JanZverina

As far as I can tell just the tri-shield emblem, which I see in the shop manual is separate.

Thanks, Chuck - much appreciated! I've printed them and will make sure the shop follows this guidance. Here are a couple more pix of my new purchase. Giving the paint some TLC with a light wet sanding and compound/polish. Yes, that's a later-model Riviera hood ornament that the previous owner installed many years ago, unfortunately drilling through the tri-shield emblem. I see that the hood splitter/spear is one long piece except for the tail on the cowl. Is it still available somewhere or has it entered the Unobtainium Catalog?

I did a little bit of searching on this question in both the shop manuals and on this forum, but I'm still unclear as to where are the best points to lift a '63 Riviera - I need some prop shaft/U work done and want to make sure the shop does it right. Does anyone have a diagram or a clear description of how the car should be lifted using today's typical service lifts? Thanks!

Hi Tim - Welcome to the forum. I too recently bought a '63 Riviera after wanting one forever, a mostly original Teal Mist w/white leather that I'm first going though with a deep cleaning just so I know what I have. Other than a repaint in the 1980s that is nicely coming back to life with some 2000 grit paper and Autoglym compounds and polishes, it's complete and has a good history file from the original owner and his family. I also have a 1960 Electra sedan and a 1967 (Series 1) Jag E-Type coupe. Being a BCA member for more than five years, I can tell you that the BCA forum is an invaluable resource when it comes to solving problems big and small, and there is a good group of owners and tech advisors here at the ROA who know theses cars inside and out. I fully agree with 60FlatTop's response - first thing I did was buy the shop manuals (available on eBay and elsewhere). I'll add that I also bought a laminated, color-coded wiring diagram from www.ClassicCarWiring.com on Rivnik's advice - thanks, Rivnik! I joined the ROA right away because clubs like this need to be supported. The folks here will save you a lot of time, $$, and frustration, and you'll get a great education as well! Again, welcome!

Thanks for the tip, Rivnik. I just ordered one and I'm sure I'll stare at it like a chimp too until the light bulb goes on, so to speak!

Thanks for the clues, Jim (I love ROA!) Just to be clear since I'm not very familiar with printed circuits, when you say "investigate the clock" do you simply mean take out the bulb and/or disconnect the entire clock and then see if the fuses doesn't blow? I'll try and get the IP schematic but can you tell me which wire on the ignition switch I'd disconnect or am I looking for a wire there that could be pinched/grounded like following the wires from the headlight switch? Thanks!

Hi Ed and Jim Cannon, I know this is an old thread but my instrument panel cluster lights on my recently acquired '63 don't work either, except for the Amp and parking brake lights, light, turn signals, and high beam. I removed the headlight switch and it looks to be new; the rheostat is not perfect (not corroded) and I even tried what I see you recommend often and cycled the dimmer-twist function many times to see if this helped. I then pulled the 3A fuse and saw that it was blown. I replaced it and the new fuse blew right away so I must have a short. Two initial questions before I start my detective work: 1. The driver's side door jamb switch does not appear to be working. I ordered one from Clark's Corvair. Could that have anything to do with the IP lights? I read your threads on the three circuits that the door jamb switches control, but would a short or ground affect the IP cluster circuit? 2. Should I try and establish a new a ground from the printed circuit? If so, from where to be exact? Off of one of the small hex screws along the dash light circuit? I don't want to makes things worse. Thanks/ Jan Zverina BCA #39915 1960 Electra 4719 1963 Riviera

Thanks, Jim. On the first question, I've seen them both ways lately but painted did not make much sense to me. And thanks for the response on Q2!

Thanks, Jim. I'll see how it goes. Did you see my other note on trying a temporary bypass by plumbing in a vacuum switch from a later model, such as a '67?

Question 1: Did the '63 Rivs come out of the factory with painted (body color) door latches on the body side of the door jambs? Question 2: I'm going to use a vacuum pump as suggested by Jim Cannon to see if the check valve between the brake booster and engine manifold works properly, but if not, it looks like check valves for the 1963 setup are hard to find. Could I also temporarily plumb in a check valve from a later model (let's say a '67) to see if that makes a difference? My issue is losing boost at speeds above ~50 mph -- the pedal gets hard and boost is significantly reduced/almost non-existent. At lower speeds the boost seems to work fine. Thanks/ Jan Zverina San Diego BCA #39915

Thanks, Jim. I'll try that test but I don't have a vacuum pump. Can you give me an idea of the kind I should use?

Sure is. It was driven 1,000+ miles down from Washington state, and we drove it from the LA suburbs (that means heavy traffic) to San Diego with no problems.

