word for word: Hi, Joe. I looked at the posts, and would suggest you go back and clarify a couple of points. White Post sells complete sleeve & rebuild jobs, whereas you got sleeving only from me. We would charge $140 now to rebuild your master, and $90 each for the wheel cylinders. That's $500, less the package discount of 10% for a total of $450. But your 1929 wheel cylinders are straight-bore. Thom has a 1938, which has step-bore wheel cylinders. We, like White Post, charge more for stepped cylinders. Our prices for Thom's job would be $140 plus $120 each for the wheel cylinders. That's $620 less $62 package discount for a total of $558. So...less than WP, but quite a bit more than half. It would be interesting to know if Hagen is one of the companies using the Hal-Ray system. Karp's Power Brake is the US agent, and their website has some information about the system. http://www.resleeve.com/sleeving.htm Wray Halliday, the Australian owner of Hal-Ray, approached me years ago promoting his system, but I had no interest. I have serious problems with some of their methods and philosophies. For instance, they say "Stainless steel is able to be honed to provide a cross-hatch pattern which aides in lubrication." Spelling aside, while a cross-hatch pattern is appropriate for engines in which the pistons have metal rings, it is ABSOLUTELY NOT suitable for hydraulic cylinders. To the best of my knowledge, which is fairly extensive, NO manufacturer of any kind of hydraulic cylinder using rubber seals has EVER made them with cross-hatch honing. Rather, they take great pains to supply mirror finishes, using expensive machines and tools. Regarding home-shop honing of brake cylinders, while it is true that honing increases bore size, most people don't have enough patience to hone long enough (with regular spring-loaded brake hones--honing machines are different) to make a significant difference. Production rebuilders will often go as much as 0.012" oversize, and if they get all the pitting out such a cylinder will work well and long. The rubber is very forgiving--many wheel cylinder seals are 1/16" or more larger than their nominal diameter. Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate it. You are welcome to share any of these comments if you think others would be interested. Joe -- Heather & Joe Way Sierra Specialty Automotive Brake cylinders sleeved with brass Gus Wilson Stories http://www.brakecylinder.com
  14. Thom,before you jump on the White Post train, I would encourage you to look at another website first. I'm a big believer in stainless steel for lots of things, including cylinders, until I read the argument for brass inserts: http://www.brakecylinder.com/sleeve2.htm#stainless I had my 29 DA's done here for half of what you were quoted at White Post: http://www.brakecylinder.com/prices2009.htm They did a fantastic job and EXCELLENT customer service. I dealt with Joe there(maybe the owner?) and he was very helpful and knowledgeable about old Dodge cylinders.
  15. Bob, it looks like a pretty nice original car (at least from your photo). Perhaps you ,your camera and and your DA can all get together one day and take a few pics for us DA'ers out here. In particular, we were trying to get some detailed photos of the front and rear (split) bumper medallions and their backing plates. We are also trying to gather some data points on Engine #'s and head casting #'s and VIN's and body #'s for these cars. Your wind wings must have been added at some point, wouldn't mind seeing a close-up of those either. Re: the wiring harness... I have got a brand new one from RI Wiring..looks like a pretty decent copy of the original. I had them add an 8-wire turn signal setup and a second tail/parking light to the the harness. I also have the original harness which is in decent shape. If interested, I could post a picture of them. But it won't be until after I finish that blasted 1040! You also asked about the door panel attachments...sorry I don't follow your description. Pics?? Thanks, Joe
  16. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dana J</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I sent the carb to Classic Carbs in Arizona. They did a great job.</div></div> I agree. Do you have any contact info for them? Tried searching the web w/o success.
  17. If interested here's that eBay O/D auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/overdrive...bayphotohosting
  18. Good site Elmo! In fact thru that site I checked out an O/D unit that just sold on eBay. The seller shows pics of the nearly identical one I have (casting #1408517) and he says it was for a 1949-52 Plymouth, but knowing Chrysler products from this era, this unit likely fits a wide array of applications. The eBay unit went for almost $1000 and the solenoids didn't work and it needs rebuilding. Looks like the price just went up-thanks Elmo!
  19. Very Strange....this website/forum added some random picture of a blue sedan instead of my last overdrive pic!!! This is the second time this has happened. All I can hope for is that these random photos stay G-rated.
  20. Hi Bill Here's a few pics with some casting #'s. Perhaps our well informed associates on this forum may offer some more exact info re: interchanges. The black unit in the front is a non electric with a stamp of 1936, so this is one of the earliest Chrysler o/d's either for the 1936 models or the next generation used on the 37-38 Chrysler and DeSoto. The rear unit is semi-electric so I'm going to guess its for the 1939-40 models. And no, I don't know what that plate reads on the black one. It was dark, and I don't like spiders. Joe
  21. Bob see my answer to this same post you put on the Dodge Brothers forum. I took some pics of the two o/d units I have and need to do a bit of investigating for you as to what exact units these are based on the part #'s. One I can say for sure has a casting date of 1936. They both appear to be in great shape. Joe
  22. Nice looking motor. How did you get that stromberg U2 to look so good? Joe
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