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Everything posted by 20Premier

  1. Thanks for the help, I am sure I will have more later. Is there anything like the Model A Ford judging standards book for a Buick? What about upholstery suppliers? Thanks again Chris
  2. We are making progress, it seems slow, but we are moving along. Found a steering wheel at the Bakersfield Pre war meet this last spring. The hub fit another car, but the wood is a perfect match for our Premier hub. Nice to have an original wood wheel. We have also been working on new lug nuts, and a new part for one of the wheels. The body is also getting very close. Still seems like a lot to do. Starter, generator .........
  3. Any chrome on a 1928 Buick model 47? If so what should be chrome and or nickel?
  4. That switch looks very similar to the Delco Combination switch #1155 in my 1920 Premier. I have been wondering what to do with that coil also. How common were glass fuses in the teens and twenties?
  5. I need a spark plug cover for a 1928 Buick Master Six.
  6. I am looking for a spark plug cover for a 1928 Master Six ! Does anyone have one for sale? I will post in Buy Sell
  7. What do you know about this model? Are they common, or rare. What about value?
  8. I got it! I finally saved the car. It is a 1928 Buick model 47 Series 120 Master Six. I will post some pics soon. Only missing the passenger door handle:confused: I couldn't be have any better luck. Check out my other car in Our cars and Restorations 20Premier
  9. What is the difference between a 1928 Buick Master Six 47 and a 47-S?
  10. Not much happening with the project lately. Wheat harvest gets in the way of a lot of fun. A picture of the engine after all the internal components have been installed, and the current state of the body.
  11. John, Where are you having the data plates made? I need to have some made and restore another. Chris
  12. My Connecticut Premier parts arrived yesterday. My friends started their trip by driving to Astoria, OR in their '51 Buick and out onto the beach. They then turned around and hauled the car to MA for the Buick meet, then onto Maine to complete their coast to coast trip. Thank you to them for bringing my parts back. We are getting closer on the body. A few more adjustments and the skin will fit over the wood again, then the doors. Lots of work left to do!
  13. A friend of mine and his son took their 1951 Buick Special, which they restored together, to the Buick National Meet near Boston this last weekend. Lucky for me they agreed to swing through Connecticut and pickup the rest of the pieces of the CT Premier. Jim also again helped out in making all this possible, thank you again. I thought that it might not ever all get here. Thanks for all the help. The second picture is what the car looked like over 30 years ago when I first found out about the car. It was not in very good shape then, and even worse now, but well worth all the effort. Wish I would have purchased the car then, better late than never though? There are some great people that I have met and talked to in this hobby that have helped me with this project.
  14. Thanks for the post Jonathan. Good to hear from friends that I have met at Hershey. We are making progress on the engine, between farming and kids activities. Finally got the rod bearings where we wanted them. Learned a lot about scraping, blueing and a little plastigauge to see how close we were! The donor chassis from CT came in handy again, donating main bearing shims. We now have the pistons, rods, and crank in. Also put the roller tappets and camshaft in and the head.
  15. We are making progress! Did not remember how many little pieces needed to be plated. Getting ready for final alignment of the doors. Here are two of the hub caps awaiting nickel plating and their freshly restored emblems with new glass enamel and nickel. The other picture shows the under seat area, on the left and right are tool boxes, they will have metal lids. The middle section is where the magnetic gear shifter goes.
  16. I have 1920 gauges to be restored. They will need the faces restored along with total mechanical restoration. What should I expect to pay for a show quality job. A Stewart speedometer Delco combination switch Ammeter Oil pressure gauge A waltham clock
  17. We have been busy with both the wood body and more metal work. The body is coming along very well, hope to have it ready for the aluminum skin soon. Began polishing with my new buffer, never had one before! Kind of fun and a lot of work getting the pieces ready. Started buffing on the packing nut for the water pump and then moved up to the intake manifold.
  18. Ordered a scraper and some Time-Saver #100 from Lang's T parts. I did see that there are also more aggressive grits available, but not from Lang's. We will try it first on our spare crank and rod set up.
  19. Thank you. Have been thinking about seeing if someone on the forum might be making the trip from CT to the west coast and would bring them. I will post more soon. I have been busy with my real work, farming! Chris
  20. Jim, Sorry to hear about the theft. Will watch for them here on the west coast. Hope you are doing well otherwise. Chris
  21. I see that there are various sizes and shapes available, how to choose which one?
  22. Anyone know of a good source for babbit scrapers.
  23. The odometer shows 21,373 miles. There is a lot of babbit material in the inserts. Do you know what type of tool to use to scrap the material with. And then do they need to be burnished or polished.
  24. 1920 Premier model 6D, engine by same manufacturer. Aluminum block with cast iron sleeves and aluminum pistons. 6 cylinder, 3-3/8" bore, 5-1/2" stroke. Pressurized oil, inserts bearings on both rods and mains. Overhead valves with roller tappets. I like the idea of using the blue dye. Keep the info coming, it is interesting to learn how everyone has done this before.
  25. 1920 Premier. See the car in Our Cars & Restorations, 20Premier We tried plastigauge, and at .002 the rod would not turn at all. We have been experimenting with a method of putting the rod and piston at 20 degrees from the top and seeing if it will drop to the bottom without swinging. ? Found this method in old books from the 20's.
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