Jim, can you be more precise on how to diagnose the vacuum check valve for proper operation? The '63 booster appears different from the later models in that it has two larger- diameter hoses coming from a pipe at the top of the booster, one hose going to the auxiliary vacuum tank and the other attached to a metal line that threads into a fitting on the manifold forward of the carb. Please tell me what I should be looking for. I know that later boosters have a plastic check valve that's pretty plain to see. I don't see anything similar on this one, which like the master cylinder is a recent replacement before I bought the car. As I said, there's boost at lower speeds but the pedal gets hard at high speeds and one only feels the boost just before the car rolls to a stop with the pedal applied. I read that pinching off those larger hoses with a vise grip (I really don't want to do that) is one way to see if the engine idle changes. Engine rpms also go up when I step on the brake pedal at idle, which may mean a leak, right? I'll of course check for any other vacuum leaks and cracked hoses, but I'm curious on how to check the vacuum check valve for proper operation. BTW a pix of my engine is at the top of the recent thread called "follow-up to my VIN code inquiry" if you want to look at the brake booster in my car. Thanks!

Mine must be among the two-thirds that did not have factory-installed belts. I'll check as soon as I can for the plugs and predrilled holes since I plan to add at least front belts. As for the 27F battery, I picked one up today and I assume Ed means that the terminals should be on the leading edge of the battery (closer to the front of car), with the + post closest to the radiator, correct?

It's a Sorensen 'Magnition' electronic ignition module. The car came with a small brochure for it that says 'Keep the Manual in Your Glove Box'.

First pix of the Riv that I purchased this weekend. A true survivor but a #s matching, never-been messed with car that spent almost all it's life w/one owner couple and then the daughter in Wash. state. Bought from someone who brought it down to SoCal and was looking to flip it, but was kind enough to sell it to someone who would not chop/rod it (very popular out here in SoCal, and some are very well done.) Yes, I know the engine compartment shows years of grime, cheap hoses and cut radiator trans lines, but the car is super solid - it still has the original beige trunk mat and spare tire cover, although they were shedding foam while I checked the trunk floor, which is solid all around. I paid just over $8K vs. an $11K asking price. Hopefully you can see the pix - my first time uploading them.

I'll figure out how to send pix soon (have never done so) but I think I decoded the body tag. Let me know if I missed something: 02B - 2nd week of Feb? STYLE 63 4147 (63 Riv) TRIM 748 J2 (Teal Mist w/White leather w/ driver's 4-way power seat - but switch is on lower outboard side of seat, not door panel - ??) ACC: D (Sonomatic radio w/manual antenna) I7 (tinted windshield) S (remote OSRVM) Z4 (auto trunk release) Car has all these options, colors, etc. Engine stamp matches VIN #. engine is silver with a red crinkle air cleaner saying 'Wildcat 445'. That's a 401, right? I know silver was a one-year color. Solid car (trunk, underbody, quarters, front frame, magnet sticks strong on all body panels upper and lower.) Two drivability issues - any thoughts welcome: 1. A big shudder on reverse, and if one backs up at more than a crawl, there's a loud metallic clinking that sounds like a U-joint or misaligned spline? No noises and perfectly smooth shifts in D and L. 2. New master cylinder and vacuum booster but I feel the boost and lower speeds (0-30 mph) but it loses assist at faster speeds (feels like manual brakes) until just before car comes to a stop. I checked all vacuum hoses/connections to the engine and auxiliary tank on LF inner fender, and all look good. Also, engine rpm rises maybe 100 rpm or slightly more when I steps on the brake pedal, and then I have to blip the throttle to get the engine to return to normal idle. Much appreciated. I kind of know my way around old cars (I have rebuilt a Jag XKE) but you guys are the Riv experts here! Many thanks!

Thanks, Ed. I'll let you know how things turn out once I view the car in person and can take some of my own (more detailed) pictures. The one question I do have, however, is if the control for the driver's power seat was always on the door, or if it was ever on the lower outboard seat side. Was there a difference between 4- and 6-way power seats?

Can anyone shed light on a '63 Riv with a VIN of 7J1060148? I'm looking at this car as a potential purchase. Looks to be an early build judging from the spare tire location. I don't have info on the body tag as yet. Thanks!

Thanks - I think I'm all set. Responses much appreciated.

Yes. Thanks! Anyone know what other model years would fit? Is it only '59 and '60, or can I use a cap from a later model pump?

Anyone out there have or know where I can get a power steering reservoir cap for my 1960 Electra? If not, can anyone tell me if another year will fit? Much appreciated! Jan Zverina San Diego CA

Looking for pass side front and rear wheel trim, as well as the pass side rocker trim for an Electra 4-door sedan (model 4719)

Thanks, 41specialman - I will take some pics this week and post them.

Thank you both for responding. Does anyone know if a '63 pump fits a '60 401 setup or what the part #s are? Thanks!