20Premier

Jim, Sorry to hear about the theft. Will watch for them here on the west coast. Hope you are doing well otherwise. Chris

I see that there are various sizes and shapes available, how to choose which one?

Anyone know of a good source for babbit scrapers.

The odometer shows 21,373 miles. There is a lot of babbit material in the inserts. Do you know what type of tool to use to scrap the material with. And then do they need to be burnished or polished.

1920 Premier model 6D, engine by same manufacturer. Aluminum block with cast iron sleeves and aluminum pistons. 6 cylinder, 3-3/8" bore, 5-1/2" stroke. Pressurized oil, inserts bearings on both rods and mains. Overhead valves with roller tappets. I like the idea of using the blue dye. Keep the info coming, it is interesting to learn how everyone has done this before.

1920 Premier. See the car in Our Cars & Restorations, 20Premier We tried plastigauge, and at .002 the rod would not turn at all. We have been experimenting with a method of putting the rod and piston at 20 degrees from the top and seeing if it will drop to the bottom without swinging. ? Found this method in old books from the 20's.

Tried plastigauge, what was common clearance in the early 20's for rods and mains?

We are trying to fit the rod bearings to the crank. They are inserts with shims. Anyone have experience with this task. I have been reading some old books on the subject, just want to make sure we are doing it correctly.

Tell me more about the lost wax process, and how do you account for shrinkage.

Looking for a 1920 era Cuno combination dash trouble lamp. Anyone going to Chickasha or Bakersfield take a look for one or know someone who does. Lamp could be around 6" long and about 1 3/8" in diameter.

Working on instruments and electrical. Every wire labeled by application and numbered to the location on the Delco combination switch. Looks to me like it was all orange with black tracers, and the plug wires black. Getting ready to ship the instruments off for restoration. My ancestors put 21,373 miles on it before they reitred it. Then they took the tires off for the war effort, my dad remembers that part.

How should the type of paint be chosen for a high end 1920 vintage car, or the is color the most important consideration? How about care and maintenance of the finish?

We are getting all the pieces ready for assembly of the engine. Using a few parts from the Connecticut parts car, mostly rod bolts and shims. The new Arias pistons look great, they have already been fitted in the sleeves. Built a stand for the crank and will fit each rod bearing before installation in the engine. Making new gaskets and cutting felt seals. Still looking for a spring for my clutch:confused: It is a Borg & Beck there is a picture of it earlier in this section. Took a pile of parts to the Nickel plating shop this week too, I get a little nervous with parts scattered all over the place !

Yes I have. Good pictures and video that he did. It is really nice that he likes to share his hobby, like the rest of us do. I have really enjoyed sharing my project, and it has helped me find parts that I have needed. Chris

The wood is looking good. A little glue, new screws and some new wood and we will have a body again. We need to do some welding on the aluminum skin, but for being 91 years old it is not to bad! I am also working on the thermostat housing, it was made by Fulton Co. of TN (still in business today). Jim at Fulton is going to help with the new bellows.

We removed the aluminum skin from the body today! We are very pleased with the condition of the wood. We believe the wood body was made by either Columbia or Fleetwood.

I would like to know what oils today are the same or similar to the following Gargoyle Mobiloil: A, L, and Acrtic. And also No. 31, 32 and 41 Gredag. Thank you

Working on the engine today. Getting ready to mount the water pump, but need to fix a chip in the aluminum casting on the block. It is behind the gasket of the pump, would JB weld work on the aluminum? It will not be visible. I also need some hose clamps like this one, for 1-1/4" ID hose so about 1-5/8" or 1-3/4" OD. Have not found any in the catalogs I have.

It worked! I think she was surprised. She said "Who's here?, Oh it's Old Blue!" Back to work on the Premier engine after Christmas. The picture on the left is of our harvest fleet. '69 Chev, '53 GMC service truck, '75 Chev fire fighter, '97 K3500 Crew people hauler.

The battery box is almost finished. The Connecticut car provided the needed pattern, ours was missing. Cutting gaskets for the engine and transmission. We also started the newly rebuilt engine in my wife's 1969 Chev pickup, it will be a surprise for Christmas. :eek:

Our trip to Connecticut proved to be very good. When I saw the remains of the car in the brush I thought we had wasted a trip. But, we just opened up the engine and it came apart surprisingly well. We got a lot of very good usable parts. It was amazing how bad the car looked compared to how the engine was on the inside. Two of the cylinders were full of water when we took the head off. The other 4 pistons came right out, and it didn't take too much effort to get the other two. The pistons and rods have to come out the bottom side because the rod bearing is larger than the bore! Really glad we went to Connecticut.

Does anyone know where the 1923 Premier went that was sold at the December 6, 2009 Flash Gordon Collection Auction, held by Kruse Intl.? I am restoring a 1920 Premier and would like to get pictures or see the car to help in my project. You can email me at chris@wheatacresranch.com Thank you.

I thought that a larger picture of the car would be a good idea. I hope it is not too big. Click on the image, it does get bigger.

Thanks for the post Cliff. The doors are coming along! We are trying to save as much original wood as possible. The body wood is ash made by Fleetwood or possibly Columbia. Brought back engine parts from the body and paint shop today. The valve cover, push rod cover and head look great.

Here are two of my purchases at Hershey.